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Chris Lukowski
08-31-2016, 5:57 AM
Hi Everybody,

I need some advise on a project I’m working my way up to, a nursery dresser that I will probably build with walnut boards & walnut ply for the carcass. One thing I’m having a hard time with is deciding how to finish it. Here are the properties I’m after:


1) Smooth, non-sticky surface without wood grain texture, like you would find at a furniture store
2) Enough film for protection and smoothness but not so much that it looks like the wood itself is “behind” the finish
3) Satin or semigloss finish. I don’t want it to have a high gloss plastic look that you see on restaurant tables, but not so matte that it looks like a weathered antique. Again, a “new from the store” kind of look.
4) I want a uniform dark finish that doesn’t vary much from dark to light spots, but still shows the grain and color of the walnut. A little warmth perhaps, but nothing that looks “yellow”. More of a deep brown but not as dark as the espresso stained wood that’s popular now.
5) Durable enough to withstand the variety of liquids that a nursery/changing table is likely to come in contact with.


Limitations: This will be assembled in a smallish town house basement with little to no ventilation and subsequently placed in a nursery. I want to avoid finishing products with high VOCs, high odor, and flammable vapor (especially given the close proximity of the gas water heater near my work area), so I’d like to stick to non-oil based products if at all possible (though I’m not sure how products like shellac fit into the mix). I’m also a very green newbie so finicky products requiring an experienced hand aren’t preferable.


Attached below is an example of the kind of finish I’m after, with the color being a touch lighter than what I’m going for:
343274

The site the image came from says the piece was finished with lacquer and I’m pretty sure that’s not going to work for me due to the reasons I mentioned above. Is something like this possible with a water based poly, like General Finish’s clear High Performance (colored with a stain or dye) or just using their amber tinted Enduro-Var? One last thing, I asked this on another forum and the majority of responses said I should forget about waterborne poly altogether and just use shellac, although I'm not sure how well that will hold up with the wear and tear a piece like this is likely to be put through. What do you think?

Frederick Skelly
08-31-2016, 6:25 AM
I like shellac. It's easy to apply, dries quickly, looks nice and is easily repaired. It will not stand up well against a damp glass left on top, but you can put a coat of oil-based poly on just the top to help with that. I am still trying to get the hang of water-based poly - it can be a little finicky.

Fred

Prashun Patel
08-31-2016, 8:07 AM
I would use an oil-based wiping varnish. Minwax Wipe on poly is about the easiest and lowest odor of the readily available oil based varnishes out there. It's not the best choice for a high build or where moderate abuse is expected.

You may find this helpful:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?238200-Praise-for-Wipe-on-Poly

Beware of finishing in your basement. If you can swing it, finish in your garage or in your driveway on a rolling cart. I try not to finish large items in the basement.

Chris Lukowski
08-31-2016, 9:08 AM
As far as oil based wipe-on blends go, do you think Sam Maloof finishes are a good option? The results look great, but I'm not sure how durable the protection is or how safe it would be to work with in my environment.

Also, has anybody used Enduro-Var? It seems like it has the tinting that many say helps the look of walnut and it's a WB finish. Although now I'm wondering, do I have any choice but an oil based topcoat (applied outside which would be a royal PITA) if I want it to withstand a potentially messy nursery environment? Do water based topcoats stand a chance?

Prashun Patel
08-31-2016, 9:13 AM
You can use waterbased products if you wish. They tend to dry fast, so I would not wipe them; I would brush them. You should PM John Ten Eyk. He has a lot of experience and opinions on Endurovar and similar finishes.

I brushed Enduro Clear Poly on test pieces before and found that it builds quickly and looks a little plasticky. But that's ONE small test. I have sprayed Enduro Clear Poly several times and do love it. I find it to be reasonably durable.

Wayne Lomman
08-31-2016, 9:32 AM
Chris, if you want simple and tough, use a water borne floor finish. Here is Australia that would be a Cabot's product but there will be plenty of options where you are.. It is low odour, dries in a couple of hours, and you easily apply it with a brush and it will self level beautifully. Being a flooring product, it is resistant to all the usual suspects. I have used it on work benches and desks made in a hurry and polished with what I grabbed out of the cupboard first and they are still good years later. If you are building out of walnut, why stain? Cheers

Jim Becker
08-31-2016, 9:38 AM
Even if you use water borne products for the majority of the finish, you'll still want to use something to add some "amber" to the walnut or it's going to look "really blah"...straight water borne tends to be colorless or blue-leaning and really doesn't look good on walnut, IMHO. I pretty much always oil with low VOC BLO (Tried and True), seal with de-waxed shellac and then apply water borne for my clear coats.

glenn bradley
08-31-2016, 10:01 AM
Jim's got it IMHO. The only addition I would make is that you may want to use a dye to color your walnut just to make it colorfast. Walnut lightens with age unlike other woods that darken. I use a dye that sets the color as it looks with an application of oil.

Chris Lukowski
08-31-2016, 10:09 AM
The reason why I was considering a dye or stain is, in addition to what Glenn mentioned about the lightening, is that I want to minimize the look of light and dark colored variations between the heartwood and the sapwood, making the color more or less uniform apart from the darker lines in the grain. As for the "blah" look of clear WB top coats, that's why I was looking at GF Enduro-Var which has an amber tone to it.

Scott Holmes
09-01-2016, 1:16 PM
I343359 This home office was about 30% walnut sapwood when I first looked at it... I used Dark Walnut TransTint dye, then shellac to seal it in, then top coated it. All spray work. The light satinwood is finished with blonde shellac then same satin top coat.