PDA

View Full Version : Initial Impression of Grizzly G0636X Bandsaw



John TenEyck
08-04-2016, 8:05 PM
You may remember my post about getting this 620 lb monster down into my basement shop. With that successfully accomplished, I spent 3+ days installing a project before I could get back to wiring it up and trying it out. Yesterday evening I got it wired and some temporary dust collection hooked up. I didn't do anything more than just turn it on and my initial reaction was "Wow, this thing is smooth and quiet.". Wiring to the machine was nothing more than connecting three wires at the junction box on the back of the machine, a five minute job once I had power where it needed to be. FYI, this machine has a 5 HP motor and you need a 30 amp circuit to power it.

The build quality looks very good. Everything fits together precisely and operates smoothly. The table is ground to a very fine finish and was flat with no light showing when I put a straight edge on it diagonally. The handwheel that raises and lowers the upper guide operates very smoothly; same thing for the one that tilts the table. The foot brake stops the wheels very quickly - if you don't use the foot brake the machine will coast for a very long time.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wdhSpALDcF9TbyWBLkiz0WB15vPQjtqtlvu_6DWBld1eHJvSiI SA3adqj6MKqMkitaHbgRM086a0MZTYEtsHzPfettPrWBI4QIac lAGevkRN7WAea9KBGmuMEelDUYRbAAP-X1muDdhIl9rsn13m47NRQ-36TsRGhdXMjlpNyIYOPM876rxXcL1txajbTDnC3oMX5EBwWeLF H27l9upl7CkiaPDpVin4WScEhnjTdlMTqEZAdNr0mN7tsN4U5e DlfA5lnx0STbx4Tyi3K-2Ys8WwZxBUWGqDZULaUCq5wRni-yxfwzp-GyYZj6QNyUowjQnB9KlupaY0qtRfH_R5hSDgb0KhkMwanMScMo 8kDnIQObXuEo9PSlsX5e7qxwog9bQu6VCkCIeR5DBqnepHjaqf Ri04wm9QWS1p2rmR9UuGhzOSjvxLxhacxN1fw78jmm-p6W2sbpG_fJxjA0GFJmH_EuERUICAcn7O2pYvyzV74BNscfRhA SZav0GON1NRoE1-2IjCbE6VffqpCunWAJAAu2tCBq4FfxTh3kQibdJ1ja7zf0JFRA Z8cbXpR6EV4o247Vcc3wUIPFjt9sQLFQ754UxkYFK-=w471-h628-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/k6vXpfyDMFW4PEXlqOIcfI-vHkUrZhVKW1pQAs_2KJqHD5BFeEXFZtMO1m-Wyq4ainJlhO7yCOmpuo2uTiVwguOSXVQmiLrUj_7tQAWeV8Oqj fxge9C0eBO8jbBk0hrSmDgLy_Zsy9TqbW___tg2oGVT31j_kZ6 SWCuNGeMn5-IlemCx0Q4qyPr7Rv6bagNvTZNPMGBGgnFZK0HOtCJzc_0zbyre cBzhdNwICCr-SmdVcJWlWQRi7eNRqB0-d4kV3Jpkaw2byzZcDzdy7fhyriIb9xpnTWlx1iszrZKqG8CniS hi_umIlh79Ijg03QFQJNQKpgbv2116vGDjEM9fXnVHgg_zrmOY 7Kcl0mGLWdAsiAKCb6x1qlfP109KutXnd1sSNaGBhbU0pRWsMC hXyNYW8lhs4dQOI381xTnPZltm2hft1Rnep8Fi3h8jFp2xHxfx 9b_KS1wYbrRN1KyDLnczoIfYgsR05tPFcPKn1tLAQVA2tBTI6Y U9uVXR3dJrnQS_9juUUS7kOw4Byv8P644VNtjLnMldPJH8ji75 mY45g5ao58mAKW2SrLpho73hpv6SUkmbnFQNOAjMDqvpSPBnFf NcApMz=w640-h480-no

