Humidor hinge installation

[scott boyd]

I am making a humidor for a close friend. He purchased "smart hinges" from a box maker in the UK. While they appear to be very nice hinges, and easier to install than a quadrant hinge, the maker in the UK urges cutting the mortise for the hinge with a 5/16" downcut spiral router bit fitted in a router table. While the bit type is fine, he also suggests climb cutting using shallow passes for the two mortises that won't allow right-to-left cutting on the router table. My past experiences with climb cutting on narrow edges, let alone climb cutting to any distance, have not been good. Any suggestions on technique?

[Andrew Hughes]

I use chisels to set my hinges. I have in the past I have used my router it just makes me nervous to offer up all my hard work to the router and its spinning bit.

Welcome to the creek.
Whats does the box look like?

Aj

[scott boyd]

Not at a state to be seen, but it is made of a heavily striped flame maple, spanish cedar interior, with bloodwood accents, (miter key inserts and a plinth of bloodwood on the interior of the bottom of the box to raise it @3/4 inches). I intend to french polish the exterior (or teach my friend how to and sit back and watch him do it).

[Andrew Hughes]

Sounds like a nice box.
Is there any parts to setting hinges with a chisel and small hammer that has given you grief.Maybe me or someone else can suggest something for you to try.
Why stop now with the hand works that probably went into making your piece.

Aj

[Jebediah Eckert]

344987

I just finished up a box using those exact same hinges. They are from Andrew Crawford in the U.K. I had the same hesitation, I went with his setup instructions and video. There was plenty of scrap of the same thickness I used to practice. I found the the trick was just getting bit to fall exactly in the center so the lid lines up perfect. Once your centered you have to set up a stop block twice to get both sides. The climb cut went bad my first try. I wasn't ready for it I guess. The regular direction went fine. When engaging the climb cut go real slow, be very aware of the moment that the spinning bit engages the piece, and hold it plenty secure. Once I did that it was no issue. I practiced a few more times and they all went fine. While I was in "climb cut" 'mode I did those two first on the actual box, then setup the stops in the other direction and finished it. It went together perfect and everything lined up great. Still much easier then those quadrant hinges.

Although Andrew is right on, if I thought I could do it by hand, I would. There is a sense of relief after the routing is done that you didn't destroy your project. I just wasn't sure how to go about doing the rounded front of the hinge by hand. It would be nice if they offered these hinges with a square front for that.

[scott boyd]

Agreed, a square end would be helpful. I have thought of using a 5/6 (or 8mm) drill to do the round end of the hinge on the "climb-cut" sides. Have you or Mr. Hughes used that technique? If so, how did it go?

[Mike Henderson]

I just wasn't sure how to go about doing the rounded front of the hinge by hand. It would be nice if they offered these hinges with a square front for that.
Use a Forstner bit with the same curvature as the front of the hinge. If you measure the width of the hinge, that's the size Forstner bit you need.

Mike

[Jebediah Eckert]

Scott, I have not tried that method. After practicing a few times I won't hesitate to do the climb cut in the future. I have a few more pairs to use at some point.

[Jebediah Eckert]

Use a Forstner bit with the same curvature as the front of the hinge. If you measure the width of the hinge, that's the size Forstner bit you need.

Mike

That makes sense, it certainly will be less stressful by hand........and much less noisy.

[scott boyd]

Makes a lot of sense. Thanks, everybody.

[Andrew Hughes]

Aww yes I've done those ones.I made a little gouge tool for the curved part.
It works on quadrant hinges too.
Lineing up the lid to the base used to be my dread.
Those are nice hinges very clean and well worth the time to get right.

Aj

[scott boyd]

Would you elaborate on the tool-what is it made of/from, how did you do it, etc.

[Andrew Hughes]

Would you elaborate on the tool-what is it made of/from, how did you do it, etc.

I think the little finger nail gauge came from a Ryobi electric carving tool.I glued it into a handle of wood probably with epoxy.
I have a smaller one I use on the Rockler quadrant hinge.Made from a wood carving gouge.
It doesn't have to be a perfect match.Because you'll want to sneak up to the scribe line and nibble away at the wood.For a perfect fit.
Do you have any carving tools that you can grind a finger nail shape on.Thats the ticket!

Aj

[peter Joseph]

I'm guessing you want the bevel on the inside of the gouge andrew??

[Andrew Hughes]

Yes that defiantly would make the tool easy to use.
I thought about cutting some tubing in half then I could sharpen the inside.
But my metal working department is lacking.So it just a pipe dream.:rolleyes:

Aj

[Mike Henderson]

This is off subject, but I've found that the Brusso JB-102 stop hinges are about the easiest to install on a box.

For bigger boxes, use the JB-103.

Mike

[After a bit of research, I found that those hinges are called "Side Rail Stop Hinges" or just "Side Rail Hinges". I also found a set at Woodcraft for $19.95 (http://www.woodcraft.com/product/161694/highpoint-side-rail-hinge-solid-brass-pair.aspx) that look pretty good. I have not used these so I can't vouch for how they work or how easy they are to install. I'll probably buy a set and give them a try.]

[Andrew Hughes]

Greg H is selling a Ryobi carving set in the Classified section that has the little finger nail gouge that I use to fit hinges with round ends.
From what I remember the carving tool was pretty decent and I used mine till it died.
The different carving gouges it came with were pretty decent steel.