Buying a new miter saw: Should I opt for a slider?

[Chris Lukowski]

Hi Everybody,

I've been a homeowner for about two years now and I'm expanding my tool collection to get started into amateur woodworking and DIY household projects. I want to start with making workbenches and basic storage cabinets for the basement and eventually get into building vanities, bookshelves, dressers, etc for the rest of the house. Here are the woodworking tools I have so far:



Cordless drill & impact driver
Cordless 6.5" circular saw w/ Diablo 40T Fine Finish blade & Kreg Rip Cut guide
Two sawhorses
Reciprocating saw
Kreg K5 Pocket Hole Jig


I have enough budget for the moment to get what seems like the next logical tool: a miter saw to get precise cuts on 2x and 4x lumber as well as the ability to do baseboard and crown molding in the future. I've been going back and forth for months on whether or not I should go all-out and get a 12" sliding compound miter saw or if I should opt for a 12" non-slider. I've looked at the 10" sliders but I think I want to have the vertical capacity that a 12" blade provides for versatility. So far I'm partial to DeWalt tools so I'm basically comparing the DW716XPS vs the DWS780. The two questions I keep circling around are 1) would I be sacrificing accuracy by getting a slider, even when it's in a locked non-sliding mode, and 2) am I ever going to need the added horizontal crosscut capacity when I get a table saw down the line? Note that I'm not a contractor and will never be cutting roof rafters or new construction apart from framing up a finished basement. I've heard plenty of people say "Get all the saw you can afford now so you won't regret it later", but if I will likely never need a slider's capacity for home DIY / woodworking project work then I could use the $200 upgrade price elsewhere (such as a jig-saw, table saw, or a router). Let me know what you think!

[Randy Viellenave]

I too am a home/DIY user, and after using a non-slider for years and "always" being 1 inch short I finally got the Hitachi 12" slider. I had been plunging the saw, then lifting the board and saw at the same time to finish the cut. While I can't speak to the accuracy of the Dewalt, my Hitachi is just as accurate at full extension. I would vote for slider.

[Jim Dwight]

Sliders need a very deep workbench if you want to use it in the shop. It may be more practical to put it on a rolling bench and pull it out to use it. A 12 inch non-slider will crosscut about 8 inches. When that is not enough, I use a RAS. You could also use a jig for your circular saw or, later, a track saw or tale saw. 8 inches is plenty for any molding work you are likely to do. A 10 inch non-slider will probably do your molding. With good technique, I think you can get accurate cuts with a slider but you can verify in a store that they deflect if you push on the motor sideways with the arm extended. So will my RAS. But you can't similar push a non-slider. But I can also crosscut accurately with my RAS and I'm sure you can with most sliders.

DeWalts may be good, I've never looked. Hitachi's are usually a very good buy and they are good saws. The Bosch glide is most people's second to the Kapek. I've also seen a good review of the Rigid 12 inch. It is supposed to have pretty good dust collection (the Bosch gets poor scores for dust control, the Kapek is by reputation the best for this). I would read some reviews before buying a DeWalt. You may still buy it but there may be a different brand that will better suit you or cost less and do an equivalent job. I tend to go with what I think it the best buy for each tool. I have a DeWalt track saw but I have a Hitachi double bevel 12 inch non-slider. I have two PC 690 routers but also have a Bosch Colt. If I bought a small router today it would probably be the DeWalt, however. My good jigsaw is a Bosch. There are several good brands but there isn't one that is best at everything.

[Von Bickley]

Chris..... Welcome to the Creek.

I would like to have a slider, but I have a Hitachi 10" compound miter saw that does everything I need.

The tools that I used the most in my shop are:
Delta contractor table saw
Hitachi 10" miter saw (no slider)
Makita 3 HP router in a make-do simple table
Some hand held routers

I have other tools, but these are my primary tools. A slider would be nice but I can get by without one. I picked up my Hitachi from Lowes when they had it on sale for $100.00

[Adam Petersen]

I had a 10" non-sliding Hitachi for many years and was also always short. I recently was able to buy the 12" Hitachi slider and can't believe how much more convenient it is. I also have found it to be very accurate. Menards often has it for $399.99 and then there's the 11% rebate. Lowes recently had it for $399 with a free stand. If you can swing it, I'd go for the slider now instead of the eventual later. This one also takes up less room because of it's unique sliding system.

