Would 2 jointers be useful? or excessive?

[Mark Gibney]

I'm milling a bunch of cherry for a job. My 16" jointer with straight knives works fine for flattening one side before the boards go to the planer, but not so great for truing an edge.

The reason is the blades are getting dull. Well, it takes me so long to change out the knives I just can't take that time in the middle of this job (yeah I wish I had a Tersa or a helical jointer but I don't). So the jointed edges are not great.

I got to thinking it might be good to have a second jointer just for edge jointing.

And I think it could be a much smaller machine, even a 4" head. Byrd make a 4" head - and I picture retrofitting an older jointer with this head, and extending the beds so I can edge joint long boards.

Has anyone out there done something like this? Or have an opinion on having two jointers in a shop?

I think I read somewhere about using the router table with an off-set fence and a straight bit to edge joint boards. Haven't seen this in action, and so I'm not picturing if it will be easily adjustable to do good repeatable milling.

I feel this topic has likely been covered before, but I haven't found any threads on it at all.

Mark

[Mike Chalmers]

I would just buy a new jointer with the spiral cutterhead. Oh wait, I did. Almost a year now, and no regrets. Still cutting well on first edges. That being said, I work with predominately pine.

[mark mcfarlane]

I'm milling a bunch of cherry for a job. My 16" jointer with straight knives works fine for flattening one side before the boards go to the planer, but not so great for truing an edge....
I got to thinking it might be good to have a second jointer just for edge jointing.


Hi Mark,

I'm not sure what else you have in the shop, but some people use a sliding table saw for the final edge jointing. Set up properly (with stable wood) you can trim off a live edge to a glue-ready joint in one pass. You could potentially get similar results with a jig, some care, and a conventional table saw. The results are dependent on the accuracy of your setup, as is using jointer,... but when using a slider the human factor is pretty much removed.

[Frederick Skelly]

Many of us have two bandsaws and do so for the same reason you're talking about - we use them for different things. A 6" jointer is all I have and it joints edges beautifully. The beds are probably a total of about 7 feet long, which is enough for my needs.

Just make sure it won't take longer to locate, purchase, transport, unload and set-up a smaller jointer (and maybe build/adjust the bed extensions) than it will to replace the blades on your 16".

Another idea just stuck me, but I dont know if it can be done...... Is there a way to hone the blades on your 16" with them still installed? Depends on your machine and the condition of the blades (nicked, etc).

Good luck!
Fred

[Matt Day]

I think my first step would be to get some sharp knives on the 16" jointer as face jointing quality must not be too great either.

That being said, I think it is pretty common to have a large jointer accompanied by a 6". Part of it is probably safety since reaching over 15+" of spinning blade to edge joint isn't very safe.

[Carroll Courtney]

Do you have a shaper that you could setup with the proper head (spiral),that way it could do double duty and less floor space than two jointers.

[glenn bradley]

I agree with the advice to get a sharp set of knives and to have a spare sharp set on hand. That being said, I have to wonder about the entire length of your 16 inch knives being dull. Can't you simply adjust the fence to a low use area to do your edge jointing?

[Wayne Lomman]

Mark, I would have no hesitation having 2 jointers. Have done in the past in my larger shop. If you are straightening edges for gluing, use your slider as already suggested. It will give a better surface for that purpose.

Re honing, if you have hss knives in your 16", do a quick hone on the machine. Drop the outfeed table a fraction, get out your oilstone with a piece of paper under it, wedge the cutter head and get honingusing the outfeed table as your base. This will get a bit more life out of them when you need it. This is machining 101. I used to do it in the bad old days before tct knives. Still don't get why anyone uses hss though. Cheers

[Jim Becker]

The answer to your question purely revolves around your own work flow and space availability. If you have the space and you will find it useful to your work, they by all means put in the second unit. Your needs are different than mine...I never edge joint on the jointer at all because I have a sliding table saw. Once the lumber is flat and thicknesses, that perpendicular edge is cut on the slider with no scalloping that's normal for a jointer cutting head for the same operation.

[John Lankers]

Here is another option, sometimes when I'm sloppy jointing the edges I just grab my jointer planer and give it a pass or 2 - quick and more precise than any powertool.

[Mark Gibney]

I don't have a slider - and I didn't know you could use one to edge boards. I can dream of the day I do have one.