Today, I followed Grizzly's procedure for tracking and tensioning the stock blade and setting the guides. To track the blade you just center it on the upper wheel; same as I would do on my little Delta. BTW, the wheels are 1-3/4" wide which is pretty massive. The upper wheel weighed 30 lbs.; I didn't weigh the lower one but I would guess it's about 40 lbs. Grizzly's tensioning recommendation is similar to what P. Snodgrass recommends; open the guides, set the tension to the nominal blade width, turn on the saw and then reduce tension until the blade flutters. At that point, raise the tension until the fluttering stops and then add 1/4 turn more. When I did that on both blades I used today the final tension turned out to be one pointer width higher than the nominal mark on the tension gauge. When that was done I set the roller guides for a 0.004" clearance, and the rear bearing for 1/16" gap. Setting the guides was pretty easy with the eccentrics that are used for the side guides, although you need a light to see what you are doing with the lower guides. Here you can see the lower blade guides, blade and wheel brushes, and motor belt tensioning screw. Very straight forward design and clean build.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_8KwrzAO6ZjtWmO00j5svoJRQ0iW19UTeOM9hwgqWg4ooHUHI-xmKaLJqwaGYu2ez27T47zDFPe2ZFnWvZhiZ-Oobo7A6ssLN1aXU9SIHW-sVrGY7fBcBvQDpRnob_JEmFRhgV-77tBtqghLMGSpcRHPU2z1lpkGvjNwLtSEyvF1Qq6Brkh_f0LDj 0peIdozaO87cPWgj73eOiryDTE5Uo5R5sWsAMaF9jjPkM91B9w-8_IWWHaboD3chnX1h7FDlZpp39P5PXGZz-rbEUSsgU3mzar9ByoLlgchjMxMBjdH5yeqNTvaNIy0GV2QqxpN ndlwGu4jDlliB_1TbgYGZMwrnd8fPmtOV_sM8TGsfQK-VfYANuXiu5TSZNccBneIs0f7Dwp_FkS6SuWFWjFNrUjaJYbbZh s0koZIddyImhaniZFmPcmz0t8hBTCBTFS6GQY-c7WspUrczchUJppRDJedjwsQVo2xUyxiroEYe3E143PEgcFKzT xt0XSbuEYGgnnTgcbJbGsI83NuuURRpwj7Uy6TeK3K2ZSRO2UL 25YYC6nu8fOt7O0WN77I0tmx4YLEZ354-ppZ1PrKRnbHofWq_Z6Wbe8X=w640-h480-no

There are two 4" dust ports on the machine:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/v7bwrMR9y4rKFgpDHlr4uWiED96jGH0UgW310DRYR0UThV3sHP 81F-isOkIDpMbZyg_Q7xpkbIT3ZB7dWOVNNdVR9HmXkBVuMbX3O4mD hNAdxl6PEMM2d6j_U5IcV14qhGqO-X2wRs9T6lAIJIhPc2sdWNluI5XD-3SvF2EUk2OxVofMMyyJAKEnQCdtA_uvPqMkz8NRHz_LVG-XY9c9K7vItmJM8xizXQZxV7OAgmtIgcomZjdN-6UO0EDGqcxkRDFqCc9zXzMWHBfRd-vNPmfgyFrf7jYuzuRmhR1UWmZrRVmoRthiyKKCCFiG5kvz4Z-0dLhepcpzCAh4aVqtK2DK0PFVuRLLjqHGQ30xsLuu9hsxgIr6Q MgovBO9mGALRMVhkrq6VQkt7L8ddqawR20rPoE2p_lfOSa_ng8 6ELqXPBliVOWZen0_qMF1XaRkazzWgVFFSFMaGgqgCK6L4hyI6 HwJO50dTsI1x0tbpe7tV9jDfFtXaJ5BLjFcJuQhehVcq0V6VzJ WB4gc6RigMVVq713cFCCDQv7wB8-FkEyfCZWswS7RLIt5dpCtfFdlUCO1DSY-lsGm6E-UudkAohyZeG5lX7RQ=w640-h480-no

I found the upper blade guide to be parallel in both planes with the blade over it's full range of travel. It can be adjusted but I didn't need to. The table was square to the blade when I set it at 0 degrees on the scale on the back trunnion. The trunnions are pretty massive, too, and the table tilts very smoothly with the handwheel, which you can barely see a portion of to the right of the motor, partially hidden by the DC hose. Because I had removed the table (which I estimate weighs at least 75 lbs) when I moved the machine into the basement, I had to realign it so that the miter slot was parallel with the blade. I did that with no trouble following Grizzly's manual.

The fence was easy to adjust via set screws to be both parallel with the miter slot and plumb with the blade. Simple and effective. I think a drop of Blue Loctite on both pairs of set screws is in order to keep them from vibrating out of adjustment.

I used the stock 1", 4 tpi blade to take a couple ripping cuts in a piece of 6/4 oak. It cut nice and parallel with the miter slot w/o adjustment. Then I set the fence to take off a 1/16" slice in the board which was about 6" wide. It cut fine though you had to push on the wood to feed it through. I didn't measure how long it took but I'd guess at least 20 seconds to cut the 20" long board. The surface was not particularly smooth.

