Best lathe out there

[Bill Jobe]

Those of you without the financial restraints most others struggle with, what would you recomend as a good, solid wood lathe and chuck without wasteful options.
Ok, how about a budget of $3,000.

[John Sincerbeaux]

Sorry Bill,
$3000 won't get you even close to "the best lathe out there".

You can certainly buy a lathe, chuck, and some turning gouges for under 3k, but that would be a different title.

[Bill Jobe]

Ok, understood.

What would be the best investment under 3k? 4k? 5k?

No frills. Just a good solid machine.

[Bill Blasic]

The new Jet 18" over the bed for under $3,000 and Powermatic 3520b for under $4,000 on sale. That is as far as I go as I am a cast iron person.

[John Keeton]

I love my Laguna Revo 1836. You may want to take a look at this review - http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?241930-A-Hands-On-review-of-the-Laguna-Revo-1836

[Steve Nix]

IMO, with a $3000 budget, the Jet 1642 for about $2300 leaves you $6-700 got accessories. Good solid lathe with 5 year warranty.

[Joe Kieve]

Definitely not within your 3k-5k budget but you said "best". Check out "Robust-American Beauty" lathe and talk to folks who own one.

[Roger Chandler]

The warranty period is longer for the Powermatic and Jet. They are both good lathes....I have turned on both numerous times. I owned the Grizzly G0698 18/47 and sold it to our club, it is still going strong, no issues for 7 years now. They upgraded that model with the G0733 18/47.

I have the Grizzly G0766 22/42 in my shop now, and have put it through its paces with some heavy use for nearly a year. Not a single mechanical issue with my unit, and it is a horse of a lathe. Grizzly did upgrade the banjo to a much larger and beefier unit, but all the 0766's come with that upgrade now. There have been a couple who had to replace the speed control pot, but Grizzly took care of that. Mine has never had a problem. Would I recommend the G0766? You better believe it! At $1575.00, there is not a better value for a large lathe out there.....then you have the cash to get accessories.

My G0766 performs superbly......power, features, size.....it has a lot going for it. My G0766 performs as well as any PM 3520b I have ever used.

[John K Jordan]

Hello Bill.

You don't give much to go on. Best for what? What do you want to do with it? How much space do you have? Do you have good 220v power? Do you have fork lift access into your shop or have to carry everything down a flight of stairs?

There are lots of capable lathes and almost any will work. Deciding on the perfect one is usually a matter of balancing the limitations. Some limitations are the swing, the bed length the size and weight, the horsepower, the controls, and always, the budget.

A good lathe for someone who wants to make pens in an apartment might be useless for someone set on turning big green wood. You will be unhappy with a 16" lathe if you want to turn 20" platters. (Remember you can always turn miniatures on a huge lathe but you can't turn big things on a small lathe!)

Whether an option is "wasteful" depends on whether you need or want it. Some expensive options, like a bed extension, might be unnecessary unless turning long things. Almost nobody that has used it thinks electronic variable speed is a wasteful option.

Also, keep in mind that people will generally recommend what they have in their shop unless they are unhappy with it. In my shop I have a Powermatic 3520b with bed extension. It is a "perfect" lathe capable of turning "almost" anything. I have a couple of Jet 1642s. They are wonderful, one was my primary lathe for years. I also keep some Jet mini lathes. Hate to be without one if I want to demonstrate where I have to take a lathe with me or want to lend one out - excellent if space is a problem and you are happy making smaller things. There are many other great lathes that I can't possibly recommend since I have no experience with them.

When budgeting, be sure to consider a good way to sharpen tools, even before buying a chuck. And I'm sure you know you can easily spend another 3-5K+ on lathe tools and accessories. I would hate to be without a bandsaw. And both electric and gas chainsaws. And...

Setting up a turning shop is discussed fairly often in forums like this one. You might get good ideas from several recent threads if you want to do a little research. If you don't have time for research, few people I know are unhappy with a Powermatic 3520, even a well used "A" model. I have seen the 3520B model at turning schools and that's the one often supplied for the pros at symposiums.

JKJ

[Dave Fritz]

Robust has a new lathe at about that price point. http://www.turnrobust.com/lathe-overview/scout/

Personally I had a Jet 1642 and it did all I wanted but I decided on a Robust Liberty and I'm a happy camper. IMO you can't beat Robust for an American made small shop product.

[david privett]

I am in the boat with the g0766 more bang for your buck. they got the bugs out now so it should be good to go.

