Power feeder recommendations

[mark kosse]

Howdy folks, I had a small power feeder in a shop years ago and always wanted another after I left. Well, it's time. Any recommendations on the new small shop (< 1/2 hp)power feeders?

[Andy Giddings]

Might be a big budget item, Mark, but I've just got a Co-Matic DC40 and am very happy with it. Its lighter than most as it has a DC motor (1/2HP but produces a lot of torque) and this makes it easier to lift up and down using the tilting platform on the Hammer combo. Also easy to flip from horizontal to vertical. Variable speed is useful but, from what I can gather, most users find a speed that works for them and stick to that. Comes in 240, 110 and 3 phase. Its about the lightest 4 wheeler I could find. The 3 wheel DC30 is slightly cheaper

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi, I have a 1/2 HP 3 wheel feeder.

It would be suitable for your use, or a 4 wheel feeder.

The infinitely variable speed feeder Andy mentioned above is very nice, it would be an excellent choice.............Regards, Rod.

[Erik Loza]

Need to know the OP's budget. It will be either around $500 or over $1,000. Those are basically your pricing levels.

Erik

[larry senen]

I've got the smallest delta and a grizzly one size up. That grizzly weighs a ton. But for occasional use it was the most affordable. I use the delta exclusively on a router table that is set up for doors. It runs the edges.
One trick i use to set up is to use a piece 1/8" thinner than the stock you plan to run to set the height of the machine. Seems to work on everything.

[Mike Delyster]

The Comatic DC30 and DC40 that Andy suggested are very nice feeders, if I was in the market for a new feeder it would be one of those. The way they go from parallel to perpendicular to the fence is so much better than any of the feeders I have. Comatic all so makes a Smart Stand as an option that I've heard good things about as well.

[Ronald Mancini]

Ihave two Grizzly 1/2 HP feeders; 4rollers. I will sell one for $400. It needs a little TLC.

[Alan Lightstone]

Comatic all so makes a Smart Stand as an option that I've heard good things about as well.

What is the difference between the Smart Stand and the conventional stand? The Smart Stand is an expensive option.

[Andy Giddings]

Not used the Smart Stand, Alan.

My understanding from the web site is its heavier (more stable?), bigger in terms of height, has a long horizontal arm as standard, has an adjustable lock so that you can return to a preset position time and again, and has the adjustments either right in front of you (for height) or a lot closer to you than a normal stand (swing and extension for example). Its also about $1300 ($900 more than the "normal" stand). There's a full description and video here http://www.shopgearinc.com/products/co-matic-power-feeders/power-feeder-stands/smart-stand.php

[David Kumm]

That stand and the DC feeder are best for large shapers that get heavy use. They are easier to set up, especially vertical to horizontal. Dave

[J.R. Rutter]

Best source in the US for a DC40?

[J.R. Rutter]

Ihave two Grizzly 1/2 HP feeders; 4rollers. I will sell one for $400. It needs a little TLC.

I've never seen one of those. I have a 1/2 hp 3 wheeler, but I thought the 4 wheelers were all 1 HP.

[Andy Giddings]

Best source in the US for a DC40?
Think Shop Gear is the best source (might be the only source as well :-))

[J.R. Rutter]

Think Shop Gear is the best source (might be the only source as well :-))

Thanks - I got a quote from them on Friday. They are willing to sell me a bare feeder, no stand for $1195. Just wanted a reality check on price.

[Joe Calhoon]

JR,
the Smart Stand is worthwhile if you are making change overs. On a dedicated shaper it would not have much benefit.
I replaced the Univer feeder on the T26 power feed arm with the DC 40 from Shop Gear. We also have the Wegoma 4N with a Smart Stand on another shaper. It is made by Comatic but modified a little by Wegoma. It is a heavier feed unit with manual speed adjustment at the rear. These units are sold by Martin. The DC40 can be adjusted digitally to speed and while operating. It has plastic covers vs the metal ones on the Wegoma but functions the same.
As mentioned the flip to vertical feed and the memory setting and easy height adjustment are what make these feeders better than the rest. Another nice feature is the split wheel option where you can remove a outer wheel to get in close to the cutter.
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[J.R. Rutter]

Thanks, Joe. The 4-wheeler would go onto the T130 tower/arm setup. We confirmed that the OD on the end of the crossarm is correct.

