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jeffrey bailey
10-23-2016, 3:24 PM
Most of my woodworking is making boxes. It's easy, I enjoy it and there is so many different things you can do with them. My question is, what would be the best way to round the corners on a box. I know the end grain will be a factor. Just looking for input.

Doug Hepler
10-23-2016, 4:16 PM
Jeffrey

When you say "round the corners" what do you envision? Easing the sharp edges, a radius equal to the wall thickness? How big are the boxes and how thick are the walls?

Doug

Jason Lester
10-23-2016, 4:19 PM
I've used a roundover bit in a router before. I've also used a block plane roughly to give an aged look.

Jim Finn
10-23-2016, 4:47 PM
I make hundreds of cedar boxes every year. They are 6"x8"x2" using 3/8" stock. I round over the edges with a stationary belt sander. Easy peezy.

Vince Shriver
10-23-2016, 6:08 PM
...or do you mean a rounded corner, like a quarter of a 2" radius circle joining two perpendicular sides?

John Lankers
10-23-2016, 6:54 PM
You could try the router table but it can be risky (tearout), try it on scraps first.
An edge sander would be my tool of choice followed by hand sanding, I sometimes use an abrasive pad on my 1/4 sheet sander using a light hand for the final touch.

Larry Frank
10-23-2016, 8:11 PM
I have used a router bit and with a Freud Quadra-cut have no tear out.

Earl McLain
10-23-2016, 8:44 PM
I make a reference mark on the top of the corners with a penny or nickel then use my disk sander to rough it in. Finish by hand.

earl

jeffrey bailey
10-24-2016, 12:38 PM
The box I'm working on has box joints. The front and back is curly maple and the sides are purpleheart. Both are half inch thick. I would like to round the edges to the same thickness. I'm a little concerned about what the end grain will look like.

Doug Hepler
10-24-2016, 3:58 PM
Jeffrey

I would try a roundover bit in a router, probably on a router table instead of handheld. Tearout could be a major issue, but you can prevent that if you clamp waste blocks at each end (actually, just the trailing end). Use blocks that are thick enough to be stiff (probably 3/4" maple will be fine), line them up with the corners, and clamp them as close to the ends as you can, still leaving enough clearance that the bit cannot strike the clamp. The idea is that the pressure of the waste blocks will hold the edges in place to be cut cleanly instead of being pushed away from the cutter.

You can do the same operation with a hollow plane, if you have one, but it has to be very sharp to cut endgrain cleanly.

You really should practice this with scrap before you try it on your box.

I have relieved the corners of many box joints with a hollow plane, or even a straight plane, followed by hand sanding, but never to the extent you have in mind.

Doug

lowell holmes
10-24-2016, 7:23 PM
I would cut a board, round the ends and experiment until I found what I was looking for. Good wood and a sharp hand plane might be an option.

Stan Calow
10-24-2016, 7:59 PM
I've done this with roundover bits on box-jointed jewelry boxes, in maple and in cherry. The end grain does show up with a bit of contrast, but so do non-rounded box joints.

lowell holmes
10-25-2016, 10:34 AM
Jeffrey

I would try a roundover bit in a router, probably on a router table instead of handheld. Tearout could be a major issue, but you can prevent that if you clamp waste blocks at each end (actually, just the trailing end). Use blocks that are thick enough to be stiff (probably 3/4" maple will be fine), line them up with the corners, and clamp them as close to the ends as you can, still leaving enough clearance that the bit cannot strike the clamp. The idea is that the pressure of the waste blocks will hold the edges in place to be cut cleanly instead of being pushed away from the cutter.

You can do the same operation with a hollow plane, if you have one, but it has to be very sharp to cut endgrain cleanly.

You really should practice this with scrap before you try it on your box.

I have relieved the corners of many box joints with a hollow plane, or even a straight plane, followed by hand sanding, but never to the extent you have in mind.

Doug

You might try moistening the end grain prior to rounding over to provide a smoother cut with the roundover bit.

jeffrey bailey
10-25-2016, 1:16 PM
Thanks for all the advice. I think I have decided to leave this one alone and try it on another one in the future.