[Bill Jobe]

I have no interest in turning pens....at this point.
I would like a lathe that can turn big bowls and tall large diameter vases. Nothing less than 1 1/2 hp. I would prefer to stick with 110 but I have a son-in-law with an industrial electrician license.

A couple of you mentioned a 14". I'm not sure I'd be happy with that after the new wears off. Don't get me wrong, I've been using a HF 10" and a 14" would feel great for sure. But I think I'd prefer something a little bigger.

Thanks for all the great feedback so far. I'm willing to listen to as many opinions as I can get. I have the money for a high dollar piece but nether the room nor means of moving a big lathe around. There have been several suggestions that don't weigh a ton and I'm going to take my time and do lots of research before I buy. Also there's a turners club in my area. I think I'll get involved there, perhaps even be able to try out the machines you guys have suggested.

Thanks again. Bill

[Bill Jobe]

The new Jet 18" over the bed for under $3,000 and Powermatic 3520b for under $4,000 on sale. That is as far as I go as I am a cast iron person.

You mean you turn cast iron? I did that for most of the 34 years I spent in the shop. I ran CNCs for quite a number of years but the old Gisholt manual was my favorite of all machines I ran. Loved the angled indexing handles..and there was just something about the way they snapped in place when you'd index them hard.
Although, the freedom to write my own programs on the CNCs was fun, too.

[Bill Jobe]

The warranty period is longer for the Powermatic and Jet. They are both good lathes....I have turned on both numerous times. I owned the Grizzly G0698 18/47 and sold it to our club, it is still going strong, no issues for 7 years now. They upgraded that model with the G0733 18/47.

I have the Grizzly G0766 22/42 in my shop now, and have put it through its paces with some heavy use for nearly a year. Not a single mechanical issue with my unit, and it is a horse of a lathe. Grizzly did upgrade the banjo to a much larger and beefier unit, but all the 0766's come with that upgrade now. There have been a couple who had to replace the speed control pot, but Grizzly took care of that. Mine has never had a problem. Would I recommend the G0766? You better believe it! At $1575.00, there is not a better value for a large lathe out there.....then you have the cash to get accessories.

My G0766 performs superbly......power, features, size.....it has a lot going for it. My G0766 performs as well as any PM 3520b I have ever used.

I will definitely give that one a close look. If I can get a good solid machine with that much swing for under 2k, there's no reason to spend more. And I lack a bandsaw so the Grizzly would leave me plenty of $s to get a solid saw as well.

While I'm on the subject, what is a reasonably good band saw and at what price range considering the size bowls I want to turn?

[Roger Chandler]

I have the Grizzly G0555LX 14" saw, which is the best 14" class saw I have ever used. I also have a big Jet 18" bandsaw as well. I use the 14" Grizz most of the time. With a good blade, and the riser block kit, it will cut most bowl blanks with ease. The LX has the cast iron wheels, but the regular 555 has aluminum cast wheels. I advise on the Cast iron wheels, more torque in the cut, and very smooth. Cost about $549

[John K Jordan]

I have no interest in turning pens....at this point.
...perhaps even be able to try out the machines you guys have suggested.

Bill, where do you live? I suspect if there are turners in your area they would gladly invite you to their shops to try out their lathes. If you happen to be in East TN I'm almost always here and have the PM3520b and the Jet1642 set up all the time.

I rarely turn pens either. However, I have had several kids (10-18 years old) come to my shop to make pens for presents for family or teachers. The Pens for Troops is a worthwhile thing too. I also make many smaller things like boxes, tops, ornaments, and magic wands. It is so nice to have everything needed at hand to turn anything we decide to make.

I occasionally turn long things like tool handles for the farm so I personally like a lathe with a long bed (I can turn a 52" spindle on the PM). I occasionally do a large bowl or platter so the 20" swing is also nice and plenty big enough for me. Note that you do need extra working space around a lathe to turn big bowls gracefully so that might be a challenge for a small shop.

There are lathes that make big bowl turning easier. A used Stubby might work for you. Some people build their own: http://www.winburn.com/BowlLathe.asp

One some lathes you can turn outboard for a huge swing. The lathes like the Powermatic let you turn the headstock around or slide down to the end - the PM bed extension can be mounted low on the end of the lathe and includes a tool rest extension to provide a pretty big swing. (Allows turning a 38" diameter, theoretically!)

Besides the swing you need to manage the vibration from a heavy chunk of out-of-balance wood. The heavier lathes do help a lot but weight can often be added to lighter lathes to dampen the vibration. There are other ways too - a friend of mine has turned quite large bowls on a very old and relatively small Delta lathe. He turned outboard, built a free-standing tool rest, and used long pipe clamps to attach the lathe rigidly to his garage walls. Worked like a charm!

