"New" (1940) Unisaw Gloat

[Ernie Hobbs]

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</td> </tr> <tr class="HomeInfoSubTable"> <td width="100%">I Bought this Unisaw from school shop auction for $275. It came painted Green and Yellow and very dirty. I took it apart, stripped off about 4 different colors of paint (started Delta gray, then off-white, then orange, then green & Yellow) and repainted Delta gray. I found original Delta cabinet door label under green paint and original tilt guide serial number M271. I did a little research on and found out that the "M" series was the start of the continuous base after the four-footed models and it appears that it was made in 1940. I also came with the original 1HP 1725 RPM bullet motor. I fired it up, once painted and lubricated and it runs smooth as ever. I intend to use this as a replacement to my old Delta contractors table saw. I will probably upgrade the motor to 3 or 5 HP sometime in the next few months. Another bonus is that it came with a HTC Brett-Guard table saw guard. I looked this up and noticed that this alone sells for about $300 at Woodcraft. That's worth more than I paid for the entire table saw.
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[Richard Wolf]

That's a keeper, Ernie, nice job.

Richard

[John Bailey]

Way cool!! Makes my trigger finger itch for some "ole 'arn." And my wife has started her Greek "stay away from the checkbook" dance.

John

[Steve Ash]

Looks and sounds like a heckuva deal Ernie....Congrats! Hmmmm...Green and Yellow sounds like either a Packers or John Deere fan owned it at one time.

[Ernie Hobbs]

Looks and sounds like a heckuva deal Ernie....Congrats! Hmmmm...Green and Yellow sounds like either a Packers or John Deere fan owned it at one time.

Steve:

It came from Northeastern High School in Elizabeth City, NC and their colors were green and yellow. I don't have fond memories of them since I played football at Perquimans County (the next town over). They were 4A and we were 1A so, needless to say, they brutally crushed us when we played them.

I thought of painting it something more interesting than gray but, when I realized how old it is, I thought the right thing was to restore it to its original condition as best as I could.

[Corey Hallagan]

Awesome! I love the old repainted and tuned up table saws. Its a real beauty! Congrats.

Corey

[Steve Schoene]

I've got a clone of the saw you have, though mine is still in original paint and therefore is not so pretty. I should warn you that upgrading the motor to 3 hp. is going to require a bit of surgery on the cabinet. The new motor is smaller in diameter, but enough longer that the hole has to be expanded downward for clearance when the blade is tilted. (And, of course you will need a new motor pulley.) But the old 115 volt motor is as strong as you are likely to find for the rated hp. All parts were available when I tuned mine up a few years ago. If you do need bearings or an arbor, you can keep the saw as usable as a new one, although heavier with the cast iron base ring (and heavier sheet metal I think.) The saw dust door is a big help too especially if you are like me and periodically drop the arbor nut.

You may want to upgrade from the Jet Lock rip fence. I have a Vega, but there are plenty of other good ones. The bolt holes for mounting will be the same as in the current saw models. Similarly, the Beisemeyer splitter also installs easily. (Mine also came with the Brett Guard, (actually two of them) but I don't use it.)

You've got a great saw--thats for sure.

[Dev Emch]

Yaaahhhhh Baby! Score City! Dats-ah-Keepppaaa!

You nailed this one! Excellent price point **AND** excellent machine. You even got the cast iron base ring with an orig. bullet motor. About the only thing I see missing is a replacement goose egg cover. These can be had from one of the guys on OWWM. He had a bunch of new ones cast in PA and he is selling them virtually at cost. Check the OWWM guys or Bill S. I personally dont need one right now so this bit of data isnt forthcomming.

Give the motor a good test drive. It may not be necessary to upgrade here. I have heard from many that the bullet motor performs as well as the new 3 HP motor. The bullet motor is an induction-repulsion motor and is significantly different in how its built. It is rummered that this motor has massively more plowing torque than the standard unisaw motor of today.

I have heard this from many sources including OWWM guys as well as folks at the woodworking show. Both show vendors and visitors. So replace the motor ONLY if you find a tad more power really needed. Then go straight to a 5 HP.

[Vaughn McMillan]

Talk about a score...that's a great saw and an even greater price. Nice job on the refurb, too.

- Vaughn

[Dan Forman]

That is one tremendous deal you have there. Congrat's, and have fun with it.

Dan

[Alan Turner]

Ernie. Great looking old iron. Steve's comment about the fence is right on. I had this same fence on my first TS, a Delta contractors saw purchased new in 1975. The rear of the fence will not accurately follow the front. And, the sheet metal fence itself, at least on mine, was not straight at all. A real PITA. That said, I used it with good effect until getting a then new Uni in 1992. Burned through 2 motors, etc. No DC other than a box under the saw. But, fond memories.

[lou sansone]

very nice. as you know I really like the old iron. jee how are you going to cope without plastic handles on everything ! :D

best wishes
lou

[Chris Barton]

This looks like a great project! I too love the look of old iron!

