table saw cover

[fred woltersdorf]

i was away last week and had the son in law look after the house,the toilet overflowed and yes it leaked into the basement.as luck would have it the exit point for the water was the top of my pm66 ts.he didn't have the smarts to check downstairs so the water sat there for 4 days,one giant rust bucket.i cleaned the rust off but the stains will always be there.i was pretty po'd but what the heck.so now i'm thinking about a waterproof cover for the saw.would a vinyl table cloth trap condensation?how about the machine covers made by htc for example,are they waterproof?thanks
http://www.allprotools.com/store/page297.html

[bill walton]

See if you can find someone to sew you a cover from Sunbrella. It's an acrylic canvas we use a lot for boat covers, awnings, biminis, etc. It's very water resistant but breathable and is almost indestructible, even in full sun. Whenever I need a cover for something, I sew one from that material. Occassionally, the seams are straight but they get the job done. It comes in many colors and up to 60 " wide. I'd think about 4 to 5 yards of the 60 " fabric would make a nice cover depending on the size of your extension and if you want to cover the outfeed. It can be sewn on a standard sewing machine if your mom or wife has one.

[Don Frambach]

I like the HTC covers. They are highly water resistant but also breathable. They have small magnets sewn in to hold well on machinery.

[David LaRue]

Fred,

I had my niece's new husband put a bucket of water on top of my Jointer that had the HTC cover on it. It made quite a rusty mess on the table. :mad: :mad:

Fortunately, with a lil elbow greaase, some WD40 and a paste of talcuum power and a chaulk board eraser, the rust and the stain can completely out. Granted I treat the top of my tools with T-9 and rub in the talc, so typically most rust spots come right out.

You might try the same method on your PM66. I have and it has worked on mine.

David

[John Cavanaugh]

David,

What is this thing about using Talc?? Ive never heard of that before, could you describe it a little more?

--
John Cavanaugh

[Norman Hitt]

David,

What is this thing about using Talc?? Ive never heard of that before, could you describe it a little more?

--
John Cavanaugh

Talc is what is recomended in my PM 66 manual to be rubbed in to protect the top and make it slick. If you try this method, be sure to read the label to make sure the powder you get actually is made from Talc, as many/most powders today use something different, and there is NO Talc at all in the mixture.

[David LaRue]

Yup, Just like Norman said. Sounds goofy but it works! :o :rolleyes:

[Jim Wiskus]

i was away last week and had the son in law look after the house,the toilet overflowed and yes it leaked into the basement.as luck would have it the exit point for the water was the top of my pm66 ts.he didn't have the smarts to check downstairs so the water sat there for 4 days,one giant rust bucket.i cleaned the rust off but the stains will always be there.i was pretty po'd but what the heck.so now i'm thinking about a waterproof cover for the saw.would a vinyl table cloth trap condensation?how about the machine covers made by htc for example,are they waterproof?thanks
http://www.allprotools.com/store/page297.html


Hi Fred, This is my first post. I know this is a fairly old post, but I hate rust. Were you able to get the rust stain out? You might want to look at this YouTube. It's a tad long but well worth it. Happy New Years! Jim, (Council Bluffs IA)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zh5YpK8aO4g

[glenn bradley]

To Jim's video link; I have gotten out some pretty gnarly stains and shadows with Rust Free. As stated in the video, follow the directions, the stuff is caustic but, can work wonders. Some stains are so deep they will never come out but, the Rust Free leaves a kind of homogeneous surface that makes them less noticeable.

[Charles Lent]

I've used a paste made from Bar Keepers Friend and WD-40. A Scotch Brite pad and elbow grease or a ROS to work it in. Let it sit for about 20 minutes and wipe it off, using more WD-40 without the Bar Keepers Friend for the final cleaning. Let it dry for a day or so and then apply Johnsons Paste Wax. Several applications of the wax over the next few days should bring it back to about the best you will get from anything.

Charley

[Ben Rivel]

Back to covers, I have been looking to make covers for all my tools to keep dust and junk off when not in use for longer periods of time (yea that happens sadly). Ill look into the Sunbrella material if its still out there, but has anyone tried anything else? What about the covers Rockler carries if one wanted a pre-sewn one? (LINK (http://www.rockler.com/zerust-no-rust-table-saw-cover?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content=pla_with_promotion&utm_campaign=PL&sid=V9146&gclid=Cj0KEQiAno60BRDt89rAh7qt-4wBEiQASes2tV2_dTdjDWdL7rh2d_jX_BXKsPgP3hAMhNNS9OX dhdMaAjY18P8HAQ))

[John Schweikert]

I make tool covers from Tyvek. Excellent material. Water resistant for sure. We had an outdoor couch cover that kept the cushions dry year round which I sewed to fit from Tyvek. I used clear E6000 to seal the seams on white Tyvek. I bought the frabric from Amazon, somewhere in the $2-4 range per yard, 60" wide. I have a full height bandsaw cover, chop saw cover too. I haven't done a new one for my Sawstop, previous cover was for my Bosch table.

[Hoang N Nguyen]

No personal experience with these but I was considering picking one up for my TS.

http://www.rockler.com/zerust-no-rust-table-saw-cover

[Robert Engel]

I used to keep my TS covered.

Never found it particularly useful. Will not prevent rusting in fact may make it worse.

I might have my wife make one, but wouldn't waste my money buying one.

[Guy Belleman]

I find that a tool table cover must lay close the top surface, minimizing the air pocket containing moisture. I found that after cleaning and waxing the top, laying a thin painter's plastic sheet on top and smoothing out all air pockets provides a waterproof surface and is very cheap. The plastic sheets last me a couple of years. If I expect a long period of tool non-use, I also add a coating of SlipIt before laying down the plastic.

[Charles Lent]

Read the label on the Slip-it. It used to contain silicone. Not sure if it still does.

I've banned silicone from my shop, because when it gets on wood projects it's near impossible to get it off, and anywhere that it is, the project finish will refuse to stick. You will have fish eyes everywhere there that even the tiniest drops of silicone are present. If you use an aerosol containing silicone in your shop, everything will be contaminated with it. It's great stuff, but not in my woodshop or my finishing area.

Charley