Cracks in drawer parts

[Robin Frierson]

So I save this wide maple plank for my drawer fronts, cutting them all from same board. Rough cut them all 1.5" extra, jointed a face and let them sit overnight. Came back and half of the ends have a 1 to 2in end crack in them. Tried filling them with epoxy mixed with saw dust but the crack is so tight cant seem to get the material in the cracks. So any suggestions?.... and why would a board be prone to checking so much.

[peter gagliardi]

There is only one reason for checking as you describe. Differential moisture content within the board between the ends and faces, and the core of the board.
The fresh cut ends are drying faster than the middle.
Also, milling just one face and letting sit is a no-no, it only adds to the problem.

[John TenEyck]

I'll bet that board had not been in your shop very long. It must have had quite a bit higher moisture content to check so quickly after cutting it. Your misfortune is another example of why you are best off only using wood that is in equilibrium with your shop. And nothing you can do to save those boards now, except keep them for another project in the future that needs shorter lengths.

John

[Robin Frierson]

This board has been in my shop for about one month so it should be in equilibrium. And I always just mill one face and let them sit overnight before going forward and never had this bad of a problem. If it moves in the night then I rejoint before planing. Maybe I should change my procedure. Sometimes you get a short end check but nothing like this. This board had heartwood on one face and sap on the other. Its about 12in wide and very tight growth rings. So looks like I will have to start over with these drawer fronts. Its getting worse, new checks came on today. Never seen this before.

[Scott Cenicola]

I agree to always joint or plane a little off each side equally , and I stand boards in edge overnight to get maximim exposure. However, it doesn't sound like this would have helped you anyway. Sorry that happened to you, it stinks to have to start over.

[Frank Pratt]

Do you know what the moisture content was? If not properly dried, then a month in your shop may not have been enough. Assuming it's 4/4 stock, it could take up to a year to fully dry out.

[Jim Dwight]

Could it be that the wood was under stress that was relieved when it was cut up and that revealed itself in checks?

[Robin Frierson]

I don't know the moisture content. But I bought it with a bunch of other maple from Wall lumber. It's 5/4 kiln dried. The Lumber seems to have a lot of internal stress in it. I don't think it's a moisture problem but more of a stress problem within this particular board. Of course I don't have another wide board for the lower drawer fronts so I will have to settle for a glued up front for the widest fronts.

[Frank Pratt]

I'm no authority on kiln drying, but I've read that improper drying (too much heat, too early) will introduce all manner of internal stress in the lumber.

[pat warner]

I've seen it, experienced it & lived with it.
But I live where the %RH can change from 70 to 10 in one day.
And that's when it occurred. When the RH increased, the checks disappeared.

[Mel Fulks]

When rough cutting I have always trimmed board ends and struck the saw table with the scrap. If it breaks I cut and try again. Sometimes you get a board that has an unseen crack from end to the other that might become visible after trimming.

[John Lankers]

If the board doesn't have the pith or part of it then these internal tensions could be caused by a myriad of things even being dried to fast.
When I mill lumber I try to remove equal amounts from both sides and if it still keeps a mind of its own I rip it down the middle and glue it back together - problem solved.
Edit: I use a slider for ripping, be very very careful on a tablesaw.