Cutting MDF

[Jerry Bruette]

Does it make much difference if I use a rip or crosscut blade for cutting MDF on the tablesaw?

[glenn bradley]

More teeth can cut cleaner where less teeth can cut faster.

[Bill McNiel]

Does it make much difference if I use a rip or crosscut blade for cutting MDF on the tablesaw?

Yes it does, I use either a 60T Combo or a 80T Plywood blade if the cut quality is important.

[Marshall Mosby]

Difference stems from the requirement specifications. If you want smoother surface, don't want to rush and are doing it across the grain ,go for crosscut. If on the other hand you want to get the job done faster and are going with grain, choose rip blade.

Otherwise, It doesn't matter much in my view.

[Robert Engel]

Why not just try it and see for yourself?

[Erik Loza]

....If you want smoother surface, don't want to rush and are doing it across the grain ,go for crosscut. If on the other hand you want to get the job done faster and are going with grain, choose rip blade...

MDF has a grain?

To the OP, as others have mentioned: An 60T or 80T ATB or TCT blade and get ready for the worst sawdust of your life.

Erik

[Jerry Bruette]

I was using a 60 tooth ATB earlier today to cut the MDF and then switched to my rip blade, to cut some flat bottomed grooves, and that's when the thought came to me that I could have possibly saved a blade change if I used the rip blade to cut the MDF to size.

I'll remember the advice in the future...if the edge doesn't show then use the rip blade.

Oh, I knew ahead of time about the dust and agree it's crazy.

[Ben Rivel]

Make sure to wear a respirator too! That dust is not good for you!

[Kevin Womer]

Make sure to wear a respirator too! That dust is not good for you!

Definately weak a mask, the dust is really fine compared to sawdust from real wood.

[John Lifer]

I cut a lot, yes use a relatively fine blade but don't use your best. Dulls them quick.

[Gerry Grzadzinski]

There's really no reason to use an 80 tooth blade for MDF.

[Simon MacGowen]

I use a 60T blade, but the most important tool for cutting MDF in my shop is the SawStop (with its overam dust collection and blade guard). Connected to a 1.5 HP dust collector, the blade guard keeps well over 95% (perhaps more?)of the MDF dust under control. I hardly see any dust on the table; the only exception is if I cut the MDF close to its edge. The SawStop dust guard works far better than the after-market overarm dust guard. Anyone planning to buy a SawStop must not skip that option, especially if you don't have the habit of wearing dust mask and do not have a good dust filtration system installed.

Simon

[Martin Wasner]

There's really no reason to use an 80 tooth blade for MDF.

Other than laziness, no. But, that's what I use is an 80 but I'm not going to change a tablesaw blade every time I have to cut mdf. I keep an 80 in one saw for sheet stock, and either a 36 or 40 in another court ripping solid. Usually the 40 is in the one, but if I'm doing a ton of ripping, I use the 36.

I don't know how many teeth are in the panel saw, but that's a different animal with a hollow tooth.

[Rich Engelhardt]

MDF dulls blades quick.
I use my "junk" blades for cutting MDF.

FWIW - I found that feed rate, more than tooth count, determines how smooth a cut is.
Each tooth count has a "sweet spot", so, I can't say exactly what rate is best for the blade you use - it's mostly trial and error.

[Grant Wilkinson]

I use inexpensive high tooth count circular saw blades in my table saw. They are very thin kerf, raise less dust and are cheap so I don't mind so much dulling them.