Lee Valley Small Plow Plane User's Group

[lowell holmes]

There must be one, if not there should be.

I used my new plane on a scrap of lumber. It was interesting.

First off, there is no sole, so the iron and skate are the sole. The depth is controlled by the side mounted depth stop. It makes for interesting dynamics.

:) I knew all of this, but never thought much about it.

I can see that I will have to experiment before I use the plane seriously. I have an old woody plow plane and it feels completely different than the Lee Valley.
Don't get me wrong, I am enthusiastic about the plane, but I'm just saying it is a different animal from other planes I have used.
There is a side mounted depth stop for use on controlling the depth of the cut. Getting fine shavings is going to require new techique.

Have you LV plow plane owners experienced this?

Less you think I'm complaining, I'm not. I'm just commenting. It is a different animal, a better animal but never the less different.

[lowell holmes]

[QUOTE=lowell holmes;

quote(First off, there is no sole, so the iron and skate are the sole. The depth is controlled by the side mounted depth stop. It makes for interesting dynamics.)quote

Well, I went back and played with the plane again. I now realize that the skate functions as the sole for setting iron cutting depth. I can get transparent shavings with it now.

I do expect there will be more than a few adjustments to be learned about, but since no one has written about them (to my knowledge) we have to figure it out for ourselves.
After all, it is a new toy. So, I''ll play with it.

[Charles Bjorgen]

Lowell -- I'd suggest you try to make something with this tool. I went through the same experimental cuts you've been trying but it wasn't until I made a couple sharpening stone boxes that I achieved some real understanding of this tool. The boxes aren't great (no pix offered) but I learned something. My next project will be a storage box for the LV Plow Plane and I hope my early experiences will make this project more successful. As an aside, it was also my first use of hide glue. That was highly successful.

[Gary Cunningham]

In for the knowledge. I want one.

[lowell holmes]

Charles -- There is a box coming. I agree with you.

I made a couple of slots today to just familiarize myself with the tool.

I was working out sharpening and adjustments, so that I will know what to do. I'm pleased with the plow plane.
I will like it more as I understand it. Earlier today, I was confused about getting translucent shavings. Now, I know how to
adjust the plane to get them.

I'm excited to have the

[Patrick Chase]

There must be one, if not there should be.

I used my new plane on a scrap of lumber. It was interesting.

First off, there is no sole, so the iron and skate are the sole. The depth is controlled by the side mounted depth stop. It makes for interesting dynamics.

:) I knew all of this, but never thought much about it.

I can see that I will have to experiment before I use the plane seriously. I have an old woody plow plane and it feels completely different than the Lee Valley.
Don't get me wrong, I am enthusiastic about the plane, but I'm just saying it is a different animal from other planes I have used.
There is a side mounted depth stop for use on controlling the depth of the cut. Getting fine shavings is going to require new techique.

Have you LV plow plane owners experienced this?

Less you think I'm complaining, I'm not. I'm just commenting. It is a different animal, a better animal but never the less different.

You might want to build a taller wooden auxiliary fence to screw to the one that comes with it. The metal fence is fairly short and it takes some attention to avoid tilting the plane. A tall aux fence solves that problem when the work is tall enough to allow it (for short work you have to remove the aux fence and just use the metal one).

I love my plow, though it does take some practice to figure out all of the ins and outs.

[Derek Cohen]

Lowell, add a subfence before you go on. It add greatly to control and accuracy.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Planes/LV%20planes/Small%20Plow/1a_zpsjpz3cpyd.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jim Koepke]

Lowell,

There are a few old threads about using the Stanley #45 which is a similar type of plane. Some things to be considered are possibly taking a practice stroke over the full length of the work. In a situation like Derek's picture, if you have your left hand supporting the fence it would be possible to bang your knuckles on the vise's chop. There is a sweet spot for shaving thickness. Thin shavings will take a long time. Thick shavings will be more likely to leave some tear out. On the Stanley #45 it is very easy to get the skate/rail/sole out of parallel with the fence. This will cause binding in the cut. I do not know of yet if this has been eliminated by the LV plow.