I then decided to do a little comparison with my Delta 14" with riser block. It has a Starrett 1/2", 4 tpi blade on it. I jointed the board smooth and took a slice off it. It took 45 seconds to cut the 20" length; the surface was pretty smooth, smoother than the 4 tpi blade on the Grizzly gave. Then I changed the blade on the Grizzly to the 1", 1.3 tpi Woodmaster CT that I bought specifically to resaw and slice veneer with.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ARsD9RZgtwlI-HouIbJpxcVUpHFgtMgxDYeylOCq62BVS9NUOFNXokscmaUSOOt rHb6tJfeMCS2Rkl_3Vngg1KkgdhYUhjy-6oNzxVr5mS3qyk3QoEc6BEqVQ8MU7Dv-na4D_REGasOjLZY_9GP7bp4k5gXpN5tk4aaUtDySxIfyKI2AJu beWnlAQNHP6eijp7Iuawsgx9XRVHVxnCSWv5MeqR4JKsUk6UGU 6Db0WLZwDxsFMAox5WYi55Gf_mUIu-qs6GLsDduuL3xX3nnNKbrOm2lDkYRu6teju1HAO0PlL_c_J4ts TQVulpNrYG2XFP8I0xiyt72k15yiIbzaBQueqyI3eo70dTSDiv XyAspRLDpo3ZD3UuIUucpNOhGMai3cP9czcwegOWCQ8AKdTv9T mHGRPRB438QkP2LLEN20GYHhhDWQIFkPcr_S114URQBRpBJ2Hl ybjv9vwezpmONtuWTpnPBMN8hVcBFj2T32eiHSEL5hm8JZuWA5 KHfBUpFz7woion5Ft8r1uWpEJ7T5CydCscbr-ttNRvkgtkBJkwKCqkWaC3xrViaFCpUjSadXzCT6BYd341aHgeD BHeOUGepxrJTK=w471-h628-no

I went through the same tensioning and setting of the guides procedure that I had with the factory blade. With that done, I jointed the face of the board again and then took a slice on the Grizzly. It gobbled it with no effort. It took 15 seconds to cut it and the surface quality was beautifully smooth, at least as smooth as a Woodslicer. I'm sure I could have cut it much faster if I had just pushed harder.

Here are some photos which might show you the differences.

Here's my Delta:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5FVE34Gx89rVk7WccM67l_ZLJKMFW3eHOvP4vntNNr_Q-NqaBzs7LkQcCZ0J5mjou17CAfJdL1HVXz8ts0b81HEV31Vz6uG x04R8nDvBQaJqoHGNBnAu2p52bfEG3B0AdFsoW_Pq6zXIYneoR xuC1r5oEQIxlJvtZgpZVCHm38m-qQtIyPKzJbuAzHwEjSdz1A3ATmrV8AHcZE0_Ti85XL7-ALc5UlcVerAbwGSK1NH2AZ87UyDJ1F3a4mhArqAbVHkCcKvaxP 4ac0-PSNmK0dAWIhw5TswkI55yl7en9mGEBF090qLqRIYL9fPbNQdro QFGHDIoccqWoAMmCrnna6suT3atqWBt85lXSfYlcfXPFQgeD11 tJmm_63AUzKez95snPceQAwQwBsGURXljbo6rYyf6V7gkgoIdN YrEsPEVJCEh8nOws0gGf3YTahxjAwcoMERuctyB_hphItqtRbm VjIaMerin2KdsKVCZdT4wt8ql64mLWDyrcMVbLZjJYHaegVImf jpRI1J1RAhRPm6UMpwOy3sz-_C6wQkqqQKFGsPKZEFkagP4ekJpjBtWaclZd6wt9gYsT-Zsgqex2NouszvSZSZu=w640-h480-no

