Best wood for getting my feet wet?

[Nick Boehm]

Hey everyone,

I'm new to woodworking and have selected a few projects that should help develop my skills. Most of the projects use specific woods based on their grain appearance and the finished product and not necessarily the other properties of the wood but for me I have chosen the projects based on the skills involved to create the finished project. What do you guys think would be the most budget friendly wood to start with would be? I'd like something that has similar properties to the higher end hardwoods but maybe a reduced "exotic" appearance or rarity to help save cash on these skill developing projects?

[Mike Nolan]

I would suggest poplar if you were in Southern California. It is cheap, available and well behaved. It turns a nice brown after being exposed to even some sunlight. Check your local hardwood sources. Hardware stores are not usually a good place.

[Nick Boehm]

I'm in VA. I guess that piece of info may help. Hopefully going out this weekend to take a look at a few local hardwood dealers.

[Paul Girouard]

Pine will teach you a lot , it's inexpensive , smells nice ,IMO. Being a native New Englander Pine has been used since the pilgrims landed , for all sorts of things. From flooring to framing stock , to furniture.

If you where in Washington state I'd suggest Alder , which is also a fine wood , it's nicknamed "Poor mans Cherry" as with some stain and finish on it , it can be made to look like Cherry.

Cherry would be the next wood of choice, back where you are it may not be quite as expensive as it is here in Washington state , I moved here with the USN back in 1978 , so I've been here longer than I was in R.I. , but those would be three woods and the order I'd suggest you'd start your quest with , if they are available.

Oh, and on the Pine we get Idaho White out here , look at stair treads for 5/4" thick stock , getting it in 8/4 (1 1/2" ) thick can be a bit tricky out here, not sure what hoop jumps you'd have in Virgina finding 8/4 stock in Pine.

Good luck.

[Bruce Page]

Pine is a good choice although it can be sappy. Popular is also a good choice and more stable. Spoil yourself and pick up a stick of cherry for something small. You'll love it.

[Andrew Hughes]

I think Alder is a good choice too.If you pay a little bit more you can sometimes find it clear.
The cut off pieces are good for smoking and barbecuing win win.

[Doug Hepler]

Nick,

There are many aspects to workability, for example:
1. Ease of cutting and shaping with hand tools (planes, scrapers, chisels, etc.) and machine tools (jointers, planers,
routers, etc.).
2. Propensity of a species to tear instead of cut, leaving rough divots or fuzzy grain. Tearout is also caused by irregular grain patterns in a particular piece of wood.
3. Accommodation of fasteners. Some species and grain patterns tend to split more easily than others and require pre-drilling for screws and nails.
4. Ease of gluing is important, but not usually a problem with most woods and modern adhesives. (Some dense tropical species like rosewood can present problems in gluing).
5. Ability (and need) to evenly stain or dye will matter a lot at finishing time. (I prefer not to stain or dye wood, but some need a little pizzazz. Some woods, like cherry and maple, tend to blotch because of irregular grain.)
6. Ease of finishing.. Some wood has open grain, meaning pores will show in the final finish unless you fill them. Other woods finish hard and smooth with almost any coating. Some oily exotic woods are reputed to interfere with the curing process of some oil-based finishes.

Finally, the effect of the wood on your tools is also important. Some woods tend to blunt cutters more than others, often because of mineral deposits in the wood.

The following very short list of woods would score well on the dimensions of workability: Clear pine (Eastern White, Southern, or Radiata) is easy to work if you get clear wood or cut around knots. Cypress works very well. It has a tendency to split, so drill all screw holes. Among hardwoods,
poplar is easy to work. My favorite is black walnut. It is expensive but it is strong, easy to work, and can be finished beautifully. Mahogany is also easy to work and finishes beautifully. Also consider Soft Maple or Cherry. Oak is much harder to work.

I invite you to read more at this link:http://plaza.ufl.edu/chepler/Notes/Chapter%204%20Lumber.pdf

IMO you can get what you need at a big box home store, at least for now.

Doug

[Paul Girouard]

I won't buy wood at a "big box " store unless it was Sunday and there was no other choice!

[John Lankers]

I won't buy wood at a "big box " store unless it was Sunday and there was no other choice!

Well, I'm not so sure. At least here big orange stores SPF lumber indoors and it generally tests between 9.5% and 10.5%, 2" x 12" x 16' is usually pretty decent if you can transport it - just picked up 20 boards yesterday.
But I would never buy S4S hardwood lumber there due to their prices.