One question they haven't gotten back to me on is whether the wheels are the same pattern as the Maggi STEFF, so that I could use the Western Roller belt feed on my sticking setup where the variable speed would be really nice to have.

[Joe Calhoon]

JR,
I don't know if Maggi fits. My Univer wheels did not. The Univer cross post did not work either. Kyle from shop gear should know.

[J.R. Rutter]

The old style wheels don't fit. But they are introducing a DC powered 7 wheel feeder for short parts in about 4 months that will work perfectly for running sticking on short parts.

[Erik Loza]

...they are introducing a DC powered 7 wheel feeder...

!!!!!!

Erik

[Martin Wasner]

How do you put any angle on anything that long to keep parts up against the fence?

Or are the wheels much smaller in diameter than normal? Ritter had one with small wheels, it was about as long as a normal four wheeled feeder.

[Andrew J. Coholic]

How do you put any angle on anything that long to keep parts up against the fence?

Or are the wheels much smaller in diameter than normal? Ritter had one with small wheels, it was about as long as a normal four wheeled feeder.



The wheels are smaller.

I saw the DC40/smart stand at the IWF show... liked it before when I saw the youtube video. After handling it for 10 minutes, I know I needed one. Got the quote today from my Canadian dealer, ordering it tomorrow.

I think this feeder will be a game changer for all the stuff we run like casings and base on the shaper.

[Joe Calhoon]

The wide jointer feeder they had was nice and I like their bandsaw feeders. They open wide so you can use them like a ripsaw as well as resawing. With a optional air cylinder on the larger one.

One thing to keep in mind with the DC feeders if your shaper is wired to have the feeder start from the control panel you will have to push 2 buttons to get it going. Not a huge problem and I am getting used to it. It still shuts off when the shaper motor is stopped. You have to hold the large gray button for about 2 or 3 seconds to get it going. I could wire it direct but like that the feeder stops when the shaper powers down.

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[Martin Wasner]

Hind sight is aggravating. I bought a couple of eight speed, four wheel feeders last year. I should've bought those dc units for a couple hundred dollars more a piece.

[J.R. Rutter]

Mine should be here Friday :) The control panel don this shaper doesn't have a feeder button installed, so same sort of program for me: Run a batch, turn shaper off, remember feeder 10 minutes later, turn feeder off. Actually, the lights on the new feeder should help.

[peter gagliardi]

Joe, i see your DC40 is the Martin "water blue" color instead of that aweful orange at the show. Did you order it that way, or have to paint yourself?
Do you think it truly does have the same or better power than the Wegoma EZ40 style that comes on the Martin?
Do you think there is any issue putting one of these on the new T27 and how it integrates with the control screen?
Right now, I see less than zero reason to buy the Co-matic made and Wegoma branded EZ40 that Martin offers, especially awhen you factor the cost differential.
I could have almost 3 of the DC40's for the Wegoma cost

[Joe Calhoon]

Joe, i see your DC40 is the Martin "water blue" color instead of that aweful orange at the show. Did you order it that way, or have to paint yourself?
Do you think it truly does have the same or better power than the Wegoma EZ40 style that comes on the Martin?
Do you think there is any issue putting one of these on the new T27 and how it integrates with the control screen?
Right now, I see less than zero reason to buy the Co-matic made and Wegoma branded EZ40 that Martin offers, especially awhen you factor the cost differential.
I could have almost 3 of the DC40's for the Wegoma cost

Peter,
I painted mine, tried it with the reddish orange for a while and it hurt my eyes. 3 hours of prep but I had the paint can open anyway… I think Kyle at Shop Gear can get them in the light gray color by special order.

We have run over a thousand lineal of moldings and heavy door and window parts with the DC 40 now and see no issue with the power compared to the AC Variomatic. The Variomatic is heavier built with cast metal covers instead of plastic on the DC ones but I see no difference in function.