BTW, you can get a pretty heavy lathe into nearly any shop with enough people! I think the PM3520b is almost 700 lbs. However, it comes apart into six major pieces. When I got mine I had help loading it into a trailer but I unloaded, set it up, and moved it into place by myself. Carefully.

JKJ

[david privett]

look at the grizzly g0513anv at one time it was marked down with free shipping . It is a kinda bare bones larger saw with plenty of power

[Russell Neyman]

Good luck discerning an answer from the 199 different responses you get to your question.

[Bill Jobe]

Good luck discerning an answer from the 199 different responses you get to your question.

I'm please that so many turners have given their opinions.

[Gregory Cowart]

I had a Oneway 2436 and it is a fine machine. I bought it used and it was great. Fast forward to today. I purchased a Powermatic 4224b and thought I was getting a lesser machine. Not so. It is heavy. Real heavy. It has a vacuum chuck already built in. The lights that are attached are great. AND the ability to move the headstock down to the end of the bed makes turning a bowel easier than leaning way over. I am impressed with the Powermatic.

[Thomas Heck]

I just got a woodcraft flyer. The new Nova Galaxi is on sale for $1999. It's normally $2499.

[Jamie Straw]

I will definitely give that one a close look. If I can get a good solid machine with that much swing for under 2k, there's no reason to spend more. And I lack a bandsaw so the Grizzly would leave me plenty of $s to get a solid saw as well.

While I'm on the subject, what is a reasonably good band saw and at what price range considering the size bowls I want to turn?

Grizzly has a couple of really nice 17" bandsaws also (as long as you're at the showroom:D:D)

[William Bachtel]

How about trying to find a like new lathe, Powermatic 3520b, mine is 7 years old and not a oz of trouble.

[john taliaferro]

You could always build it the way you want ,that's what i did then didn't feel bad bout spending on tools . Mines a 1 1/2 8 cause that is what my southbend is and seams to be a standard large size . The second thing was to build a jib crane off the back .

[Bill Jobe]

The warranty period is longer for the Powermatic and Jet. They are both good lathes....I have turned on both numerous times. I owned the Grizzly G0698 18/47 and sold it to our club, it is still going strong, no issues for 7 years now. They upgraded that model with the G0733 18/47.

I have the Grizzly G0766 22/42 in my shop now, and have put it through its paces with some heavy use for nearly a year. Not a single mechanical issue with my unit, and it is a horse of a lathe. Grizzly did upgrade the banjo to a much larger and beefier unit, but all the 0766's come with that upgrade now. There have been a couple who had to replace the speed control pot, but Grizzly took care of that. Mine has never had a problem. Would I recommend the G0766? You better believe it! At $1575.00, there is not a better value for a large lathe out there.....then you have the cash to get accessories.

My G0766 performs superbly......power, features, size.....it has a lot going for it. My G0766 performs as well as any PM 3520b I have ever used.


Wow, 3hp. That's a lot of torque for $1,725.
Why don't manufacturers offer a jog or at least an rpm under 10 or so?
The G0766 does have ample swing and a bed length to cover taller vases.

[Roger Chandler]

Wow, 3hp. That's a lot of torque for $1,725.
Why don't manufacturers offer a jog or at least an rpm under 10 or so?
The G0766 does have ample swing and a bed length to cover taller vases.
Bill, the Powermatic and Jet lathes have the VFD programmed to cut out at 50 rpm, same with the Grizz 0766. The reason they do this for the most part, is that theoretically, if one runs at very slow rpm's for a while, motor overheating could be a problem. I personally have never had either of my Grizzly lathes overheat whatsoever, but I usually sand at about 120 rpm, and when I apply finish on the lathe, I am usually at about 80 rpm or sometimes 60 rpm.

I have turned on 9 different 3520b lathes and several Jet lathes........some of the multiple times, and honestly, my G0766 performs just as good as any of those ever did, and better than 4 of the 3520bs. One of those 3520b's had a serious thud when the speed dial was turned down, and the spindle comes to a stop; and one of those 3520b's was as smooth and quiet as any lathe I have ever used. It belongs to Dr. Joe Glick, a fellow club member. One of the clubs I belong to has a 3520b as its lathe for demonstrations.........that lathe has some issues, and it was purchased by the club new a few years ago, but it has a handwheel that comes off, and the quill lockdown screw has broken off, so the quill cannot be locked down without a wrench on the nut someone put on it , so one never knows.