The stock Grizzly blade:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9pnbhAwkVzeZiCW4JHmk5bYvrPF5NLHraKy5IyQckUwQ5zRBhI fXD3MP22kuUwtfYWyzwa8hb-4ptU5gVLi0PJdCvo9sguskBxf7TcQwqSORniu1x3YBEaBosi1_ lKEm-rye_QMBeL9shvacTUxZZuIzIO4T7KecuLNJ8ULCNx8AZLPlAwr 3hqrlecgXm_J2vASmuAzhuf_vTXs1PEWfeYKb9hplR5swRYVHQ dUMj2rOT72Ku6MsVShvJHqRrEugeLujvMGe7oIhQcAb49dijwm vA198SU9XtHbsZx2jU_KJc89Bg3giqlFM8jrRmdE_C8L2Au-YnXBec7oZLOVmgIpQXMjExMRHE-4EOcDXBw7wx6boMUPhKZFXBgMUGLOzE1Wroh_Z0vVBcxwIH5jc F7L3oE1nsC9lCuULxMHFZFIlylK3SMxuZ6eViDynn1YYOgfPQ1 G0kmA1KteYu_Tlg00ZUh1GcmaaarnlaYUgYBo5Wf9zgiarNuVE Ym7I5JKmf96NvztsB1Oc7RjWmcnNIoBPWZrAEfhJo3yZTQO9dV c9jye3hT5PRskwQ8SOqBnm26KERJad-EBL_qLwLMqnbrygRH6iwwoa=w640-h480-no


and the Woodmaster CT:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qzsb06hPkgELrQgpkJxZw_yvdzVim6pPnPZmbMBWLn0A_nmnJt 9fmXsGcytgOQvySiW2R3Du0hUTrP5jOmzdV4-0OmTTFUxiHQx6a7ztFmyFLardBsj9BGQWqMS4l6QXZ6qgNxfGo 6NCIlv2GdCJb_skdexQH9C1RVNj0qpRCi2nNwOSIuItlMnDnTv RU8UVNEtNSIrG1O1pd_bkl67O1Age3wwv--vlVkrWdFMj1-ewxsuGjUgtqJs4eTY4bQ20EUwNrqgTz82auuVPJ_XdW6p2pyZR 5CjtH9J7GIB5B2TOFsIukv2v55JvstGbxe2GOHU0IpD773hW4c mFi1EnJamZzfreaKPThkfHoRMRsIx6ki-5wcjQRmkUDBYNpet9XI62O9xQoVaLw07sGAiHWqSEXVh9TSUPd vxVDXE73QXFzf-V2C1QBScw8r4gQbmH6E50fhVw2UV0PlIARMw66tNJO_UMcNUJK xx836gTSqmiKAiVHadXHhhhn8HTzMpbY7-zuPINvaT4DDJPb7PCoGsTaduTz82ItzIIyrk4sPIvoYYgciEmq O_3ct96qzLLWxS8v_dpb1S5_3rxelbyVSnol99t0oL5=w640-h480-no

After I had finished cutting, so maybe 8 or 10 total slices on the Grizzly, there was a fair amount of sawdust inside the lower door. I was a little surprised since my friend claims he has essentially none. Of course, he has a massive Oneida DC system, while I have a 1400 cfm one. Still, I was not impressed and need to address how to improved it. I probably need to go with piping rather than corrugated hose I hooked up just to try it.

My initial impression of the Grizzly G-0636X is completely positive. The build quality and fit and finish look very high, and the machine was in near perfect alignment as received. It runs very smoothly with no vibration. It cuts straight without fussing and the motor powers the blade through 6" wood w/o any effort. I'm looking forward to a real project to give it good workout to get a better assessment of day to day life with it.

John

David Kumm
08-04-2016, 8:42 PM
Nice write up. As you get to wider boards you will find the CT needs higher tension than the steel blades. Probably about as much as you can go. When you push a 12" board through the blade should not back into the rear bearing at all. Good luck. You will enjoy. Dave

Curt Harms
08-05-2016, 7:44 AM
Sweet! That last pic looks very close to table saw smooth.

Jon Nuckles
08-05-2016, 2:32 PM
Thanks for the thorough write-up.

Mike Kees
08-05-2016, 8:22 PM
Thanks for the thorough write-up.
I really appreciate the information you have shared about the new "bear " in your shop. Please fill us in after a couple months go by and you have put that machine through its paces. Really most interested in how it resaws. Thanks again.

Scott DelPorte
08-05-2016, 8:40 PM
Hi John
How do you like how the quick tension release mechanism on that saw works? Its a nice feature to have.
thanks
Scott

John TenEyck
08-05-2016, 9:07 PM
Hi Scott,

Thanks for asking that question. The tension quick release mechanism is a nice feature and works well enough, but it takes a fair amount of force just to release the tension and a lot of force to reapply the tension on a 1" blade. I'm not sure I have enough power to do it with a 1-3/8" blade, not that I plan to ever use one.

I'm happy there is a on/off key switch on the saw. The only way I can remember to reapply tension is to make sure I turn the key switch to the off position when I release the tension. I have a couple of colleagues who never release the tension on their saw, but I think I will with the Woodmaster CT blade as it might help extend the life. What's your take on it?