I don't see a problem with putting it on a new T27 with the power arm. It is the motorized adjustment of the arm that is built into the control panel. The only issue might be where the feeder plugs into the machine. I noticed the ones from Martin are 400 volt. They must have a transformer built into the machine for this. If you use the bare feed from Shop Gear you will need to buy the knuckle and a new cross tube from him also. The cross tube Martin uses is about 1mm or so bigger diameter and does not fit with the Comatic. The Martin arm adjusts to the smaller size tube. I think this is why the T27 Variomatic option from them is pricy at $2630 compared to $2160 for the T12 that fits the smart stand. I think Wegoma makes a fitting that adopts to the Martin cross tube. The Wegoma feeders come with the split wheels as standard also. And the smart stand that comes from Martin has a mechanical digital readout for height.

Still less money to go with Shop Gear but If I were springing for a new T27 I would just get the Wegoma. A small price in the overall picture of that machine. Kyle at Shop Gear gives good service, I had thought my cross bar would work and messed up with the bar length when I ordered his. He was good with the returns and aims for customer satisfaction.

Edit,
Martin pricing incorrect. Looking at latest pricing its higher.

[peter gagliardi]

I agree Joe, plastic bits on these machines is just asking for trouble. The quote I got for the Wegoma was just under $3100.00 :eek:. That DC 40 looks mighty good for around $1200.00.
For the cost of the T27, I have to save somewhere , and this seems a likely place. That puts me almost 2 grand towards tooling, or other stuff.

[Martin Wasner]

I'm curious how the 120v version works and if there is any downsides. I can't really think of any, and it could potentially be handy if it needed to be used where the correct power wasn't right there. If it's typically on a 480v shaper, but you want to use it on a 230v single phase tablesaw for whatever reason.

Plus 120v cord drops are cheap to add.

[David Kumm]

I think each feeder can be configured for 110,220, or three phase 240. One size fits all. Dave

[Martin Wasner]

I think each feeder can be configured for 110,220, or three phase 240. One size fits all. Dave

That's interesting. Put whatever cord end on and run it.

[Andy Giddings]

Mine came with the cord and plug already in place (120VAC). As its a DC motor, the voltage input shouldn't be relevant to the motor's torque. As Joe commented, power seems comparable with a regular AC motor of 1HP, except its lighter and cheaper to run

[J.R. Rutter]

I just went with the 3 ph, since I have an outlet set up that way on the shaper. Kyle also swapped the rubber wheels out for split poly wheels for $60. Shipping was under $40 to WA.

[Martin Wasner]

I just went with the 3 ph, since I have an outlet set up that way on the shaper. Kyle also swapped the rubber wheels out for split poly wheels for $60. Shipping was under $40 to WA.

Let us know how you like it. I may have to pull the trigger on one

[J.R. Rutter]

Let us know how you like it. I may have to pull the trigger on one

So far so good. It does have the typical feeder gear/chain noise, but I only notice it with the shop quiet (which will never happen in real life). I like the wheels. The combination of narrow profile split style and poly makes a conformable, grippy pusher. This should work really well for certain deep profiles that I run where only 1/2 of the wheel on the old feeder rode the stock coming out of the cutter. While I would have been happy with 6-8 speed buttons, I do like the display to get repeatable speeds dialed in. I'm not sure about using the taper fit linkage on the arm as a pivot vs the collar around the motor on a traditional feeder. Maybe with the right lubricant and tightening torque, this will be easier than it is now. I also miss the chip brushes on the Maggi because they kept long parts from tipping off of the shaper top after they passed by the last wheel.

I typically buy 1/4" plywood for flat panel doors and my door cutters have 6mm groove. For some species, like alder and maple, the panels need to get skimmed just on the outer 3/8" with a reverse raise cutter. Because the show face is down, I like to use the absolute minimum pressure to avoid marring the face. This feeder did a better job than the Maggi with yellow poly wheels in terms of minimizing too-deep cuts from warped panels using a height that had maybe 1/32" of suspension travel and a fast 50 FPM speed. Supposedly, you can set a speed that it will default to, then dial it up or down as needed. I will play around with that over the next couple of weeks.