[John K Jordan]

...One of the clubs I belong to has a 3520b as its lathe for demonstrations.........that lathe has some issues, and it was purchased by the club new a few years ago, but it has a handwheel that comes off, and the quill lockdown screw has broken off, so the quill cannot be locked down without a wrench on the nut someone put on it , so one never knows.

Is it possible that lathe has suffered some abuse?

When more than one person uses a thing no one is ever responsible for breaking something or fixing it. Tools in schools seem to get the worst abuse possible.

If a new quill lockdown is too expensive seems like someone could make a replacement easily enough from a bolt and a tack weld. I seldom use the lockdown on my lathes.

JKJ

[Roger Chandler]

Is it possible that lathe has suffered some abuse?

When more than one person uses a thing no one is ever responsible for breaking something or fixing it. Tools in schools seem to get the worst abuse possible.

If a new quill lockdown is too expensive seems like someone could make a replacement easily enough from a bolt and a tack weld. I seldom use the lockdown on my lathes.

JKJTrue John, sometimes abuse and or lack of proper maintenance is an issue. I have also read posts from turners who had to replace motors/vfd's on the 3520b's and Jets, but that is the exception, not the rule. Any make lathe with electronics can develop an issue, just like most Reeves drive units need periodic maintenance to keepthem going, and yet they still have failures from time to time. Sometimes it is user technique .....you know, the "hurc & jerk" or "slam & bam" heavy handed style of working that some use that dents, scratches and abuses the machine.

The last demo I did was on a fellow club members 3520b, and it really needed some cleaning, maintenace and some lubrication in the quill and other moving parts of the banjo assembly. I never let my machines get into that shape! :eek:

[Jim Sevey]

G0766- I agree. Plenty left for accessories...or a bandsaw. My G0766 has not disappointed me from spindles to bowls to pens. I've turned hundreds of pens. It's a kind of funny sight to see a tiny pen spinning on such a massive lathe but the precision and solid components allow for very close work. If money was of no consequence I would go with the Robust- not because I need it but because I want it. Robust is a work of art and American made. But for me- money is a serious consideration. Happy, happy, happy with my Griz.

[Justin Stephen]

I have been a happy Powermatic 3520B owner for several years now and, for many years, it was widely considered to be the "best buy" among large lathes. However, if I was buying today I would be looking very long and hard at the Laguna 1836. In fact, I have even considered (although not yet seriously) selling my 3520B for the Laguna, mostly because of the tailstock riser kit available for the Laguna but not for the 3520B (although the larger 4224 has one) as well as a few other, less critical design issues. I keep hoping that PM will release a tailstock riser (along with a longer extension to accommodate it) for the 3520B. I mostly turn large platters and segmented pieces to the extra beefiness of the 3520B over the Laguna doesn't weigh into it much (pun intended).

[John K Jordan]

... I keep hoping that PM will release a tailstock riser (along with a longer extension to accommodate it) for the 3520B.

Would it be reasonable to fabricate one? For $800 you can have a lot of cutting and welding done even if you can't do it yourself. Even easier if you can find a junk tailstock for the locking mechanism and base. The longer extension would be another job but I can imagine a strong steel extension extension block. I have the extension for the 3520b and it is certainly heavy but nothing that couldn't be held securely. In fact, I can imagine just fabricating an longer extension from scratch, from mild steel instead of cast iron. (Things like that got a lot easier since I got a good plasma cutter, welders, and milling machine.)

Just wondering...

JKJ

[Justin Stephen]

Would it be reasonable to fabricate one? For $800 you can have a lot of cutting and welding done even if you can't do it yourself. Even easier if you can find a junk tailstock for the locking mechanism and base. The longer extension would be another job but I can imagine a strong steel extension extension block. I have the extension for the 3520b and it is certainly heavy but nothing that couldn't be held securely. In fact, I can imagine just fabricating an longer extension from scratch, from mild steel instead of cast iron. (Things like that got a lot easier since I got a good plasma cutter, welders, and milling machine.)

Just wondering...


Personally I have no idea, although the thought has occurred to me before. I have no experience in metalworking at all.

It does make me wonder if PM is deliberately not releasing one due to fears that it would cut into their likely more lucrative 4224 sales. That said, between the Laguna and the new Grizzly, their 3520B sales had to have gone down quite a bit in the last year or two.

[Gordon Prill]

I'll second the Laguna Revo 1836. I got mine a few weeks ago and love it. No problems with assembly or set up. $2723 and using the Nova G3 chuck I already had. The chuck is holding up fine with the larger pieces, but might get a oneway talon or stronghold later. I'm really happy overall with the lathe. Nice banjo, tool rest and tailstock.

