Danish Oil in large quantities/soaking

[Roger Chandler]

Thought I would draw upon the expertise here in this turning community and see if anyone knows where one could purchase danish oil finish in quantity........say 5 gal bucket? I am thinking about immersing a large bowl, actually what will be a nested set into danish oil to soak into the wood overnight, remove next day and let dry. Then probably buff. I am wanting good penetration, thus soaking overnight.

Anyone know where to purchase quantities of danish oil. I know some state limit the amount one can purchase, as the claim VOC's have to be limited, but they allow you to purchase as many quart sizes as you wish. :confused: [learned that from Highland Hardware's website]

Anyone use the soak and buff method with danish oil?

[Prashun Patel]

If you want that much, the cheaper way would be to make your own.

1 gallon any ob varnish, 1 gallon boiled linseed oil, 1 gallon mineral spirits.

Beware of bleed back if you soak this long.

[Roger Chandler]

If you want that much, the cheaper way would be to make your own.

1 gallon any ob varnish, 1 gallon boiled linseed oil, 1 gallon mineral spirits. "OB varnish" ? not familiar with that terminology. edit.........sorry, I guess you mean oil based, correct?

[Wes Ramsey]

I wondered the same thing a couple of years ago and someone here turned me onto making my own. A good recipe to start with is one part each of mineral spirits, poly (I use gloss), boiled linseed oil. Look around on the google a bit and you'll see that some recommend a non-urethane varnish, some recommend adding a drying agent, and some use plain linseed oil. Everyone has their preferred recipe, but they all do pretty much the same thing MUCH CHEAPER than buying pre-mixed DO.

I haven't used the soak method. I use it more on flat work, but on turned work I usually do a quick flood and wipe of DO to add some depth to the grain and finish with something else.

[Prashun Patel]

yup. Oil Based Varnish.

I also don't believe the ratio or brand of varnish is that critical.

[Marvin Hasenak]

If making your own, make 2 batches, the one for the initial soak add more mineral spirits to the mix. It will help the finish to soak in faster. This is one of my finishes I use on special items, https://www.firearmsforum.com/firearms/article/3037 His explanation explains the extra mineral spirits. Once you seal it, and let that dry there is no point in soaking it again. I also don't soak it overnight, I only soak for about 30 minutes.

[Doug Ladendorf]

Beware of bleed back if you soak this long.

just want to +1 this so it isn't lost. If you soak it long you will probably need to wipe up the bleeding oil for a while and let it dry without any additional finish longer.

[Thomas Canfield]

I would also state that you should use a "gloss" varnish in your mix. A satin varnish has added material to give the dull finish and can never be removed to put back to gloss with light penetration through the finish. I have not used a long soak, but seen the process outlined by some HI turners that use a partial filled barrel with lid and weight down the piece overnight or even longer, set on wire rack in barrel to drip, and then wipe dry. The soak finish is then allowed to dry before adding additional coats as wet wipe on, 5 or 10 minute soak, and then wipe dry. They get fabulous finishes, but I do not have facility for a barrel and stay with wet wipe on application method.

[allen thunem]

an added question in regards to this.
would using a pressure pot be of any benefit?? or a vacuum chamber??
providing of course you have one of ample size.

[Jamie Straw]

an added question in regards to this.
would using a pressure pot be of any benefit?? or a vacuum chamber??
providing of course you have one of ample size.
I would expect any attempt to force the finish into the wood will increase the problem of bleeding (called "bleed back" in earlier posts. Not a fun thing to cope with.

[Reed Gray]

Well, I have never done it myself. Ron Kent of Hawaii used this for his Norfolk Island Pine pieces, and I think he used repeated soakings, and the pieces were very thin turned. I did see one piece from a former club member who put a piece of Big Leaf Maple burl in a vacuum pot with the finish, it was turned thin, and was very heavy. If you have anything over about 1/8 inch thick, it may not penetrate all the way, but who knows for sure. This is where I would consider the vacuum pot. No idea on how much bleed out you will get, and it would probably take weeks to air out and cure... Yes, dry to touch, usually in a day or so, cured in a week or so, but off gassing for up to a month.

robo hippy

[Marvin Hasenak]

an added question in regards to this.
would using a pressure pot be of any benefit?? or a vacuum chamber??
providing of course you have one of ample size.

I tried it, I make game calls so they are small and the wood is not that thick when finally turned. I would pull a vacuum for overnight, then pressure for overnight. Remove and drain, wipe down and put on a rack, repeat the wipe down a few more times. I gave that up, it wasn't worth the time in labor. Now I throw them in a gallon bucket, let sit for a couple of hours, drain, wipe and put on the rack, and about an hour later wipe again. 48 hours later they are usually dried enough to give a second coat, but I usually wait a week, then start the 3 other coats, with 48 hours between coats. One screw up in the process and I could have 48 or 72 game calls to throw away.

[Mike Nathal]

American Woodturner Dec 2012 issue has an article on vacuum infiltration of Tung oil

[Wes Ramsey]

For what it's worth, I saw Watco DO in my latest Highland Woodworking catalog - $36/gal. Forgot how expensive that stuff is.