Pics just cause they are fun:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fjCO4NbAFEiaqvsf0F6N1m1Y2rfTWMis5dC2QNZMWfCf03lUpr JokVfDVDkxrN9Iv8Dt0d5foYzXuw=w2560-h1440-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5NHs0vEuRd4nYEW-BT4RHVV35OD18HZJwJc9fpPJ0Sohmw8yto6-lL_08zzTDZyB7GN6zC3UOYuQEQ=w2560-h1440-no

[Andy Giddings]

Thanks for the pics and comments JR. Your feedback about the wheels matches what I've found so far - they grip really well and I'm finding 2-3mm of compression is plenty. I've got used to the pivot although its a bit unnerving when the weight of the feeder causes the taper to drop suddenly :-)

[George Yetka]

Resurrecting an old post here but I too am in the market for a feeder. Plan is to use it for 3 maybe 4 machines. Sawstop 3hp/Router table 3-1/4hp/ Jointer 4hp and maybe 3hp bandsaw. Typically I would just get the biggest but is that a waste? Should I get a medium or light duty unit instead based on the machines?

I figure a mag base for the table saw, Clamp on base for router table, And I will need to attach a pedestal to the jointer.

[Dave Sabo]

Suggest you think about what you REALLY need / want a feeder for.

A feeder that is ideal for running door profiles on a router table ain’t gonna work on a bandsaw for resawing and vice versa.

You’ll need a bit more power for a 4hp jointer with 12+” of cut too. A 1/2”hp feeder or bigger isn’t exactly easy to move around either.

[George Yetka]

Suggest you think about what you REALLY need / want a feeder for.

A feeder that is ideal for running door profiles on a router table ain’t gonna work on a bandsaw for resawing and vice versa.

You’ll need a bit more power for a 4hp jointer with 12+” of cut too. A 1/2”hp feeder or bigger isn’t exactly easy to move around either.

Primarily i want it for jointer, thats the tool that hurts my back the most

[Brian Holcombe]

Between the feeder and the stand, they're often pretty heavy, so probably best to commit it to a given tool.

I have the little micro Comatic on my router table, its pretty good for that purpose but it's under-structured for heavier work and it wont run parts faster than the lowest speed setting but otherwise a neat thing to have for that machine.

I've run this little feeder on the tablesaw occasionally but it's such a PITA to swap them back and forth. That said, I'd go heavy enough that you can mount the support pretty far away from the fence so that it has a pretty broad range.

I put the mid sized Comatic bandsaw feeder on the bandsaw, it's great for everything except large resawing. And FYI, most bandsaw fences are not designed for putting the amount of pressure a feeder applies. I had to beef up the pin and bolt that retain my fence to square. The original design would push out of square fairly easily, so I ended up boring out the mount, installing a 16mm shoulder bolt with a 24mm shoulder diameter and replacing the 8mm roll pin with a 13mm solid steel pin. If it breaks again I'll replace it with the proper roller fence. This feeder runs too fast for resawing, even at the slowest speed, even on a 5hp bandsaw with a 1.3TPI carbide blade.

On the restored Martin I have an old Festo feeder that I restored, that thing is amazing. 8 speeds and built like an absolute tank. I replaced the wheels with some new fancy ones from Western Roller and it is smooth as can be. Absolute pleasure to run.

[Rod Sheridan]

Resurrecting an old post here but I too am in the market for a feeder. Plan is to use it for 3 maybe 4 machines. Sawstop 3hp/Router table 3-1/4hp/ Jointer 4hp and maybe 3hp bandsaw. Typically I would just get the biggest but is that a waste? Should I get a medium or light duty unit instead based on the machines?

I figure a mag base for the table saw, Clamp on base for router table, And I will need to attach a pedestal to the jointer.

Hi George, as other have indicated a 1/2 HP standard feeder works fine for saw, jointer and shaper in my shop.

I think it would be too big for a router table.

Mine is mounted on a saw/shaper and I swivel it 180 degrees to run on the jointer outfeed table.

You’re not going to want to try moving it from machine to machine as it will be well over 50 Kg.

Regards, Rod

[Mike Rambour]

I can't recommend it since I don't have yet, but I purchased Auto-Cut on Kickstarter
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/smitool/auto-cut-2023-easy-auto-rip-cut-on-your-table-saw?ref=user_menu
I like many features of it, magnetic hold down to the saw, ability to turn 90 degrees to be used on router tables. Easy on and easy off the table saw, to me it a perfect design but as I said, I don't have it YET so cant say how good it will be in the real world but the marketing is good :) It has been around a few years in different versions, so i felt pretty safe buying it.

