finish for cherry

[Mike Steinhilper]

Ok, i am trying to decide what, of the thousands, of finishes to use on cherry. I am leaning toward Watco now, but would welcome suggestions. I've read some previous posts on BLO, pretty much eliminated that. What is the difference b/w Watco and your basic Minwax natural stain?

[Donnie Raines]

Mike,

You may want to give more details as to the intended purpose for said project. That would really assist in any advice on will supply.

[Mike Steinhilper]

It's a small (4 drawers) apothecary cabinet.

[Byron Trantham]

I'm curious, why ignor BLO? :confused:

[Mike Steinhilper]

From what I've read, you either love it or hate it. Sounds like the people who don't use it, don't because of the curing time and the fact that it needs a coat of varnish after it cures. that may not be accurate.

[Jim Becker]

My first step with Cherry is ALWAYS a liberal application of BLO. After it soaks in for a half hour or a little more, I wipe of the excess and let it cure a bit for a day or three. They I do a seal coat of dewaxed shellac...usually garnet, but that's personal preference. The shellac can go on before the BLO is "fully cured" and is essential for any interior spaces that you got oil on. The shellac also brings wonderful clarity to the finish. From there, it's whatever top coat is appropriate for the piece...sometimes I stay with the shellac; sometimes I spray on water bourne acrylic, such as Target Coatings USL; sometimes a oil-based wipe on varnish of one flavor or another gets used. Final step is a coat of paste wax.

That all said, for many decorative items...it's just BLO followed by wax once it's fully cured (smell goes away) or Tried and True with the bees' wax already in it. It's a silky finish that is wonderful and very traditional. Not appropriate for your kitchen table, however!
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I've read some previous posts on BLO, pretty much eliminated that. What is the difference b/w Watco and your basic Minwax natural stain?

Watco is a varnish oil combination. Minwax "natural" stain is...golly, I have no idea since it makes no sense whatsoever unless you are selling finishes.... ;) Seriously, it's probably just the oil-base that they use for their pigment stains with little or no pigment in it.

[Donnie Raines]

Any oil base finish will have a longer cure time....and the odor will linger as well. My first choice for cherry is a very liberal coat of BLO sealed with shellac. You can either leave that as your finish or you could apply a varnish or lacquer over top.

[Mike Steinhilper]

Ok, so what would be the difference b/w BLO and Watco - not chemically, but visually? And if I go the BLO route, when you say liberal, I guess you mean dunk the thing? :)

[Steve Schoene]

I'll second shellac as a top coat for cherry.

[Jim Becker]

Ok, so what would be the difference b/w BLO and Watco - not chemically, but visually? And if I go the BLO route, when you say liberal, I guess you mean dunk the thing? :)

BLO is just oil. Watco is an oil/varnish mixture. Liberal means wipe on a nice, wet coat and let it soak in for a bit. Then wipe off the excess. While the "dunk" work is kinda joke in one context, it's actually a technique used with turnings made from Norfolk Island Pine and Ponderosa Pine...soaking repeatedly in an oil bath (could be BLO, Tung or even Watco oil/varnish), the pieces become very translucent and rich looking...check out some of Sascha's recent NIP pieces in the Turning Forum.

[Donnie Raines]

What they said, plus:

BLO will have a more yellowish hue to it. Watco, in a natural state, will also have a yellowish color...simply becuase they are both oil base. As you no, Watco can come in a varity of tinted blends....and of coarse that will offset the color.

[Mike Steinhilper]

Thanks for the info! Think I'll try both on some scrap and see.