[Pete Janke]

I'm a very happy Hitachi C12RSH owner. I use mine the same way you intend to use yours. For all the reasons stated above, I bought this saw years ago and sold my Ridgid 12" non slider. Mine is mounted on a Ridgid MSUV. The slider system will allow you to mount it on a work bench without the need for the great space behind it. You can find it for $399. You can also buy a reconditioned one from several sites including Big Sky Tool and Amazon. I have purchased reconditioned tools from both sites that continue to work great.

[Scott Cenicola]

Welcome to the creek Chris! Lots of great information here. I think if you are planning to get a table saw anytime soon, I would pass in the slider. Making a cross cut sled for your table saw is a simple and accurate way to achieve many of the cuts you will need to make. I have two, one for 2 foot wide panels, and one for smaller work. I really only use my miter saw for rough dimension cuts, or in your case for moulding, etc.

Either way, best of luck!

[Ed Edwards]

Chris,
Before you commit to a DeWalt slider take a look at the Amazon review " another DeWalt terd"

I gave a 12" DeWalt slider to my Son as a birthday present, because that's what he wanted, he cussed me trying to cut crown mldg with it.

Why don't you take a look at Craig's list in your area and see what's available in just a chop saw for starters ?
Ed

Ed

[Robert Parent]

I bought a Bosch Glide Arm and have been very happy with it. It does not require the depth of most sliders. However, it is a bit on the heavy side if you need to move it often.

Robert

[Jerry Thompson]

I have a DW 12'' SCMS. I keep it adjusted and it cuts on the money unless I do wider boards. I knew about sliders from the get go and use the DW to get close and then go to my shooting board to get it on the money. For larger compound tapers I use my table saw with a taping jig.
I bought the saw the first year they came out and got a real deal as it was sold as a reconditioned tool. How a tool would have had to be reconditioned in such a short time does not pass the smell test. It was obviously a floor model.
I have had no problems with it what so ever. I know its limitations as to spot on accuracy but it speeds up my break down of lumber to manageable size.
I imagine of one wanted a slider that would cut on the money each time the price would be ^$1000. I like shooting boards for what I do.

[Jim Becker]

If I were buying a miter saw today, I'd likely opt for a slider...wider capacities and sometimes more compactness at the same time.

[Alan Lightstone]

I imagine of one wanted a slider that would cut on the money each time the price would be ^$1000. I like shooting boards for what I do.

I went with the Kapex, and it usually cuts bang on. That being said, getting good with a shooting board will always get you to superb accuracy. I always have that trick in my back pocket if I need that.

[Phillip Mitchell]

Lots of good points made already, but I'll add my piece...having used plenty of both variety. For carpentry on the rougher side, a slider can't be beat and is really useful to have around. It can be used for finer work as well, though I would go to the table saw/miter gauge/sled for fine woodworking miters and crosscut I have a Dewalt DWS780 and once set up properly, it is accurate enough for me for a miter saw. It has some good features, and I happened to get a brand new one for 60% off retail so I'm happy with that. I also have an old Hitachi 8 1/2" slider that was given to me, which is a nice saw for smaller stock and is lighter to move around. One downside not mentioned too much is that a slider spews dust everywhere....and is harder to capture than a non slider. A saw with a permanent location could be outfitted with a custom build dust "hood" built around it with a dust port near the bottom/back of the saw, but even with all that, the dust collection of a slider can be challenging. Just something to consider.

You can be quite accurate with a 12" slider if you take your time, set it up right and make some nice extensions on either side that support your stock properly, but for nit-picky trim and even more accuracy, I really like a non slider as long as the stock I'm working with isn't more than say 6" wide. But you don't get anywhere near the crosscut capacity and versatility as the slider.

SO...the obvious answer is...BUY BOTH! :D

You can thank me later. ;)

[Tom Ewell]

Don't know if these are available in North America yet but there seems to be some interest in this Metabo rig.
https://www.metabo.com/com/en/tools/sawing/mitre-saws/kgsv-72-xact-sym-612216000-mitre-saw.html

[Mike Henderson]

I had a 12" non-slider and always had a problem with crosscut width. Now I have a 10" slider and I miss the depth ability of the 12". So if I had to do it over again, I'd get a 12" slider. But get a good quality slider. You won't regret it.

