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Justin Stanley
08-21-2016, 5:56 PM
A little back story here:

My girlfriend and I are taking possession of a house out in the country in a few weeks. There is already an out building that the previous owner ran a few different small businesses out of. I plan on turning that outbuilding into my shop, eventually we'll build a new garage/shop for additional car and whatnot storage.

I went to highschool with a friend of mine, and he and his dad own a saw mill. They are the trustees for a pretty decent sized piece of timber and so they only take out dead trees and run them through the saw mill. Rare for this area, this timber they manage is old growth. While I don't have an eye for the quality of lumber, others have told me that the wood from there is pretty great; straight tight grain, etc. So for very little money, I can get wood from these guys, and its high quality and has sentimental value to me.

I've been looking on craigslist, ebay, and local classifieds for a decent beginner shop. I want a table saw, a surface planer, a router table/shaper, and a miter saw. While looking I came across a Moak Table saw about 200 miles from me for 350$. It requires 220/440 3 phase (shouldn't be an issue, I can get a phase converter or have an electrician come out) and has a 5 hp motor. It ran the last time the current owner had it set up, about 3 years ago. He's an older guy, so it is difficult getting him to take decent pictures as its in storage right now. He couldn't find a model number but found a serial number: 9605. He said he thinks it took a 16" blade (which would be awesome as I could just get in big beam sized pieces from my friend).

I am having a heck of a time finding any more information though. Seems Moak went out of business back in 1992 but made good industrial strength equipment. From the pictures i can see that the blade tilts and raises/lowers. I can't find out much past that. (Serial number for the saw is 9605, for the motor its 67235AWG1)

How do I find out what size arbor this saw has? Can i use a dato stack in it? If its made for a 16" blade, is there a danger in running a 10" blade? Is it possible to replace the arbor (if it is 1") with the standard 5/8ths ? What am I looking at for maintenance on this? If i need to replace bearings can i just have generic bearings pressed in? Is it possible to get a riving knife set up for this saw?

While I think it would be worth owning, even if I could only use it to break down big pieces of wood, though it would be awful nice if it had other uses. Can anyone help point me in the right direction on finding information on this saw? I pretty much just will be using it for breaking down large piece of wood, and making tables, chairs and things like that. Nothing fancy.

Mike Cutler
08-21-2016, 6:10 PM
Justin

First, welcome to Sawmill creek.
Second. Go get that saw! 350.00 for a running Moak is quite a good deal. If it takes a 16" blade it is possibly a Moak Monotrol, and they easily sell for multiples of the price you're being quoted.
Check in at Vintage Machinery and you cam learn more about the saw.
Once again, welcome to Sawmill Creek. Now go get that saw, or tell me where it is. ;)
PS
If you do go get it, it is one heavy piece of machinery. A trailer and an engine hoist are going to be needed.

Rich Riddle
08-21-2016, 6:11 PM
It's well worth what he wants...and more. Take five men and a mule to help you move it.

Justin Stanley
08-21-2016, 6:27 PM
Thanks for the welcome. You guys already helped me out a ton. Whether you realize it or not, the "No, for the love of god do not try and make your own flooring" threads have saved me a ton of time already.

Vince Shriver
08-21-2016, 6:29 PM
As the arbor goes, yes you can run a 10" blade on the saw. For arbor size - that would be easy enough to determine, either put a caliper on the arbor, or on the arbor nut. Arbors usually run 5/8, 3/4 (like the old Atlas Saws), or 1" for the larger saws. A saw company like Ridge Carbide, or Forrest can drill out a 5/8th hole to whatever size your arbor requires. You can also use 1" arbor blades with a 5/8th arbor by getting a bushing from the same people that drilled out the blade. Bushings aren't the ideal set up, but they can be safe and they work ok. Personally, I'd get a 16" blade if that's what the saw takes.

Andrew Hughes
08-21-2016, 7:58 PM
I don't see how you can go from a 16 inch baked to a 10 and be happy.Wont the rim speed on a 10 be very slow.My saw can spin a 12 and 10.
I can notice the difference.
Whats the kerf cut on a 16 inch 1/4 inch.

Aj

Rich Riddle
08-21-2016, 8:12 PM
AJ,

I believe it spins at the same rate no matter what size blade you have, the revolutions that is; however since a 16" blade is much larger in circumference, you spin a larger "section of circumference" than with a 10" blade. A 16" blade would have far more teeth than a 10" blade, so that would make more teeth go by in the same amount of time. I know what I mean to say, but am not sure it was well stated.

