Jointer Pulley Alignment

[Mike Chalmers]

I have a CX08SC 8" jointer from Busy Bee (same as Grizzly G0490X). I am looking for some tips on aligning the pulleys and keeping them in place.
My main issue with alignment is that the clearance where the belt goes through the top of the stand is too small to get a real straight edge through to check to determine if they are co-planar. I can only fit something like a ruler or yard stick on its flat through, and that is not very accurate.
My second problem is that, no matter how hard I come onto the nuts and bolts holding the motor to the motor mount, the motor does not stay in place. I have to stop and readjust every couple of weeks. Looking for tips on how to prevent this movement.

[glenn bradley]

String stretched taught between the axles will give you a pretty good line of sight to eyeball it within required tolerances. If the motor is moving when the bolts are torqued, the bolts are not torquing down correctly (or you have some rally slippery steel :)). I suspect the hardware. My first attempt would be to add another flat washer between the nut, lock washer, current washer and the frame to assure you are torquing down on frame adequately.

[Jebediah Eckert]

It was a bit tricky if I remember correctly. For alignment I took a board with one straight edge, the factory edge of plywood would work as well. With a handsaw or bandsaw I cut out a big enough section of it so it can go around the obstruction. Basically you end up with a straight section on both ends with the middle hogged out.

As as for the motor I took a couple of squeeze clamps and reversed them, so instead of clamping they became spreaders. It's tough to get that belt tight enough without the pressure. Even with two people it is tough to get it tight enough. I can't exactly remember what to clamp the motor against but there is something in there to use. Once you set up the clamp putting pressure on the motor and belt I kind of just tapped it around with a block of wood and rubber mallet until I got the pulleys co-planer and then tightened it down.

If you search around on here there are some good tips doing it as well as pictures. I remember one being to use blue (I think) thread lock and that's a must.

[Jebediah Eckert]

Not sure I know how to do this but here is one of the threads. In the OP you will see the clamp being used.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?127179-G0490-Jointer-Arrival-and-Setup

[Mike Chalmers]

thanks very much for these tips. I may also try link belt. I believe the link belt is not as fussy about alignment.

[Bill Space]

I took the same approach as Jebediah. Worked perfectly:

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[Jebediah Eckert]

I took the same approach as Jebediah. Worked perfectly:

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HaHa Bill, I think I probably got the idea from you. That picture looks awfully familiar!

[Mike Chalmers]

HaHa Bill, I think I probably got the idea from you. That picture looks awfully familiar!Made one of these tools. Worked great. Belt/pulley noise much reduced. Moved jointer back to its location (moved due to access restrictions before working on it). Released the pivot wheel and lowered machine (with usual drop and thump). Alignment was obviously lost.

Glenn. You advised adding a flat washer to overcome slippage, but where? Your explanation seems to tell me to add 3, but, I do not think it is what you mean. Plus, mine does not use lock washers. It has nuts with a serrated collar.

[Don Jarvie]

Replace the nuts and bolts holding the motor to the mount. Using regular nuts with lock washers should do the trick.

[Jebediah Eckert]

If you "ride the pedal" down in won't slam down. Even so that shouldn't matter. If the motor is going to slip it would have during use anyhow. Better to find out now. I used the factory hardware with the serrated collar and have not had a problem. I don't think changing them out is a problem.

I also found with that jointer you get a loud "belt slap" when you shut it off and the motor ramps down. The noise is better when the belt is properly tension but I couldn't get rid of it, don't think you can. It is caused by the motor and the way it ramps down, but I forget exactly why.

[Mike Chalmers]

My noise occurs mainly during start up. As well, there is quite a bit of black belt dust where the belt leaves the upper pulley. I believe this is caused by misalignment.

Can't see "ride the pedal down" being applicable. To lower the machine, the pedal is lifted up. You can help it by lifting up on the bed, but i do not like that idea. Seems it could be hard on the alignment of the bed.

Thanks for the thoughts.

[Keith Westfall]

Use a "fiber insert" lock nut on them. Much better than lock washers or other nuts.

[Jebediah Eckert]

I thought it went drop and thump when you lowered it? I was talking about riding the pedal down so it didn't crash down so hard when lowering it. Just start to raise the pedal a touch and you can control it down just fine by keeping your foot on the pedal, at least I can. Still that shouldn't move the motor no matter how you do it, but whatever works for you.

