Infinity Tools / Colliflower Sawstop Aluminum ZCI - Cutting 45 Degree Kerf Slot

[Ben Rivel]

So I have one of the Infinity Tools / Jack Colliflower Sawstop Aluminum ZCIs (LINK (http://www.infinitytools.com/saw-blades-accessories/table-saw/table-saw-zero-clearance-inserts/sawstop-zero-clearance-throat-plate-with-two-inserts) or LINK (http://www.colliflower-zci.com/all-products/sawstop)) and so far it has been awesome. However this weekend I went to cut a white insert for a 45 degree cut only to find out that the ZCI doesnt fit all the way in the slot in the table even with the blade lowered all the way down when in the 45 degree angle. You can see what I mean here:

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So I was not able to make the clearance cut. A suggestion was made to make the initial cut with a smaller blade but since I only own 10" blades that isnt really an option. I do however own an 8" dado stack and thought: well what about using one of the end blades from the dado stack to make the initial cut. I guess I would have to have the dado brake installed to do such a thing, but I wondered if using a single dado stack end blade by itself would be any cause for concern regarding safety. I did consider the option of buying an 8" blade just for initially cutting any angle into these white inserts in the future, but an 8" Forrest WW2 is another $100+ and for a blade I'd only use a few times I just didnt want to go that route.

I have been working with the manufacturer (Jack Colliflower) on this issue and as always he has been extremely responsive, but I wanted to present this question to the 'creek and see what you guys thought.

[Darin German]

Could you cut a shallow dado in the bottom of the white insert, just enough to get the clearance you need? It looks like you don't need much.

[Ben Rivel]

Could you cut a shallow dado in the bottom of the white insert, just enough to get the clearance you need? It looks like you don't need much.
Huh, Im not sure. You might be correct that doing so might provide enough clearance to get the ZCI to fully seat. If I cant use one of the edge blades of the dado stack by itself that might be a viable option.

[Thomas L. Miller]

Ben,
I cut the first 45 degree cut using a regular blade and then switched to a dado set up. I use a Freud 608 dado set 9 (the adjustable one). The lesson I learned is when using the infinity throat plate with a bevel cut dado is be very, very careful when you raise the dado set at the full 45 degrees. I was raising the blade with the blade running and there was metal contact somewhere. The blade was < 1" high. Needless to say it was catastrophic for the dado and the brake. Good luck!
Regards,
Tom

[Ben Rivel]

Ben,
I cut the first 45 degree cut using a regular blade and then switched to a dado set up. I use a Freud 608 dado set 9 (the adjustable one). The lesson I learned is when using the infinity throat plate with a bevel cut dado is be very, very careful when you raise the dado set at the full 45 degrees. I was raising the blade with the blade running and there was metal contact somewhere. The blade was < 1" high. Needless to say it was catastrophic for the dado and the brake. Good luck!
Regards,
Tom
Tom,

There is the problem I am having. I CANT cut a 45 degree cut in a blank white insert with a normal 10" blade.

Also the issue you describe cutting angled cuts with a dado stack and the stack hitting the insert has been fixed and Colliflower is giving out replacement ZCIs that fix the issue. Contact them! I am being sent one as soon as they are available.

[Ben Rivel]

Okay, UPDATE:

Just called Sawstop and asked what they thought about using one side of a dado stack to make the initial cut along with using the dado brake and they said yea that should will work fine. In fact they also said that they recommend that as a solution to people all the time when they have fired their normal brake, dont have another normal brake and blade but have a dado stack and dado brake. Then they can get their cuts done with the 8" end blades and dado brake until the new 10" blade and normal brake replacements come. So there is my answer I guess.