Mike

[Davis Young]

Besides capacity, I find sliders a lot more convenient, especially if there are no lasers. I could make a tick mark anywhere along the width of my board, then slide and drop the blade to line up my cut. With a non-slider, I'd have to make my mark exactly where the blade would make contact (and not usually where I make my mark, which is along the edge), or use a square to run a line off my mark, a real slow-downer for me.

[Jack Lemley]

No question. If you can afford it and have the space a slider is a must! I used a Ryobi 10" chop saw for years and then bought a Makita 10" slider that I really liked and I used it for probably 12 or 15 years. A couple of years ago I snagged a really good deal on a Bosch 10" Glider that is the bomb!! Uses much less space in the back than the slider, dead on accurate, controls are convenient and easy.

Jack

[Eric Schmid]

I certainly understand the appeal of sliders as I have two, but given your situation I might get the fixed head and focus on getting a table saw as soon as possible. A table saw is going to add a lot more to your set up than a slider. The fixed head will handle 95+% of the cuts you are likely to make. For the other 5% there are other ways to get the job done.

FWIW, a fixed head saw is bolted to the bench at my shop. I prefer it to a slider for shop work most days. Better dust collection, smaller footprint and more accurate/consistent.

[Rich Riddle]

I would not purchase one that wasn't a slider.

[Ken Grant]

Lots of good answers here, and it really depends on how you will use it. I have been doing cabinets/trim work full time for a while now, and in my experience the non-slider will give you a cleaner miter if you are doing much trim work. This really shows up on taller pre-finished base, wider casing, crown, etc. You can get good results out of a slider (good blades are important) but the fixed head saw is just tighter. Also, if you are setting up and tearing down every day, the sliders are heavier to move.

[Charles Wiggins]

I bought a Bosch Glide Arm and have been very happy with it. It does not require the depth of most sliders. However, it is a bit on the heavy side if you need to move it often.

Robert

I went this route as well. If you can afford it I highly recommend it. I also have a 10" Delta CMS, and as others said, it always came up short.

I have seen where some pan the accuracy of the Bosch axial glide, but that has not been my experience. It would be very easy to push or pull the arm into deflection, but if you have a sharp blade and just "let the tool do the work" there is very little deflection. Also, the Bosch has a lock-down for the arm, which makes it, in effect, a simple CMS.

As Robert said, the Bosch is also designed to set back close to a wall, so you don't need a lot of clearance behind it.

When I bought mine it it came with the T4B Gravity-Rise Miter Saw Stand (https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-T4B-Gravity-Rise-Miter-Stand/dp/B000VZNEM0) thrown in at no extra charge. This makes it easy to move the saw around if you are not setting up as a stationary tool.

[Tom Ewell]

I often see comments about miter vs slider and the variance and quality of cut being better on the miter saw because of the fixed position and fewer moving parts.

Since every slider I've used has a lockdown on the slider function, have any tests been done using a locked down slider (in the home position) vs a miter saw and compared the quality of cut?

I suppose these test saws would have to have the same basic stuff, bevel functions, blade type and size, power rating, drive method (belt/direct) and the like and of course the same manufacturer.

[Chris Lukowski]

Thanks for the replies everybody! What I eventually came to the realization to (now that I had the funds to seriously consider it) was that if my goal was to get into basic household woodworking (cabinets, shelves, basement storage, etc) then I am better off using that $600 on a table saw. With just a miter I'd be limited to what that and my 6.5" cordless circular saw could do, and even with the Diablo 40T I don't think I'd be getting the kind of precise, splinter free cuts I'd want. So, with the table saw I could do everything I had in mind for the miter, such as cutting 2x4s and 4x4s (with a flip) to size and cutting baseboard molding (hell, maybe even some hardwood flooring one day), and have the flexibility to do other things. The only thing I can't easily do is crown molding, but that's a "down the road" project that I can wait for until I can save up for a miter. Even then, I'd wonder if I'd want a slider if I had the table saw available. Maybe even a single-bevel 12" saw would suffice since I wouldn't be cutting crown larger than what could be nested vertically against the fence. I really appreciate all the advice!

[Jay Nossen]

Chris,
I have a 10" slider that has been beat to hell from years of abuse in the construction industry. I'm no longer a full time carpenter, but plan to buy a new miter saw before running trim and building cabinets for my house. This time around, I'm 99% sure that I'm going with the DeWalt DW716 (non slider). The money I save will go towards other fun tools.

I don't think using a table saw as a substitute for a miter saw is a good idea, even if you build a cross cut sled.

