Unisaw Platinum Edition, Did 36" Exist? Seller Asking $750

[Patrick Irish]

I'm looking at a used Delta Unisaw Platinum Edition with an Excalibur guard/dust collection for $750. Seller gonna get my pics later. Did say it's a 36" rail version. I googled that and couldnt find a 36" rail 3hp platinum edition.

If it is a 3hp unisaw with excalibur system and 36" rail, is $750 decent? I was going to offer $550 as a starting point and see what happens.

I was holding out for a Sawstop, passed up one for $2200 and figure I can sell my jobsite bosch 4100 for $400, use the Unisaw until I move into a bigger place and buy a new under warrant sawstop.

[Bruce Page]

That's a decent price, IMO. These came in a verity of configurations and I'm sure 36" was one of them. FWIW, I have a 17 year old "Grand Edition" 3hp Uni that has been bullet proof.

[mark kosse]

A uni platinum wouldn't have come with an excaliber fence so if excaliber shows a 36" fence it probably was bought that way.

the bigger question would be will 36" work for you. It wouldn't for me.

[Patrick Irish]

Excalibur blade guard and dust collection like the pic below. It has a biesemeyer fence. For my 2 car garage, the 36" would work for me. Don't really have room for much more. I've been using a folding bosch 4100 for a couple years so really anything will be an upgrade, especially something that's 3hp. I'll have to add a mobile base though so I can move it around.

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[Jim Becker]

Excalibur blade guard and dust collection like the pic below. It has a biesemeyer fence. For my 2 car garage, the 36" would work for me. Don't really have room for much more. I've been using a folding bosch 4100 for a couple years so really anything will be an upgrade, especially something that's 3hp. I'll have to add a mobile base though so I can move it around.

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LOL...that's my photo from very long ago...before I expanded the shop, even. The Excalibur was an excellent overarm guard/collector, too. (That saw was great, too...hope the gal that bought it is still working it hard!)

[Patrick Irish]

Well the owner has 220 for their dryer BUT the plug is different on the saw so no way of turning it in. That's the 1st issue. The 2nd is that from the photo it looks like it's missing the wood extension to make it the full 36" right side of the blade. They (wife and husband) don't think they have the extension piece.

I cannot find model #'s for a 36" 3hp platinum edition. I'm gonna call Delta tomorrow.

[Patrick Irish]

Pics from the seller. Looks like the rail is not attached on the front. From what I see, the wing extension on the right side of the blade is missing since there is a gap from the end of the rounded corner table and the end of the rear rail. I could be wrong. If that is everything then it looks more like a 30" than a 36" saw.

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[Jamie Buxton]

...no way of turning it on....

Showstopper.

[Rich Riddle]

Well it's easy enough to make an electrical adapter to test the saw. Simply get a dryer plug/cord (sold as one piece) and attach it to a proper 220 receptacle. I have a 220V "adapter" in the shop in case I get a tool with the "wrong" plug.

Now onto the saw itself. I suggest an out-feed table. In photo 1, which is the back side of the saw, you can see the right hand extension. The table without the extension would have a square edge, not the rounded one you see. Also, without the extension, the table would end a few inches after the miter slot. The extension is there. I owned that saw prior to giving it to a friend and upgrading to a European Slider. It's a great saw and Phil says the best he's ever owned. I couldn't get it away from him for any price. You'll like the saw.

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[Charles Lent]

The right side tables are just a piece of particle board with high pressure laminate on the top and painted bottom. You can make one yourself. As far as the saw, if you want a Unisaw, this one is about the best you will find for anywhere near that price. It has the motor cover and the Excalibur guard, which together are worth hundreds if you needed to buy them separate. The saw itself looks to be in almost new condition. You can try to talk him down, but in my opinion, it's worth every bit of what he's asking, if it runs. Make an adapter and test it. This is the only sure way to know, but don't wait too long or this saw will belong to someone else.