As Matt mentions, it's not much fun reaching to the far side of the spinning blades (to where they should be less worn) when edge jointing, especially as the guard is missing off this used machine, and replacing it is on my to-do.

All in all I think I'll look at getting a smaller second machine. If any of you have high regard for a particular make and model I'd like to hear what it is. And thanks for the advice, always invaluable.

[David Kumm]

I have two jointers, a 16" Porter and a Delta DJ 20. The big jointer is direct drive so it excels at face jointing but a second jointer near the saw to handle edges or just for convenience is pretty handy. I'm generally not a spiral fan for a jointer but it has some benefit for edge jointing. Esta work pretty well too as I usually run the 48" or less edges against an edge sander. Just a touch. Straightening a board with a jointer isn't very efficient time wise unless you use the big machine that can take off an inch or so. I use a slider for that so the DJ 20 workks well. It wouldn't be my choice for straightening boards though. Dave

[Andrew Hughes]

I've thought about getting a small jointer.I have a 12inch Oliver so my expectations will be high on a second machine.
I see lots of jointers out here in the Inland empire and some nice one in LA.
I did have a 8 inch with a Bryd head and I did not like edge joint glue ups.I could see glue lines on table tops.
My only solution was to perfect the edge with my foreplane.
So I give a HH head a thumbs down.
This is and has been my experience hope it helps.
Aj

[Frederick Skelly]

If any of you have high regard for a particular make and model I'd like to hear what it is. And thanks for the advice, always invaluable.

Well, everyone has their favorite brand.... I have a 6" JET. New they go for about $900, though I bought mine for much less several years ago. Also, I just checked and saw that Grizzly has a 6" benchtop for $250 and a two different 6" floor models for $525 and $595, plus shipping.

Good luck!

[mark mcfarlane]

...

As Matt mentions, it's not much fun reaching to the far side of the spinning blades (to where they should be less worn) when edge jointing, especially as the guard is missing off this used machine, and replacing it is on my to-do.

As Glenn said, if you have a fence on the jointer there is no reason to reach over the 16" blade. Slide the fence towards you and, low and behold, you might be over a sharper part of the blades, particularly if you normally edge/face joint with the fence all the way 'away' from where you stand. In that case the 'close' few inches of the blades haven't seen much wood.

[Peter Kelly]

Track saw works great for edge jointing. A TS 75 with a rip blade can do up to 2 3/4" quite easily.

Louis Sauzedde demoed a shop made circular saw edge jointing setup as well.

[eugene thomas]

I bought 16" jointer few years ago and bought dispozablade system. changing blades is fast and easy.

[Chris Fournier]

Changing blades shouldn't take more than 45 minutes once you are comfortable with the procedure. An hour tops as you start out. How many hours and $$$ are involved in getting a second machine as you are thinking of doing? You have a larger jointer, it does two things well - flattening a face and creating a perpendicular edge to this face, just like every other jointer.

Invest in your skill set and learn to change knives.

[jack duren]

Two jointers is excessive.

[Frederick Skelly]

Two jointers is excessive.

Why's that Jack?

[Mark Wooden]

I'm with the others on getting another set of sharp knives and having two sets, or at least honing the knives in the jointer. I don't know what make of jointer you have, but the first 1" to 1-1/2" of the knives usually don't see a lot of work,( just like the last few inches) if your fence racks over that far.
I keep two jointers also, always good to have an 8" on a mobile base that I can move around the shop to where I need it.
I'm also with Andrew on the helical head, they have their place but the cut they produce doesn't blow my hair back.

[Jim Becker]

I don't have a slider - and I didn't know you could use one to edge boards. I can dream of the day I do have one.

Ha...I hope you didn't take my comment as suggesting you get a slider! I was just pointing out that "your" workflow is what counts in the decision you're asking about. And it's a good question, quite frankly. The smaller jointer for edges (perhaps with some bed extensions) is a good solution for what you describe.

[Bill Adamsen]

I can't imagine any 4" jointer with which I am familiar performing edge jointing satisfactorily. Seconding what Carroll recommended ... a shaper with a spiral cutter-head and a power feeder. But that still leaves the width as an issue. Do you need boards square and parallel all sides?

I too would think another jointer more redundancy than one needs. I can't really think of how that would improve the workflow without taking away more valuable space.

[Mark Gibney]

I too would think another jointer more redundancy than one needs. I can't really think of how that would improve the workflow without taking away more valuable space.

