Veneer info

[Robert Engel]

I know I could search this but I need a quick response from experienced people.

I am going to do my first veneer project which will involve drawer fronts ranging in width from 5" to 9" X 26" long. The veneer I am going to buy is like this (https://www.certainlywood.com/images-locator.php?item=F%20CHERRY%201302-1).

I do not have a veneer press or vacuum capability. I was planning to go with cold veneer glue & use a thick flat board with a towel or something for cushioning with clamps. Or I could clamp two drawer faces together with tape coated piece of wood between them - bad idea?

What do you think or tell me how you would do it. Should I bite the bullet and go hot hide glue?

[Jim Becker]

Using layers to distribute clamping pressure is a good way to accomplish this task. It's really not all that different than how you would do it with a vacuum bag system if you think about it. There's no harm if clamping multiple drawer fronts simultaneously if they are the same size and you can glue, stack and clamp fast enough to accommodate the glue characteristics. And yea...you want a non-stick surface on anything between the glued veneer surfaces.

BTW, MFD is an excellent material to make your to-size cauls...it's flat-flat-flat, and inexpensive.

[Bill Adamsen]

Assuming since you indicate the drawer fronts are different heights, that you're not looking to "match" the grain over a run. With that assumption, I would think you might be able to "face to face" clamp the drawer fronts. You might test for glue "bleed through" first since it could cause mayhem with that approach. Wax paper makes a great barrier. Not sure how you are edging but another solution is "one run" that you cut post glue cure. As Jim mentioned, MDF would make a great clamp facing piece.

[Robert Engel]

Thanks. I will probably go the MDF router on the first drawer just to see how it goes.
I will be doing cock beading.

[Chris Padilla]

What is the substrate you are veneering to, Robert?

For your cauls, MDF sounds good. You'll need lots of clamps or you may wish to create a small torsion box and clamp from that.

Something like these.

345172

The design can match the reach of your clamps. The idea is to distance the clamp from the veneer in order to spread out the clamping force and make it more uniform. Also turning the MDF or plywood on its edge like that will stiffen it up so there are no 'pop ups' in the middle where clamping on the edge can cause a rise in the middle.

If you've never heard of Bow Clamps...looks them up. You'll get the idea. You kinda want some bow in the caul if possible or at least you want it stiff.

[Steve Jenkins]

Be sure to get a thin and even glue spread.
I like to use an adhesive roller.
They are washable and can be re-used. Freezer wrap or butcher paper works great between pieces

[Robert Engel]

What is the substrate you are veneering to, Robert?

For your cauls, MDF sounds good. You'll need lots of clamps or you may wish to create a small torsion box and clamp from that.

Something like these.

345172

The design can match the reach of your clamps. The idea is to distance the clamp from the veneer in order to spread out the clamping force and make it more uniform. Also turning the MDF or plywood on its edge like that will stiffen it up so there are no 'pop ups' in the middle where clamping on the edge can cause a rise in the middle.

If you've never heard of Bow Clamps...looks them up. You'll get the idea. You kinda want some bow in the caul if possible or at least you want it stiff.Substratw is solid cherry. The widest front is 9". The lengths are 26". I only have 4 deep throat clamps so I'll definitely look into your suggestion. Thanks.

[John Blazy]

I have veneered with Gorilla or similar low viscosity PUR glue and rolled it with a solid rubber brayer type roller like Steve just said with great success. I have even veneered with PL Premium polyurethane construction adhesive using same roller and same success. If you have enough clamps, you may not need the caul-on-edge idea, even though its a good idea for wider apps.

If the veneer is really porous, and you plan to fill the grain (pores), then epoxy is a wonderful glue. It glues and fills pores all at the same time. Did that on the porous mahogany of my boat. Used mylar film as the release liner, and it peeled off perfectly leaving only minor scuffing needed for the marine urethane topcoat. Did it on the hull and the foredecks.

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[Mel Fulks]

I'd use Weldwood UF glue ,two drawer faces together with a piece of plastic between,a few spring clamps. If the glue is mixed properly and aplied to veneer and drawer you don't need much pressure. That glue pulls down well.

[Chris Padilla]

I have veneered with Gorilla (glue)....

Assuming John means the polyurethane Gorilla glue, that also works very well to FIX badly adhered veneer. If you find some bubbles here and there, all you need to do is apply some GG, wax paper, flat block of wood and clamp. You don't need to pop the bubble or slice it or anything...the GG will soak through and stick it back down. The GG also will not interfere with any finishes you apply. Works pretty awesome.