[Phil Phelps]

I have the same saw, grew up with it. The original motor does fine with a good blade , but with hardwoods, it usually burns one edge. It just can't handle oak, ash, maple and the like. If you're ripping five quarter up, I usually had to make two passes. A buddy, (some buddy), burned up the original motor and I upgraded to a horse and a half. It sounded like a jet and I think the rpm is too much, actually. So, if you upgrade to a 3 or 5 hp, you probably will have to make the cabinet hole larger. And that fence is worthless. I hate that thing. Slap a Beismeyer or something on it, quick.

[Steve Clardy]

Nice Gloat!!! I love old iron.

[Dale Rodabaugh]

Truly a nice find,hope you enjoy it.I am contemplating a new saw.The Unisaw is on my list to ck.out.,but wow,.1940 that saw is almost as old as me.Bet it is just as good as a new one.:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :cool:

[Dev Emch]

Hey Dale....
Sorry to disappoint you. The 1940 unisaw is not even close to the modern unisaw of today! Not even close!

I can write a PhD dissertation on why this machine is better than today's unisaw. But I wont. Surfice it to say, there are many features on the old saw that no longer exist on the new saw. I am not particularly happy with the new unisaw and that is why I openly endorse the general 350 and 650 table saw for this particular class of machine. But should a chance to snag one of these arise, I dont even need to think about it. It will be a mad stampede to the phone to yell "SOLD".

Now for you guys looking for one as well, take note. The unisaws that predate this 1940 unit had four feet inplace of the cast iron base ring. If you see one of these, **SNAG** it ASAP! Four footers are rare and they are wonderful small profile cabinet saws! I also prefer the saws with cast iron goose egg motor covers but this cover can now be replaced. But dont call Delta looking for this part. PM me if you need the contact info to find one. ITs not me but I know where to get them.

[Dev Emch]

One other point. This fence is horrid. iTs the one item I dont like. Never really liked any of the delta fences. You can put on an HTC Beisemeyer clone or an actual Beisemeyer and resolve this.

[Dale Rodabaugh]

Dev,your not dissapointing me.The general 650 is another one on my list to ck.out.The 3rd one on the list is the Shop Fox,which I have heard some good reports on,including price.I will ck.them all out pretty good before I make a choice.:confused: :confused: :confused: :cool:

[Bill Simmeth]

Ernie -- nice resto job! Saw your pics over on OWWM this morning and admired it there, too.


I upgraded to a horse and a half. It sounded like a jet and I think the rpm is too much, actually.The older unisaws (in the vintage of Ernie's) had/have 1725 RPM motors with appropriately sized pulleys. The replacement you used probably is 3450 RPM which is the speed used in newer (~1950 and on) unisaws. If you didn't replace the pulley, your arbor and blade are spinning at twice the design speed. :eek: Not a good thing. If you still have this saw, I'd recommend changing out the motor pulley.

[Seth Poorman]

Nice Machine Ernie

Looks like my 60s unisaw,not much difference other than the motor !!
Good score man !!!!;) Ive been looking for 4 footed model and still have not found one yet:( .
Seth..

[Phil Phelps]

Ernie -- nice resto job! Saw your pics over on OWWM this morning and admired it there, too.

The older unisaws (in the vintage of Ernie's) had/have 1725 RPM motors with appropriately sized pulleys. The replacement you used probably is 3450 RPM which is the speed used in newer (~1950 and on) unisaws. If you didn't replace the pulley, your arbor and blade are spinning at twice the design speed. :eek: Not a good thing. If you still have this saw, I'd recommend changing out the motor pulley.
It's been years, I can't remember. I do remember going to the source to buy a new motor, because I couldn't rewind the old one. Even if that was the case, I don't think I wanted it. I don't think I changed pulleys, but I remember changing the switch. The original had a toggle switch, and I distinctly remember the guy wouldn't recommend a switch because of liability. He was as much help as a blind seeing eye dog. I quit using that saw six years ago. Come to think of it, I used the pulley from the old motor on the new one. I need to check it out, though. Thanks.

[Bill Simmeth]

I remember changing the switch. The original had a toggle switchYou wouldn't happen to still have that toggle switch? If it's the original toggle switch with the art deco style black and silver cover plate, they routinely go for $150+ on eBay depending on condition. They are much sought after by machine restorers.

[Phil Phelps]

You wouldn't happen to still have that toggle switch? If it's the original toggle switch with the art deco style black and silver cover plate, they routinely go for $150+ on eBay depending on condition. They are much sought after by machine restorers.
You're just doing this out of meaness :D
I've remodeled the shop eight years ago and I haven't the foggest. But, I'm certainly gonna' take a look now ;)

[nic obie]

I picked up yesterday what seems to be a twin of Ernie's saw.