[Paul Girouard]

Well, I'm not so sure. At least here big orange stores SPF lumber indoors and it generally tests between 9.5% and 10.5%, 2" x 12" x 16' is usually pretty decent if you can transport it - just picked up 20 boards yesterday.
But I would never buy S4S hardwood lumber there due to their prices.



The stock I see in my local H/D is fire wood grade , and like you said the S4S stuff they are very proud of! Don't get me wrong I shop my H/D for a LOT of stuff, unfinished wood just isn't one of them. I did get some pre-finished R. Oak floor there , price was good , flooring was good.
Maybe living in the PNW and have a old fashion , family run local lumber yard (Frontier Industries), and access to cabinet shops who buy from suppliers like Edensaw woods , Architectural Woods, and the like , I'm spoiled:-))

[John Lankers]

Here it's the smaller home centers selling the worst quality, even though HD is 1:30 hour away it is worth making the trip. For hardwood lumber we have to go to Calgary which is 3 hrs. away way but with excellent selection and good pricing when buying 300 bf or more.

[Rick Potter]

Another vote for poplar. It is cheaper than clear pine, and is very stable, and it is a hardwood. Another choice is soft maple. I sometimes find it at pretty reasonable prices, and it is used a lot as a secondary wood, like for frames of furniture. Call hardwood dealers, and ask if they have any short pieces. These are 4 or 5 feet long, and usually discounted. I just bought some poplar shorts yesterday.

Plus one on not buying finish type wood at big box stores or places like Rockler. They are very expensive there.

Keep your eye out for people discarding solid wood headboards or tables. Free is always hard to beat.

Hope this helps.

[Paul Girouard]

Here it's the smaller home centers selling the worst quality, even though HD is 1:30 hour away it is worth making the trip. For hardwood lumber we have to go to Calgary which is 3 hrs. away way but with excellent selection and good pricing when buying 300 bf or more.

You're out in the sticks!!!

[Mike Cutler]

Nick

Seeing as that you live in Va., my advice would be oak. A lot of oak is milled in Va, and there are many small mills that specialize in it. Look for some small mill operations. It's not uncommon that oak, maple, walnut ,and cherry ,can be found for less $$$$/bd.ft than quality pine. Pine can be expensive also, depending on the grade.
I have to agree about not buying it a Big Box store. When you convert the price to board feet, the big box stores are pretty expensive.

[Earl McLain]

I'd agree with poplar in general--and for some reason I really like the occasional streaks of green & purple I see in my stash. But, cherry and soft maple have taught me how to set up my machines. Both will burn pretty easily if the table saw fence isn't parallel to the blade, or if the feed rate is too slow.

earl

[Curt Harms]

I think Alder is a good choice too.If you pay a little bit more you can sometimes find it clear.
The cut off pieces are good for smoking and barbecuing win win.

SWMBO has some alder cabinets and I went in search of alder to add on a door. Alder in S.E. PA. costs about the same as cherry and it doesn't seem that easy to find locally. It depends in large part about where you are. A hardwood which may be available in Richmond for a nice price is Ash. A local sawmill near me had ash for $1.25/bd/ft in 6"-9"+ widths mostly clear. For prototyping or cheap experimenting wood 2X framing lumber isn't half bad. If you haven't done so, look around for small sawmills. The downside to small sawmills is that you'll most likely be buying rough stock. Buying nice hardwood for $1 - $2 /bd. ft. helps to pay for a jointer & planer (which you may want anyway).

[Scott Cenicola]

I started with pine due to cost. It really hurts when you cut a $20 piece of Cherry incorrectly, lol. The problem with pine is if you go really cheap, the wood will move literally overnight, and you will wonder what you did wrong. The other issue is it really gums up and dulls your blades, so frequent cleaning is required. Either way, enjoy the journey. You have no idea how much there is to learn.

[lowell holmes]

I favor soft maple when I'm making a prototype. It is inexpensive and easy to work. It planes well.
It can be stained if need be.

[Robert Engel]

I would recommend Paul Sellers to you. He has lots of good instructional videos on the basics. I have learned a lot from him about layout and marking as well as basic use of hand tools.