John

Scott DelPorte
08-05-2016, 9:39 PM
Hi John,
Funny you mention using the key switch to remind you to re-tension the blade before turning it on. I have a little tag with the word TENSION written on it that I hang over the end of the blade guard to remind me.

I release the tension every time I am done with the saw for the day, and then re-set it with a Lenox tension gauge before using it again. I dont use the saw every day and the tension gauge is pretty easy to use, so its not a big deal, but thought the lever idea looked like a nice feature. The saw has a built in tension gauge with marks on it for different blade widths, but its not really accurate for any blades that I own. I have put marks on the built in gauge using a sharpie to indicate the tension setting for different blades that I use, and it is pretty repeatable, however, I usually just use the Lenox gauge anyway.
Thanks
Scott

Allan Speers
08-06-2016, 4:18 AM
John, how does your guides alignment hold up when you raise / lower the column? That's a huge selling point (and rightly so for Laguna & Minmax. I have the 21" Industrial Grizzly, and my alignment stays dead-on, but I've always wondered if I just got lucky.

I think a lot of folks would be interested to here your experience.

John TenEyck
08-06-2016, 10:53 AM
Hi Allan,

As I mentioned in my initial write up, the upper guides stay in what appears to be perfect alignment with the blade in both planes over the full range of vertical travel. The guide post is adjustable but it was perfect from the factory. So that means Grizzly got yours and mine right, which suggests it was more than luck. The saw arrived with the blade installed and under tension. Perhaps they did that as part of the alignment process? In any case, it carried through with the other alignments I checked; perfect.

I resawed a few more pieces of veneer yesterday. With the Woodmaster CT blade it really is effortless and the quality is amazing. Why did I suffer so long with my 14" Delta?

John

glenn bradley
08-06-2016, 11:29 AM
Thanks for taking the time for the write up John. Very thorough and much appreciated.


John, how does your guides alignment hold up when you raise / lower the column? That's a huge selling point (and rightly so for Laguna & Minmax. I have the 21" Industrial Grizzly, and my alignment stays dead-on, but I've always wondered if I just got lucky.

I think a lot of folks would be interested to here your experience.

I don't know if it is luck but, dad and I both have 17" Grizzly machines bought years apart. Both retain alignment despite the guide post position. His 14" Delta from the 1950's is the same but, my little 10" Delta from the 1970's is another story; definitely a hobby machine but, usable.

Peter Aeschliman
08-07-2016, 12:33 PM
John, thanks so much for following through with the write-up!

I agree with Allan that the guidepost alignment is one of the biggest selling points of a high-end saw. So I'm really glad to hear the G0636x checks the box on that. This ices it for me- this is the saw I will buy.

Thanks!!

Peter

Robin Frierson
08-07-2016, 9:57 PM
I received my 636 a couple weeks ago but it wasn't until today that I got a chance to run it with my new Lennox 1" carbide. I was very happy with the results...it peeled off 1/16 slices from a 9in wide ash board with no trouble. Smooth finish and no drift. My saw also maintains alignment through the whole range of the post travel. I been just using the stock resaw fence and its works fine. Hope to try it with some thicker stock soon.

This saw feels a lot bigger than a 17in saw. I used to own a MM 20 and its been many years since I used it, but this saw feels very similar. My Lennox resaw blade will remain on the saw...I doubt I will ever change it. Will get something smaller for curved work. I don't really use the quick release lever. The tension wheel only takes a couple turns to fully release the tension. Very happy with this saw. Need to build some type of outfeed at some point.

Allan Speers
08-08-2016, 3:26 PM
I received my 636 a couple weeks ago but it wasn't until today that I got a chance to run it with my new Lennox 1" carbide. I was very happy with the results...it peeled off 1/16 slices from a 9in wide ash board with no trouble. Smooth finish and no drift. My saw also maintains alignment through the whole range of the post travel. I been just using the stock resaw fence and its works fine. Hope to try it with some thicker stock soon.......



Glad to know so many folks have this same experience, & my G0531B isn't just a fluke. This really says a lot about Grizzly quality, AND their QC.

Rich Riddle
08-08-2016, 3:40 PM
Thanks for the update and glad you safely lowered the machine down your steps into the basement shop. The new blade looks like a good investment. Another thread is discussing receiving one of these this week. If you have time, perhaps you would give advice on removing the crate and moving it.

John TenEyck
08-08-2016, 9:13 PM
I wasn't sure there would be interest in that. OK, I'll post that separately - because it's a long tale.

John