Wooden plane fabrication

[Normand Leblanc]

I just completed fabricating my first wooden plane. This was a test to see if I could made one that would work properly and I used the wood that I had in the shop. For the blade ass'y I used a typical Stanley iron/capiron/lever cap, we'll see if that's any good.

Anyway, because this plane seems to works very well, I'd like to build a few more. My questions would be:
- What kind of wood should I use for the body
- Same question for the handle.
- Anything special that I should know.
343335343336

Normand

[Oskar Sedell]

nice shavings! looks like it works just like it should!

[Pat Barry]

I just completed fabricating my first wooden plane. This was a test to see if I could made one that would work properly and I used the wood that I had in the shop. For the blade ass'y I used a typical Stanley iron/capiron/lever cap, we'll see if that's any good.

Anyway, because this plane seems to works very well, I'd like to build a few more. My questions would be:
- What kind of wood should I use for the body
- Same question for the handle.
- Anything special that I should know.
343335343336

Normand
Seriously? You show us some perfect endgrain shavings then ask for advice? Keep doing what you are doing.

[Jim Belair]

Is that maple you used Normand? It looks great! I love the razee style, but realize I don't own any for some reason (gotta fix that :rolleyes:)

But you have to change out that Robertson screw holding the lever cap.

[James Pallas]

Nice work Normand. It appears you should be telling others how to build a working plane.
Jim

[Normand Leblanc]

I've used yellow birch. The handle is cherry.

My concern is that the wood will move with humidity. I'm sure there is some guidelines for this but I don't know where to find them. Someone here must be a pro regarding wooden planes.

[Pat Barry]

I suspect there might be a couple folks here that fit the criteria.

[Patrick Chase]

I've used yellow birch. The handle is cherry.

My concern is that the wood will move with humidity. I'm sure there is some guidelines for this but I don't know where to find them. Someone here must be a pro regarding wooden planes.

Very nicely done!

Yellow Birch is also my "goto wood" when I want a reasonably hard/dense wood (not something ridiculously soft like Poplar) to try something out. Like you I'd be concerned about stability, though.

[Dave Beauchesne]

But you have to change out that Robertson screw holding the lever cap.

What is wrong with the Robertson screw?? We Canucks invented them and love them.

Normand:
Wonderful! The rest will chime in about the Birch.

Dave B

[Stewie Simpson]

Normand, allowing for a worse case scenario of 6% change in moisture content.

No allowances were configured for the laminated construction of your plane.

The amount of shrinkage calculated is:
0.0611 inches
or:
0 1/16 inches
(rounded to nearest 1/32 inch)

The information you entered was:
Width: 3 inches
Initial Moisture Content: 10%
Final Moisture Content: 16%
The type of lumber you chose was: Flat Sawn

The Shrinkage Percentage Value used for
the species you chose (Birch, Yellow) was: 9.5%

http://www.woodweb.com/cgi-bin/calculators/calc.pl?calculator=shrinkage

http://workshopcompanion.com/KnowHow/Design/Nature_of_Wood/2_Wood_Movement/2_Wood_Movement.htm

[Normand Leblanc]

Thanks Stewie,

I have the feeling that I'll be running into trouble. On purpose I've fit the blade very, very tight. The room left (total both sides of the blade) is around 1/64" and it's the humid summer here. When winter comes... We're learning everyday it seems.

[Mark Gibney]

Normand, I don't know what wood you should make your next plane from, someone else will have to tell you that.

What I do know is that you should get that prototype out of your house asap, it just doesn't reflect well on you. PM me your address and I'll send you $5 to cover shipping the plane to me.

[Patrick Chase]

Normand, allowing for a worse case scenario of 6% change in moisture content.

[snip]

Initial Moisture Content: 10%
Final Moisture Content: 16%

Stewie is absolutely right. If anything these moisture contents represent more of a nominal range than a worst case, because they correspond to equilibria at ~55% and ~85% relative humidity.

Given the sort of climate variations you describe I'd budget for a wider range (and more shrink) than that.

Stewie, out of curiosity are you somewhere near the northern periphery of Australia?

[george wilson]

How are you holding the plane iron in? I hope it is not being held in by just the "Robertson screw" going into the wood,or the iron fitting snugly against the sides of the escapement. Is your lever cap cracked at the top where the lever pivot is?

[Kees Heiden]

I don't think that single screw is a problem. My antique Ulmia has a similar system, though it uses a slotted screw of course.

[Normand Leblanc]

George,
Yes it's hold by the screw but it's only a test. If it doesn't hold, the next one will have a wedge. I used an old lever cap that was previously cracked near the pivot.

Kees,
What do you mean by a "slotted screw"?

Normand

[Stewie Simpson]

Normand; I am pretty sure that the Ulmia's are fitted with just a single slotted screw. Nothing high tech.

http://www.holzwerken.de/museum/hersteller/ulmia.phtml

If you click on this image within the above attachment you can enlarge it for closer inspection.

http://www.holzwerken.de/museum/hersteller/ulmia_anzeige_1909.jpg

[george wilson]

a slotted screw just has a slot for an old fashioned flat blade screwdriver to fit into. it looks better on vintage style projects,like your wooden plane. also,unplated screws look a lot better than zinc or cadmium plated screws. to remove the plating,if you can't find unplated screws,take some muriatic acid in a cup. put the plated screws into the acid. after a very short time the acid will stop bubbling because the plating has been eaten off. i heat the screws i have just unplated with a mapp gas torch. it drives off the remaining hydrochloric acid,which is very hard to get rid of. failing that,soak the screws in a baking soda and water bath for a few hours,then oil them. I warn you that the screws may STILL rust. I promise that the acid is VERY hard to kill. Heating is by far the best way to get rid of it.