I am somewhere on the list of folks who were going to get a chance to use and review this plane. It seems someone on the list may have dropped the ball. My last email to them was not answered. Rob Lee did send me an email, but so much has happened since... In a couple of weeks I will under go surgery which will put me out of commission for a month or two.

jtk

[John Schtrumpf]

Lowell, add a subfence before you go on. It add greatly to control and accuracy.
Derek
And don't forget to duplicate the "rabbeting pocket" from the metal fence to your wooden fence (see the instructions: http://www.leevalley.com/US/html/05p5801ie.pdf ).

[Rich Riddle]

It sounds like a therapy group. Perhaps all of you can merit a group rate.

[Reinis Kanders]

It is a very neat plane. I actually have two, one setup with the extra support for tongue or wider blades. Plane is pretty straightforward, key thing is to apply sideways pressure on the fence and forward pressure om the handle. Once you resist temptation to push with the fence you should be all set, same goes for the LV rabbet planes. I also pre-score the groves with a marking gauge if going against the grain.

[Mark AJ Allen]

I learned a few things the other day using it.

1. Why there is a left handed version: it's not JUST for left handed people.
2. I needs the bigger fence if you're using the beading irons

[Darrell LaRue]

Speaking as a plane user here.

I have lots of plows from old wedge arm plows, to screw arm plows, Stanley and Record iron plows, even a Stanley 46 (skew ironed plow). Transparent shavings are for fun, but if you want to build something, you take nice thick shavings to get it done in a few strokes instead of all day. Maybe the first few passes are light, to get below the surface without tearout, but after that I crank it up and take as thick a shaving as I can.

I found that for hard woods like oak and ash, the Stanley 45 is my favourite. And if the job is only for a narrow little groove the O43 is awesome. Smaller than the LV Small plow I think.

Darrell
who will be gettin back into the groove, making a till for a tool chest

[lowell holmes]

I agree with you Darrell. I'm having fun with my new toy.

[Noel Poore]

Yes, the LV small plow plane makes me smile every single time I use it. I too discovered that an auxiliary fence is especially helpful when cutting beads.

[Derek Cohen]

And don't forget to duplicate the "rabbeting pocket" from the metal fence to your wooden fence (see the instructions: http://www.leevalley.com/US/html/05p5801ie.pdf ).

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Planes/LV%20planes/Small%20Plow/Plough-fence_zpsrymhiaoo.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Derek Cohen]

With a subfence like this ..

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/SlidingDovetailsWithTheSmallPlow_html_m44f24c54.jp g


.. and the addition of a skew blade from the Stanley #46 ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/SlidingDovetailsWithTheSmallPlow_html_20e67e57.jpg



.. along with an angled depth stop to match the skew (mine is 1:6) ..

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/SlidingDovetailsWithTheSmallPlow_html_7fe8c9b5.jpg

... you can plough sliding dovetails, like this ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/SlidingDovetailsWithTheSmallPlow_html_m5c098387.jp g

Link: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/SlidingDovetailsWithTheSmallPlow.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Don Slaughter]

Thanks for starting this conversation, Lowell. First thing I did when I got mine 2 yrs ago was make a box for it..then one for each of my other specialty planes. Next on the learning curve was tongue & groove for cabinet back. It is really a joy to use...I had trouble with the depth stop when I first got it....I think it was operator error (as Derek pointed out) pressing too hard down instead of forward.....but Rob heard the problem and LV fixed it for me and everyone.....Great Company!. For a long time (Duh) I waited for LN to fulfill their promise of producing a plow but glad I opted for this one. I try to make time between projects to just find more & better ways to use it...I did make a really nice auxiliary fence for it and, after seeing Derek's photo, I may make another one. The auxiliary did help with the tongue & grove.
Good luck

[Patrick Chase]

It is a very neat plane. I actually have two, one setup with the extra support for tongue or wider blades.

