Sprayer Recommendations?

[Keith Winter]

Hi Guys,

I know this has been asked in various way before, but I'm hoping you can provide a recommendation. I really could use some help beyond what I was able to find via search. I work with a lot of wood, but I'm a complete amateur when it comes to spraying stains and varnishes. I'm hoping you can help so I don't buy the wrong thing.

I'm planning on adding a sprayer to my shop. I already have a spray booth, but we are hand staining and clear coating right now with polyurethane. We like the end product but it just takes too long. I will be spraying stains and then a clear coat onto flat wood. Probably will clear coat with a varnish.

- We have a 80 gallon compressor already
- Key will be easy clean-up, and ease of use (dummy proof), as I will have to train helpers to do this.
- Long lasting for consistent shop use (or cheap and easily replaceable)

What would you recommend? I'd like to stay $500 or less if possible.

[John TenEyck]

I think you should look at the 3M Accuspray guns with their PPS cup system. You can buy some of their guns for less than $200. They have interchangeable and replaceable nozzles that allows you to spray everything from low to high viscosity products. The PPS cup system is amazing in it's own right. Together, cleanup is minimal, fast, and doesn't waste much finish or use much solvent. Here's a link to get you started: http://3mspraysolutions.com/products/accuspray-system

John

[Wayne Lomman]

Keith, as John says, the 3M system is pretty simple and user friendly. If that doesn't work out, look at DeVilbiss guns. They are robust and parts are readily available. I personally use Iwata guns. In the end, skill is more important than brand. Cheers

[Johnnyy Johnson]

I am also doing small projects and want a airless sprayer. I am looking at a couple at Lowes. I think the one I like is a Wagner. I only want to spray poly on drawer boxes and drawer bottoms. I bought a sheet of 4 X 8 pre finished 1/4" for drawer bottoms. I would like to spray the boxes (1/2" Maple I milled down). I dont think I need a hi dollar out fit. The two I am looking at are $100 to $130. Is it better to do the drawer boxes with Lacquer or Poly. Satin or Gloss. I want it to match the 4 x 8 I bought and in the future buy 4 x 4 unfinished and do it myself. It's hard for me to handle a 4 x 8 !/4 or 3/4 in my small shop. I could hand rub on poly but I like the look of the pre finished and I know I can not get that look without spraying. Also, I dont care much for buying the poly spray cans.
Thanks
Johnny

[Jim Becker]

Johnnyy, you might want to carefully consider what product you're going to spray. Oil based "poly" isn't the best thing to apply that way because it drys so slowly and the overspray can be a real mess. Further, you don't want oil based products on things like drawers and other things internal to a cabinet or furniture project...they will off-gas "forever" and the smell will get into anything you store. Water borne finishes, shellac and (if you have the right environment to safely spray it) solvent-based lacquers are better choices for things like drawer boxes.

Airless sprayers are also not the best choice for thinner coatings like lacquer, shellac and many water borne finishes. They excel for thick coatings like paint, however.

[Keith Winter]

Thank you John and Wayne! I'm going to order one of the 3m kits tonight! Much appreciated!

[John TenEyck]

Glad you found the info. helpful. I'll add a word of caution that Jim touched on. You mentioned you use varnish finishes. I would not spray any oil based varnish in my shop. Besides the volatile solvent issue, the over spray will stick to anything it lands on and make a sticky mess. That is one reason I only spray shellac and water borne finishes in my basement shop.

John

[Mason Truelove]

try to check out Graco Magnum 262800 X5 Stand Airless Paint Sprayer .