I don't use that low temp. 400º solder that you can buy. It comes with a small bottle of flux,which contains HCL. I used it once to hold some parts of a flintlock lock I was making,so that I could more easily drill holes into the lock plate. I boiled and BOILED the parts REPEATEDLY several times in baking soda,and the parts STILL would get rusty. Amazing how HCL hangs on. It is the most stubborn acid to get rid of.

This was mostly typed with one hand while eating something,hence no capitals!

[Patrick Chase]

a slotted screw just has a slot for an old fashioned flat blade screwdriver to fit into. it looks better on vintage style projects,like your wooden plane. also,unplated screws look a lot better than zinc or cadmium plated screws. to remove the plating,if you can't find unplated screws,take some muriatic acid in a cup. put the plated screws into the acid. after a very short time the acid will stop bubbling because the plating has been eaten off. i heat the screws i have just unplated with a mapp gas torch. it drives off the remaining hydrochloric acid,which is very hard to get rid of. failing that,soak the screws in a baking soda and water bath for a few hours,then oil them. I warn you that the screws may STILL rust. I promise that the acid is VERY hard to kill. Heating is by far the best way to get rid of it.

Make extra sure to huff the vapors when you heat HCl (not!).

Seriously, gaseous-phase hydrochloric acid is nasty stuff. I wouldn't go at it with a torch without protective gear, as stuff like that can do lasting damage to your respiratory system.

EDIT: To put this in context, I'd be more concerned about exposure to gaseous HCl than to basically any of the substances we discussed in the honing oil thread, and I say this as someone who used high-concentration acids (mostly muriatic and sulfuric) all the time in assorted former hobbies. I think you can use it (and heat it) safely, but only with proper respect, knowledge, and protection.

[Jim Koepke]

Impressive looking and working plane. Good job.


Thanks Stewie,

I have the feeling that I'll be running into trouble. On purpose I've fit the blade very, very tight. The room left (total both sides of the blade) is around 1/64" and it's the humid summer here. When winter comes... We're learning everyday it seems.

You might consider removing the blade when the plane isn't being used.

If need be you could likely grind a little off of each side of the blade.

jtk

[Normand Leblanc]

You might consider removing the blade when the plane isn't being used.

If need be you could likely grind a little off of each side of the blade.

You're right Jim, this is what I'm going to do when winter comes.

Normand

[Normand Leblanc]

I'm starting to like making those planes. I've now made a smoother, coffin style.
.343974
This type of construction is quite a bit more difficult than the first one I've made. The only problem left is the shaving are sometimes clogging the mouth. It's another test just to see if I could get a good user plane so it's made of sugar maple with a cherry wedge. I've documented its fabrication on my blog for those interested in the process. No video, only images.
http://ancienscopeaux.ca/en/part-2-a-smoothing-plane/

My next one will be a jointer plane with a wedge.

Normand

[Stewie Simpson]

Normand; plane making is indeed an addictive craft. Looks like your well on your way to succeeding. Enjoyed reading your blog entry that detailed the steps you followed.

regards Stewie;

[Kees Heiden]

Clogging often happens at the tips of the wedge fingers. Make sure they press against the outside of the wedge pocket and that they don't stick out too far, beyond the bulge of the capiron. It also helps to camber the edge so you are not cutting all the way to the corners. We had a lengthy debate this winter about the angle of the wear and the shape of the capiron.

[Patrick Chase]

I'm starting to like making those planes. I've now made a smoother, coffin style.
.343974
This type of construction is quite a bit more difficult than the first one I've made. The only problem left is the shaving are sometimes clogging the mouth. It's another test just to see if I could get a good user plane so it's made of sugar maple with a cherry wedge. I've documented its fabrication on my blog for those interested in the process. No video, only images.
http://ancienscopeaux.ca/en/part-2-a-smoothing-plane/

My next one will be a jointer plane with a wedge.

Normand

Oooh, very nice!

A question: The "square-ended chisels" here are functioning as scrapers, right? Did you do anything special with the tip, or is it just a smooth 90-deg edge?

I've seen people do similar things to block plane blades to make small scraper planes, but that's the first time I've seen it done with a chisel. I may have to try that with one of my "beater chisels" :-).

[Normand Leblanc]

Thanks Kees, I'll check that.

Patrick,
My friend sent me a link and I just followed what this man was doing. Go down to item 10. Yes, it's working like a scraper.
http://www.billcarterwoodworkingplanemaker.co.uk/12.html

Since then I've squared up a few turning chisels. They are much longer and it seems to help with control.

Normand

[Steve Voigt]

Looks good for a first effort, Norman.

Following on from what Kees said, it looks like the tips of your wedge are not flush with the abutments--they (the wedge tips) are an 1/8" or so too long. If you trim them back so that they match the abutments, that should help with the clogging. The angle of the wedge tips is also too blunt. Next time, make the wear a little higher; then you can taper the ends of the abutments a little more gradually, and do the ends of the wedge to match.

[Steve Voigt]

Re the blunt chisel scraper technique, I have never done the hardening-and-not-tempering that Bill describes; I just put an 80-85-ish microbevel on a beater chisel and hone it on my oilstones. I think Bill likes the super-hard chisel because a he scrapes non-ferrous metals and nasty exotics.

[Normand Leblanc]

Hi Steve,
Looks like Kees and you had it right. My wedge is too narrow so I'll have to make another one. I've trimmed what you have described and it's already better.

As for the blunt chisel technique, I will try your technique and see. Thanks for the tips.

Normand

[Frederick Skelly]

Seriously? You show us some perfect endgrain shavings then ask for advice? Keep doing what you are doing.

+1. Pat said it better than I would have.

Well done, Normand!