[David C. Roseman]

Bill, all good suggestions in this thread. I happen to agree with Roger and others that the Grizzly G0766 is a very good lathe, at a remarkable price. I've had one for a year and it's been a reliable workhorse. Seven other members of our local club bought it as well last year and seem equally pleased. I also happen to have its "little brother", the G0733, which is an 18 x 47 lathe. It has performed perfectly for the last three years.

Don't know if you're far enough along to decide, but I coincidentally have a "customer appreciation" coupon that Grizzly emailed me recently. It's good for 10% off. I don't need anything right now, so if you do want to go with the G0766 (or for that matter, their new G0800 monster), I'd be happy to send you the code. Just PM me. Grizzly tells me it's fine to transfer it to a buddy. The catch is, it expires Aug 31, so you'd need to use it by then. Grizzly does not send out coupons often; maybe once a year.

[Bill Jobe]

Bill, all good suggestions in this thread. I happen to agree with Roger and others that the Grizzly G0766 is a very good lathe, at a remarkable price. I've had one for a year and it's been a reliable workhorse. Seven other members of our local club bought it as well last year and seem equally pleased. I also happen to have its "little brother", the G0733, which is an 18 x 47 lathe. It has performed perfectly for the last three years.

Don't know if you're far enough along to decide, but I coincidentally have a "customer appreciation" coupon that Grizzly emailed me recently. It's good for 10% off. I don't need anything right now, so if you do want to go with the G0766 (or for that matter, their new G0800 monster), I'd be happy to send you the code. Just PM me. Grizzly tells me it's fine to transfer it to a buddy. The catch is, it expires Aug 31, so you'd need to use it by then. Grizzly does not send out coupons often; maybe once a year.

Sure wish now I'd taken you up on your offer to give me your 10% off coupon, David.
Lots of things going on in my life right now and I just lost my mom about a month ago. I'm having an even harder time than usual making a decision.
Anyway, I really appreciate your offer. Just wish my head had been a little clearer.

[David C. Roseman]

Very sorry about your mom, Bill.

[Bill Jobe]

Very sorry about your mom, Bill.

Thank you, David.

[Tim Passmore]

I'm ready to make the jump from my Nova and I'm leaning heavily towards the G 0766. A lot of other turning accessories can be purchased with the difference in price between the Grizzly and the PM. Does Grizzly ever offer sales or free delivery?

[John Grace]

You're right Greg...I just did my own double-check and wasn't aware that the 4224b came with the vacuum unit built in. Great...just more to think about down the road when my NOVA gives up the ghost.

[Brian Deakin]

Please see link below

A real man, s lathe

http://www.vb36.com/vb36-picture-video/pictures-vb36-woodturning-lathe.html

[Bill Jobe]

I have a lot of green wood sealed and stacked in my unheated garage and need to make room for a new lathe.
Is it ok to store the wood outside, up off the ground and covered with a tarp or wood I be making a mistake?

Also, scored some pear and butternut a couple of days ago and I am chomping at the bit to turn some, so yesterday I cut a short piece of the butternut and made a bowl. It spattered me as I turned it and I could hear it crack a couple of times. When I stopped the lathe I was surprised to learn that it cracked laterally instead of the usual way. I decided to finish it with Fornby's tung oil finish and it seems to have settled down. Just experimenting.
Back to storing outside. We usually get sub-zero temps here in the winter...20-30 below at times. Will my wood be ok drying outside? I should mention that we often times get summer temps 100+ F

[Bill Jobe]

Forgot to mention that I have quite a bit of kiln dried wood as well as some segmented logs. Can they be stored outside?

I gotta mention the guy who gave me the butternut and pear....the friend of a friend....cut longer logs into usable lengths and sealed them with wood sealer. Heck of a nice guy. When asked what he wanted for his trouble he said that he usually asks the guy to who he gives wood to turn him a.bowl. But, he said, I have lots of bowls. Just take the wood and have fun.

[Clay Fails]

I have only ever owned one lathe, and it's only been for 9 months. After significant research I went with the Robust AB 3 HP standard bed, and have been more than happy with it. Of course I have not yet scratched the surface of the machine's capabilities, but at this point I can't imagine ever needing anything more. I can turn the largest bowl I would ever want to, all the way down to bottle stoppers, pens, small spindle parts. Does it all with ease.