I'm not sure about you skill level or comfort, but your circular saw can easily be used to cut most lumber being used on anything that isn't furniture grade (2x, 1x, 4x4, or 6x6 posts).

edit: My statement about the circular saw was in reference to possibly framing out your basement in the future. For trim work, a miter saw is a must have.

[Ben Rivel]

Ive got a DWS780 with a Forrest ChopMaster and love it. After getting it tuned in Ive had nothing but perfect cuts from it. IMO for the household DIYer a miter saw is a must. And I have a SawStop 3HP PCS sitting on the other side of the shop. Ive always felt a miter saw (sliding or non) is just a tool you have to have in a shop. Try trimming down 6 ft shelves, cutting angled crown molding or chopping up 10 ft 2x4s or 4x4s with a table saw. Its a pain or not even possible. Yes dust collection sucks and the thing takes up a huge amount of room around and behind it and its very heavy (though I rarely move mine), but IMO its worth it.

[Stew Hagerty]

For years, I used a SCMS. I had good, accurate 10" Craftsman w/laser guide left over from my days as a General Contractor. What I found out as a woodworker, however, was that I almost never used the full width capabilities it offered. While at the same time it took up a large footprint on my bench and projected quite far into my work space. So, when I decided to make some design changes in my shop, I sold the 10" slider, and purchased a DeWalt DW716XPS. I could not be happier! The 12" saw has all of the cutting width I typically need. Anything wider I cut on with my crosscut sled anyway. Plus it gives me cutting depth that I never had before. It takes up far less space, it has superior dust collection, dual bevel, and dead on repeatable accuracy. Plus, I absolutely LOVE the XPS shadow line system. For me it was a fantastic upgrade. http://www.dewalt.com/en-us/products/power-tools/saws/miter-saws/12-305mm-double-bevel-compound-miter-saw-with-cutlinetm-blade-positioning-system/dw716xps

(http://www.dewalt.com/en-us/products/power-tools/saws/miter-saws/12-305mm-double-bevel-compound-miter-saw-with-cutlinetm-blade-positioning-system/dw716xps)

[Mike Henderson]

Thanks for the replies everybody! What I eventually came to the realization to (now that I had the funds to seriously consider it) was that if my goal was to get into basic household woodworking (cabinets, shelves, basement storage, etc) then I am better off using that $600 on a table saw. With just a miter I'd be limited to what that and my 6.5" cordless circular saw could do, and even with the Diablo 40T I don't think I'd be getting the kind of precise, splinter free cuts I'd want. So, with the table saw I could do everything I had in mind for the miter, such as cutting 2x4s and 4x4s (with a flip) to size and cutting baseboard molding (hell, maybe even some hardwood flooring one day), and have the flexibility to do other things. The only thing I can't easily do is crown molding, but that's a "down the road" project that I can wait for until I can save up for a miter. Even then, I'd wonder if I'd want a slider if I had the table saw available. Maybe even a single-bevel 12" saw would suffice since I wouldn't be cutting crown larger than what could be nested vertically against the fence. I really appreciate all the advice!
Just a comment, for splinter free cuts on a miter saw, you need to put a backer board on the fence and on the bottom when you make your cut. Sort of like zero clearance inserts on a table saw, but I don't attach mine to the saw, I just put them there when I want a really splinter free cut.

Mike

[Brodie Brickey]

Chris,

You have a circular saw. If you are planning on building cabinets and vanities, I would look at a router before a miter saw.

The router lets you create dados, rabbits, and profiles. You can accomplish the same miter cuts with the circular saw and some jigs.

[paul cottingham]

Honestly, for super accurate trim work, I'd look for an old manual mitre saw. Mines works great for everything but crown, and my house doesn't have any. If I was to trim out my basement with some (likely to hide wires) I would borrow one. I have an excellent non slider dewalt chop saw that I use so little it resides in a neighbours house, cause I use it more over there than here. Pretty sure I could do crown with it if I needed to.

FWIW, I know an old trim carpenter who hates sliders, says they go out of true too easily. Of course, I'll bet a lot of folks here would disagree with him, and my skills are but a shadow of most people here. But his work is excellent, and I can't argue with results.

[Mark W Pugh]

I have a 10" non-slider and a 12" slider. The 10" slider is now used for metal cutting only. I do use my 12" for cutting rails and stiles, and it is smack on, and square. However, my work table is 32" deep to accommodate the slider. I'll never go back from a 12" slider.