Jasper Circle Cutting Jigs - Normal vs Pro Version and Is Pivot Plat Worth Getting?

[Ben Rivel]

Been wanting to get a good circle cutting jig and have been thinking about picking up a Jasper Model 240 (LINK (http://jaspertools.com/model-240-circle-guide/)). I have been searching around the net trying to find anyone commenting on the normal vs pro versions. Wondering if the pro version is worth the extra money. Anyone out there ever compared the normal and pro version and seen any differences in quality first hand?

Also is the Model 350 Pivot Plat (LINK (http://jaspertools.com/model-350-pivot-plat/)) a useful addition?

And FWIW I was planning to use a Whiteside RU4700 1/4" 2 flute spiral upcut bit and a Bosch 1617 router with the jig.

[Earl McLain]

Ben--I just went through that decision about 6 weeks ago. Ordered online, so didn't do a hands-on comparison--but for the $10 difference I opted for the Pro (polycarbonate) version. My "shop" is an unheated garage, and plastics tend to get brittle in cold weather. Have used the jig several times since, wish i'd bought one sooner. Bought the pivot plate at the same time, have not used it yet since I've been making holes instead of discs--but looks like it will work fine and it beats ordering later. I'm wanting to do some small tables and considering some round cutting/cheese boards--so that's where i'll use the pivot plate. Can envision doing the juice groove (core box bit) as well.

I have 3 plunge bases for my 1617's, so I've committed one to the Jasper and can just swap out the motor--so it stays convenient and i'll use it more. Using the same Whiteside bit you mentioned, and it cuts like a Whiteside,

earl

[Ben Rivel]

Ben--I just went through that decision about 6 weeks ago. Ordered online, so didn't do a hands-on comparison--but for the $10 difference I opted for the Pro (polycarbonate) version. My "shop" is an unheated garage, and plastics tend to get brittle in cold weather. Have used the jig several times since, wish i'd bought one sooner. Bought the pivot plate at the same time, have not used it yet since I've been making holes instead of discs--but looks like it will work fine and it beats ordering later. I'm wanting to do some small tables and considering some round cutting/cheese boards--so that's where i'll use the pivot plate. Can envision doing the juice groove (core box bit) as well.

I have 3 plunge bases for my 1617's, so I've committed one to the Jasper and can just swap out the motor--so it stays convenient and i'll use it more. Using the same Whiteside bit you mentioned, and it cuts like a Whiteside,

earl
Yea thats kinda what I was thinking too, for the extra $10 why not? I was just kinda curious with the reviews on the normal/standard version being so good and abundant how bad could it be and thus how much better could that $10 extra Pro material be. I'll probably go with the Pro but just wondered if anyone out there had actually compared the two.

I like your idea of dedicating a plunge base to it. Ill consider that, but I had been considering dedicating a plunge base to the Leigh FMT when I get one someday. Thats a lot of bases to have to buy for one router. Motor on that router better last a lifetime!

[Bruce Wrenn]

With hundreds of plans available for make a trammel, I can't justify buying one. I have used shop made trammels from 1/2" to 60 feet. The latter was used to make front of podium in a church. My shop built micro adjustable does from 1/2" to 4 feet. With proper extensions I could do most any length radius.

[Greg Hines, MD]

I have used a wooden plywood strip for routing large holes, and now have an M-Power router base that I use for making really big radii, as well as even smaller radii. I like that it is infinitely adjustable and repeatable, but for the occasional user, a strip of plywood would suffice.

One trick that I picked up from the Router Workshop was to drill a 1" hole in the end, rather than mounting the router to it, and using a template guide to allow the router to rotate in it, so your handle is always the way you want it to be.

Doc

[Andy Giddings]

I've used both the 240 and the 300 frequently, they have always been reliable and spot on in terms of repeatability. I use a Festool mid size router with the jigs and the centering pin helps remove any small inaccuracy. I don't see a need for the pro version unless you are in a production environment and/or treat the jigs roughly. The standard jigs are solid.

Regarding the Pivot Plat it really depends on whether you see yourself ever using a circle jig without drilling a pivot hole. Its easy to replicate the Plat with your own jig when/if needed

[Glenn de Souza]

One trick that I picked up from the Router Workshop was to drill a 1" hole in the end, rather than mounting the router to it, and using a template guide to allow the router to rotate in it, so your handle is always the way you want it to be.

Doc
That's a good tip Doc, thanks. Seems completely obvious in hindsight, but it never occurred to me.
Lee Valley sells a circle cutting pivot point for $6.50 http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=41781&cat=1,43000 which I like because it secures the trammel with a knurled screw. Between your tip and the pivot point, you can make a router trammel of your desired length in about a minute on the fly, and never even have to take the time to remove the router base plate (and in my case, lose one of the four screws).
Glenn