[Roger Chandler]

I have only ever owned one lathe, and it's only been for 9 months. After significant research I went with the Robust AB 3 HP standard bed, and have been more than happy with it. Of course I have not yet scratched the surface of the machine's capabilities, but at this point I can't imagine ever needing anything more. I can turn the largest bowl I would ever want to, all the way down to bottle stoppers, pens, small spindle parts. Does it all with ease.

Clay, you are one of the rare and lucky ones........you got the Rolls Royce right out of the gate! :D I would gladly have said the Robust American Beauty for the best lathe out there if the OP's qualifications of budget were not included in his post.....I have turned on the AB, and a fine machine it is indeed! Budget constraints being what they are for the OP, then some of us were trying to help him get the best value in a very good lathe and perhaps allow him to get a few necessities along with it as well.

[Clay Fails]

Clay, you are one of the rare and lucky ones........you got the Rolls Royce right out of the gate! :D I would gladly have said the Robust American Beauty for the best lathe out there if the OP's qualifications of budget were not included in his post.....I have turned on the AB, and a fine machine it is indeed! Budget constraints being what they are for the OP, then some of us were trying to help him get the best value in a very good lathe and perhaps allow him to get a few necessities along with it as well.

Understood and acknowledged Roger. I was simply offering my experience, with the understanding that everyone's situation is different. Consider the possibility of saving for a purchase as an alternative to immediate gratification.I have used this technique to advantage in my life in an attempt to avoid buyer's remorse. YMMV

[Bill Jobe]

Anyone willing to respond to my question about storing my wood outside, this winter anyway. Temps sometimes -20 or worse. Right now I have so much wood gathered not only can I not get my truck it, my wife has to park diagonally.
2 and a half car garage!! Who makes this stuff up?.

[John K Jordan]

Anyone willing to respond to my question about storing my wood outside, this winter anyway. Temps sometimes -20 or worse. Right now I have so much wood gathered not only can I not get my truck it, my wife has to park diagonally.
2 and a half car garage!! Who makes this stuff up?.

Green wood "survives" nicely frozen. In fact, one way to preserve that perfect chunk is to freeze it until you have time to turn it. Trees freeze solid every winter and it doesn't hurt them a bit.

I would be more concerned about the heat, since it can dry wood rapidly even with high humidity. An extra coat of sealer probably wouldn't hurt. Store well off the ground unless you want to experiment with spalting. Store in the shade if possible. I would consider laying down a vapor barrier on the ground, then some short pieces of 4x4 or larger with longer boards on top to hold the wood, then cover with tin or something to keep the rain and sun off. Don't wrap it with a tarp which would hold moisture. Expect some to fail, even if well sealed.

The general wisdom is to turn green wood chunks as soon as possible, within a few days or a week if possible. Rough turning then drying before finish turning is a good method. If you have way more than you can turn in a week or so you might consider giving some away, selling, or trading for some dry wood or some pizza. The sad thing is that chunks of wood stored either inside or outside in the weather will probably turn to firewood by the time you get to turning it, even with the end grain sealed.

Another problem with storing outside in warmer weather is it may be attacked by insects like power post beetles. I have personally seen them eat through a coat of Anchorseal and head into the end grain in maple. There are chemical treatments that will discourage them.

The other John Jordan (the famous one) said he prefers to get green wood in the log, stored off the ground in the shade. (he turns only green wood) When he is ready to turn some he cuts off about 6" from one end of the log and throws it away, then cuts a chunk for turning.

I turn mostly dry wood and I like turning small things. What I generally do with green wood to minimize loss: I process most green wood as soon as I can into turning blanks using my big bandsaw, from 1" square up to 3-4" or larger, some rectangular chunks, occasional round blanks. I write the date on each piece or at least prominently on a few of the larger pieces. I seal these well immediately after cutting and stack them with good ventilation indoors on wire shelves. I let them dry for 6 months or so then sometimes transfer to bins depending on the free shelf space. I let these dry for a long time before turning, the time depends on species and size. I check the dryness with a pinless moisture meter before use. It is a LOT quicker to process extra green wood into turning squares than it is to mount and rough turn them.

When well dried I stack them tightly on other shelves or toss the in bins. Before final stacking I usually skim them with the bandsaw to square them up, expose clean wood, and cut away any significant drying defects. I also make sure each piece has the species and date written with a sharpie. Much of the wood I'm turning now has been drying at least six years, 10 years for dogwood. I mounted a rough turned bowl last week that I put up to dry in 2003. You can't get in a big hurry when air drying turning wood!