[Patrick Curry]

I have the Grizzly version and had a similar problem.

Check for movement on your pulley. Mine had lost a key and so the pulley was sliding out of position on the arbor. This in turn was causing the motor to be pulled out of place. You story sounds so similar I'd bet this is your situation.

Once I got the replacement key I remember fooling around trying to check the alignment with the upper pulley but can't recall how I got them both back in alignment. Is there enough room for you to get a string tacked (tape, gum, ??) on the bottom of the upper pulley or maybe on the arbor right behind the upper pulley? Was thinking you could then tie on a small weight for a plumb bob.

[Mike Chalmers]

I thought it went drop and thump when you lowered it? I was talking about riding the pedal down so it didn't crash down so hard when lowering it. Just start to raise the pedal a touch and you can control it down just fine by keeping your foot on the pedal, at least I can. Still that shouldn't move the motor no matter how you do it, but whatever works for you.Sure would like to see a demo of your method. The only way I see to lower it is by planting one foot firmly on the ground and the other lifts up the pedal. 8nce the resistance to move is overcome, it drops fast. How to control the drop with your foot on top of the pedal eludes. A 3rd foot would help enormously. Maybe evolution will solve the problem.

[Jebediah Eckert]

I just went to the shop to do it so maybe I could better explain it. It's a looong ride from Canada to watch and I'm not sure how to do a video so here it goes......Put your foot on it like the gas pedal to a car and slowly push down with the front of your foot. You should be able to ride it down slow and gentle. At least that is how it works with mine. If none of that makes sense to your jointer then maybe the Busy Bee pedal is different?

[Myk Rian]

Do not over tighten the belts. All that will do is ruin bearings. There should be some slack.
The weight of the motor is usually enough.

[Mike Chalmers]

I just went to the shop to do it so maybe I could better explain it. It's a looong ride from Canada to watch and I'm not sure how to do a video so here it goes......Put your foot on it like the gas pedal to a car and slowly push down with the front of your foot. You should be able to ride it down slow and gentle. At least that is how it works with mine. If none of that makes sense to your jointer then maybe the Busy Bee pedal is different?Must, in fact, be.

[Mike Chalmers]

Installed link belt today. Used the alignment jig as soon as the old belt was off. Pulleys actually seem to be co-planar after all. Although there is a rather loud sound as the motor starts up don't really know how to describe it), overall it is running significantly quieter. Only remaining issue is that the belt guard really doesn't fit. I just left it off. My jointer backs on the table saw, so there is very little chance of anything coming into contact with the belt when it is running.

[glenn bradley]

Glenn. You advised adding a flat washer to overcome slippage, but where? Your explanation seems to tell me to add 3, but, I do not think it is what you mean. Plus, mine does not use lock washers. It has nuts with a serrated collar.

Given the nature of the bearing surface I used flat washers on both sides of the holes and lock washers on the nut side. The motor has never moved and the link belt has required no adjustment.


Installed link belt today. Used the alignment jig as soon as the old belt was off. Pulleys actually seem to be co-planar after all. Although there is a rather loud sound as the motor starts up don't really know how to describe it), overall it is running significantly quieter. Only remaining issue is that the belt guard really doesn't fit. I just left it off. My jointer backs on the table saw, so there is very little chance of anything coming into contact with the belt when it is running.

The belt slap sound at start up is common on these machines. The guard is there in case something unintended happens. Removing the guard makes what would be an "accident" become a case of "misuse". A couple of spacers, an extra nut or a stack of washers will do the trick :). You would think they could just make the guard a bit larger :rolleyes:.

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Something else I ran into on my earlier version of the machine; when I move the fence to a position forward enough for the carriage to straddle the top pulley, the link belt would rub. You can see a bit of leading edge wear on the outside surface of the belt in the pic above. I worked with Grizzly on it and just removed a very small amount of the casting in that area. I used an angle grinder but, now that I know how little must be removed, if I did it again I would just use a rat tail file.

[Jebediah Eckert]

From what I remember........my g0490x was noisy at startup when I first set it up. When I tightened the belt by holding the motor in position with a clamp when I tightened the bolts that cured it. The belt was just too loose, I think the book calls for 1/4" deflection (double check that). I still get belt slap on shut down but I guess that's normal. I can balance a nickel on the bed and start it. It stays on edge and only falls when I shut it down and get that belt slap.