Forrest Chopmaster 12 Inch on CMS

[Mark R Webster]

Hi guys, I recently bought a 12" Dewalt DW715 CMS and purchased a 12" 80T Chopmaster blade from Forrest. I have never used a Chopmaster blade I have a few WWII. Up until recently I used a 10" Dewalt CMS and a more generic 60 or 80 T blade. I am having trouble getting used to the Chopmaster. It seems to require a more downward pressure to cut than I am used to. The cut seem to be pretty smooth, but the action feels like using a dull blade. If that is how it is supposed to feel due to the negative face hook, how do you determine if the blade is getting dull... burning?
Thanks
Mark

[Mike Henderson]

The ChopMaster has a negative tooth rake, if I recall correctly. The standard blades you had been using would have had a positive rake unless they were specifically intended for a chop saw. A positive rake will be more aggressive.

If you bought the blade from Forrest I'm sure it's sharp.

Mike

[Randy Viellenave]

The 80T blade will cut slower, but better. Basically, the teeth are so close together that they can only take small bites. I wouldn't push down any harder, let the blade do its work and follow it through the material.

[Mark R Webster]

Thanks for the responses. So if it is less aggressive and slower to cut, what do "you" use to determine whether it needs sharpening?
Thanks

[Ben Rivel]

Love my ChopMaster on a 12" DeWalt SCMS. Definitely a slower cutter but nothing I have tried has ever left a cleaner cut! Havent used it enough to dull it though.

[Chris Padilla]

Assuming yours is brand new or freshly sharpened, feel it with your fingers. With hardwoods like maple and cherry that are both prone to burning while cutting, it is one way along with the finger feel to tell if your blade needs sharpened. However, one can burn those woods by going too slow through the wood, too.

[Mark R Webster]

Thanks guys for the posts and the tips. I wish there was a "sharp-o-meter" that would measure the blades. I know when a blade is really dull, it is that gray area where things aren't working well and it is difficult to determine the problem.
Thanks

[Chris Padilla]

There is a Sharp-o-metter, Mark! Your fingers!! Seriously, once you start doing this for all your blades, you'll notice it quickly. All you needs a freshly sharp blade for reference and you'll soon have the feel plus if you work certain woods a lot, you'll also start to notice when it isn't cutting quite as nicely.

[Mark R Webster]

Thanks Chris, I will work on the finger technique. :)

[Justin Ludwig]

With a SCMS and my 80T Chopmaster: I score across the top of the piece then come out in front and cut through the remaining. Provides a tear-out free cut even on plywood. You will get minor tear-out on the fence side of the piece if you don't use a sacrificial board or zero clearance fence. The tear-out is usually so minor that it can be taken off with a finger rub or 180+grit sand paper.

Enjoy the blade. Unless I'm cutting 2x material, it's the only blade I use on my SCMS.

[Mark R Webster]

Thanks for the tip Lud:)

[Ben Rivel]

With a SCMS and my 80T Chopmaster: I score across the top of the piece then come out in front and cut through the remaining. Provides a tear-out free cut even on plywood. You will get minor tear-out on the fence side of the piece if you don't use a sacrificial board or zero clearance fence. The tear-out is usually so minor that it can be taken off with a finger rub or 180+grit sand paper.

Enjoy the blade. Unless I'm cutting 2x material, it's the only blade I use on my SCMS.
Exactly what I do and the results are perfect.

[Mark R Webster]

Sounds like a great technique, my saw is not a slider though.:o

[Chris Padilla]

Mine as well, Mark. Just a good old DeWalt CMS but it does fine for me. Sometimes I need to put in a fence on the CMS fence to control tear-out back there but it usually isn't a problem.

[Mark R Webster]

Thanks Chris.