It takes me forever to change out the knives on the 16" jointer, to the point I can't take the time right now in the middle of the job I'm working on, it's like trying to push string up a hill. Maybe I was born with two left hands....

The knives are okay for jointing faces, as the boards then go thru the planer, but for the edges, it would be good to have another machine to joint them. Of course expense and space are always an issue. I'm not in a rush to get this machine so I'll let the advice you all contributed settle for a while and down the road I'll know what I want to do.

[Ronald Mancini]

I used to use my 8" Grizzly to edge joint boards, but because most of my wood is straight from the sawmill and air dried it takes a lot of passes to edge joint most boards. Now I use my track saw to edge joint the boards. Make sure the track saw blade is high quality, sharp, and true so you get a factory finish. Using a track saw is so easy that I love it. My 8" jointer is outside under a pole barn, and I do most of the woodworking inside a barn 30' away, so I have a 6" jointer in the barn to make life easy for working on smaller stock.

[jack duren]

Why's that Jack?

Not taking care of one doesn't mean you should buy another.

[Phillip Mitchell]

If I was dealing with a lot of pretty rough lumber on a regular basis, I would consider a track saw for straight-lining. Of course it's not just limited to that, but excels at that task which is certainly done easy enough on a jointer, but sometimes you have a little more flexibility with where to take material off with the track saw and can sometimes be quicker and cleaner when you're talking about really rough edges. I wish I had one for it's versatility...maybe one day.

I don't think another jointer is the answer to this problem. I think you should move your fence in close to the inside of the knives and/or replace them with sharp ones. You're gonna have to do that sooner or later the more face jointing you do anyway.

[Dale Murray]

I have one jointer and only recently acquired it, however, I did see an interview years ago with a woodworker who had one jointer dedicated to making a spring joint for glue-ups. I suppose, if you have the room and you do a great deal of panel glue-ups it totally makes sense.

I would kindly suggest a more reasonable, and still expensive, option would be to get two sets of carbide knives. You can always have a sharp set in reserve.

When I bought my table saw I bought two Freud blades (plywood and glueline). The first time I send one out to be sharpened I will then purchase a Forest blade and keep the Freud as my second string backup.

**** EDIT ****
- I just looked and Infinity has Carbide Tipped Jointer knives for very reasonable prices, in my opinion.

- I should add that while I've only had my jointer for 10 days - used DJ-20 - I've already installed a Shelix head on it and am extremely happy. The scalloping can be minimized with slower feed rates.

[Jeff Duncan]

So by the sounds of your post your doing this as a business yes? If so your in a very different situation than many/most on here so keep that in mind. For example, while using a hand plane or track saw to edge a few pieces of lumber is good advice in some situations, if your looking at 300 board feet of hardwoods.....it's just not going to be practical. I'm not trying to criticize anyones suggestions so please don't take it that way. It's just that if your looking at milling 30 board feet of lumber your in a very different place than someone who's looking at 300 bd ft.. I don't know which the OP is, but sounds like he may be closer to the latter camp?

As someone who does this for a living I find having two jointers is absolutely a beneficial way to go. I use the big jointer to straighten and flatten all my rough stock first stock. The smaller jointer is almost exclusively used for just touching up edges where needed. With a big 16" jointer you can drop the table and straighten edges quicker than any other method short of using an SLR. And since all the "dirty" wood goes over the big jointer and through the planer first, only clean boards are going over the smaller jointer when needed. Meaning I can get years out of the knives without changing. So for me having the second jointer is a real benefit. Oh and personally I wouldn't worry about getting any fancy heads, learn how to change your knives and you'll be fine. I know I'm in the minority in here but I find the spiral heads to be highly over rated for what they are.

Lastly, if I were you I wouldn't worry about picking up another jointer right now. If you don't have time to change knives you certainly don't have time to set up a new machine. Get a second set of knives for your machine if you don't already have them and set aside the time to change the knives. Even if your fairly new to changing them it shouldn't take more than a couple hours. Certainly less time than it will take to get a new, (or even more so if used), machine up and running.

good luck!
JeffD

[Roy Turbett]

I think I read somewhere about using the router table with an off-set fence and a straight bit to edge joint boards. Haven't seen this in action, and so I'm not picturing if it will be easily adjustable to do good repeatable milling.

I feel this topic has likely been covered before, but I haven't found any threads on it at all.

