Shelf molding on 1/2 plywood

[Bill Conerly]

I'm planning some shop drawers with casing of 1/2 plywood, and I thought I'd put some shelf molding (also called screen molding) over the plywood edges. The molding that I find readily available is 1/4 by 3/4. But 3/4 plywood seems overkill for my project. Any ideas? Should I look harder for 1/4 x 1/2 molding, make my own, or use iron-on edge banding?

thanks

[John Lankers]

I agree, 1/2" drawer sides are plenty strong and look better IMO.
I personally would apply shop sawn edge banding, especially the iron on veneer will probably not last very long. Best way to clamp them up is 2 boards with the edge banding face to face between pipe clamps. You can cut the drawer parts to length before or after glue up depending on material at hand.

[glenn bradley]

Are we talking about the exposed edges of the drawer box as in the "tops" of the sides? I tend to ignore these in the shop.

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At any rate, I would rip your own edge banding and glue it on where desired. there are numerous methods. I routinely make the banding a bit wider than the plywood and flush trim it with a router or block plane. Obviously this is easier prior to assembly.

The method in this video at about 1:20 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CMw5_AUGw74) shows a good method if our sheet material is pretty flat. If your material is a bit irregular,t aking the tool to the material can work better. I made a router base similar to the one in this video at about :40 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xVWKU_rhd_k).

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[Jim Becker]

Make your own edge treatments. While it takes time, it can often be less expensive and you can match the actual thickness of your sheet goods which at this point in time is very unlikely to actually be 1/2". ;)

[Eric Schmid]

Glenn, what is the joint used at the corner of the plywood drawer?

[Yonak Hawkins]

I agree with Jim. It's not difficult and it really doesn't take that much time.

[glenn bradley]

Glenn, what is the joint used at the corner of the plywood drawer?


Drawer-lock joint often called a lock-rabbet and probably has other names. I use it on solid drawer boxes as well, sometimes with contrasting woods as a decorative element.

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These are made with a purpose specific router bit but, can be made at the tablesaw (http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-plans/jointing-and-planing/lock-rabbet-drawer-joints)as well. Another how-to. (https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=5&ved=0ahUKEwjhlZ3ExMvPAhVDHD4KHU-7C5wQFgg4MAQ&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.woodsmithshop.com%2Fmedia%2Fp df%2F509%2Flocking-rabbet-joints.pdf&usg=AFQjCNEk5QPFcTdHtAotAvkWIglcFHO2cA&sig2=I4Kxby-0LBymPXUIwz1E5Q&cad=rja)

[Bill Conerly]

Are we talking about the exposed edges of the drawer box as in the "tops" of the sides? I tend to ignore these in the shop.

Yes. I'm a beginner, and I thought I'd try to make the shop cabinet look pretty as a learning experience before I work on real stuff for inside the house.

[Bill Conerly]

You've convinced me to make my own. I appreciate your help.