TS blade tilt issues

[Mike Trent]

I'm working with Dad's old Delta 34-444 10" contractor's TS circa 1995.


The crank handle that adjusts the blade tilt won't lock. After dialing in an angle, I'll tighten the locking knob, but the crank is still easily turned. I had hoped the angle of tilt would stay in place during a cut, but it ain't happening. Sequence of events:


Use Wexler clone to calibrate the blade to 45*


Turn TS on, and let run for a few seconds. Turn off, and recheck angle. All good so far, still reading 45*


Make cut. Recheck angle. Now we're off by 1* or more.


This may or may not be relevant: There's some slack in the angle adjustment mechanism. Doesn't bother me too much, but does make it more tedious to adjust the angle. Kind of like a an older car with loose steering. The manual says "loosen locknut and turn eccentric until all play is removed then tighten nut." I've attempted to do this, but it's not obvious to this feeble brain which way to turn things. In any case, none of my fiddling has made any difference in the lock knob problem.


See pic, and note the thin washers hanging on the shaft between the lock nut and the collar to the left.


I'd appreciate it if someone could point me in the right direction!
Mike

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On Tuesday, September 13, 2016, Mike Trent <mtrent123@gmail.com> wrote:

[Michelle Rich]

I have a 1986 model of this & when it gets light outside I will go look and see if I have those washers on mine..I sure don't believe I do..maybe someone jerry-rigged it? might be the source of your issue. the locking knob on the hand crank does not work on mine..never has, but my settings never change. hmmmmmm.....

[Jason Roehl]

It's a little hard to tell from the pic, but that washer looks like a lock washer and that it should be on the other side of that nut (above the washer in the pic).

[Clint Baxter]

Had a delta contractor saw before I upgraded to a cabinet saw. Pretty sure I remember seeing washer s hanging on that shaft like you show in your picture. Everything worked fine on the saw so never worried bout them. My saw was like Michelle described hers, knob didn't lock it securely, but the saw held the tilt setting without moving.

Good luck

Clint

[Lee Schierer]

The ring with the set screw is a locking collar. I believe that the locking collar should be moved toward the top of the photo so it contacts the nut. This will take the play out of your tilt. There probably were one or more washers between the worm and the casting and possibly a spring washer between the collar and the nut. These washers would maintain the position while leaving things loose enough to turn easily. Check out the parts diagram at e-replacements (http://www.ereplacementparts.com/delta-34444-type-contractors-saw-parts-c-3275_3334_14106.html) and you will see what I mean.

[Malcolm McLeod]

Sounds like you have two issues: Backlash in the gear and non-locking adjustment wheel. I think Lee's suggestion will help minimize backlash in the worm gear.

Expanding on Lee's adjustment, I believe there is, or should be, a second locking collar on the shaft's outboard end - but still located inside the saw housing. This outer collar should (I think) allow the locking knob to 'bind' the adjustment wheel against the housing - effectively pinching the wheel and housing between the knob and lock-collar. Adjust this outer collar out to get the lock knob to do it's job.

[Lee Schierer]

The parts diagram does in fact show two locking collars. I don't see anything that would lock the tilt mechanism in the parts diagram. If the worm shaft is held tightly so it can't move in and out of the saw housing, it probably won't move during use. The knob in the center of the hand wheel appears to be only to hold the hand wheel on the shaft.

[Mike Trent]

The locking knob on the hand crank does not work on mine..never has

Dang. Ditto here.


The ring with the set screw is a locking collar. I believe that the locking collar should be moved toward the top of the photo so it contacts the nut. This will take the play out of your tilt.

Agreed. Tried doing so today, but that collar is STUCK. Removed the hex locking screw, and the collar will move a bit left, and a bit right, but nowhere near the nut. I noticed a pretty good gouge in the shaft that was caused by the pointed end of the set screw as it journeyed from the lock nut to its present location.

At this point, the collar won't move left or right much, and won't rotate on the shaft either. I took a pair of pliers and was able to get the collar to rotate a bit. I stopped for the day, deciding I was having to use too much force, and didn't want to ruin anything. I thought that the shaft might have different diameters in different spots, thus causing the collar to be limited to a certain area, but a quick check with calipers dispelled that. I guess the collar could be out-of-round, which might explain why it wont rotate freely on the shaft.


Expanding on Lee's adjustment, I believe there is, or should be, a second locking collar on the shaft's outboard end - but still located inside the saw housing. This outer collar should (I think) allow the locking knob to 'bind' the adjustment wheel against the housing - effectively pinching the wheel and housing between the knob and lock-collar. Adjust this outer collar out to get the lock knob to do it's job.

Indeed there is an outer collar, just like the inner one mentioned above. As far as its adjustment making the lock knob functional again, I hope so; the manual certainly says "tighten knob when desired angle is set."


The parts diagram does in fact show two locking collars. I don't see anything that would lock the tilt mechanism in the parts diagram. If the worm shaft is held tightly so it can't move in and out of the saw housing, it probably won't move during use.

Hoping this is the case.

By the way, Lee, your sig prompted me to donate. Thanks to all who replied!
Mike

[Don Jarvie]

Do you have the manual? It should show you how to adjust this and how the locking collars are on the shaft.

It would probably be a good idea to take apart the saw and clean and lube everything.

[Lee Schierer]

Agreed. Tried doing so today, but that collar is STUCK. Removed the hex locking screw, and the collar will move a bit left, and a bit right, but nowhere near the nut. I noticed a pretty good gouge in the shaft that was caused by the pointed end of the set screw as it journeyed from the lock nut to its present location.

There may be two set screws in the locking collar. Double set screws are sometimes used to prevent vibration loosening. Set screws can also make indentations in the shaft which makes the locking collar hard to relocate.

[Mike Trent]

There may be two set screws in the locking collar. Double set screws are sometimes used to prevent vibration loosening. Set screws can also make indentations in the shaft which makes the locking collar hard to relocate.

No 2nd screw. Turns out that the gouge made by the sliding set screw left a raised burr at the end of the screw's travel to the left. A bit of filing removed the offending burr, and the collar then moved freely. I adjusted the eccentric, tightened the lock nut, put the collar against the nut and tightened it.

Adjusted blade to desired angle, made a cut, and checked blade angle again. No change!

Case closed. Thanks to all who replied!
Mike