My First Router(s): One midsize model vs trim & large combo

[Chris Lukowski]

Now that my table saw has arrived, my next purchase will likely be a router. My novice hobbyist needs are, for now, pretty basic. I mostly intend to use it for roundover and chamfer edging but might eventually get fancier with ogees and the like. I've been reading into it for a while and there doesn't seem to be a lot of consensus on the topic. On one side many people suggest getting a midsize 2-1/4 HP combo kit with a stationary & plunge base as it's the most versitile. On the other, some say that these types of routers don't excel in router table mounts, and that I'm -really- going to want to do most of my routing on a table anyway. And if I'm going to be routing on a table, it seems to make sense to get on of the 3+HP behemoths that have integrated through-the-table lifts as separate add-on lifts can be expensive. That, combined with a handheld trim router, would seem to cover the bases better without being -too- much more expensive than a single midsize. So, I'm thinking maybe I can start with a DeWalt 611 stationary & plunge kit for my basic edging and get the 3HP Triton and a table when my needs expand? If that's not the wisest route I'm all ears.

[John McClanahan]

I have a DeWalt 611 2 base kit and I like it. I also have a Craftsman variable speed 2 HP plunge router that I found at a local pawn shop to use in my router table until I could decide on a big motor. It's been a couple of years now and I haven't bothered to upgrade the Craftsman. 2 HP works for me.


John

[Ben Rivel]

Id say start with the 3.25HP one in a table (Id recommend going with the tried and true Porter Cable 7518 for that one) and the DeWalt 611 kit for lighter handheld stuff. Youll figure out sooner or later if you could really use a mid level handheld router should the 611 ever not serve you well at a handheld task. FWIW I have a Porter Cable 7518 motor only in an Incra lift in a table, a Bosch 1617 kit for heavier handheld stuff and a DeWalt 611 kit for lighter and trimming work.

[Michael Stein]

I use the Dewalt DWP611 "compact/trim" router far more than I do any other router, especially for edge profiles! I do own an older craftsman (hardly ever use), a Hitach M12V in a table, a Dewalt DW618PK fixed/plunge combo, as well as a Bosch 1611. I prefer that little Dewalt, and probably use it 10/1 over the rest. Of course, it has limitations (1/4" shank, only 1.25hp), but it is a great tool. I used the 1611 in the table for a bit, now it sits around. Planning to sell it and the M12V here very soon, and put that money towards a Triton for the table.

[Jim Becker]

Personally, I feel that one of the mid-range router kits with multiple bases is a good place to start. They are reasonably light for hand-held work (not everything can be done with a table) yet have enough power to work in a table for anything other than swinging the really large cutters. My "kit" is the DW618 and even though I probably use my Festool OF1400 more often for hand-held work these days, that DW618 gets pulled out to do certain things where a smaller, less top-heavy machine is easier to handle...hinge mortises, dovetails with a jig, etc., with the fixed or D-handle base.

[Rich Riddle]

I use a small hand-held router for most hand work and the larger 3.25 router in a table. They're easier to learn how to use and much less expensive. The disadvantage is many of the smaller ones only use 1/4 bits.

[pat warner]

Paralytic analysis.
Get one of the kits (2 castings one motor), play and then make judgements on next machine.

[Mike Henderson]

I've had a 2-1/4HP router in my table for years and never needed more. Unless you're going to be doing some really heavy work, a 2-1/4HP will work fine.

I'd recommend buying a 2-1/4HP kit, which would contain a fixed base and a plunge base as a first router. Over time, if you need it, you can get a small router.

Mike

[Gerry Grzadzinski]

I have both a 2-1/4 and 3-1/4 router mounted to plates that drop into my table. I use the 2-1/4HP router 90% of the time. For basic edge details, it's hard to beat a small trim router.

A 2-1/4 HP kit with two bases will be your most versatile option, and is a good start. Then grab different ones as you need them. Before you know it you'll have 4 or 5. You can't have too many routers. :)

[Marc Burt]

Start with a kit. You'll wind up like the rest of us with 5+ on a shelf before you know it. I made a lot of furniture with a cheapie hitachi 2hp kit.

