Cutting and prep of veneer

[David Ragan]

Hi Everyone,

It has been a long time since I have sawn any veneers.

Am making a base for a pet's urn.

This question is primarily geared toward technique of getting all the sawn pieces of uniform thickness and smooth.

The material, at this point, is Macassar Ebony. The Ebony block is maybe 4x4x9".

So, I set up the bandsaw, tension the blade.

Then take the block piece of Ebony, plane one face smooth, then cut my slice however thick-say 1/16".

This gives me a single piece of veneer w one face smooth, and the other not. (I need three more for the top.)

My block of Ebony now has to be planed again(?)-so the next piece of veneer comes off the bandsaw w one smooth face. Is this the proper technique?

After sawing, all the pieces must be the same thickness. I don't have a thickness sander. Have a DW735 w spiral head.....make a sled and use double sided tape, run through planer to get all pieces the same thickness?

For the sake of discussion-how about just: get good 90* edges, put the good/smooth side down, and glue the veneer on the substrate (there will be a four point match, by necessity). Then use hand tools, or machine to get the pieces/surface to uniform thickness?

How am I doing in the planning?

As always-thank you

[Robert Engel]

There are others here much more knowledgeable than me, and I await their responses.

I always rejoint the face I'm putting against the fence but if you have a good blade and get fairly clean cuts, I don't think its necessary.

I think with a piece this size, I would just use a hand plane.

Oops forgot to add, if the glue surface is uneven the glue line may show - this is the main reason I rejoint.

[Bill McNiel]

For the sake of discussion-how about just: get good 90* edges, put the good/smooth side down, and glue the veneer on the substrate (there will be a four point match, by necessity). Then use hand tools, or machine to get the pieces/surface to uniform thickness?


David,
When slicing that thin (1/16") this is exactly what I would do if I didn't have a drum sander. Trying to run 1/16" slices through a planner is problematic IMHO. Your proposed process to this point is also what I do.
regards - Bill

[Andrew Hughes]

Shop sawn Mac Ebony veneer is going to be up there with difficult woods to work with.
I wouldn't worry about smoothing out the sawn surface after you have it glued up.
If you have too smooth out any ridges use a card scraper.
To square up the sides sandwich them between some plywood.
And shoot the long edges and end grain with a handplane.
If handplane still aren't in your tool bag then a tablesaw could be used.Your gonna have to work out how to hold the sandwich together.

I Resaw laminates for bend profiles both sides need to be ready for glue.Mostly walnut. I'm fortunate my saw will give me a very close to ready surface.
Macasser ebony that's a whole different kettle of fish.
Good luck sounds like a fun challenge.

Aj

[David Ragan]

Have not had a chance to do this yet-thanks for the refresher. Have played around w ebonizing, and not satisfied w results.