I was wrong, I likey tracksaw

[julian abram]

In recent years I've read many of the threads bragging about various brands of tracksaws. I kind of poo-pooed folks in love with their track saws, just couldn't see the need. A good circular saw with a guide does everything a tracksaw can do, right? Well, I purchased a Dewalt tracksaw about a year ago and have become a believer in what a useful tool this is. I've used it to break down numerous sheets of ply, straight line 2x8x8' for farm tables, straight line rough sawn walnut in various lengths, plunge cut cabinet skirts, etc. What got me to thinking about this today, I was building a 30" x 8' countertop for a work island. When I was getting ready to cut some 2"x8' laminate edge strips I was dreading the wresting match to run these through the table saw. Suddenly I remember I had a track saw that would do that. I plopped that 4'x8' sheet of Formica face down on top of blue dow board on the cutting table, marked off 2" strips and in 3 minutes had to nice straight 2"x8' strips.
Now I remember some threads where folks said a tracksaw replaced their tablesaw, that ain't gonna happen in my shop. The tablesaw will be one of the last power tools to leave my shop, but I have certainly been amazed at the convenience and various tasks the tracksaw can perform. A year later, verdict is money well spent! :)

[Ben Rivel]

Yep. Exactly.

[Mike Berrevoets]

I was like you until I bought one.

On this kitchen remodel project it has been very handy, especially for odd angled cuts. Draw the pencil line, drop the guide on it and cut. It was also invaluable with the island butcher block top. I just cut it in place once I had the pieces joined together and fastened to the cabinets.

When I bought it I told my wife id probably just sell it when I was done with the kitchen cabinet project. But now I'm kind of used to using it an I'm not sure I can give it up.

[Mike Henderson]

I agree. There are times when a track saw is just the right tool. Like you, I'm never going to give up my cabinet saw but the track saw allows me to do some things I couldn't easily do on the table saw.

Mike

[Rich Engelhardt]

In recent years I've read many of the threads bragging about various brands of tracksaws.In recent years I've read many of the threads bragging about various brands of tracksaws.
Au contraire.....(@ least in my case anyhow)..

Never have I bragged about owning a Festool TS 55EQ track saw. Just the opposite!
I envy the people with the ability and talent that can take a shop made guide and produce exceptional quality work using it.

I tried going down that road and came up severely lacking. It was only after a lot of trying to justify to myself the value of such a fine tool that I admitted defeat and "bought my talent".


I have certainly been amazed at the convenience and various tasks the tracksaw can performExactly....I'd like to mark each thread that comes up and say "if you had a track saw, we wouldn't be having this discussion".

[Marc Burt]

I agree, and unless i suffer a major loss of space I can't see my tracksaw replacing my table saw or bandsaw anytime soon. (I do most ripping on bandsaw rather than table saw anyway)

But I wanted to add on to your topic, I hope that's okay. For years I ranted about the Festool MFT tables. What a waste of money I said. You'd have to be an idiot I said. Then I found a good deal on craigslist for a barely used one and decided what the hell. I could always sell it again for that anyway. I have to say I love that thing. I still don't know if I could pay full price, but dang does it make things easier!

[Jim Dwight]

I like my DeWalt track saw a lot too. I built a Paulk style bench for it with crosscut attachment. I still use my table saw a lot but I took off the extension rails. Short rail table saw + track saw is a much better setup than either alone or a long rail table saw. Can't say about a slider. I don't have the space or money for that.

[Jim Becker]

I don't use mine a lot, but when it's the "right tool for the job", it can't be beat. 'Glad you are finding yours to be the same!

[Mike Wilkins]

I know the feeling. Got mine (the green German brand) after making a mess of a sheet of Oak plywood with a home-made guide, which was a 2 X 4 which was anything but straight.
Now there is a tracksaw/guide system from the green brand folks that is intended for carpenters cutting framing lumber on site, with short guide rails.

[Larry Frank]

I love my green track saw. I can no longer handle a sheet of plywood on my cabinet saw. The track saw works great and easier on me. It is at the top of my list of favorite tools.

[Martin Wasner]

I don't use mine a lot, but when it's the "right tool for the job", it can't be beat. 'Glad you are finding yours to be the same!

That pretty much sums it up for me. It solves or simplifies some strange problems. Compound mitres on panels are so easy. When I have to cut or bizarre cabinets with bizarre angles it's made that much easier as well.

I didn't think I'd find it as useful as I have, that's for sure.

[Rich Riddle]

I think it's the safest tool for me to cut down sheet goods when working solo.

[Scott Cenicola]

Anyone have one of these?

