Jointer choices

[Patrick Whitehorn]

All,
I currently have a choice of four interesting jointers here and thought that you might have some suggestions on which might be a better choice. First, a 6" JET JJ-6CSX that is effectively brand-new ("used once") with a mobile base for $785. Second, a 6" Delta 37-190 which looks like it is in great condition with an extra set of knives for $300. Third an Inca 510 jointer/planer with an extra set of knives (not the Tersa head model) for $500. Finally a quite old 8" Delta 37-315 that needs new knives and lots of cleanup for $400 (OBO).

The Jet looks great but one can buy a brand new JJ-6CSDX (with quick-replace knives and 6000 RPM cutterhead) for only another $150.

The 37-190 Delta would definitely be a stop-gap solution, but an attractive one for only $300 - especially if I can talk them down a bit. I am not a big fan of the open stand, but I could deal.

I love the idea of having the jointer and planer in one (Inca), until I hit the lottery and can larger separates, but the fact that Inca is out of business is worrying. The extra set of knives helps - but eventually I would need those, too. The fact that the tables are so short is bothersome, but that fact that they are ten inches wide is awesome for face jointing.

Finally, I am really attracted to the big 8" Delta - it must be nearly seven feet long and is "old arn". I suspect that I could replace the knives fairly easily and cheaply, but it definitely would have to be done soon. And it is missing the original serial number/name plate - this bothers me as I cannot know when it was made. Finally, it needs lots of love and a new porkchop guard - the current owner replaced it with a shaped piece of wood.

Thoughts?

[Dan Friedrichs]

8" Delta. A set of HSS knives for it can be had for <$20 - don't worry about that at all.

You should check the tables and fence for flatness with a good-quality straightedge, though.

[Rich Riddle]

Another vote for the 8" Delta. The Jet is highly overpriced. The Inca is great but parts prove difficult to find. The small Delta doesn't fill a stop-gap. Ask any of us who went through the perpetual progression of larger and larger tools.

[Kevin Womer]

I have the jet, but that is twice as much as I bought mine new several years ago. Great machine and I have no complaints, but if I could get my hands on an 8" jointer at that price I would jump on it. I haven't had any problems with the jet it always does the job, took the knives out once and sharpened then with the Duelen jig, well worth the investment.

[Joe Jensen]

8" delta for sure.

[Bill Adamsen]

Another vote for the 8" Delta

[Doug Ladendorf]

Go for the 8" Delta. You will appreciate the quality of OWWM.

Doug

[Matt Day]

Didn't this almost exact same thread come up last week? Get the 8".

[John TenEyck]

If you don't have a planer, or you are cramped for space, the Inca is a great choice. I had one just like that for 25 years. With it's separate motor there is little to go wrong with that machine. I had two sets of knives and never wore them out and I jointed and planed many, many thousands of BF with it. In all those years, I had one planetary gear belt break. They are still available through Eagle America, I believe. The beds are short, but I regularly jointed 6 ft and longer boards with it w/o problems. Having that 10" jointer bed is a huge advantage, IMO. I finally sold the Inca - and bought a 14" wide machine J/P.

Only you know your needs, but don't decide against the Inca because you are worried about something breaking or wearing it out. As long as the planetary gears are in good shape it will be a faithful servant.


John

[Patrick Whitehorn]

Wow - a unanimous response! I appreciate everyone's help - thanks! Take a look at these other pictures and see if you are all still agreed. Also, does anyone know what the pairs of holes on the outfeed table are for? I have never seen those on a jointer before.

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[Dan Friedrichs]

You need to make sure the tables and fence are flat. That would be a deal-killer.

It's a dovetail-way bed, which is trickier to adjust than a parallelogram bed (if needed). It looks like there is some rust up inside the castings. It kinda looks like the top and base don't go together?

It's the best deal of the ones you posted, but I don't think I'd pay $400 for it. Maybe $300 if you're looking for a project and cleaning up old tools.

[Kevin Womer]

Needs some TLC, but that could be expected with an older machine. Someone already stated those are dovetail ways on the outfeed. I still think it's the best choice, maybe you could get the price down a little bit it still looks in decent shape. Can't go wrong with an 8" and you won't be sorry with that size of jointer.

