engraving and cutting

[Eric Wishart]

Suppose I want to engrave trophy plates on .025" bright gold aluminum stock . If i want to engrave then cut the plates out what type and size machine would I need? I am just getting into this world and would like expert opinions before calling companies. I am leaning towards Trotec. I am just wondering if I need a flex or is CO2 adequate for this? Thx

[Tony Lenkic]

In order to laser engrave aluminum you need right product,
Typical trophy aluminum is engraved with rotary machines. There are some aluminum sheets stock for laser engraving such as........... Laser it, Laser frost, Alumamark .
If you need them cut you need table top shear for metals. Check Accucutters web site for more info. Investing in one is essential if you are trophy shop.

You could use plastic sheets 0.020 thickness that laser will engrave and cut.

As a start up CO2 is what you need. If you venture into other engravings than down the road you can add fiber laser.

[Eric Wishart]

Thanks for your input Tony

[Kev Williams]

to expound--

You can't C02 laser bright gold (or silver) aluminum. This material is typically diamond etched, or tool engraved. Diamond etch is a no-brainer, tool engraving is a total pain because (a) you can't use a depth gauge to regulate cutting depth because the material scratches too easily, and (b) that type of aluminum doesn't engrave well. You can blacken diamond etch with 'Aloxide' or equivalent, but I've never like the inconsistent results. It does blacken tool engraving nicely, and if deep enough paint will work. Otherwise, your result will be silver or gold engraving.

You CAN C02 laser black over gold lasersteel or laserable black brass. Typically you laser thru the black to reveal gold (or silver) text/graphics. However, you CAN produce black text on a gold/silver background, but you have to fully sweep the plate to clear all the black EXCEPT the lettering you want remaining. First, this is time consuming. This procedure can also be a pain because (in my experience) you must over-run the plate by a 1/8" or so, so that all the black is evenly cleared. This creates a setup headache. Plus, the laser's cut/speed settings must be dead on or you can leave blotches or banding, or you can cook the protective surface under the black which leaves rainbows... And finally, you must go to the trouble of offsetting the text and graphics outlines you're engraving to compensate for the width of the beam, or you'll engrave away sections that should remain...

Or you could use Alumamark or other laserable trophy material. I supposed it's been improved since the last time I used it (hopefully). I didn't care for it's look (artificial) or the engraving results (different shades of gray to dark gray on the same plate)

A fiber will directly engrave trophy materials, but a white etch is what you'll get. Could be Aloxide will blacken the engraving sufficiently, not sure. Fiber's are great for metals, but not for everything. I found that out just yesterday when using to make some ID plates from silver/black trophy material, the C02 turns the silver nice & shiny, the fiber makes it bright white but flat, doesn't even look like aluminum. I've also found I'll keep using Cermark and my C02's to do black engraving on stainless. Just looks better than what the fiber can do (and with less material heat warping).

I've been 'into this world' for going on 50 years, so I guess my opinions can be considered 'expert'. And for what it's worth, my business is predominately industrial oriented, trophies and awards in general is something our business has never done other than 'on occasion'. I have great respect for those in that end of this business, because quite honestly, IMO it's not the easiest way to make a living.

[Mike Null]

I make a lot of plates like you describe but I use a process called laser sublimation which transfers a black mark to the plate. I use them for name tags, ID plates, and plaques. I occasionally diamond drag a plate then oxidize it but the laser sublimation is superior in appearance and easier to do.

As far as your laser is concerned I've been a Trotec fan for a long time.

[Mark Sipes]

Flexi Brass (plastic) comes in Gold/Black, Silver/Black, Black/Gold.......... 0.020 thick.. I pre-tape the back so when it cuts they are ready to install on the awards.

Rowmark 602-734 , 602-354


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[Ross Moshinsky]

I make trophy plates all different ways. By far my preferred method is "flexibrass". I used to use IPI's version but have since switched to JDS's new version. It's not cut as straight and it's a little more wavy but it has a nicer grain to it and it doesn't leave as many finger prints which it nice. Also it comes with adhesive on the back which is really beneficial. I'd absolutely hate having to go back to individually taping and removing the tape on 100's of plates for a larger order.

That said, I laser engrave aluminum and sublimated aluminum for trophy plates too. Sublimation is by far the most cost effective method but I find it too labor intensive. Flexibrass I throw on the laser with a little blue painters tape and let it run.