Something of a gloat

[lowell holmes]

I was flipping the pages in a book, "HOW TO WORK WITH TOOLS and WOOD", published by Stanley Tools in 1942.

I ran across a section showing drill holes with brace. Having a box full of 13 Irwin Bits and a Bell System's brace, I was interested.

I went on line and for some reason ended up on Jim Bode's site. I immediately stumbled across a listing for a Stanley Bit Gage.

I got carried away and I now have a Stanley Bit Gage coming.

I am delighted. I have made wooden blocks and other "Rube Goldberg" devices to set hole depths.

I can'r wait to get it. :p

[Frederick Skelly]

Sounds interesting! Please post some pics when it arrives, Lowell !

[Jim Koepke]

Lowell,

Maybe some one will see your post asking to move this to Neander World.

If that is the #49 bit gauge with wing nuts holding it in place, be sure to check it often as mine occasionally slips when used if not good and tight.

jtk

[Glen Canaday]

I usually just pull it out and check it ;)
In all seriousness, I have all kinds of gizmos and gadgets for my half million braces, but no bit depth stop. Masking tape just doesn't do it for me.
Perhaps one day I will either buy one of come up with a contraption that works. In the meantime, cool buy :)

[Derek Cohen]

This is the #49 depth stop ..

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Drills/vintage-stanley-49-ajustable-bit-depth-gauge-hand-brace-drill-bit-stop-a7b4ac8b12e47ebd0160b45f66c3d8ec_zpsy5arnv81.jpg

A word of warning when using one: they work very well, sometimes too well. Be careful that you slow down the boring as you near the end. Do not expect that the bit will stop cutting (as a plough plane might) just because it has bottomed out. It will instead score the work face. I have contemplated glueing felt or leather or plastic to the underside of the depth stop.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Frederick Skelly]

Thanks Derek!

[lowell holmes]

This is the #49 depth stop ..


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Drills/vintage-stanley-49-ajustable-bit-depth-gauge-hand-brace-drill-bit-stop-a7b4ac8b12e47ebd0160b45f66c3d8ec_zpsy5arnv81.jpg

A word of warning when using one: they work very well, sometimes too well. Be careful that you slow down the boring as you near the end. Do not expect that the bit will stop cutting (as a plough plane might) just because it has bottomed out. It will instead score the work face. I have contemplated glueing felt or leather or plastic to the underside of the depth stop.

Regards from Perth

Derek

I think I will apply leather to mine when I get it I have some thin leather that I think will do nicely.

[lowell holmes]

My stop came, I tried it, I don't think I will need the leather. You just have to stop drilling when it touches. I may change my mind though.:)

[Stewie Simpson]

The last time I used a traditional brace and bit would be over 25yrs ago.

[Jim Koepke]

My stop came, I tried it, I don't think I will need the leather. You just have to stop drilling when it touches. I may change my mind though.:)

I just watch the shavings coming out. When the stop starts to spread them, it is time to slow down.

jtk

[lowell holmes]

The last time I used a traditional brace and bit would be over 25yrs ago.

Then you have forgotten how enjoyable it is .

I do enjoy putting one of my dad's Irwin bits into my Bell Systems Brace and making holes. Of course, I only use it occasionally when starting a mortise using the Maynard Method.

[lowell holmes]

I know, but I enjoy seeing the shavings come off the bit.:)

[Mike Holbrook]

Try a Wood Owl Ultra Smooth bit in your brace and you may wonder why you need the electric drill. Sure the electric may be a little faster but it is easier to drive straight holes and avoid tear out with the brace, in my experience. The Wood Owl bits barely heat up, even in an electric drill:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dFyPcl12Oik