He uses pine quite often, but keep in mind with soft woods, sharpening skills come to the forefront very quickly. :)

I think poplar is a good, economical choice for practice, as well as eastern white pine.

[John Blazy]

Nick - what kind of woodworking do you plan to do? If tabletops, then cherry followed with danish oil finish - super easy. If cutting dovetails, then stay away from pine, unless you know how to sharpen chisels well. When it comes to handplaning, use clear pine or poplar. Stay away from southern yellow pine - too hard.

I would definitely stick with softwoods. If you have the money, walnut is a joy to work with hand tools. Carves like butter, planes awesome, finishes like an exotic, and smells heavenly.

[John K Jordan]

Nick,

When I started playing with wood I used pine shelving boards from the Home Depot, mostly 1x12. I made a LOT of things from pine, here's one that has gotten regular use for over 40 years now. (The leather bridle is broken and it needs new ears!)

342517 342518 342519 342520

(I drew some plans in case anyone wants to make one!)

Hey, when I was in northern Italy recently I visited a woodworker who for many decades has been making a good living making almost everything from pine - kitchens, bedroom furniture, business offices, etc. Ain't nuttin wrong with pine!

Yellow poplar is also a good choice - strong, clear. Machines, stains and finishes well.

You might visit some sawmills in your area. One small sawmill near here in TN had a huge stock of air dried and drying local hardwoods at just a few dollars a board foot. Some stacks had been drying for over 5 years. I bought cherry, walnut, maple, cedar, buckeye, and oak. This is all rough sawn, of course, so a planer is needed. (I've since put a sawmill of my own behind the barn and now wood is free after the work and the wait.)

I also bought red oak at a big local commercial sawmill at 30 cents a board foot, random widths. The 30 cent price is what they call pallet grade with knots and other defects. However, there was always a lot of clear wood between the defects for someone willing to work around them. All this is 4/4 and green, cut that day, so would require air drying for a year or two for woodworking. I bought hundreds of boards and used most of them green for farm building siding but I did dry some. Red oak is a beautiful wood.

JKJ

[Andrew Gibson]

The 3 species I like in order of cost...
1. Poplar. Wont win a beauty contest but paints beautifully. Can be a bit fuzzy but will teach you to have sharp tools for joinery. A little soft and will dent if not careful. wonderful as secondary wood.
2. Soft Maple. Stains well. Marginally more expensive than poplar and not quite as stable. A little more forgiving than poplar when it comes to tool sharpness. Not a s nice for secondary wood because of movement.
3 Oak or Ash. Stains well and has strong grain pattern. Hard and requires sharp tools but will take detail very nicely. Can be heavy.

Always check the price list at your Lumber supplier, they may have something that is cheap that you would not expect.

[Greg Parrish]

Depending on the look you want and the tools you have everyone has mentioned great ideas.

I recently used about 12 or 13 pine framing grade 2x4 that were 8' long to glue up a desk top. I ran them through the planner and jointer a million times getting them surfaced and they turned out pretty nice. The end results when stained with vinegar/steel wool and black tea has an old barn wood look which was the desired outcome. That said, as everyone mentioned I found a ton of tar pockets in the wood while trying to straighten and true it. On the other hand, at only $2.25 each it was cheap wood if you don't count the wear and tear on the machines.

Another place I found some affordable wood was the local saw mill guy. I drove about 40 miles to get to him and found him via craigslist. He was selling rough cut cypress, a local to me wood, for a good price. I managed to pick up 6 normal cypress boards that were 1"x12"x12' as well as 4 pecky cypress boards at 1"x12"x14' for around $200 cash. I did a good bit of planing to bring them down to a nice surface but for $200 it was a heck of a lot of board feet to work with. Granted you need a way to joint or square the edges but still a local mill can be a good source for wood cheaper than the box store.

Just finishing up a table with poplar base frame and cypress top. I used just over 2 pieces of that cypress to get my top put together but probably spent $200 just on the poplar alone at the local box store to make the frame.

I need to find a better source for wood myself. :)

[Robert Parent]

White Ash is my go-to wood for most projects. Inexpensive, machines nice, easy to finish, strong, looks great.

In my area its the same price as poplar, cheaper and no fuzz of soft maple. The local farm supply store actually has the best prices (even cheaper than the local sawmill) and nicest selection.

Robert

[Al Launier]

Poplar initially, then Walnut & Hard Maple as your talents improve.