Charley

[Davis Young]

I have the Platinum Edition with 52" Unifence. In that time period the shorter rails were offered as a 30" Biesmeyer Commercial Fence System. So you might have more luck searching for 30", not 36". Also, there would have been a short table board and a pair of support legs for the 30" Biesmeyer version. The left side extension wing should be rounded and the right side extension wing should be square to transition to the table board. As I recall, the longer rails were marketed with the Unisaws (52" Unifence or 50" Biesmeyer) and the shorter rails (30" Unifence or Biesmeyer) went with the contractor saws. Both saws with either fence were badged as Platinum Edition. Even if the Unisaw was not marketed with the shorter rails, I'm sure a customer could have configure it that way since the fence and rails came in separate boxes.

[Matt Day]

Looks like a nice saw. I'd use the facts that it's in pieces and needs some work as bargaining chips to get the price down a bit. I'd offer $650 and see what happens.

[Michael Stockdale]

Sold my Unisaw for $1000... Easily. I'd say $750 is more than fair...

[Patrick Irish]

Had to take the girlfriend her work computer and drove another 20min to look at the saw. Glad I did.


The excalibur guard/dust collector does is not for this saw. Sure it can work for it BUT this Unisaw had the Delta/Besseimeyer overarm guard already on it.


No splitter/riving knife. It has the quick release pull knob for one but didnt see it in the garage.


No Front rail or front rail guide so the fence is just laying on top of the saw.


Raising and lower the blade made some noise. Sure some oil would help.


Not sure I want to source an extension cord adapter so I can test it. Adding a front rail/guide and mobile base is gonna be $300 + likely

[Charles Lent]

Well that's all good reasons to talk him down some, but you are going to need to look a long time to find another Unisaw in that condition for less than $1,000. Will probably kick yourself next month if you don't get it. Just use the missing items as a way to get the price lower. A 3 horse single phase Unisaw with a Biesmeyer or Unifence will sell quick at $1000. Talk him down some, but don't let go of that saw, if you really think you want a Unisaw. Then watch craigslist for a fence, splitter, and base for it. All come up on Ebay and graigslist much more often for $1-200 than a Unisaw in this condition for less than $1,000.

Charley

[Matt Day]

The fence itself is the expensive part. You can buy the front rail (2x3x1/4 I think) at a metal supplier which will be MUCH cheaper than from Bies. - like $30.
You can make a shop made mobile base or buy a used one. I think you should budget more like $100 for that stuff.

As I said above, use it all as bargaining power. Tell the seller how much you're going to have to do to it to get it functional, and then make a lower offer.

Assuming you've got some basic Mechanical skills and don't mind a bit of a project, it should be pretty easy.

[Cary Falk]

With everything you described the saw is priced way too high. Parts add up quick and there is nothing magical about a Uni. When major parts go missing(front rail) I ask myself who looses these kind of things and what else is wrong with it(no way to power it on). I bought a 1970 UNI a long time ago as a restore project. I paid $400 and think that I overpaid. I ended up selling it. I think I got $900 for it but it was plug n play and in pristine condition with a 72" fence and mobile base. I think a Uni is worth less than that now if it were plug and play which this one is far from it. Since there is no fence on it you might as well pop the hood and make sure the trunnions are not cracked where they connect to the cabinet. This is a week spot.

[Matt Day]

Cary, there's a fence in the pictures, just not the front rail.

[Patrick Irish]

He has the fence and front and rear angle iron supports, just missing the front guide rail and the splitter.

Delta used a 2x3" 14 gauge steel tube for their front guide rails. I can't find 14ga locally, only 1/8 (11ga) or 16ga. I don't think the thickness would matter as 2"x3" is all that matters. Nice thing is since he has the angle support piece, the holes will be there to line up to attach the guide rails. Just a few holes drilled and tapping them.

I need to get an extension cord adapter thing so I can plug this ...... 342478

intol this somehow....

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[Cary Falk]

Cary, there's a fence in the pictures, just not the front rail.