I love my Festool but that's a bit steep of a buy in for a newbie. Have the big PC router in the table. Keep an eye out for those, you can get just the motor (don't need the base if you're just going to keep it in the table) for around $275 semi regularly.

[Matthew Hills]

If you want versatility, choose the combo kit.
But, if you want to maximize for the stated near-term need, your thought to get the DW611 is sound.


I like trim routers for flush cut bits, light roundovers, light chamfers, and light mortising for hardware.

I like the mid-size routers when I need to take a heavier cut mid-panel (dados and deep mortises), or for dovetail jig.

I use the mid-size in my router table.
I don't have a battleship router. I would get one if I did more heavy profiles.

Matt

[John Lankers]

95% of all router bits are 1" or under and don't require a big monster router to spin them around. I would suggest, as others already have, a mid size router with plunge and fixed base like this one:http://www.dewalt.ca/en-ca/products/power-tools/routers-planers-and-joiners/routers/214-hp-maximum-motor-hp-three-base-router-kit/dw618b3
I believe the kit used to include an edge guide in the past, at least mine did.
When you start buying router bits try to buy bits with 1/2" shank rather than 1/4" if possible as they lock better in the collet and don't vibrate as much and try not to buy whole kits as they usually only include very few bits that you actually use and are a waste of money in my experience.

[Chris Lukowski]

Related question: What kind of cuts call for plunge bases and would a 1.25HP trim router with 1/4" bits be up to them? I see even trim routers come in combo base kits now.

[John Lankers]

A key hole in the back of a picture frame comes to mind, although it is possible but cutting precise mortises with a fixed base router can be a bear.
With access to a single router I wouldn't limit myself to 1/4" shanks which would be IMO the one major drawback of a trim router. Also, the lack of power to spin, even insert, any door or raised panel bit or bowl making bit.
They sure have their place but they are not that versatile. You may also want to watch Gary Rogowsky on YouTube.
These are only a few ideas popping up before my morning coffee :rolleyes:

[Curt Harms]

I think it depends on what kind of work you plan to do. A 2+ h.p. kit is probably the most versatile. The small 'trim' routers are handy for things like hinge mortises but as noted are limited to 1/4" shank bits. A 2 + h.p. motor in a table is perfectly adequate for edge profiles, rabbets, slots and such. If trying to swing something like a 3"+ horizontal panel raiser you'd need to take several shallow passes and a 3 h.p.+ machine would be a much better choice. I use either a Bosch Colt or 3.25 h.p. table mounted machine 90% of the time but that's because I haven't been doing larger work where a hand held router works best.

[Chris Fournier]

I'd advise that you pick up a laminate trimmer and a 3.25 HP router. You will have a tool at each end of the router continuum and be able to handle all work from light handheld to heavy table based cuts.

[Stan Calow]

My first was a 1 3/4 hp router, and I found it adequate for everything that I as a hobbyist need. It goes from table to hand easily. The thing is, if you stick with it, you'll end up with several routers eventually.

[Cary Falk]

I have a Hitachi 3hp for my table. I don't use it much since I got a shaper. I have a DeWalt 618 kit that I love for everything but I am waiting for the VS to go out like everbody else. The smaller 616? non VS router fits the bases also so I am covered there. I have 2 Dewalt 611 kits that I like the plunge base for shelf pins. I have a Ridgid and PC trim router for roundovers and such. The downfall of the trim routers is the 1/4" limitation. I have a bunch of the PC 1-3/4 hp. routers. I hate them but they work great for dedicated dovetail jigs where I don't have to change out the bits. I have purchased quite a few of them on CL for cheap so everybody must hat them also. WOW , I used to laugh at people with a lot of routers. Looking at what I have accumulated I guess I have to laugh at myself.

What plunge bases are good for: shelf pins, stopped dados, flutes, circle jigs, mortises, inlays

[Chris Lukowski]

Well, if there's agreement that a palm router is good to have and that it is at least as good if not better than a two-handed midrange as far as edge rounding / chamfering is concerned I might just start with that and wait for a table model once I save up more, probably within the next 6-12 months. I just can't splurge for the table and large model right away and I wanted to make sure the small trim router woudln't be rendered useless by a mid-large model once I could afford it. Edging is all I plan to do for the moment anyway, apart from some dado grooving here and there if my table saw would be too awkward for it. Basic projects, shelving, case storage w/ drawers (using pocket holes for joinery, nothing fancy), and the like to start with, and nearly all of those need edging work.