[Erik Loza]

Poplar was what I kept in the show crate back in the trade show days. For some reason, I never liked pine. Maybe the knottiness or inconsistency. Also, I was always scrounging around for scraps of other species. One guy gave me a buch of flooring cutoffs of African Mohagany once. More challenging to machine but fun to play with. I dont' know that there's a wrong answer, though. Isn't that how you learn?

Erik

[Jim Becker]

The best wood to get started is whatever wood you have available to you. ;)

That said, I'm a fan of Poplar (Tulip Poplar) myself and use a lot of it. (primarily because I have a lot right off my property) It's reasonably priced, works well, and can easily mimic more expensive species with careful finishing. Some folks say it's only good for painted projects, but I respectfully disagree after building many projects with it. I only really use pine for beekeeping woodenware and trim in the house where it needs to match other pine. It's not that I don't like pine...it's just not what works for my projects.

[lowell holmes]

Go try one board of soft maple and see how you like it. It takes stain well and is easy to work. It is not expensive either.

Don't confuse it with hard maple, bowling alley maple, birds eye, or curly. I've made a book case and also a bed using it.

[John Sincerbeaux]

For "getting your feet wet".....
Swamp wood? Drift wood?😂
Sorry, my daughter is a pun fanatic and has rubbed off on me.

Id run to HD and make things out of Red Oak. There are softer and more stable woods but I love how it looks with any finish.
Also, I would approach EVERY piece as an heirloom piece. You may surprise yourself how well you do knowing the wood is really nice. Have some cheap wood around for set ups or practice cuts.

[John K Jordan]

...I only really use pine for beekeeping woodenware and ...

I had a lot of yellow poplar and decided to make some deep hive bodies. I made just one. It was too heavy! I thought y.poplar was lighter weight but this wasn't. Maybe I used all hardwood (it was from a huge tree). It's hard enough to lift a deep full of honey with a light-weight box.

I did make some super boxes from eastern red cedar. Several people told me it wouldn't work since the smell of the cedar would drive away the bees. Not so, the bees filled them with honey right away just like the pine boxes.

JKJ

[Jared Sankovich]

Poplar. It's cheap (it is the cheapest wood locally), plentiful and easy to work. It should be around $2 bd ft or less rough, just a bit more for s4s. Find a local hardwood yard and stay away from the box stores, they are 2x the price.

[Stew Hagerty]

Here are three: Alder, Ash, & Poplar.

Alder is relatively soft and straight grained which means it is easy to work. You can get it in clear or knotty, either makes for attractive projects but the knotty gives an especially nice rustic look.

Ash is the hardest of the three, but it is still straight grained. It is very similar in appearance an working properties to Red Oak. It take a really nice finish too.

Poplar is the softest of the three (although not by much), has a really fine texture, and is super easy to work. Paint is Poplar's friend, and it takes it wonderfully. You can stain poplar as well, but you need to take steps to avoid blotching, but when you do, it is a real chameleon and can mimic cherry or other woods very closely. Poplar is without a doubt the most popular secondary wood when it comes to furniture making.

All three of these woods are quite inexpensive, and yet you can make so many beautiful things with them.

[Jim Becker]

I had a lot of yellow poplar and decided to make some deep hive bodies. I made just one. It was too heavy! I thought y.poplar was lighter weight but this wasn't. Maybe I used all hardwood (it was from a huge tree). It's hard enough to lift a deep full of honey with a light-weight box.

I did make some super boxes from eastern red cedar. Several people told me it wouldn't work since the smell of the cedar would drive away the bees. Not so, the bees filled them with honey right away just like the pine boxes.

JKJ

Yes, I wouldn't make hive boxes from poplar due to the weight increase over pine, but I do use scraps of it for a variety of things for The Professor's beekeeping needs. I have some partially dry pine in my racks for winter box building and if we need something sooner, a local family owned home center has the 12" white pine available that I've used for wide pine flooring for $1.32 a foot in pretty much "select" rating. It's 7/8" and rough on one side...one pass through my planer and it's bee-box heaven. I used some scrap of this wood for one box and really like it...less pitch than yellow pine.