[Michael Burnside]

I can't recommend it since I don't have yet, but I purchased Auto-Cut on Kickstarter
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/smitool/auto-cut-2023-easy-auto-rip-cut-on-your-table-saw?ref=user_menu
I like many features of it, magnetic hold down to the saw, ability to turn 90 degrees to be used on router tables. Easy on and easy off the table saw, to me it a perfect design but as I said, I don't have it YET so cant say how good it will be in the real world but the marketing is good :) It has been around a few years in different versions, so i felt pretty safe buying it.

Yea I saw this myself. I'm still pondering the idea after I had to build 12 maple drawer boxes recently. Having to remove the riving knife is about the only thing I didn't love about the design.

[George Yetka]

Thanks for the replies. I think Im going to aim at setting up a post next to my jointer. I will base everything on that.

[Jared Sankovich]

I can't recommend it since I don't have yet, but I purchased Auto-Cut on Kickstarter
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/smitool/auto-cut-2023-easy-auto-rip-cut-on-your-table-saw?ref=user_menu
I like many features of it, magnetic hold down to the saw, ability to turn 90 degrees to be used on router tables. Easy on and easy off the table saw, to me it a perfect design but as I said, I don't have it YET so cant say how good it will be in the real world but the marketing is good :) It has been around a few years in different versions, so i felt pretty safe buying it.

Someone re-invented the failed delta unifeeder

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[Michael Burnside]

What made it "failed"? I know power feeders aren't all that typical on saws or prevalent in a lot of ships, so was it a financial thing or was it design?

[Jared Sankovich]

What made it "failed"? I know power feeders aren't all that typical on saws or prevalent in a lot of ships, so was it a financial thing or was it design?

Failed as in the design just didn't really catch on. The delta was a modern take on the older style feeders.

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[Rod Sheridan]

Yea I saw this myself. I'm still pondering the idea after I had to build 12 maple drawer boxes recently. Having to remove the riving knife is about the only thing I didn't love about the design.

Why do you have to remove the riving knife?

I run a standard feeder on my saw with riving knife installed………Regards, Rod

[Tom Yaegle]

Primarily i want it for jointer, thats the tool that hurts my back the most

I have a PM 4 wheel 1hp up for sale trying to get $800 for it. It is heavy and I would not want to move around on machines. I am in NW PA.

[Michael Burnside]

Why do you have to remove the riving knife?

I run a standard feeder on my saw with riving knife installed………Regards, Rod

If you read the comments/responses by the inventor and watch the videos you'll see the recommended use case is just in front and just behind the blade. It's a whole conversation over there if you're bored, with a long response from the creator as well.

[Rod Sheridan]

If you read the comments/responses by the inventor and watch the videos you'll see the recommended use case is just in front and just behind the blade. It's a whole conversation over there if you're bored, with a long response from the creator as well.

Thanks, I'll look that up............Regards, Rod.

[al ladd]

There are distinct advantages to a fence mounted power feeder. The Unifeeder was awkward, and seemed to rely mostly on adapters made for the unisaw and Rockwell shaper.There was a similar machine called the King feeder. But a fence mounted feeder can be used for wide panels without special accommodations, and the action of pulling work into the fence doesn't cause fence deflection the way it does with a conventional feeder with wheels canted towards the fence from one side or the other of the fence. Both of those older units suffered from now antiquated AC motor systems using gears or adjustable pulleys for transmission and speed change. They'd be pretty cool with the motor system of the baby feeder.

The baby feeder suffers from poor wheels, only 1-1/4" wide, usually made from rubber that hardened over time losing grip. It also is a PIA to adjust, as the canted arm and universal joint requires multiple moves for simple adjustment for height. Most users find it difficult to mount and change from machine to machine, such that there's now a magnetic base for it for sale that costs nearly as much as the feeder. It's slowest speed of 6.5 fpm is too fast for most resawing, and it only bears against that 1-1/4" of height.

The Little Proteus power feeder is powered by a brushless motor drill, and it looks like a toy. But if your need isn't for heavy duty table saw ripping or shaper work it satisfies many task requirements, and mounts in less than a minute in router table, band saw or table saw. For small band saws it's the only feeder that will fit that actually is configured for resawing, and can go down to 2 fpm. With a little ingenuity, it could be mounted on a jointer. It costs less than the baby feeder, and it's American made......