Tea Tray... best finish against water and heat?

[Benjamin Hackney]

I'm new to sawmill creek but have been using it for helpful info for a while now.

On two upcoming tea tray commissions I'll be finishing a wood top that will have hot water poured through holes in the surface repeatedly. I'm looking for help with the best sort of finish that will protect against the water, but also against the heat. Currently considering a spar varnish for my first tests. Am I on the right track?

Thanks much.

[Mel Fulks]

Big tea fan ,have no idea of what you mean. "Poured through holes in the surface" is not registering.

[Benjamin Hackney]

Thanks, Mel. Looks like this. Water used for warming tea cups and waste tea is poured through into a plastic basin underneath.

342940

[Steve Schoene]

I'm with Mel, I can't imagine making tea by pouring through a wood tray with holes. That's what silver or other metal strainers are for. Wood trays are for holding cups and the teapot. To bring from the kitchen or fireplace to the tea drinkers.

If you must finish a piece as you describe a good oil based varnish including interior varnish. The thing that distinquishes spar varnishes is extra flexibility and UV protection, Spar varnishes don't have stronger water proof qualities.

[Brett Luna]

What kind of wood? The pictured tray is made out of bamboo which handles water much better than most woods. I'm certainly not the most experienced finisher but I'm not too optimistic about any finish providing long term water protection to typical hardwoods...not from very hot water, anyway.

[Mel Fulks]

I just looked at some pics, seems to me like the idea is modern and the trays are fairly inexpensive. If your work will be for your own use you can afford to experiment. If you intend to sell them it might be best just to make the drain,or even the whole tray out of something like Corian.

[Mike Henderson]

A catalyzed finish, such as catalyzed lacquer. It's about the toughest finish available. It's what's put on commercial furniture.

Mike

[Robin Frierson]

I would use no finish and use teak.

[Mike Henderson]

Or use a synthetic material with a wood grain look.

Mike

[Wayne Lomman]

Benjamin, the issue is to find a finish that will withstand repeated immersion with very hot to boiling water. No conventional wood finish will do this. Varnishes and pre-cats certainly won't. Epoxy will withstand 85 celsius constantly and 121 celsius intermittently so this would work. It would need some research to find the right one.

The alternative is to go with Robin's idea and use a durable timber. Teak would be good but any durable hardwood will work. Choose one that simply bleaches with repeated washing rather than discolouring. Cheers

[Benjamin Hackney]

Thanks a lot for the responses. Right now I'm testing ipe, mahogany, jatoba and sapele with spar varnish. My third of several coats is drying. In truth, water won't regularly be at boiling temperature. The drained water will be hottest after it has been used to warm the teaware, which I believe will lower the temperature about 10-20 degrees minimum. So maybe 175 F is hottest, I'm not sure. I'm not the tea drinker, but these guys want them made. They brought me one of their own that is bamboo and they've had it for years and the finish has held up. Is that more b/c of bamboo wood properties than finish? I've seen another of their's (they call them tea boats) that was a darker wood, not sure what, something exotic, and it has held up for years with whatever finish is on it.

I consider the most functional form of discarding waste water to be a bowl or even the sink. Maybe the toilet if it's nearby. These are a bit more "ceremonial" if you will, for the japenese tea steeping process. Thanks for the help.

[Jim Becker]

Spar Varnish is very soft and designed to "bend"...as it must on a boat in order not to crack. It's not designed for heat...

I do suspect that the bamboo has something to do with the success your client has experienced previously. Maybe a bamboo wood product should be on your consideration list.

[Benjamin Hackney]

Thanks, Jim, and others for the responses.

[John Blazy]

Very interesting thread. All of the replies appear to be decent, but I especially lean toward Wayne with epoxy, but mostly lean toward no finish at all, using some aromatic wood for a good smell when wet, like Cedar.

If using epoxy, I would heat the finish sanded tray in an oven and bring it up to about 200 F. The main reason is to cause epoxy to soak into the wood, with the side benefit of off-gassing any moisture. Then wipe on a good epoxy which will soak in deep due to the lowering of the viscosity of the epoxy, and the suction created when the wood cools. Then immediately wipe off the epoxy - dont allow any film build. This will petrify the wood. If allowing any film build of ANY coating (epoxy or especially spar varnish), it WILL peel after repeated water exposure.

Ipe is a good choice - no finish though.