[Paul Girouard]

Yes, I wouldn't make hive boxes from poplar due to the weight increase over pine, but I do use scraps of it for a variety of things for The Professor's beekeeping needs. I have some partially dry pine in my racks for winter box building and if we need something sooner, a local family owned home center has the 12" white pine available that I've used for wide pine flooring for $1.32 a foot in pretty much "select" rating. It's 7/8" and rough on one side...one pass through my planer and it's bee-box heaven. I used some scrap of this wood for one box and really like it...less pitch than yellow pine.

That would be nice to have a source to a 7/8" thick Pine board. Out here we get the common Pine , or utility Pine at net 3/4" maybe a but + but NOT 13/16" , or the Pine stair treads that are net 1" / 5/4.

I look for Pine with "flecks" , sort of like Birdseye's in it , makes interesting furniture.

[Scott DelPorte]

I think the best budget friendly materials will vary based on your location. My suggestion would be to use google to find local lumber yards and pay them a visit. On my first furniture projects, I started with s4s clear pine boards from the big orange box store because it was super convenient for me, and I figured pine would be cheap. Later I found I could get rough sawn cherry at a much lower cost per board foot at a local lumber yard. The cherry required dimensioning, and had more waste, but was about half the cost of box store pine. Here is a picture of two tables. One made with box store pine, and the other with cherry. I used the same clear pine on both for drawer bottoms to save weight, but ironically would have saved some money by using cherry.
342564

[John Lankers]

IMHO regardless of wood species when buying lumber especially from a Sawmill it is important to know the moisture content of the lumber and the equilibrium moisture content of furniture in the environment where the finished project is going to live. Stuck drawers or loose joints are no fun.

[Joe A Faulkner]

You might consider going to Craig's List for the Richmond area. Visit the "Materials" section and search for Lumber. In my local market, many of the mills list their prices on their web sites. It looks like in your market most ask that you "call for prices". I saw some red oak at $2.15 a bf. I would expect poplar to be cheaper. If you can get cherry in the $2-$3 BF range then I'd encourage you to go that route. It is beautiful wood and works very nicely and isn't as heavy as red oak; also not as hard.

[Steve Schoene]

Well, I'm not so sure. At least here big orange stores SPF lumber indoors and it generally tests between 9.5% and 10.5%, 2" x 12" x 16' is usually pretty decent if you can transport it - just picked up 20 boards yesterday.
But I would never buy S4S hardwood lumber there due to their prices.

Must be fortunate up in Alberta cause I've measured SPF in several states that always showed moisture content closer to 19% than 10.5%. The other important thing about big box construction lumber is that a very large percent contains the pith (the center of the tree). Boards with the pith are much more prone to warping, and are weaker than boards that don't include the center. The problem with big box S4S is not just the price. i've found drying defects such as case hardening more times that I would like.

[Brian Tymchak]

Here are three: Alder, Ash, & Poplar.

.

+1 to everything Stew said. With some stains, Alder can look like Cherry, Ash can look like Chestnut and Oak, and Poplar can look like Walnut. Ash and Poplar are very inexpensive here in OH-IO. I built my workbench out of Ash.

[Steve Schoene]

I think the best budget friendly materials will vary based on your location. My suggestion would be to use google to find local lumber yards and pay them a visit.

Let me add another source to find good sources of wood. Go to Woodfinder.com. It allows you to search around your zip, and includes many outlets that don't have web pages or yellow page ads, but which are good providers.

[John Lankers]

Must be fortunate up in Alberta cause I've measured SPF in several states that always showed moisture content closer to 19% than 10.5%. The other important thing about big box construction lumber is that a very large percent contains the pith (the center of the tree). Boards with the pith are much more prone to warping, and are weaker than boards that don't include the center. The problem with big box S4S is not just the price. i've found drying defects such as case hardening more times that I would like.



Unfortunately I don't feel fortunate at all these days to live in AB but that's a different story :(.
This is the reading I took this morning on lumber that's been in the shed since Tuesday, it may have dropped a point or two on the outside since I put it in, the pins only penetrate about 3/8".
You do pay a good premium for 2 x 12 x 16 but 2 x 12 x 12 aren't even worth looking at even though they cost half as much.
Regarding the pith, I don't mind it at all. When you cut it out it leaves you with beautiful vertical grain lumber that is very stable.
We do have a couple home centers not to far away but their lumber is exactly as you describe it, I try to shop locally but it doesn't work for lumber - softwood or hardwood.

[Roger Feeley]

+1 on poplar. It works easy and doesn't burn.