[glenn bradley]

Related question: What kind of cuts call for plunge bases and would a 1.25HP trim router with 1/4" bits be up to them? I see even trim routers come in combo base kits now.

I know people sing the praises of compact routers in plunge bases. I'm one of them but, they should not be abused by being tasked with larger work. T he smaller frame and the 1/4" shank impart runout and chatter when overtaxed.

For a first router a 2+ HP combo unit will serve you best; big enough for serious work but, not so expensive as the eventual stable of routers many of us end up with. For higher end work quality stick to 1/2" shank bits whenever possible. It may have been in Wood Magazine but, someone showed similar profiles cut under similar conditions with the only variable being the shank diameter of the bit. Not hard to see the difference.

There are definitely times when 1/4" shanks (or even 1/8" shanks) are the answer but, we're talking in generalities here.

[Jim Becker]

Related question: What kind of cuts call for plunge bases and would a 1.25HP trim router with 1/4" bits be up to them? I see even trim routers come in combo base kits now.
Chris, Trim routers can have a place in a woodworking shop, but unless you are building small and delicate projects most of the time, they are not going to serve you well for "serious" edge work and plunge work. You really want to be working with 1/2" shank (or 8mm shank) cutters for general woodworking work when you can...they are much stronger and can take more pressure without breaking. IMHO. I look at trim routers as "something nice to have at some point"...but that's me.

I'll go back to my original recommendation...shared by several others...start out with one of the mid-size kits for best value and best versatility.

[Rich Engelhardt]

I have the DeWalt 611PK. Wonderful small router with "big router" power.
At first I was concerned about it taking only 1/4" shank bits, but, that's really a non issue.

A Porter Cable 690 makes a great all around and/or first router. It's roughly the same power as the smaller/handier 611, but, it has both 1/4" and 1/2" collets.

[Mike Null]

I have a 3 hp in my table and use it for more than 90% of my work. I have a 1 1/4 hp Makita plunge unit that is very handy but I don't use it much. I have wished that I had bought a trim router instead but I'd still use my table router for most of my work.

[Robert Parent]

If I could only have one router it would be the 2.5 HP combo kit (Bosch is my preferred color). However, I also use a laminate router lots so that would be on my short list. The combo kit really gives most folks the most bang for the buck.

Robert

[Rick Moyer]

If you get either trim or 3.5 HP, you'll be wishing for the other very soon. That's why most (including me) will recommend the 2.5 HP combo. This will give you two bases (fixed and plunge), as well as two collets for 1/4 and 1/2 bits. Nothing is ideal, that's why many have added more routers over time, but the combo kit will be your best option.

[Curt Harms]

One thing no one has mentioned re plunge bases. They're not all created equal. I started out with a PC-690 kit. The fixed base was fine the plunge base was awful. The springs seemed too stiff and the plunge mechanism would stick. I now have a PC-89X fixed/plunge and the plunge base is fine, it seems identical to the plunge base on the DeWalt 618.

[Chris Lukowski]

If you get either trim or 3.5 HP, you'll be wishing for the other very soon. That's why most (including me) will recommend the 2.5 HP combo. This will give you two bases (fixed and plunge), as well as two collets for 1/4 and 1/2 bits. Nothing is ideal, that's why many have added more routers over time, but the combo kit will be your best option.

This is the thing I keep going back and forth on, and why I wanted to tap the experience of people who own all kinds of routers who have a clear idea of how they'd do it again if starting from square one. The thing I keep reading in reviews is that the midrange 2.5HP routers are not designed to do much work in a table, with most being unable to adjust from above the table via holes in the router base, needing an expensive lift for convenient adjustment, the inability to conveniently mount/dismount from the table for handheld use, and/or having ventilation systems designed with the assumption that they'd be used "top-side up", and that using them extensively in bases will eventually cause failure (something I've read about the DW718 more than once).

