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Sean Troy
10-26-2016, 5:08 PM
With the help of fellow Creekers, I found the banding I wanted and ordered it. I plan to do the banding on a table top for a friend. The table will be rectangular and I would like to come in from the edges and route the channel for the banding making a rectangle shape smaller than the table. Any tips or videos that might help me set this up so channels meet up correctly? I routed for inlay on straight pieces before and then mitered corners for frames but this is a bit different. thanks, Sean

Mark W Pugh
10-26-2016, 9:54 PM
Take a look at Micro Fence. I'm really looking hard at their products.

Sean Troy
10-26-2016, 10:22 PM
Take a look at Micro Fence. I'm really looking hard at their products.
I have an edge guide that I'll use for this application but the Micro Fence setup is much nicer than mine.

Jeff Monson
10-27-2016, 5:11 PM
I've just used an edge guide and clamps for this application. Some careful measuring and a little chisel work in the corners and you will be done in no time. I'm assuming something like this?

346488

Sean Troy
10-27-2016, 10:40 PM
I've just used an edge guide and clamps for this application. Some careful measuring and a little chisel work in the corners and you will be done in no time. I'm assuming something like this?

346488
That's what I was referring to.What were the clamps used for?

Kevin Jenness
10-28-2016, 8:05 AM
When routing close to the edge an edge guide works well, when the groove is farther in as in the picture a straight edge clamped to the workpiece or a template and guide collar work better. If you are not using a closed template it is a good idea to clamp stop blocks at the ends of the cuts to avoid overshooting the corners. Be sure to rout in the direction that pulls the router to the guide. My friend calls this "white knuckle work", but if well planned it is straightforward.

Sean Troy
10-28-2016, 8:36 AM
When routing close to the edge an edge guide works well, when the groove is farther in as in the picture a straight edge clamped to the workpiece or a template and guide collar work better. If you are not using a closed template it is a good idea to clamp stop blocks at the ends of the cuts to avoid overshooting the corners. Be sure to rout in the direction that pulls the router to the guide. My friend calls this "white knuckle work", but if well planned it is straightforward.
I see what you are saying. I'll decide what method when I'm sure how far in from the edge I will be going. With such a shallow route, is it still best to plunge cut?

Jeff Monson
10-28-2016, 11:21 AM
That's what I was referring to.What were the clamps used for?

To hold my edge guide firmly in place. I did use a plunge router, that is the only way IMO. Yes I'll agree its "white knuckle work" as its the last step in a nice top. I did a few test runs on scrap first. And yes make sure to know the direction of your cutter or you will wander quickly.

Sean Troy
10-28-2016, 11:35 AM
Am I correct in assuming a left to right cut around the table is correct? Would that be considered down hill? Thanks, Sean