I try to do a little processing throughout the year so I always have wood. In the last few weeks I've processed a bunch of holly, hard maple, and cedar. In the last few months I also made big stacks of dogwood, elm, black locust, persimmon, cherry, and others. This week I'm cutting green walnut and white oak in my spare time.

JKJ

[Roger Chandler]

Anyone willing to respond to my question about storing my wood outside, this winter anyway. Temps sometimes -20 or worse. Right now I have so much wood gathered not only can I not get my truck it, my wife has to park diagonally.
2 and a half car garage!! Who makes this stuff up?.

You can store wood in very cold temps. Some production turners keep wood in the freezer to avoid cracking. You seem to have temperature extremes, [reading from your other post] so you need to mitigate the things that hinder your success as much as you can. Keep it dry, and out of the sun if possible....a tarp certainly helps, as does shade [underneath trees] Keeping the wood off the ground to avoid soaking up moisture is a must as well, [think pallets, or blocks with pressure treated 4x4's or some such configuration. If you have lots of the wood, log form is a good way to go with the ends double sealed with Anchorseal, but work them up as you can, and then allow your roughouts to dry slowly in stable temps if possible [like a basement if you have one.]

Some turners keep their wood in water.... in barrels, or a pond, but not everyone has that kind of room.

I think you will get a lot more responses if you take the subject of wood drying/storage and make a separate thread out of it......might get a lot more/better input than on this thread about lathes.

[Bill Jobe]

Thank you, John, for all the much needed wisdom and knowledge. I have quite a pit of kiln dried cherry and walnut. It should be ok to cut to a certain length and stack on ahelves in the garage, wouldn't it?
And I am very excited about the peach and butternut I picked up a few days ago. The guy I got them from even cut the longer pieces ( some butternut about a foot across) into shorter lengths and sealed them emediately.
Beautiful stuff with bark curled under at one place. That's where he cut it and I cannot wait to make something special with it. I actually got it from a freind of a freind, and my freind wants me to turn an urn for him. I told him if he did not like it after moving in I plan to make a secret exit for him.

[Bill Jobe]

I try to do a little processing throughout the year so I always have wood. In the last few weeks I've processed a bunch of holly, hard maple, and cedar. In the last few months I also made big stacks of dogwood, elm, black locust, persimmon, cherry, and others. This week I'm cutting green walnut and white oak in my spare time.

JKJ

Since you mentioned black locust, I must not have gotten the office email
It technically isn't a tree, but instead it is a lagume. a relative to peas, beans and peanuts.

Also, I recently learned that there are no cedar trees in the US. what we refer to as various types of cedar are actually junipers.

[Bill Jobe]

But, the book I read was dated 1980, so your mileage may vary.

[Bill Jobe]

You're right, Roger. I should have started a new thread.

[John K Jordan]

Since you mentioned black locust, I must not have gotten the office email
It technically isn't a tree, but instead it is a lagume. a relative to peas, beans and peanuts.


You can call a locust a bean if you want to. You might want to call the US Dept of Agriculture and correct their misunderstanding. They can let the wood experts and scientists know they are all wrong.

Let us know how your black locust recipe book and line of snacks works out. Perhaps make sweet snacks from honey locust.


Dry wood is fine to stack and store inside indefinately. I have dry wood reportedly over 100 years old.

JKJ

[Roger Chandler]

John, it looks like we were replying to his wood drying/storage question at the same time last night. Had I known you were going to chime in with such advice, I would have not replied, as both of us gave similar advice. Such happens occasionally on the forums.

[John K Jordan]

John, it looks like we were replying to his wood drying/storage question at the same time last night. Had I known you were going to chime in with such advice, I would have not replied, as both of us gave similar advice. Such happens occasionally on the forums.

Ha! I think it is wonderful when two or more people reply, even with identical words! When I am asking for advice I love to see more than one person say the same thing - it adds an measure of assurance.

I also like to see that someone else is thinking the same way I do since if I'm way off base I want to know! I learn a lot from the forums.

I do agree this particular topic would be best addressed in a new thread.

JKJ

[Prashun Patel]

I agree with you John.

I think it's wonderful when two of more people reply, even with identical words.

[Roger Chandler]

I agree with you John.

I think it's wonderful when two of more people reply, even with identical words.


Not to mention identical times! :D We both posted at 9:53 pm! So we had to both be slaving away at the keyboard trying to help the OP with his question.

[Jeramie Johnson]

Great thread. I have a Grizzly G0766 and Griz 17" bandsaw. Love them both. If money was no object, I would be chasing a Robust or equivalent.