Now, if in your experience these types of complaints apply more to commercial applications or heavy duty woodworking involving a dozen hours a week of use, then let me know since that is not how I'll be using it. Hell, if I can find time two weekends a month to work on projects I'll consider myself lucky.

[Prashun Patel]

Start with a trim router. I really like the DW611. I'd actually buy that one in the combo kit with the add'l plunge base.

When you get your table, get a +3hp router motor for it, without any bases. You'll appreciate the extra power when using larger bits.

Finally, if you find that you need an inbetween router, get a 1.75 or 2hp version with a plunge base only.

The experience of others and yours may be different, but in my shop, I have a shelf dedicated to unused extra bases.

[Mike Kees]

Hi Chris. You have asked for advice for a first router. Reading this thread it seems to me that you got it. I would add my vote to the "howling chorus" to go buy a 2.5 kit with two bases. I have a Porter cable "stable" in my shop,7519,2-3 690s. One makita and the small trim dewalt. I am a full time carpenter the 690 is the one I use to cut out window openings framing. I also use it for router table work,have for years. Yes midsize routers will stand up for everything you need for hobby work. Good luck.

[lowell holmes]

I can't imagine a 3.25 hp router. What are you going to do with it?

I agree with Mike. I also use my 690 in a table. My go-to router is a Bosch Colt.

[Chris Fournier]

This is the thing I keep going back and forth on, and why I wanted to tap the experience of people who own all kinds of routers who have a clear idea of how they'd do it again if starting from square one. The thing I keep reading in reviews is that the midrange 2.5HP routers are not designed to do much work in a table, with most being unable to adjust from above the table via holes in the router base, needing an expensive lift for convenient adjustment, the inability to conveniently mount/dismount from the table for handheld use, and/or having ventilation systems designed with the assumption that they'd be used "top-side up", and that using them extensively in bases will eventually cause failure (something I've read about the DW718 more than once).

Now, if in your experience these types of complaints apply more to commercial applications or heavy duty woodworking involving a dozen hours a week of use, then let me know since that is not how I'll be using it. Hell, if I can find time two weekends a month to work on projects I'll consider myself lucky.

I consider the 2.5 hp kits to be jack of/all master of none tools - not enough poke for the big stuff and terribly unwieldy for for finer edge treatments and laminate trimming. Maybe I do more chamfering, radiused edges and laminate trimming than others here but for these very common operations the palm router excels and delivers premium quality because it is easiest to control. I would hate to have to use a 2.5 hp router for these operations.

For mortises, heavier pattern routing and edge profiling the 3.25 hp router is great although I tend to use a pin router, mortising table, or shaper in my shop at this point in time because they are available to me.

Everyone has their own way of working but buying at either end of the router envelope lets you work the middle ground efficiently - win win. Buy in the middle of the router offerings and the lighter and heavier processes suffer - lose lose. My opinion, best of luck with your purchase.

[lowell holmes]

Paralytic analysis.
Get one of the kits (2 castings one motor), play and then make judgements on next machine.

I had to look the words up before I knew what you meant.

I think your saying buy one and see what happens. I agree. I love my Bosch Colt. It is my go to router. Big horsepower in a hand held machine is scary.

[Chris Lukowski]

I had to look the words up before I knew what you meant.

I think your saying but one and see what happens. I agree. I love my Bosch Colt. It is my go to router. Big horsepower in a hand held machine is scary.

Do you have any qualms about using the 1/4" shank bits instead of the 1/2", at least in terms of flush cuts, roundovers, and chamfers?

[lowell holmes]

NO! I'm not at all concerned about it. :)

I have larger routers and sometimes use them. In my opinion, I believe you are over-thinking the issue.
If you know someone with routers, go try one out before you buy.

The bits in a router do not do the work that a stationary shaper has to do.

[Robert Parent]

I'll echo the 'what would you do with a 3+HP router?" statement above.... I have a half dozen routers with a 2.5 HP being the largest and have never needed anything larger. If you need that kind of power in a router for any extended work you really need to be looking at a shaper and not a router.

For router table use I prefer the plunge base. I tried the through the table adjustment bases and found them to be a pain. It's much easier to use the plunge adjustment to get close and turn the fine adjust knob to get it exact.

