Another White Finish Thread

[Mark W Pugh]

I'm constructing cabinets for my wash room. I want to paint the white.

I've heard/read about pigmented lacquers/polys. I see that GF White Poly is about $92 a gal.

I'm using an Earlex 5500, so I'm not to sure what I can and can not spray.

Any comments on any products, and does it need a primer put down first?

Just really new at spraying these products, and paint.

Thanks

[Andy Giddings]

Mark, I believe the GF Milk Paint and Enduro White Poly are the same product (check with GF but that was the response they gave me). If you go to the GF website, you'll see them using an Earlex to paint a table using Milk Paint. Just need to use the right size nozzle https://generalfinishes.com/videos/how-to-spray-milk-paint#.V_4e1Y-cEUE . You might also want to consider using a water based clear top coat if the cabinets are going to see some wear. You can use GF High Performance but you will need to let the paint cure for about three weeks before application

[John TenEyck]

GF's Enduro White Poly has a viscosity of about 100 seconds #4 Ford cup. You need a large N/N to spray it with a gravity feed gun, but it sprays great if you have a pressure feed gun. It's a very nice product but, as you pointed out, it's expensive. A lower cost option is to just spray BIN pigmented shellac primer and then topcoat it with the clear coat of your choice. BIN pigmented shellac primer has a very low viscosity and sprays great. It looks great too, especially after you put a clear coat over it.

John

[Rob Young]

GF's Enduro White Poly has a viscosity of about 100 seconds #4 Ford cup. You need a large N/N to spray it with a gravity feed gun, but it sprays great if you have a pressure feed gun. It's a very nice product but, as you pointed out, it's expensive. A lower cost option is to just spray BIN pigmented shellac primer and then topcoat it with the clear coat of your choice. BIN pigmented shellac primer has a very low viscosity and sprays great. It looks great too, especially after you put a clear coat over it.

John

+1 on the Zinser BIN as your base white coat followed by a topcoat of your choice. BIN is relatively inexpensive at $45/gal, available just about anywhere, is a fantastic primer and can be tinted if you want something other than paper-white (it is very bright out of the can).

Sprays like a dream, even in weather that was a little on the hot and humid side.

If you are careful, I believe you can self-tint this stuff using Transtint.

[Mark W Pugh]

+1 on the Zinser BIN as your base white coat followed by a topcoat of your choice.

Sprays like a dream, even in weather that was a little on the hot and humid side.



So, like a dream, with or without thinning? I'm new at spraying paint/ish products.

[John TenEyck]

What type gun and N/N sets do you have? BIN pigmented shellac primer has a viscosity of about 35 seconds #4 Ford cup. With a gravity feed HVLP gun you would use a N/N set of about 1.5 mm, without thinning.

John

[Mark W Pugh]

What type gun and N/N sets do you have? BIN pigmented shellac primer has a viscosity of about 35 seconds #4 Ford cup. With a gravity feed HVLP gun you would use a N/N set of about 1.5 mm, without thinning.

John

I'm using an Earlex 5500. I do have 2.0 and 1.5 sets.

[Rob Young]

So, like a dream, with or without thinning? I'm new at spraying paint/ish products.

Right from the can.

4-stage, pressurized cup-under gun, 1.3mm or 1.5mm N/N (I have both and right now I don't have the can in front of me -- write the settings on the can after you determine then)

[Prashun Patel]

Thanks for the tip, John. I've used BIN many times under paint, but hadn't considered it this way.

[Mike Monroe]

You may want to consider a dedicated airless paint sprayer. I recently purchased a TrueCoat® Pro II Electric Handheld Airless Paint Sprayer. I have a number of paint projects on the to do list. I practiced with the unit on a 25+ year old Adirondack chair, one of my first WW projects (plan from Norm). I can attest to this machines efficiency for putting out a lot of paint in a short amount of time. Using the 515 tip I had the chair primed in about five minutes. Putting on the topcoat the next day took about the same time. Clean-up takes longer than painting, but it's not difficult. I just finished painting a bed headboard made out of poplar using SW Wood and Wall Primer (love this stuff) and SW water based latex acrylic. I used the 311 tip for the head board and it came out beautiful. Again it took 5-10 minutes to complete the priming/painting and 15-20 minutes of cleanup. Previously, I had used the same products with a 850 watt single stage HVLP sprayer for painting a nightstand and I wasn't thrilled with the results. With the HVLP I had to thin the primer and paint. The HVLP just doesn’t lay down the primer or paint like the airless unit does. The HVLP had less overspray, not that the airless unit has a huge amount of overspray, it’s just that the airless puts out so much more paint and when you spray past the end of whatever you’re painting a lot of paint can get shot into the air. I imagine the more I use the airless sprayer the better my technique will get. Also, I’ll only use the airless to spray water-based finishes unless I have a huge solvent based paint project as the clean-up would take a lot of solvent and be a lot more messier.

[John TenEyck]

I'm using an Earlex 5500. I do have 2.0 and 1.5 sets.


The Earlex has a pressurized cup, right? If so, I'd go with the 1. 5 N/N. 1.1 or 1.3 mm might be better, depending upon cup pressure, but try what you already have.

John