If you are jumping from a Harbor Freight 10", then Jet, Powermatic, Grizzly, anything will be a dream machine. Get the most swing you can, if you think you will have the itch.

To go to the Robust or equivalent, would be like jumping from a Pacer to a Bentley. If you can do it, don't hesitate.

[Leo Van Der Loo]

Since you mentioned black locust, I must not have gotten the office email
It technically isn't a tree, but instead it is a lagume. a relative to peas, beans and peanuts.

Also, I recently learned that there are no cedar trees in the US. what we refer to as various types of cedar are actually junipers.

I think you are right and didn’t get the whole office email message :eek:.

True there are no native Cedar trees in N.America, and one of those, the so called Eastern Red Cedar is a Juniper species, the other two also called Cedar, are the Eastern White Cedar and the Western Red Cedar, they are NOT Junipers, but Thuja, namely Thuja occidentalis for the Eastern White Cedar and Thuja plicate for the Western Red Cedar.

As for the Leguminocae trees like the Black Locust, Honey Locust, the Acasia and Mimosa and many more do belong to a very large flowering family that includes also shrubs vines and herbs, and for their seeds being in pods like the peas and beans, often called being in the bean family, here some more info for you to get up to speed on this :).

343634

[Brian Kent]

Hey, congratulations on a great purchase at a great price!

[Jerry Hankins]

Hi Group. First ... an apology, I've only made 2 posts over the years. Second ... I am jumping on an older Lathe post with hope of getting some feedback/suggestions. I own a cabinet shop. Sometime ago I bought a Lathe ... actually bought two. It's been a 'someday' desire to try, so I found a Jet (JWL-1442VS), then later found a Powermatic (Model 45). Both are 1-HP motors (中国人vs Baldor), with both accepting about 36" long stock. I am finally getting the time and space to put one into operation and sell the other. The big question, which stays ... which goes. The Jet is newer by decades, but the Powermatic still runs strong. My inclination is to keep the PM and sell the Jet. Advice... thoughts? Thanks!

[Alex Zeller]

I personally like the newer VFD variable speed lathes over the reeves drive ones. Are they both reeves drive? After the VFD question things I would value is speed, slower is better for turning bowls, more weight is also better, and swing, more is better. Of course there's looks too. My guess is the Powermatic looks more classical while the Jet is more of a generic looking lathe. Some of the parts for the older lathes aren't available so you might want to keep that in mind. That leaves option #3, sell them both and get a good mid sized lathe to learn with.

I started by playing on a co-worker's father's lathe that only went down to 600 rpm and it was intimidating getting the nerve up to stick a gouge into it on some of the larger hunks of wood. Until then I had thought about a lathe Grizzly sold that was reeves drive that wouldn't go slower than 600 rpm. SO I jumped up to the same model that had a vfd but was $500ish more. Before I took the plunge I found a discount code for their G0766 for only a couple hundred more. Having a simple knob to turn to adjust the speed and being able to go much slower made it so much easier to learn. Also when I sand on the lathe I like to go at very low speeds, like 100 rpm. My personal rule of thumb is for a 12" swing lathe I would like it to go about 300ish rpm for turning.

[David Walser]

Jerry -- It really depends on what you want to turn. For spindles and smaller things, the Powermatic 45 may be your better option. However, the Jet is more flexible. It has a sliding and pivoting headstock, which allows you to turn larger items. (However, the Powermatic allows you to turn items up to 16" in diameter over the 'gap' in the bed. So, you can turn a 16" platter or shallow bowl with the Powermatic.) However, the Jet's slowest speed is 450 rpm -- which is too high for large, out of balance, items. So, the flexibility offered by the Jet's sliding and pivoting headstock is more theoretical than real.

Either lathe will fill the bill for an occasional turner -- as long as he or she isn't to ambitious as to the size of the items being turned. Neither will serve you well if you develop a passion for turning. If it were me, I'd keep the Powermatic and sell the Jet. But, that has more to do with my feelings about 'old iron' rather than the relative merits of the two machines. Functionally, the two are very close in terms of what they can do well -- spindles and smaller items. So, feelings about such things as 'old iron' play more of role than they would if you were comparing a Powermatic 90 with a Jet JWL-1840EVS. No matter how you feel about old iron, the Jet 1840EVS, can simply do more and do it better than can the Powermatic 90. That's not the case with your two lathes.

[guy laizure]

$3000 would buy a used Vicmarc Vl300 lathe from a member of my turning club.

[Peter Blair]

If the US $$ is high a Oneway 1640 would be my choice.