Safety aspects of big router

[Tom Andersen]

Hi guys,

A few days ago, I asked for advice on how to disassemble a router with a failing switch. I received many good comments, including a suggestion to heat it and it worked, so I have now repaired it.

It's a 3 1/2 hp router (I believe) for 1/2" bits. I wanted to repair it because my other router is only 8 mm and I am planning on buying some large bits for profiling using a router table. The router is old and does not have soft start (which should be ok for table mounting) so when I switched on power, it gave such a jerk that it slipped out of my hand and fell to ground. Nothing seriously happened, it must be a good router! Anyway, it made me think over safety aspects for a 3 1/2 hp router. This is really nothing like working with a 1/4" small cylindrical bit in a baby router. It's much more scary. How do you people prevent fingers from getting eaten and what do you do to prevent kick-back?

Thanks for advices-

Tom

[Ken Garlock]

Hello Tom. With a 3 Hp router mounted in a table, you have half of the problem handled, IMO. Kick back should not be a problem except when doing a "climb cut."

The main thing is to always know where the bit is and where your fingers are. I lost site of that back on August 29, and the bit took a nice bite out of the side of my hand. The scab just sloughed off this weekend.

My second recommendation is to keep a tight grip on your work piece. You want the wood to go where you want it to go, not where the bit will take it.

Lastly, think about what you are about to do prior to turning on the router.

My opinions are worth what you paid. :)

[Jim Becker]

Tom, one other thought...since you often use the "big router" to spin larger cutters in the table, you'll want it to have variable speed so you can slow it down appropriately. "Full speed ahead" is only good for cutters up to about an inch to an inch and a quarter in diameter. Above that, you need to slow the machine down to avoid safety issues.

[pat warner]

Working on a new Router Book (CD-R) to take the place of the Owner's manual.

Part of that is router table safety. Email (pat@patwarner.com) for freebie of text of that chapter (in Word).

Routers (http://www.patwarner.com)

[Michael Perata]

How do you people prevent fingers from getting eaten and what do you do to prevent kick-back?

Not wanting to sound facetious, but keep your fingers away from the cutter and always remember the stock can get replaced; your fingers can't.

Always use a push stick and stand up wind of the cutter. Two weekends ago I had a 10# piece of stock going flying across my shop when my way too big cutter caught the wood. The piece dented the wall but only scared me because I was behind the stock and using a push block so my hands/fingers couldn't get caught up in the "accident".

[Steve Rowe]

Tom - I have a 20 year old Hitachi TR-12 that is a 3-1/4 HP without softstart. During use, I noted the same thing you experienced. As soon as the switch goes on, it trys to jerk out of your hands. As a result, I have sentenced this router to a life of hard work in the router table. Much safer this way.
Steve

[Corey Hallagan]

Funny the "soft start" issue. I have a brand new Dewalt DW 618 and a new DW625 . The 618 is a 2 1/4 router with soft start. When you turn it on the ramp up to the set speed is very gentle and smooth. The DW625 is a 3 HP router that is used in my router table and has soft start. This router while it runs very smoothly the soft start is night and day difference. It jumps to life with a quick torque jerk and ramps up to the set speed and then runs very smoothly. This is exactly the way Wood magazine described this router on start up as well. Only thing I can think of is that they changed the electronics in the router a bit as Pat Warner says it has good soft start, but not on mine nor Wood magazines sample. Still they gave it the thumbs up for hand work, thumbs down for table work :(, but I like it.
For safety, I have made a couple push blocks similar to a jointers push block. If you use it for hand work Consider getting a offset or large round base from Pat Warner to make it more stable!
Corey

[Steve Clardy]

I have four of the older pc 7537 d-handle routers. Two are table mounted. The other two are for general work. These are only 2 1/2 hp, but with a big bit for a table edge or whatever, you had better have all your cookies in one pile before you hit the switch. They will twist out of your hands.

[Hank Knight]

Tom, if you put the big router in a router table, I recommend you screw the plate to the table. I've had my 3 1/2 hp Bosch try to climb out of the table when I took too big a bite. The thought of that monster skittering around the shop floor still gives me the willies.