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Mini-Track-Saw-Super-Kit/T27444

I am looking to enter the track saw market on the less expensive end. The only review on the website doesn't seem great.

Funny, you can't find any used track saws on CL. I guess that's a good sign?

[Van Huskey]

Anyone have one of these?

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Mini-Track-Saw-Super-Kit/T27444

I am looking to enter the track saw market on the less expensive end. The only review on the website doesn't seem great.

Funny, you can't find any used track saws on CL. I guess that's a good sign?

There are a TON of reviews and modding how-to videos and forum posts all over the web about the Grizzly/Scheppach tracksaw. The general timbre of the reviews is that has a few warts but is a decent alternative to the higher priced saws. There was a time when you could almost always find great deals on the Makita and Dewalt, those seem to have dried up.

[Ole Anderson]

I have the full size Grizzly and love it, but you are referring to the new "mini" version. Sorry, can't help you there. But I would say that seldom have I needed a cut deeper than the mini would saw.

I just used mine to cut a kitchen sink opening in a Formica counter top with a pre-molded back splash. My jigsaw was giving me fits trying to keep a straight line, so I grabbed the track saw and it worked great as I cut the corners with a hole saw, and I could cut a line 1/2" off the back splash, another advantage of a track saw.

[Van Huskey]

I have the full size Grizzly and love it, but you are referring to the new "mini" version.

I missed that he was referring to the Mini version, not a whole low of reviews on it.

[Ken Kortge]

Anyone have one of these?

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Mini-Track-Saw-Super-Kit/T27444

I am looking to enter the track saw market on the less expensive end. The only review on the website doesn't seem great.

Funny, you can't find any used track saws on CL. I guess that's a good sign?

Take a look at Eurekazone.com and their track saw products. If you already have a circular saw, for another $180 (+ shipping) you can have a VERY nice 54" track with clamps and saw base (that you easily mount to the circular saw - watch the how-to video on the site). Provides you with safe accurate cuts with clean edges on BOTH sides of the kerf with a typical carbide tooth circular saw blade. Even with base installed saw can be used on or off track. Each saw & blade custom cuts the low cost ($4.50 & $7.50) base insert and track anti-chip edge providing zero-clearance on both sides of cut. Heavy duty I-beam like tracks are made in the US, not China. The founder Dino supposedly once used them as ramps for a little car (I won't try that with my truck though).

I am NOT associated with Eurekazone. Just a very happy customer that discovered their track system after having given up on cutting - and thus using - plywood after trying it on a table saw, using homemade straight edge, jig saw, and even a hand saw. It litterally saved my woodworking hobby. I've used their tracks, their square, and their repeaters. All work as advertized. I recently bought their universal edge guide and router system too, but have not had a chance to use them yet. I'm a little nervous about the edge guide since it is really off-track - blood pressure rising - but others use it and love it, so I'll see how it works.

Oh, some of the components are also available on Amazon.com - but not all!!

EZ Track System Intro Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-i3df2FfDgw
EZ Base Intro Video (shows clean cuts): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sSGkG17sNE8
EZ Base Installation Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gvmeqS90JtE
Universal Edge Guide - that works with EZ base: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8qYezPjhLqs

[Cary Falk]

I bought a DeWalt and a short track for $310. I am very happy with it. I don't use it all the time but makes a lot of jobs easier.

[Jim Dwight]

I also have and like a DeWalt. The only things I see "wrong" with the little Grizzly are the short tracks and limited depth of cut. It doesn't seem to be aimed at the same market. Probably not real useful to break down sheet goods but could be handy for smaller projects. The ability to cut metal and masonary with a track saw is something I wouldn't try with my DeWalt.

[Van Huskey]

Since this has become a general tracksaw thread I was condering if anyone has seen the new Festool HK 85 which can use a carbide insert trenching (dado) head. While not for me price wise it does seem to cover much of the last remaining allure of a RAS for me.

https://www.festool.com/Products/Pages/Product-Detail.aspx?pid=574665&name=HK-85-portable-circular-saw-HK-85-EB-Plus-FSK420

https://www.festool.com/Products/Accessories/Pages/Detail.aspx?pid=200163&name=Accessories-for-HK-85-portable-circular-saw-VN-HK85-130x16-25

While designed for the timber framing industry set up on a table with a flip down track it could give some easy dados and while limited in depth and width it still would cover most of my needs in that area. The question is will it even come to NA, NAINA is the bane of many Festoolians on this side of he Atlantic.

[lowell holmes]

When I set up my saw, they had no tracksaws. A piece of plywood with a wood strip down the side served as my rip guide.