Yeah, the second skate is a bit of a pain to attach and remove, and it would certainly be more convenient to dedicate a second plane to that. I'm holding off until I see their new combo plane, though.


I learned a few things the other day using it.

1. Why there is a left handed version: it's not JUST for left handed people.

This is true, but at least for me that didn't become a noteworthy concern until they added beading. Prior to that I almost never cut cosmetic surfaces with the plow plane, and so a little bit of tearout here or there wasn't a big deal and didn't justify the addition of an LH plane to optimize direction. That all changed with beading, though. As with the second skate I'm going to hold off until I see the combo, as I suspect that will end up cutting most cosmetic surfaces that I now do with the plow. In the mean time I'll continue to use a scratch stock if I can't bead something cleanly with the plow.

I do have LH+RH pairs of both the skew rabbet and the skew block, though.

[Patrick Chase]

With a subfence like this ..

[angled subfence]

.. and the addition of a skew blade from the Stanley #46 ...

.. along with an angled depth stop to match the skew (mine is 1:6) ..

... you can plough sliding dovetails, like this ...


Oooh, that's a neat trick. Somehow I'd missed that when I read through your reviews before buying mine. Thanks for [re-]posting.

[steven c newman]

IIRC the #45 is BOTH left and right handed. merely install the fence on the right side. Might be I'm using mine wrong?
343809
Dado and groove..
343810
Have to be careful here, these tend to wag a bit..
343811
Smallest bead I tried to mill....I suppose I could put the fence on the right side, and go along from the other direction...

[Patrick Chase]

IIRC the #45 is BOTH left and right handed. merely install the fence on the right side. Might be I'm using mine wrong?

I don't have experience with the 45, but the Veritas has moderate usability issues with the fence reversed. The biggest is that you can't bring the fence in close because of protruding knobs. That can be compensated by using a thick auxiliary fence of course, though that introduces its own complications. In addition the depth stop becomes more difficult to use, both because you'll want to remove it so that its knob doesn't block the fence, and because it's on the "wrong" side of the plane. Finally, the dual-skate (wide blade) configuration is somewhat clunky in that configuration IMO.

[Derek Cohen]

Another jig for the plough is a sticking board. This will help in ploughing grooves in drawer parts by placing the end close to the side of the bench ...

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Joints/Dovetailing%20aids/Sticking-Board_zpsswcdgdlx.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

[steven c newman]

The 45 has depth stops on both sides. Spurs on both sides.
Jig like Dereks?
343817
IF the board is wide, like for a box's side, or..
343818
Then there was the matter of narrow stuff, like a lid
343819
Oh, and check alignment..
343820
That short board?
343821
Set up on the 45?
343822
Nothing to it..

[Matt Lau]

Many thanks, Derek!

On a side note, your website/blog was probably one of the biggest reasons I turned neander.
You make everything look effortless, and well executed...even fun.
Only after grunting and swearing at a block of Spanish cedar, did I find that you're just superman.

Maybe it's an Australian thing?

Derek Cohen, HNT Gordon, Chris Vesper, Jack Churchhill, and Jur from the bike forums.
You might have all become supermen, since the land's trying to kill you.

-Matt

on a side note, do you have any recommendations regarding constructing an auxillary fence?
I'm tempted to get a ukulele fretboard and screw it on. Alternatively, I may bring my plane to McBeath's and pick out a spare piece of rosewood--or just use some salvaged mahogany on hand.

[Derek Cohen]

Matt, I will confirm that I am indeed Superman. Please do not let Lex Luther know this. :)

It only looks easy as I edit out the hard bits.

For fences such as these, I just find a piece of scrap hardwood that looks straight grained and, ideally, quartersawn. I use Jarrah because I have it. Use whatever is available. Oil it and keep it waxed. Wax the metal bearing parts of the plough as well. You will not believe what a difference this makes.

Regards from Perth

Derek