Bosch chop saw - a lemon or an ugly duckling?

[Mark Gibney]

I have a real problem with my 12" Bosch chop saw (Bosch CM12). The latest problem is that it leaves a crown on the boards.

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When I wiggle the blade as in the next photo it feels like there is some play at the arbor (the arbor bolt is tight).

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I changed to a different blade and I get the same crown on the cut.

This isn't my first problem with this saw. I bought as simple a saw as I could so it would be less likely to go out of alignment, I want it for simple cross-cutting long pieces. I have babied this saw, it has not been dragged around construction sites.

Is there a fix for this? or is this a piece of colorful scrap metal?

And is there a make and model of chop saw that is generally regarded as the best out there (not the Festool, not in my budget). Thanks, Mark

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Mark, it sounds like the bearings have been worn and allowing the arbor shaft to move while making the cut and thus the blade moves too. If you liked the saw when it was working well, it might be worthwhile to remove the motor, remove the bearings and replace them. Typically almost all bearings have a number stamped on them. Even if they don't have a number stamped on them, a good bearing supply house have personnel capable of measuring your existing bearing and recommending a suitable replacement. You can take them to a good bearing company where they often will have replacements in stock or can order them. Like all things, there are different qualities of bearings available. Good luck!

[Andrew Hughes]

I just think a chop saw is not a good choice for plunging down into the face of plywood or wood.A SMC does a better job.
Im not just saying it because I have a Bosch glide.
Its because I have done both kinds of cut.
The blade you useing looks thin so that doesn't help.
I checked my glide saws blade and there is no play but it's not a chopper.
How does it cut 45s on crown molding?

Aj

[Mike Henderson]

I had the Bosch 12" miter saw and really liked it. It was good and accurate for me. The only reason I bought a new miter saw is that I wanted more crosscut length so I got a sliding CMS. I bought a 10" SCMS and wish I had gotten a 12" SCMS.

Mike

[Curt Harms]

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When I wiggle the blade as in the next photo it feels like there is some play at the arbor (the arbor bolt is tight).
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It shouldn't do that. If it were me I'd do what Ken suggests - replace the bearings. You could also try a full kerf blade designed for miter saws - zero or negative hook IIRC.

[Gerry Grzadzinski]

I think a higher quality blade will make a big difference.
Good blades don't have painted teeth.

[Rich Riddle]

If you feel play through the blade, do as Ken suggested and change bearings. People make far more out of changing motor bearings that it actually entails.

[Martin Wasner]

And is there a make and model of chop saw that is generally regarded as the best out there (not the Festool, not in my budget). Thanks, Mark

Look for a used OMGA mec 300st. Great saws, the usually go for about $500 used. Don't expect to carry it anywhere, it's about 150#

[Eric Schmid]

Before you dig into the saw, check that the blade is seating properly. Often blade wobble is due to an issue with the flanges that secure the blade and not with the bearings. If the flanges are out of flat or have a burr, this could cause wobble. I have 10 year old and 25 year old miter saws that have never had the arbor bearings replaced. Both have been heavily used in a professional environment. Neither are Bosch saws, however. It could end up being bearings or other internal problem, but I would start with the easy stuff.

Although not inexpensive, quality blades do go a long way toward smoothing things out. I prefer a full kerf crosscut blade myself. If you know anyone who could lend you one to try out...I think you'll find they make a big difference, especially on bevel cuts.

[Mark Gibney]

Thank you all for the advice. I'll get a decent crosscut blade, try it out, and if there is still an issue I'll change the bearings.