How to assemble slot cutter router bits?

[Jaze Derr]

I just purchased this set http://www.woodcraft.com/product/147473/woodriver-12-arbor-three-wing-slotting-cutter-router-bit-set.aspx#REVIEWS

It did not come with instructions, and I wasn't able to find anything very helpful when searching around. I am not (currently) interested in stacking any cutters right now, I just want to use one at a time. In what order are these things assembled? I have a lot of shims/washers/bearings and have no idea how they go together. I don't want to put it together wrong and have it come apart at a high rate of speed. I like my face the way it is.

These things seriously need instructions.

[Jamie Buxton]

Put one cutter on the mandrel. Put enough spacers on the mandrel that when you put the nut on, you can tighten the nut firmly against the cutter+spacer stack.

Me, I generally run a slot cutter with a bearing in the stack to run against the workpiece. But if you don't have a bearing, you will need an edge guide to control the depth of cut.

Me, I like an aircraft nut for these stacking router bit assemblies. It gives me more assurance that the assembly is not going to come apart in use.

Oh, yeah, put the cutter on so that the teeth cut when the router spins -- not backwards. No big harm if you do put the cutter on backwards -- it will just burn instead of cutting.

[Jaze Derr]

Thank you. If I use a bearing, does it go between the cutter and the nut, or on top of the cutter? Does it matter?

[Tom Ewell]

I usually collet the arbor tight, make sure the cutter is in proper position rotationally, use the collet wrench/spindle lock on the router to hold while the arbor nut is tightened down.

If bearings are involved just make sure the bearing can spin freely, usually involves some washers/spacers.

Where the bearings go is up to intended use, top, bottom, somewhere in the middle or multiples of, they can also be used as specific depth of cut limiters if different sizes are included in the kit.

Washer goes under the nut, can also be between the arbor shoulder and the cutter/bearing and between bearing and cutter/nut to allow for spin, in my experience as long is all is snug, bearing spins freely and nut has full purchase, it's good to go.

Think saw blade, just smaller, faster spinning with a good sized kerf and extra features.

[Chris Padilla]

Me, I like an aircraft nut for these stacking router bit assemblies. It gives me more assurance that the assembly is not going to come apart in use.
Never heard of an 'aircraft' nut before and when I looked it up, I see that it has that nylon insert in it. I guess I never knew the proper name of these nuts!


Oh, yeah, put the cutter on so that the teeth cut when the router spins -- not backwards. No big harm if you do put the cutter on backwards -- it will just burn instead of cutting. LOL! I just did that recently and wondered why it was cutting so poorly! DUH! :p

[Jaze Derr]

Thank you, all!

[John Lankers]

Or you can call them Nylon Locknuts, they work great but when tightened and loosened to often the nylon can lose its grip.