Place a 3/4X2 strip down the side of the guide, cut the gage line with your saw, and you will have a good rip guide.

I have a 4' long one as well that is handy.

[Jim Becker]

Lowell, that method still absolutely works and clearly is economical. The one advantage, however, of the "track saws" is that the track itself stabilizes the saw so it cannot inadvertently stray from the guide. The better ones also help support the wood fibers right to the blade for a cleaner cut. "Whatever works" for the individual woodworker is the way to go!

[Bob Falk]

I bought a Makita track saw last year and I was a little unsure if it would be worth the expense. I have to say, I have found a lot of use for it to break down plywood and other sheathing materials for ongoing remodeling at our home....extremely useful and much easier than trying to move a 4x8 sheet to the table saw. I really think it is more accurate to cut larger pieces of plywood with a track saw than a table saw. By far the best purchase I have made in woodworking tools in the last few years.

[Mike Cutler]

I find the track saw a pretty nice compliment to the rest of the machinery. For a person working alone it makes certain tasks a lot easier, quicker, and safer, to accomplish.

[lowell holmes]

Jim,
I would like a track saw. I just don't use full sheets of plywood anymore. I would have one if I had the need.

The 48" jig is handy for cutting door bottoms as well. I try to avoid lifting solid doors, so it doesn't get the use it has in the past.
:)

I do have a two piece aluminum rip guide that was a forerunner to the home made, but I don't like the joining mechanism of the two pieces.

[Jim Dwight]

One of the disadvantages of the circular saw with guide method is that the edge of the base is rarely parallel to the blade. Track saws are set up with a small amount of toe out (back of blade a little further from the wood than front) like I set my table saw fence. If you mess with your circular saw to get it parallel or a slight amount toed out, it should help you not have to fight the saw to keep it against the guide. I think the bearings are also different, however. The bearings of my Milwaukee do not seem to be good enough to get the smooth cut I get with my DeWalt track saw regardless of how well it is guided and how fine toothed a blade I use.

But for cruder cuts, a guided circular saw certainly works.

[Jim Becker]

Jim,
I would like a track saw. I just don't use full sheets of plywood anymore.
Interestingly, I've never used my track saw to cut down a sheet of plywood. Most of its use has been either for home improvement tasks and for cuts in the shop that (inadvertently) had to be made after something was assembled. Track saws certainly excel at cutting down sheet goods and with a nice layer of foam insulation, you can even do that on your dining room table. (I have a friend who has done just that, believe it or not) But they are very versatile for so many things. I also use the track with a router for grooves and dados, particularly for long narrow things where the groove needs to cross the short dimension, such as for shelving.

[Van Huskey]

When you get tired of working, let the saw do the work for you...


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tn8npDkfKCo

[lowell holmes]

One of the disadvantages of the circular saw with guide method is that the edge of the base is rarely parallel to the blade. Track saws are set up with a small amount of toe out (back of blade a little further from the wood than front) like I set my table saw fence. If you mess with your circular saw to get it parallel or a slight amount toed out, it should help you not have to fight the saw to keep it against the guide. I think the bearings are also different, however. The bearings of my Milwaukee do not seem to be good enough to get the smooth cut I get with my DeWalt track saw regardless of how well it is guided and how fine toothed a blade I use.

But for cruder cuts, a guided circular saw certainly works.

I certainly don't suggest a guide is equal to a track saw. However, for the person that occasionally cuts sheet goods, it is a good substitute.

If you make your guide by fastening the guide strip to the plywood portion of the jig and then cut the plywood to the jig with the circular saw (with carbide tip blade), you will get a guide that is straight, square, and accurate. There were no track saws available when I made mine. You absolutely have to use a carbide tooth blade in the circular saw.

If I were cutting plywood today, I would have a track saw. As I commented earlier, I have a jig for cutting door bottoms that gives absolutely straight bottoms with the ability bevel the door bottom as is proper for entrance doors.

My circular saw is a 50 year old Dewalt 6" saw with a 40 tooth carbide tipped blade in it. There is no bearing run out and the cuts are splinter free. The base is absolutey parallel to the blade.
Cheap plastic body circular saws are a different animal than my circulars saws. Just for the record I also have a quality 10" table saw and for that matter a radial arm saw (my dad's 1960's vintage).
I really don't use the radial arm saw any more.

[lowell holmes]

Interestingly, I've never used my track saw to cut down a sheet of plywood. Most of its use has been either for home improvement tasks and for cuts in the shop that (inadvertently) had to be made after something was assembled. Track saws certainly excel at cutting down sheet goods and with a nice layer of foam insulation, you can even do that on your dining room table. (I have a friend who has done just that, believe it or not) But they are very versatile for so many things. I also use the track with a router for grooves and dados, particularly for long narrow things where the groove needs to cross the short dimension, such as for shelving.