Bought it from the granddaughter of the original owner. He had bought it to build cabinets for his house. His daughter, who was there when I picked it up, said he hardly ever used it. He was 96 when he passed away so I guess it could have been made in the 40's.

I don't know what model number it is, but the serial number is 60-7791. It still has the mitre gauge and came with the original blade changing wrench. The top is in perfect condition, zero rust and no dark drink rings either. I'm not even going to paint it, just give it a good cleaning.

I paid $250 for it and she threw in 5 jorgie bar clamps to boot! I am totally jazzed.

Click on the link in the add for pics.


http://slo.craigslist.org/tls/100226945.html


I already have a MM sliding, scoring TS so I don't need this one. I wonder what to ask for it?

[Dale Rodabaugh]

Nice find Nic,Enjoy.:rolleyes: ;) :cool:

[Bill Simmeth]

I don't know what model number it is, but the serial number is 60-7791. It still has the mitre gauge and came with the original blade changing wrench. <SNIP>I already have a MM sliding, scoring TS so I don't need this one. I wonder what to ask for it?Nice score! Now there's that switch I mentioned to Phil -- DO NOT THROW IT AWAY!

If you're looking to flip it, I'd clean it up and e*ay it. With the original switch and wrench you'd do very well...

Oh, the serial number dates it to 1948.

[nic obie]

Oh, the serial number dates it to 1948.

:eek:

I checked out the saw today...

The arbor is tight, trunnion works smooth and I couldn't find any repair work (welds).

It's got the cast iron base too.


:D :D :D :D :D

[Bill Simmeth]

That's older than I amMe too, thank God!

[Mike Wilkins]

Hey Ernie; great find and it's nice to see you are a local. I got my 1964 Rockwell/Delta from a used dealer in New Bern. I replaced the original tube rail fence set-up with a Unifence, new paint job (industrial gray) and made a homemade motor cover.
You may run into a problem trying to replace the original motor. The Delta catalog lists replacement motors as being specific for this type of saw, with the oval shaped cut-out. Seems the newer Unisaw replacement motors will bump into the cabinet side due to the oval shaped opening. Mine is a 220 volt motor with 11/2 HP, and has to be replaced with something similar.
If you don't mind doing some surgery on the cabinet, the replacement Unisaw motors should work fine.
Good luck and watch those fingers.

[Ernie Hobbs]

Thanks for all of the kind words. I have had a chance to use my new saw a couple of times and have been very happy. One complaint is that my motor seems to get bogged down too easily and can't seem to generate enough power to cut anything more than 1/2" thick, unless I go really slow. I'm wondering is maybe I screwed up the wiring? This was my first time running 230v current into the shop and I just ran a line off of the dryer line in my breaker box. There was only a single space available and not enough room for a double.

Can anyone point me to a resource to correctly run a 230v line so I can check to see if mine is OK?

I'd like to try to use this motor, if I can get it to work. The rest of the saw is awesome and a huge improvement over my contractors saw.

[Ernie Hobbs]

I have had a chance to use my new Unisaw a number of times in the last month or so. I am very happy with the entire package but, the motor is very weak. I assumed that I screwed up the wiring so, last weekend, I took apart all the wiring and got a volt meter to check out the outlet I put in. After replacing the old wires from the motor and rewiring the switch, it didn't improve the performance one bit. I sawed up some 5/4 walnut this week and it was able to cut it but only if I went really slow. Since this is a basic function that we need to have a functional tablesaw, I will need to upgrade.

The good thing is that, even though the Jet lock fence will eventually be upgraded to a biesemeyer or something else, It seems to function very well and is perfectly square. I don't really see the need to change any time soon. A huge improvement over the piece of junk fence on my old contractors saw.

Anyway, to make a long story short, I need a new motor. Any advice on where to find a steal on a 3 or 5 hp unisaw motor? I'd prefer to stay in the 220-250v variety, since I just had the outlet put in. I guess I'll need to replace the pulleys too. Terre Hooks posted one about a month ago but that one has sold. Any thoughts?

Thanks.

[Bob Stroman]

Amazon ran deep (and deeper) discounts on Unisaw 3hp right tilt motors at the holidays last year. I missed out, but I got one rebuilt at a motor shop for the same price. Maybe they will do it again and you will be lucky.

[Chris Barton]

Hi Ernie (Go Wake Forest!)

I would just shop around on "Froogle" and find the best deal. My guess is that it's not the wiring but, too few HP...

[Mike Swindell]

Nice score. I'd remove the motor and find a local shop that can test it. The old RI have mucho torque and you should not have problem sawing 2" stock with the proper blade - not a combo blade but a true 24tooth rip blade. Check the folks over at www.owwm.com for information. Post a question and you will get answers. I just bought a 70's vintage Unisaw for $250 with 3 hp and it sure is a gem. Not an older model but it sure works great. I bought an original jetlock fence new in the box, and it works great. All my cuts are square, remember these fences were used for 30 years before Biesmeyer was even invented.