[Jim Becker]

No question...the 8" Delta and some knives. A 6" jointer is pretty much limited to just doing edges and one of the most important functions of a jointer is flattening lumber before planing to thickness. Even an 8" is marginal for that for many of us, but it's certainly better than 6"!! Oh, and it will have longer tables and a heftier build, too. That's a good thing ;)

[Patrick Whitehorn]

Everyone - thanks for your input! I picked it up this afternoon for a nice price: $275. Now - where do you suggest I get some new knives? Also, HSS or Carbide?

[Dan Friedrichs]

Nice work! That's a very good deal. Put a little work into cleaning it up, and you'll quickly have tripled your money.

Many people recommend http://www.globaltooling.net/ for jointer knives. Go with HSS, for now, until you've gotten the feel for sharpness/dullness and alignment.

Be VERY careful when cleaning the bed and fence. This is not a job for a power sander. You do NOT want to get it out of flat. Green scotch-brite, WD-40, and lots of patience....

[Jim Becker]

Further to what Dan said, you don't need to care about "discolored"...just get any rust cleaned off and forget about it being overly shiny. Once it's clean, a little wax will help keep it that way.

[Rich Riddle]

Congratulations on your purchase. Enjoy the restoration process.

[Bill Adamsen]

+1 on what Dan and Jim said regarding cleaning ... be cautious cleaning or polishing and wax to protect (also makes wood slide easier). Functionality is paramount.

With a search, you will find lots of posts on this forum regarding pros and cons for various jointer knife material. Generally for native North American woods, sharp HSS will do a fine (if not better) job and set you back less in initial investment.

[Dick Mahany]

I used HSS knives exclusively on a Jet 6" jointer and also a Jet JJP 12 combo jointer / planer because they could take a such a sharp keen edge. I like carbide for longevity, but prefer the finish from HSS over carbide for my jointer. I got my knives from American National Knife online and had excellent experiences with that supplier. I have no affiliation with them, but was happy with their product and delivery. I also like HSS because I have a Tormek with planer blade sharpening attachment so a quick refining of the cutting edge is convenient for me when needed.

[Mike Kees]

Congrats Patrick, wise choice. I have owned the 6 delta you had in your original post and the 37-315 you just bought. No comparison its way better. I buy HSS knives from my sharpening service. They are not all created equal , the ones I buy are 14 percent (chromium or tungsten) I think. Maybe someone who knows what I am trying to remember here can chime in. Anyways HSS comes in at least several quality levels. They have it in long bars and simply cut to the length you need. Hope you enjoy that new to you jointer.

[Patrick Whitehorn]

All,
I am excited to get to work on it a bit today - time for some mineral spirits, WD-40, and a green scrubby! I have a quarter-sheet sander, do you think that plus the green scrubby and super-light pressure would be safe enough or is this a "hand" tool only job? (I have seen videos suggesting a ROS, but I don't have one.)

Does anyone know what these two pairs of holes on the outfeed table might be for?
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And is this a "gib"?
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[Matt Day]

Scotch brite and a sander is a great way to clean it up and you don't have to go too light on it. Just don't bear down on the same spot for like 5 minutes.

My favorite method is scotch brite and an angle grinder, with a cup wire wheel to attach the SB.

[Mike Cutler]

Patrick

Nice machine!
Yes, those are the Gib screws. Do not take then apart to clean them, until you know that they need to do it. Your tables will need adjusting is how you'll know. They're a pain in the behind to get re-adjusted. If you do take them apart, be sure to match mark them in their as found position/ location. (I haven't seen one sticking out like that though.)

It's mostly a lot elbow grease and maybe some chemicals to get the tables cleaned up. Don't use a green unless you have some really thick stuff to remove. They're effectively about 100 grit, there are white and grey one at the big box store, in the paint aisle, that are much better suited. Don't use them dry, always use a lubricant with them.
Yes a 1/4" sheet sander will work, but not dry. Spray the tables down with some type of lubricant and use no greater than 320 grit paper, those tables are in actually really good condition. A hard wooden, or rubber block, will work too.
There is a device inside the table raise lower mechanism called the "ball crank". It is very easy to break if you run up against the mechanical stop pin which is usually set for an 1/8", if it is installed. ( Mine no longer is!:mad:)

I don't know what the two holes are for, but I have seen them on other jointers. Maybe a power feeder?

[Matt Day]

You don't need a lubricant, and i start with green on a surface in rough condition.
I got the idea from this post:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?224326-keeping-cast-iron-Machine-tops-clean-the-easy-way