Mark

I just got rid of a 6" Rigid jointer that a friend was letting me use because it was too small for surfacing most boards and too short for edge jointing long boards. I recently picked up a used router lift and had to make a new table because of the smaller plate. I mounted the old top and another router on an old RAS stand and set it up for edge jointing with a straight pattern maker bit with the bearing on the bottom. I offset the left fence with a shim out of some scrap formica and use a straightedge to align the left fence with the bearing. I then lower the router bit to bury the bearing and expose the cutting edge. I get great results with the router but there is frequently some snipe at the very end of the cut.

I have an in-feed table that is co-planer with my table saw. The router table is several feet to the right of the in-feed table and is also co-planer with the table saw and in-feed table. This allows me to move quickly between ripping and edge jointing operations with the stock fully supported.

[Andrew Hughes]

I think setting up a router or a tablesaw to joint wood is silly.
Time is better spend learning how to handplane.And more rewarding.
I rather rub a board flat on my driveway then fiddle with a router.

Aj

[mark mcfarlane]

...I rather rub a board flat on my driveway then fiddle with a router.

Aj

:D, thanks for the laugh Andrew.

[Roy Turbett]

I rather rub a board flat on my driveway then fiddle with a router.

Aj

Wax on - wax off ......

[Mark Wooden]

You can make a straight line sled to handle 8'+ stock for just about any table saw, and it's ahelluva lot easier and quicker than a router.

[Roy Turbett]

You can make a straight line sled to handle 8'+ stock for just about any table saw, and it's ahelluva lot easier and quicker than a router.

It's true that a sled is much more efficient to get a straight edge, but a straight cutting bit in a router table gives a much better finish cut and is just as fast as a second pass on the table saw without having to change setups. Also, the OP is doing 300 BF of cherry which is prone to burning when ripping. The router table doesn't have this problem.

[Mark Wooden]

300 bd ft is a decent pile, but not huge. I still say hone your knives for now, but if you can flatten a face but not joint an edge, somethings wrong,
Good rip blade, steady feed on a good saw(2+hp) and burning won't be a problem.
Rip a straight edge, smooth cut the other on a shaper with an outboard fence and power feed if available; if not run an offset fence for a smoothing pass, but the out feed fence should be long and straight.

I always quickly straighten one edge of my RS4S or H&M stock, crosscut and rip my parts out 1/4" to 1/2" over on width, 2" over on length, then flatten 1 face, joint 1 edge; then plane to thickness and size for width, whether with a jointer, in the planer on edge (used mostly) or on the shaper, depends on what I'm making.
Why?
I only have to handle large and heavy boards once maybe twice while breaking them down.( I'm getting older and don't like to work too hard anymore;))
Inner tension is relieved, cracks and sheaving are exposed early in the process
Easier to flatten a 4" x 60" piece than an 9" x 10' board, and by cutting it shorter and narrower, it lessens the bow or crook you have to flatten/joint out
The time I have to acclimate the stock is less as there is a lot more of the inside of the stock exposed.
Doing things this way, I can usually keep overall waste below 12%- most folks figure 20-30%.

IMO. routers have their place as a necessary part of a shop, but if I was faced with having to mill 300 bd ft of anything with one, I'd sell them all and buy a jointer
YMMV- and please remember this is just an opinion

[Roy Turbett]

Good rip blade, steady feed on a good saw(2+hp) and burning won't be a problem.

Rip a straight edge, smooth cut the other on a shaper with an outboard fence and power feed if available; if not run an offset fence for a smoothing pass, but the out feed fence should be long and straight.



I'm also speaking from experience. I have a 5 hp Sawstop with a Freud Glue Line rip blade that is sharp and perfectly tuned and I still occasionally burn the edge of cherry. I have a 3 hp Porter Cable 7518 in my second router table that serves the same purpose as a shaper and produces a jointed edge that is superior to what I can get on the tablesaw.

[Warren Lake]

llke all the Ginger or Mariane posts it depends on what you are doing. so what are you doing you wrote


'm milling a bunch of cherry for a job. My 16" jointer with straight knives works fine for flattening one side before the boards go to the planer, but not so great for truing an edge.

The reason is the blades are getting dull. Well, it takes me so long to change out the knives I just can't take that time in the middle of this job (yeah I wish I had a Tersa or a helical jointer but I don't). So the jointed edges are not great.

I got to thinking it might be good to have a second jointer just for edge jointing.