You stated that you are a doing this for a hobby. Get the combo kit and a laminate down the road. If you are doing mostly small items then reverse the order and get the laminate router first.

Robert

[Jon Shank]

I have to agree with the consensus, 2 or 2.5hp with 2 bases. It'll do everything a trimmer will but the trimmer won't do everything the mid sized will do. I have a Hitachi M12V, 2hp, fairly small and light for handheld use, not nearly as light and easy as the Colt I use for little stuff, but not a bear at all. It goes in the table just fine, I leave the fixed base in the table, not quite as convenient as the plunge, but this vintage of M12 doesn't have the above the table adjustment for the plunge anyway, so not a big difference and I feel like the lock up/accuracy of the fixed base is better even if it is a little figity sometimes. It has done everything I've asked of it. It has bogged down on occasion with some bigger bits, but it's always gotten it done. I could see a big router for the table somewhere in the future, but for my hobby use (and switching to more hand tools at that) I can't see it being a priority any time soon. I don't own one but I've used a big 3hp unit before and it is a beast if you try to use it for hand held work, table only as far as I'm concerned. The trimmers are great for the light work they are designed for, really handy, I would put one on the short list after you have all the capability you need for the kind of work you want to do. But if I was only going to have one it would definitely be the mid sized.

Jon

[Jim Dwight]

I have an old Ryobi R-500, 13.3 amp motor in my router table. I think it's fine, I see no need for a 15A motor but for purely router table work, it is a good choice. I would probably get the PC since I think my smaller 690 chucks fit it. But the Milwaukee is also reportedly very good and the Hitachi plunge is a great buy. But I wouldn't get the "monster" router first. It is a bit large for hand held work.

I also have a Bosch colt and use it a lot for small roundover and chamfer cuts. But the chuck is so-so and that plus the motor size limits it to really light duty. The newer DeWalt may have a better chuck but it is still a small motor not compatible with larger cuts.

I used my PC 690s for everything for several years. I have two and 4 bases. One used to be speed controled but that failed and I wired it for single speed rather than buy the board to fix it. I have a separate speed controller I can use for the rare case I need to reduce the speed. I used one of my PCs for router table use including with big 3 inch bits. You have to slow those down. You have to take an additional bite or two with a mid-sized router than a bigger one but It will spin the big bits fine. It will do the cope and stick cuts in one pass - you wouldn't want to have to do that in multiple passes. So the mid sized is big enough to do anything the really big ones do except that they need to cut in smaller bites with panel raising bits. They also do the little cuts the Colt will do, they are just heavier so not quite as handy.

I think the right path is mid sized first, then decide if you want a shaper for the big cuts or a bigger motor in a router table. I would get the Colt sized router last. The only real advantage is it is light. The disadvantage of mine is a marginal chuck and a pretty light duty motor. If you push this sort of router to do a bigger cut than it can easily do the bit may slip or the motor get hot. You may wish you used a mid sized. Properly used they are fine but they are not all around routers.

[Ken Combs]

I took a different tack. While I once had a big router in Norm's table and it worked, I sold it during a cross-country move. When It came time to replace that function, I found that a small Grizzly shaper was a better fit for me. It comes with a router collet for 1/2" bits and smaller shaper cutters are not that much more costly than larger router bits. It costs about $200 more than a router, but there is no lift or table expense, so it's about a wash. This was in about 2001.

Add a smaller trim router and you're set. Of course, budget and desire permitting, you can always get a midsize too, (or instead of the trim) if needed.

I still think the old standby PC 690 is hard to beat!

I've now added a 690 kit, an 890, a smaller Dewalt plunge (1/4"only), and an old PC310 and a 7310. Yeah, I like routers.

But, for most edge work, the shaper gets the nod.

Much quieter! The only drawback is it doesn't like small bits, just not fast enough.

[Jared Sankovich]

If I were to start from nothing, I'd get a small 1.x hp multi base kit and a 2.x hp multi base kit. I've done the same work with my bosh 1617 as my pc7518, though it might take a extra pass or two.

In full disclosure I got tired of routers for any significant stock removal and ended up with a 3hp and 5hp shaper.