If I had the need, I certainly would have a track saw. I just don't have the need or space for that matter to use one. I would think they need to be kept out on a table to be used. It is a "toy" I would enjoy having. I'm getting too old and tired to horse 4X8 sheets of 3/4" plywood around anymore. I still have long bed pickup with a camper shell and a plastic plywood sheet carrier handle, but I would really have to need it to do it. If you live long enough you will be there too.:)

[Tom Ewell]

I didn't overthink my purchase of a track saw over a decade ago.

It basically replaced all of the jigs I used to make and carry around for a standard circular saw. Tracks are in a convenient case, the saw and accessories are in one box.

The setup eliminated the need account for offsets when cutting anything other than 90°, set it to the mark and cut any bevel you wish.

Added benefit of dust collection and a more controlled plunge capability when needed.

It generally makes things easier, fitting new door blanks into old door jambs, fitting extension jambs to interior walls, fitting ply to raked soffits at hips and valleys, fitting decorative panels, countertop fits and cutouts...... pretty much any job requiring well done n' accurate cuts.

It doesn't really do anything that I've not done using other methods, just does it mo' better, particularly at the jobsite.

[Jim Dwight]

Lowell,

I have no interest in convincing you to buy another tool you don't seem to want. If your cuts with your circular saw are as clean as your table saw makes then your circular saw is a lot better than mine. But as long as it is good enough for you, I agree you don't need a track saw.

I used a plywood guide with my Milwaukee for many years. It worked fine for breakdown and other rougher cuts. I had to occasionally use it for a finished cut but I couldn't depend on the cut being real accurate so I would only do it for something like the back of a cabinet. 1/16 was very possible but within 1/64 just wasn't for me.

Before I got a track saw, I had long extension rails on my table saw and could use the rip fence up to 60 inches from the blade. But that took a lot of preparation in my little shop to get things out of the way and arrange infeed and outfeed support. But it worked. The track saw is just a easier way to do it.

I can still handle the sheets of 3/4 by myself but it isn't exactly fun (I'm 60). Sometimes I put a 1/4 lattice I made years ago on the little HF trailer I haul sheet goods in and just cut it up there. One of the videos I saw that convinced me to buy a track saw was by a guy that couldn't cut up sheet goods any more, even though he had a rail saw, because of health reasons. But with the track saw, he just slid the sheets out of his truck onto a fold up table he made with a top like my lattice and cut them up. I don't need to do this yet but I haven't pitched my lattice yet. With some legs I could do the same thing - although my trailer is low so it would be more work. But the wife wants a pickup.....

Bottom line is we all have to come up with methods of work that we like and work for us. I made lots of furniture before getting a track saw but I wish I hadn't waited. It is just easier for me. That is the only reason I make the comments I do. But I don't think everybody needs one and it is very possible you do not.

Jim

[Michael Zerance]

I use a Makita track saw. The dust collection is good enough to allow me to cut inside the house. I use it to cut cabinet bottoms where there is a high spot in the floor. It makes for a cleaner cut and less mess than using a jigsaw or sander. I also cut panels with it inside the house without any mess. It works perfectly for cutting down interior doors after a flooring installation.

I have a panel saw so I don't use it for breaking down sheet goods but it still has it's place in my shop. It is great for cutting angled cuts on sheet goods which would not be possible with a table saw or panel saw. As Jim mentioned, it is a good tool for the occasional cut that has to be made after assembly.

It makes for a clean edge on both sides of the panel, even with cross cuts in veneered plywood.

I have also used the track as a router guide when cleaning up the stacked edges on solid surface countertops.

It is just another tool in the arsenal that allows a woodworker to work a little faster, cleaner, and more precise.

[Van Huskey]

If I had the need, I certainly would have a track saw. I just don't have the need or space for that matter to use one. I would think they need to be kept out on a table to be used. It is a "toy" I would enjoy having. I'm getting too old and tired to horse 4X8 sheets of 3/4" plywood around anymore. I still have long bed pickup with a camper shell and a plastic plywood sheet carrier handle, but I would really have to need it to do it. If you live long enough you will be there too.:)

I am not trying to sell you on a TS but it absolutely doesn't need to be kept out on a table, in fact I have never seen anyone leave one out all the time. They were designed first as a site saw so setup/rollup and portability are super easy. The tracks don't weigh much at all, being aluminum, and the saw itself weighs less than some regular circular saws. Many people just cut on the floor or in the driveway on a sheet of rigid insulation. Pull the sheet off the truck/trailer onto the insulation, mark the sheet on both ends and lay the track on, no clamps needed. Short of a sliding table saw there is no easier, accurate, way to break down sheet goods and you still have to load the panels onto the slider. While there are other uses a tracksaw really does require the least brute strength and ignorance to
break down sheet goods.