And I think it could be a much smaller machine, even a 4" head. Byrd make a 4" head - and I picture retrofitting an older jointer with this head, and extending the beds so I can edge joint long boards.

Has anyone out there done something like this? Or have an opinion on having two jointers in a shop?

I think I read somewhere about using the router table with an off-set fence and a straight bit to edge joint boards. Haven't seen this in action, and so I'm not picturing if it will be easily adjustable to do good repeatable milling.

I feel this topic has likely been covered before, but I haven't found any threads on it at all.

Mark



-you run your face and no good for edges? its not set right or your technique is not good, in general the setting for a face and edge will be a bit different, especially if you want a spring joint and it takes seconds to get there
-if your knives are dull then hone them ten minutes and they will cut clean if you do a good job, I hone to the head not to the back table works better for me, for some things honed knives can work better than fresh sharp ones.,.
-second jointer fine, not needed, for me not for edges but for back up duplicate of one when I had tight deadlines old SCM never let me down back up not needed so far,
-smaller machine, 4" mickey mouse for any larger material, large longer material done 16 foot several times, I dont even like the 8" one after using a heavy machine,
-router table mickey mouse, noisey vibrating obnoxious beast have their place I guess but not here unless you dont have something better and you do
-shaper better than a router table different machine, still wont be as good as a jointer on long lengths, plus you have to set it up, jointer its right there in front of you, ready to go, I get about saving set up times but in this case there really is next to non.,

you are missing the basics, hone your knives and keep working, hone them again in the near future and again, dull knives dont work well and noisey and more dangerous, when you have time change them

[Mark Wooden]

-if your knives are dull then hone them ten minutes and they will cut clean if you do a good job, I hone to the head not to the back table works better for me, for some things honed knives can work better than fresh sharp ones.,.
you are missing the basics, hone your knives and keep working, hone them again in the near future and again, dull knives dont work well and noisey and more dangerous, when you have time change them

Ayup, that's what I'm thinking too. And don't forget to unplug/shut the breaker off first.;)

[Chris Fournier]

I'm also speaking from experience. I have a 5 hp Sawstop with a Freud Glue Line rip blade that is sharp and perfectly tuned and I still occasionally burn the edge of cherry. I have a 3 hp Porter Cable 7518 in my second router table that serves the same purpose as a shaper and produces a jointed edge that is superior to what I can get on the tablesaw.

That must be some router table that you have! I have never seen a router produce a better straight edge than a properly set up TS with a rip glue blade installed.

[Roy Turbett]

That must be some router table that you have! I have never seen a router produce a better straight edge than a properly set up TS with a rip glue blade installed.

I happened to be breaking down some cherry for some cabinets I'm making and thought I post some pictures of how I edge joint using a router table.

This is my table saw, out-feed table, in-feed table, and router table all set to same height.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff413/turbettr/Router%20table%20edge%20planing/IMG_0851_zpsbf0vp6vr.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/turbettr/media/Router%20table%20edge%20planing/IMG_0851_zpsbf0vp6vr.jpg.html)

This is a piece of cherry ripped with a Freud Glue Line Rip Blade on a 5 hp Sawstop. Note the burnt edge.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff413/turbettr/Router%20table%20edge%20planing/IMG_0845_zps7qxtpels.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/turbettr/media/Router%20table%20edge%20planing/IMG_0845_zps7qxtpels.jpg.html)

This is my router table setup. A 3/64" thick piece of formica like the one shown is mounted behind the left fence on the router table. I only use one shim because I'm going for a finish edge.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff413/turbettr/Router%20table%20edge%20planing/IMG_0846_zpsvxccrnzc.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/turbettr/media/Router%20table%20edge%20planing/IMG_0846_zpsvxccrnzc.jpg.html)

This is the same piece of cherry after a single pass on the router table.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff413/turbettr/Router%20table%20edge%20planing/IMG_0848_zps3i30egfi.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/turbettr/media/Router%20table%20edge%20planing/IMG_0848_zps3i30egfi.jpg.html)

Here'e another side by side comparison. The table saw cut is on the top. The router table is on the bottom.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff413/turbettr/Router%20table%20edge%20planing/IMG_0852_zpsesbbck02.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/turbettr/media/Router%20table%20edge%20planing/IMG_0852_zpsesbbck02.jpg.html)