David Kumm
08-21-2016, 9:11 PM
I'm not a big Moak guy but the saw is likely direct drive with a depth of cut in the 3.5-4" range so 14-16" ( maybe 12" will work ) are the correct diameters to give the tip speed that works best. The arbor will be 1", 1 1/8" or 1 1/4" depending on what was ordered. The saw if running correctly with the flanges trued up will make you happy every time you run it and way better than anything new. Go to owwm.org and look up threads on Moak. They have some quirks when taking apart the arbor and motor rotor. The group can lead through what you need to look for when dealing with Moak. Dave

PS. Looks like Moak saws are rare. The 16a was an early design and the monotrol a much later 1960s or so vintage. Both could be had with belt drive. Take a look over at owwm.com ( vintagemachinery.org ) and look at pictures. Dave

Jim Becker
08-22-2016, 5:00 PM
AJ,

I believe it spins at the same rate no matter what size blade you have, the revolutions that is; however since a 16" blade is much larger in circumference, you spin a larger "section of circumference" than with a 10" blade. A 16" blade would have far more teeth than a 10" blade, so that would make more teeth go by in the same amount of time. I know what I mean to say, but am not sure it was well stated.

The arbor spins at the same speed, but the speed at the tip of the teeth on a larger diameter blade will be effectively faster than the tip of the teeth on a smaller blade to make a full revolution in the same time period. (The same thing applies to vehicles where folks "up size" their tires...suddenly their ODO and SPEEO are no longer accurate) The saw is probably optimized for the larger blade to spin at a safe speed, so using a much smaller blade "may" be less than ideal. I do use 10" blades on my 12" saw...because I can and I have them...but blade speed is best with the larger blade.

Jeff Duncan
08-22-2016, 8:58 PM
Some good advice here already. As Jim mentioned saws that run larger blades usually have lower blade rpm's. So while the 10" blade will run the same rpm's as the others have said, that rpm will likely be lower than a 10" saw, and hence not an optimal speed. Secondly, the arbor itself, as well as the whole assembly, is larger and so it won't raise as high as on a 10" saw. So your not going to get as much cutting height on the larger saw with a 10" blade as you would with a 10" saw. I think you'd be better off going with a larger blade, like a 16";) Though you could probably get by with a 14", just seems like going smaller is a waste of capacity.

One other thing to know....if your not used to a larger saw they're generally quite a bit deeper than your average 10" saw. Why this matters?....Well because it means you also usually have to reach significantly farther, (depending on the particular saw), back to get to the blade, and more importantly, to push stock past the blade. Not a problem for some, but I have heard people who don't get along with the extended depth.

good luck,
JeffD

Oh and by the way.....don't make your own flooring:D

Justin Stanley
11-06-2016, 9:17 PM
Hey guys,
I dunno if anyone is checking out this thread at all anymore but i finally went and picked up that Moak Table saw. Its much bigger than I anticipated. I made a video of it here
https://youtu.be/L6VceHdAlXA

I guess its a Moak Monotrol. Its got the same 5 hp motor by doerr that seem "common" on these saws. Right now its in the bed of my truck and thats where it sits until i have time to borrow a skid steer to get it out.

brian zawatsky
11-06-2016, 9:47 PM
Nice score! You stole that at 350 bucks. What a monster!!

Bruce Page
11-06-2016, 10:23 PM
Looking forward to you getting it up & running. How thick is your shop floor? :)

Justin Stanley
11-06-2016, 10:35 PM
Looking forward to you getting it up & running. How thick is your shop floor? :)

You joke, but thats sort of an issue right now. I'm currently renovating the house and haven't gotten to the shop yet and the middle 10' is hog slats. Its one thing to put down some plywood and roll a little contractors saw across it, but that Moak is really heavy and I'm not looking forward to getting a caster stuck between slats.

Peter Kelly
11-07-2016, 12:14 AM
Great saw. How did you get everything out of the truck?

Justin Stanley
11-07-2016, 8:44 AM
Great saw. How did you get everything out of the truck?


I haven't yet. My plan is to just build a little platform with castors on it. Then I just gotta borrow my buddy steve's forks and my neighbor's skid steer. Set the saw on the platform, and i can roll it to where i want it.

Darcy Warner
11-07-2016, 8:44 PM
I have owned 3 Moak Monotrol's. The current one I have was built in 1992.

Very nice, well built saws, very underrated (not popular).

Mike Cutler
11-07-2016, 9:09 PM
Justin.
Nice saw!!! It appears to be a Monotrol, and if you got it for the $350.00 you originally referred too, it was a steal.

Eric Commarato
11-08-2016, 1:12 PM
pictures???