I will go a step further and recommend Polywhey varnish from Vermont Natural Coatings. This stuff brushes on with cheap foam brushes, cleans up in water, doesn't stink and dries hard. For finishing, all you need is the varnish and some 600 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper. Let your first coat dry and go over it very lightly with the sandpaper soaked in water to lubricate it. Then put on your second coat and you should be good to go.

[John K Jordan]

IMHO regardless of wood species when buying lumber especially from a Sawmill it is important to know the moisture content of the lumber and the equilibrium moisture content of furniture in the environment where the finished project is going to live. Stuck drawers or loose joints are no fun.

This is so true. I meant to mention concerning buying from sawmills that I take a moisture meter with me. Since I dry my own wood a good moisture meter is well worth the cost.

JKJ

[Nick Boehm]

Thanks for the advice everyone! I took the advice of finding local wood suppliers and found one that purchases fallen trees in the are and found some incredible prices. The project I want to attempt first calls for walnut and the supplier has it for 2.25 a bf at 8/4 x 10 with one square side so I may just go ahead an try it out with the walnut since that seems to be a great price and I only need 12 or so bf. I appreciate the input from everyone and will keep that in mind when trying more difficult projects.

[John Lankers]

Thanks for the advice everyone! I took the advice of finding local wood suppliers and found one that purchases fallen trees in the are and found some incredible prices. The project I want to attempt first calls for walnut and the supplier has it for 2.25 a bf at 8/4 x 10 with one square side so I may just go ahead an try it out with the walnut since that seems to be a great price and I only need 12 or so bf. I appreciate the input from everyone and will keep that in mind when trying more difficult projects.

That's an incredible price, you may want to buy just a wee bit more than you actually need - like twice as much :)

[Curt Harms]

At that price it may have quite a bit of sapwood but it's sure worth looking at. It's good to see that people are starting to view 'urban' logs as a lumber source. I've seen some large (30"+) sound trees cut up for firewood around here.

[Jim Dwight]

I started with shelving boards and framing lumber from big box stores. I picked the clearest boards - or the ones with more interesting markings - and made a bedroom set we used until a few years ago. My joints were consistent with the quality of the wood - not great. But it worked and I learned. Softwood cuts easier but dealing with the knots is an additional thing to learn. It is also not heavy for it's size and totally capabile of being furniture wood.

If you really want to start with hardwood, you can use poplar but I don't much care for it's appearance. I prefer softwood if you're going to look at it. Poplar is great for drawer sides and back and other things you don't look at much but it can be anything from cream colored to green to black, it's surface can be kind of fuzzy and I just don't love it. While it is technically a hardwood, it's softness is like softwood. I like pine better. For an inexpensive hardwood you can look at, I would get ash. It looks a lot like oak and works about the same. I've used more oak than anything and it can be inexpensive. Maple is nicer to work but not necessaryily in appearance. My favorites are cherry and walnut but they don't come cheap.

[M Toupin]

Nick, lots of good advice but you're in VA and close to the Shenandoahs to boot. Oak (white & red), ash, popular and maples are readely available and the cheapest. Walnut & cherry are available but at a bit more of a premium. Not as bad as some areas but then again not as cheap as say the rural areas of PA & NY.

Northland Forest Products in Troy is great for domestic solid stock and they let you hand pick. If I need quantity it's worth it for me to drive out there. Check out the shorts while you're there, great prices on shorts (4-5 footers). For sheet goods I use Worth Woodgroup in Norfolk, but they have a location in Richmond too. They also carry blum & KV hardware and other supplies at reasonable prices. Just keep in mind they're geared towards pro shops who buy full bunks at a crack. They sell single sheets, but I try and go on of hours so I'm not holding up the pro guys who are trying to make a living.

Mike

[Paul Girouard]

I found the photo's of the Pine I like to find at the lumber yard:


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/tvcab.jpg (http://s21.photobucket.com/user/PEG688/media/tvcab.jpg.html)





http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/tvstand.jpg (http://s21.photobucket.com/user/PEG688/media/tvstand.jpg.html)



Makes for interesting furinture I think.

[Paul Girouard]

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/feb53.jpg (http://s21.photobucket.com/user/PEG688/media/feb53.jpg.html)

[John Lankers]

Those are beautiful pieces.

[Paul Girouard]

Those are beautiful pieces.



Thank you.