Long stock is just as easy to run as short stock.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff413/turbettr/Router%20table%20edge%20planing/IMG_0855_zpst8dr0xmc.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/turbettr/media/Router%20table%20edge%20planing/IMG_0855_zpst8dr0xmc.jpg.html)

I'm using a Freud straight cutting bit with a bearing on the bottom. I line the bearing up with the left fence and then lower the bit to expose the cutting edge. This photo is taken from the top and shows a jointed board flush with left fence (out-feed) and a 3/64" gap on the right (in-feed) side. You can take off more stock by adding more shims but you will get the best finish with a single shim.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff413/turbettr/Router%20table%20edge%20planing/IMG_0853_zps71nv0gvp.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/turbettr/media/Router%20table%20edge%20planing/IMG_0853_zps71nv0gvp.jpg.html)

[Warren Lake]

nice clean shop, enough burns on the wood to start a forest fire, smooth finish means little how straight or sprung whatever is what is important, small radius straight cutter will blow out at some point, its noisey and most important the important thing is how straight the board is. its slow and wont tolerate long boards well. To do that on a shaper would be one thing and its still a compromise with long material compared to a jointer. Try running a long heavy board. that is fine at the hobby level and still I could not do it, unrealistic for anyone who is making a living,

[Chris Fournier]

Hi Roy, thanks for posting those pictures they certainly explain your position on this topic! In my opinion you have a problem(s) at the tablesaw that you can address and you will then get glue ready edges off of your saw. If you edges are indeed straight off of your router then you are good to go of course.

You table saw problems are likely alignment related for several components. Also check the thicknesses of your riving knife and your carbides on that Freud blade. IF that blade is a thin kerf model I would make a shop clock face out of it!

Regardless thanks for letting us into your shop for a peek.

[Erik Loza]

Trying to think back about all the shops I've been in and don't remember ever seeing multiple jointers. Multiple shapers, yes. Multiple bandsaws, yes. Even multiple table saws (a big slider and then regular cabinet saw, maybe set up for dados, for example), but can't recall ever seeing more than a single jointer or planer. Not sure if that answers your question but just an observation from the production side of things.

Erik

[Roy Turbett]

Let me be clear, I'm not opposed to jointers and happen to be in the market for a good one. My response to this thread is in regard to the OP's question on how to use a router table for edge jointing.

I would also like to point out that stock with the burnt edges began as a 20" wide by 8' long piece of cherry with multiple splits, grains, and knots. Most of the burning happened when the natural stresses of the wood released when the wood was ripped and cross-cut into usable pieces. Also, cherry has a high resin content that makes it more prone to burning. The piece started out something like this one only much worse. My table saw is in perfect alignment and the blade is not thin kerf and is clean and sharp.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff413/turbettr/IMG_0861_zpsyb6ihrzo.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/turbettr/media/IMG_0861_zpsyb6ihrzo.jpg.html)

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff413/turbettr/IMG_0858_zpssvn0mbnm.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/turbettr/media/IMG_0858_zpssvn0mbnm.jpg.html)

I don't use my router table to get a straight edge. I attach a sled to get an initial straight edge and then break the stock down further using the same procedure Mark Wooden described earlier. I then let it acclimate overnight before cutting it to final dimension.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff413/turbettr/IMG_0863_zpszo4xpctm.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/turbettr/media/IMG_0863_zpszo4xpctm.jpg.html)

The stock I'm preparing will become cabinet face frames and doors. I'm using the router table to obtain a finish edge. The router table produces a glass like edge without the scallops of a jointer or the saw marks of a table saw. But this edge can be too smooth for glue-ups. When I'm doing a glue-up, I use my table saw to remove 1/16" to prepare the edge.

This is a photo of two pieces of acclimated rough cut stock side by side. Notice the gap at the top.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff413/turbettr/IMG_0860_zpsg8fnjbwe.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/turbettr/media/IMG_0860_zpsg8fnjbwe.jpg.html)

This is the same stock after 1/16" has been removed at the table saw. The burn mark has also been removed.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff413/turbettr/IMG_0859_zpsruhpn4vu.jpg (http://s1234.photobucket.com/user/turbettr/media/IMG_0859_zpsruhpn4vu.jpg.html)

[John TenEyck]

My two cents is the OP is playing a dangerous game using a jointer with no guard, and one 16" wide is going to take a lot of flesh and bone if he ever makes a mistake. No way I would even turn it on like that.

Buy new blades - and a guard. Install both, and work safely.

John