Powermatic PM 66 Question

[Walter Boyd]

While preparing my late model PM66 for a arbor and bearing change I noticed a small square 1 long piece of metal in the saw dust. :eek:
It looks like a square key such as used to secure a pulley to a shaft. With the cast iron top off I was able to get serious about cleanup so I set that aside and continued with the arbor replacement process.
That's when I noticed that the blade elevation mechanism seems to have a problem. The front handle that controls the up and down now has to spin 5 full revolutions before it starts lowering or raising the blade. The handle and shaft now back into and out of the saw when turned now instead of remaining stationary. There is approximately 3 inches of that shaft exposed.

I hope I've described this problem accurately. Another description would be the blade tilt handle, when it is used the handle remains stationary upon turning and the blade tilts to where ever you want it. Both locks on both handles work and both tilt and blade elevation operate very smoothly, no binding or grinding.
Any suggestion of help would be appreciated.

Walter

[Rich Riddle]

I have a Powermatic 66 manual. If you pm me with your e-mail address, I will send it to you. That will let you know what part you have and the problem.

[Rich Riddle]

Here is a picture of page 14 of the manual.

342731

[Matt Day]

Don't bother emailing the manual, just google "powermatic 66 manual" and you'll find it.

[Walter Boyd]

Page 14 of the manual.


Strange as it may sound I actually have the original manual. The saw was one of those 'garage finds'. It had been sitting in the back of the original ower's garage for at least 15 years, unused. The manual and paperwork was in a large zip lock bag inside the saw. The saw caddy had never been taken out of the box and was just leaning up against the saw. I've also downloaded ever manual I could find on the saw for reference.

The one question I have for another PM66 owner is does the elevation wheel on their saw travel back and forth or in and out when its turned?

Walter

[Matt Day]

The handle should stay in place in the horizontal plane, and not move in and out. Take it apart and see what you can see.

I don't have a 66 but restored a 65.

[Rich Riddle]

I cannot remember if mine is a 65 or 66, but no the wheel doesn't travel in and out. The reason I placed the page of the manual was because you should be able to look at that to determine what is making yours do that.

[Rich Riddle]

I will try to take photos of mine tomorrow for you, but my guess is that somehow the worm has set in the wrong location.

[Bill Orbine]

Check the locking collar on that elevation mechanism. Likely, it has slipped on shaft. Repeated power on-off of the saw over time tends dislocated the collar. Either that or previous owner didn't keep shaft and gear components lubricated making cranking stiff and jammed on collar too hard. Do not see square key on that elevation shaft. I see a woodruff key.

Edit:I had some additional thoughts to provide..... the hand wheel could also have slipped on shaft.

[Walter Boyd]

Thank you to all that have replied!
Bill, the locking collar and wheel were both tight. As for proper placement of that locking collar, how do I figure that out? Looks like I'm about to get real familiar with the inside of this saw.

[Rich Riddle]

Walter,

When you say the handle moves out, when the handle moves out does the handle move out on the shaft or does the entire shaft to which the handle is attached also move out? I was assuming you meant the entire handle and shaft moved out as one unit, but the handle could simply be moving out on the shaft. A simple marker line will let you know.

[Bill Orbine]

You could try peeking down throat with a good light. Crank the wheel and watch the movement of the shaft. There should be no lateral movement of the shaft.

[Walter Boyd]

Pertaining to the locking collar: I can't tell from that schemattic where exactly that locking collar is supposed to set? Did it set over that woodruff key?

[Walter Boyd]

The cast iron top is off the table so I can see the entire operation of these parts. The entire shaft with spinner handle moves on a lateral plane when used. Sawblade up causes that shaft with spinner handle to travel out, sawblade down makes the shaft spin back into the saw and then the sawblade moves down.

[Bill Orbine]

I believe the locking collar needs to set up against the tilt cam gear. That should prevent the shaft from walking into cabinet. You probably also note that the blade rises higher than before.

[Walter Boyd]

The cast iron top is off the table so I can see the entire operation of these parts. The entire shaft with spinner handle moves on a lateral plane when used. Sawblade up causes that shaft with spinner handle to travel out, sawblade down makes the shaft spin back into the saw and then the sawblade moves down.

Here some photos of what I'm trying to describe.342801342802

[Bill Orbine]

Here some photos of what I'm trying to describe.342801342802

With blade UP....loosen collar and slide forward. Tighten collar. See what happens. It should work properly, unless something else is wrong. Also, make sure hand crank is seated properly onto shaft after the collar adjustment.

[Walter Boyd]

I'll try this tomorrow. Thank you.

[Walter Boyd]

That was the solution. Thank you. There is a finger tight bolt on the arbor arm that limits how high the blade can extend up? Is there a given for where that should be set? Also, I've attached a photo of the piece of metal that was found laying on top of the saw dust in the cabinet.342863

[Matt Day]

If it was on top of your sawdust pile, I'd guess it's the key to one of your pulleys - motor or arbor.

Have you noticed a power loss?

[Rich Riddle]

Walter,

Congratulations on getting yours fixed.

Matt,

That pulley idea is good idea.

[Bill Orbine]

That was the solution. Thank you. There is a finger tight bolt on the arbor arm that limits how high the blade can extend up? Is there a given for where that should be set? Also, I've attached a photo of the piece of metal that was found laying on top of the saw dust in the cabinet.342863

Great! Two things to consider with height limit. Adjusted so that 1) none of arbor components (nuts, washers, pulley, etc....) hit the underside of table/throat plate and 2) the end of arbor shaft does not hit the underside of table when tilted 45 degrees.

Matt has the best answer for the key. Just wondering if you found this key after you popped off the table??? If someone had be working on the saw in the past and lost the key, got another one and didn't know the original was tucked/trapped between table and cabinet. Pretty thin, but maybe!

[joe maday]

from looking at the diagram you posted ..it would have to be the motor/pulley key...all the others are "woodruff" keys...half moon shaped. not a square bar stock key.

[Walter Boyd]

Thanks for the information! That's exactly the data I needed. The book is handy but does not replace the experience of someone that's lived it. The cast iron top goes to the machine shop tomorrow. A regrind and polish. Nothing extensive. It seemed worth the effort since I had the top off for arbor and bearing replacement.

To answer a few of the other questions:
1) the bottom cabinet has been cleaned multiple times since purchase. I'm confident that key is a new issue. I drove and the saw rode across the state of Florida to get back to Saint Augustine after purchase. 2) No loss of power that's I've noticed, only the wump, wump of the bad bearing as the blade slows down. l'll double check the pin on the motor pulley tonight .

I noticed a little burning on some oak I was cutting last week is the only reason I found the key before the shop vacation system emptied that cabinet. The burning made me think fire so I had shut that system down to look on the front access door just to be safe.

Both hand wheels move very smooth now. I don't see a need to tear it down any further?

[Walter Boyd]

No loss in power. All cuts everything I throw at it like it's cutting through butter.

[Walter Boyd]

I'd guess it's the key to one of your pulleys - motor or arbor.

Have you noticed a power loss?

Thanks Matt, one heck of a guess! The motor pulley had spun on the shaft, both set screws were less than tight. Real easy to set right, used locktite on the set screws. This saw did one cabinet job then spent the next 18 years in a air conditioned garage.