I understand that Matt. Who looses the front rail to a table saw????? Either somebody that doesn't take care of things or somebody that has no clue about the saw and is flipping it. I get tired of people on CL that want top dollar for incomplete tools and then look at you like you are crazy when you tell them what it takes to get it functioning.

[Bruce Page]

Or some one who has moved a few times. Stuff happens.
I lost a coffee table between California & New Mexico.. (Actually North American Van Lines lost it but I watched them load it in CA.) :confused::rolleyes:

[Patrick Irish]

Couldn't pass it up. My dad and I made a plug for it so I can test it today. The seller got this saw, a 2hp unisaw that said 'arbor saw' and other tools couple years ago from a friend cabinet maker. The seller never powered them on. The saw I bought had a keyed switch on the front, the seller thought it was a 110v outlet. The cabinet maker had this setup with a 50" front guide rail but that somehow got tossed or left behind. It's a model 36-944.

We go to start it and nothing. Seller didnt have the key for the switch. Only option was to cut the wires and twist lock them together. It worked and saw fired right up. Smooth too. He wanted $750, I offered $650 and we settled on $700. That does include the Excalibur nearly new over arm guard dust collector. Seller had no clue it opened up for a 52" setup. Also has that Beisemeyer over arm T-guide guard system. The clear guard is cracked.

No splitter but it does have the white I think Bessy quick release bracket. Not sure what I'll use. Love a riving knife but know those are hard to get for these.

I'm hoping to get to the steel yard and get my tubing tomorrow. Gotta decide on the length I want. I'll probably go with the length that a 36" saw had. Maybe go 40" right of blade. I don't have a lot of room in my garage, certainly not for a 52" setup.

Heading to woodcraft in the morning to get a mobile base kit too.

Was thinking about selling the Excalibur, good idea or not? New it's like $400.

Oh and this splitter I left there, didnt think it bolted on but after looking in the manual it does with another bracket and that rod thing....both pieces I don't have. Wonder if I should drive out there and get it just in case or just put $$ toward some other kind.

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[Cary Falk]

Love a riving knife but know those are hard to get for these.
A riving knife does not exist for this saw.

I'm hoping to get to the steel yard and get my tubing tomorrow. Gotta decide on the length I want. I'll probably go with the length that a 36" saw had. Maybe go 40" right of blade. I don't have a lot of room in my garage, certainly not for a 52" setup.
40" was perfect for me but 36 is close enough if space is a concern.


Was thinking about selling the Excalibur, good idea or not? New it's like $400.
I would keep the Excalibur and sell the Beiesemeyer if it were me. The Excalibur probably has better resale value though. I paid $175 for a new one on CL about 5 years ago.

Oh and this splitter I left there, didnt think it bolted on but after looking in the manual it does with another bracket and that rod thing....both pieces I don't have. Wonder if I should drive out there and get it just in case or just put $$ toward some other kind.
Since you already have the mount for the Beisemeyer I would just get a set of splitters from Sharkguard. You don't need the OEM because you have 2 overarm guards. If you think you will sell the saw in the future, go get the guard and then you can sell the saw with the OEM and then sell the overarm one separately.

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See above in red

[Bill Adamsen]

It is a fundamentally very good saw and you got it for a good price. I have one I bought new about thirty five years ago and it works just fine, always has.

I have the Unifence and I cut the end off (even shorter than your) since I only use the saw for rabbets, dadoes, finger joints, and the rare rip. But I wish I had the Beisemeyer (more useful even for the limited fence work I do) so I would not get rid of that. So as someone else mentioned ... it all depends on your expected usage. The key from my perspective is having a stable saw with good mobility and the best dust collection you can get. If I had your package I would dump the Excalibur overarm thingy because for how I use that tool, it would just get in my way. Congratulations!

[Ray Newman]

The Saw Center in MA also has parts and will rebuild Unisaw arbors: www.sawcenter.com (http://www.sawcenter.com)