[Ken Kortge]

One of the disadvantages of the circular saw with guide method is that the edge of the base is rarely parallel to the blade.

Really??!!! That is odd. That might explain why using homemade guides didn't work for me.

The good news is that Eurekazone.com's EZ Smart Base is positioned relative to the blade using break-away tabs. So the blade is perfectly parallel to the EZ Smart Track.

EZ Base Installation Video: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=gvmeqS90JtE

[lowell holmes]

Being parallel should be easy to check. I would guess if the edge is not parallel, the saw might have been dropped. I would think if all else fails, the edge could be filed to make it parallel.

I am older than many of you. Back in the 70's, I built some houses. Framers used "Skill Saws". That's what all circular saw were called. Skill introduced the first circular saw and they were bulletproof. Sadly, that's not the case anymore.

I had two carpenters that were working for me that built kitchen cabinets with circular saws.

I'm guessing what's working here is that today's woodworkers really don't have much experience with circular saws and also, the product has been cheapened.

[Andrew J. Coholic]

Been working in a well equipped shop all my life (im 46). Always had a 10' Euro slider and at least one other 10" cabinet saw in the shop.

I always thought a track saw was a novelty - until I got an older Festool 55 with an 8' and 4' track, in a lot of tools I purchased used, several years ago. I was going to sell off the track saw and tracks - but decided to try it out a few times.. and you know what? The saw is super handy in the shop (and of course off site) for some cuts that are either harder/time consuming to set up on the large slider, or on a big panel you dont want to haul to the saw.

One aspect I find the saw extremely handy for is for solid surface fabrication. With a sharp TCG blade, I can now fabricate the counters we do much easier/faster and with less mess. (Plus the same tracks are used with the router to do finished passes)

It is one of those tools that now I look back on and think - I really had no clue of how useful it really would be. And if I didnt get one by chance, I still wouldn't have thought it necessary, even with other's recommendations.

[Marshall Mosby]

Actually if you could manage to keep both, it is always good. It just works for people to do everything with a Tracksaw and so they don't bother keeping both.

[Allan Speers]

One aspect I find the saw extremely handy for is for solid surface fabrication. With a sharp TCG blade, I can now fabricate the counters we do much easier/faster and with less mess. (Plus the same tracks are used with the router to do finished passes) .

Yep. Using a router on a track is one huge but often overlooked benefit. It's much easier & much safer than using an edge guide. Also, you can have the bit spin "the wrong way" since the track holds the bit to the work, and this gives a better cut surface. You can also do dead-accurate inside plunge cuts, with stops at each end. I can't imagine doing THAT with any other method.


I use Eureakazone, FWIW, and prefer having my work raised up on those sacrificial supports. Using the more common "lay it on foam" method appears to give less dust in the air, but overall I MUCh prefer the EZ way, as you can also lay tools underneath, do more complex clamping, etc.

[Jon Endres]

I was an early adopter of the Eurekazone system. I think I bought mine in 2004 or 2005. I installed a Hitachi C7SB2 saw on the Eurekazone plate and it is still there, have never used it for anything else. I outfitted the saw with a new 60-tooth Freud finish blade, I'm on my second blade. All I have is two rails and connectors, and the saw base. I did have to return one of the rails when I discovered that it was bowed slightly, no questions asked I got a new rail. I sent back the old one for QC. I built all my kitchen cabinets, bathroom vanities, several pantry shelves and a bunch of shelves in my shed with it. It's still straight, still works fine, and pretty much every piece of sheet goods I've used in the past 12 years has been cut with it.

My only major complaint about the system is that the bottom of the Eurekazone track is smooth and slides around if you don't clamp it down. I imagine that some kind of high-friction tape would solve that problem and I could use it exactly the same way the newer dedicated saws work. As for frequency of use, there's no way I would give this up. It's accurate enough that with careful measurements, each cut is a finished cut. No need to break down and then trim to final size, which means no wasting materials. I have a very simple cutting grid, about 3' x 6', made of 1x3 pine and pocket screwed together, and it has survived these past 12 years as well. It's lightweight and hangs on the wall when not in use, and sits on a pair of folding sawhorses when I'm cutting.

One of the best tool investments I think I've made.