[Thomas L. Miller]

Thanks Ben,
I'll contact Infinity. In the meantime, I'm not going to cut any dado's on a bevel higher than 1/4". I'll use a router table instead. That's what I should have done in the first place. Cut the pice at a bevel, then use the router to cut the groove. I just wasn't thinking. I finished the project doing this and it was a lot more simple. Thanks for the info!
Regards,
Tom

[Ben Rivel]

Thanks Ben,
I'll contact Infinity. In the meantime, I'm not going to cut any dado's on a bevel higher than 1/4". I'll use a router table instead. That's what I should have done in the first place. Cut the pice at a bevel, then use the router to cut the groove. I just wasn't thinking. I finished the project doing this and it was a lot more simple. Thanks for the info!
Regards,
Tom
Contact Jack Colliflower directly. Infinity Tools doesnt have the latest design as Colliflower hasnt shipped any out yet. Its brand new.

[Matt Day]

Can't you use an 8" blade and disengage the brake? I don't have a SS btw.

Or cut the dado on a router table?

[Ben Rivel]

Can't you use an 8" blade and disengage the brake? I don't have a SS btw.

Or cut the dado on a router table?
I believe that even with the flesh detection mode turned off you still need to have the proper sized brake installed as the saw is capable of sensing the distance from the break to the blade to a certain distance.

[Ted Prinz]

I'm brand new here and am a bit reluctant to jump in but ran into this kind of thing with my old saw and thought I might add a slightly different twist (just got a SawStop 😀). When I made inserts I'd make a "relief groove" in the bottom of the new insert with a 1/4" router bit in the router table. I'd cut the groove to about 1/8" shy of the surface. That worked pretty good and the router table fence allowed me to get the groove where I wanted it. Hope this helps.

[Ben Rivel]

I'm brand new here and am a bit reluctant to jump in but ran into this kind of thing with my old saw and thought I might add a slightly different twist (just got a SawStop 😀). When I made inserts I'd make a "relief groove" in the bottom of the new insert with a 1/4" router bit in the router table. I'd cut the groove to about 1/8" shy of the surface. That worked pretty good and the router table fence allowed me to get the groove where I wanted it. Hope this helps.
There are relief cuts in the bottom of the white insert parts, but they only offer relief for a blade in the 90 degree position. However your solution could work, but sounds like it would be more work than just using a smaller 8" blade from the dado stack.

[John Ziebron]

I would figure out where the relief needs to be cut in the insert for the blade at a 90 degree angle and then making that relief cut with a small core box bit in a router. You could even use a hand held router with an edge guide if you don't have a router table. When I make full size MDF inserts for my Grizzly T.S. that is how I make the relief cut.

[Ben Rivel]

I would figure out where the relief needs to be cut in the insert for the blade at a 90 degree angle and then making that relief cut with a small core box bit in a router. You could even use a hand held router with an edge guide if you don't have a router table. When I make full size MDF inserts for my Grizzly T.S. that is how I make the relief cut.
Another good idea, but as I mentioned above I have already confirmed with SawStop that just using one side blade of an 8" dado stack to make the initial 45 degree cut will work perfectly. Thank you for the suggestion though. Always more than one way to skin a cat.

[Kevin Womer]

I have one of the fist models that came out, works great. I just use the insert that came with my SS for cuts other than 90degrees. Just a thought.

[Ben Rivel]

I have one of the fist models that came out, works great. I just use the insert that came with my SS for cuts other than 90degrees. Just a thought.
You have the first version that had the curved lock down bar like the factory SawStop ones do? The version I have required the rear adjustment screws to be raised to much the SawStop plate doesnt fit anymore. Since I dont want to have to readjust those screws each time I go back and forth using the stock one isnt an option for me. The only ZCI I use is the Colliflower one.

[Kevin Womer]

You have the first version that had the curved lock down bar like the factory SawStop ones do? The version I have required the rear adjustment screws to be raised to much the SawStop plate doesnt fit anymore. Since I dont want to have to readjust those screws each time I go back and forth using the stock one isnt an option for me. The only ZCI I use is the Colliflower one.Yes that is the one I have. I wonder why they made that change? The origional one works well, maybe different maker? Sorry wish I could help.

[Ben Rivel]

Yes that is the one I have. I wonder why they made that change? The origional one works well, maybe different maker? Sorry wish I could help.
Same manufacturer. I read somewhere they had an issue with SawStop saying they couldnt employ the locking mechanism due to legal reasons so they changed it and went to a slide in, non-locking style.