Euro machinery hacks, mods, and add-ons...

[Erik Loza]

Seems like I'm always talking with owners about various mods and aftermarket add-ons for their combo machines, sliders, or bandsaws. Extension tables, digital readouts, etc. This pops up in threads every so often but if you try to search for them, maybe you find it, maybe you don't. So, I had this idea to create one thread where guys can post up their hacks and mods. Maybe make it easier for those doing research or for existing owners looking for ideas? I don't sell accessories, by the way. These are just parts that have worked well for Sam (my colleague and the actual woodworker at Minimax) or for the shop machines. Not sure if putting direct links is allowed here, so will just mention the various US outlets. Google will take you to them...

-Aigner extension tables: Cannot say enough positive things about these. Good on every machine and you can daisy-chain them. You need two parts: The actual extension, then the mounting rail, which are both sold separately. Will run you about $300 per unit. Drilling required but no tapping, since you bolt through the cast iron lip rather than into it. You don't need a jig or anything like that. Just a good bit, corded drill, and steady hands. Sold by Martin USA and Simantech Machinery

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i315/erikloza/Mini%20Max%20Bandsaw%20Works/AignerTableMounting1.jpg
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i315/erikloza/Mini%20Max%20Bandsaw%20Works/AignerTableMounting2.jpg
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i315/erikloza/Mini%20Max%20Bandsaw%20Works/Circlecuttingonbandsaw.jpg
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i315/erikloza/Mini%20Max%20Combo%20Seminars/Aignerextensions.jpg

-Suvamatic guards: Awesome self-closing guards but I have yet to find a US vendor. You could probably order from Scott & Sargent in the UK. Like Aigner stuff, it will earn you lots of miles on that credit card, LOL. These will fit onto any Euro riving knife.

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i315/erikloza/Mini%20Max%20Combo%20Seminars/011ShortRip.jpg

-SIKO digital readouts: SIKO's product range is extensive but the "Magline" readouts and sensors are what you want. It's a-la-carte with these guys. You buy the sensor, the bracket, and the adhesive magnetic strip. IIRC, about $300 per readout but these are top-quality units. Can be adapted to rip as well as crosscut fences.

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i315/erikloza/Siko/002UpClose_zpsa8481e6f.jpg
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i315/erikloza/Siko/005MagTape_zpsc9d6be84.jpg
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i315/erikloza/Siko/001Stops_zps76c6a244.jpg

-Jointech Clincher, for DIY parallel cutting. This is screwed down to the OEM steel side table for the slider (drill and tap holes). You ought to be able to to do the exact same thing to the extension table on any brand of slider. I believe Jointech is defunct now but Incra makes their version of the same thing. I'm no expert on Incra products but their TS has "the part" you need, in addition to lots of parts you don't. I imagine they might just sell you the components you need, a-la-carte.

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i315/erikloza/Mini%20Max%20Combo%20Seminars/012LongRip.jpg
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i315/erikloza/Minimax%20sliders/006ParallelJigMounted_zps54eea6d5.jpg

That's what I've got for now but I'd love to see everyone else's mods or aftermarket parts. I know there are lots of Wixey readouts out there, for example.

Erik

[Jeff Duncan]

I'll just say I have a couple of the Aigner extension tables and while they are pricey....they're worth every penny!

JeffD

[Joe Calhoon]

The Aigner tables are great. As Jeff says pricy. We have 2 and have almost every machine in the shop fitted with the bars. They spend most of their time on the shapers and S4S machine but useful on all.
Most everything Aigner makes is possible to duplicate with shop made fixtures. The trade off is the Aigner gear takes only seconds to set up and right the first time.

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In the last photo you can see the Aigner bars fitted to the Maka and bandsaw.

[Brad Shipton]

Mac Campshure's Airtight Clamps are another great add on. I am surprised none of Joe's pics have any.

[David Kumm]

341971341972341973Airtight clamps on several machines. The Knapp also has an extra start stop on the slider that is a mod. Dave

[David Kumm]

341974Digital ( Proscale ) crosscut fence on old Wadkin. Dave

[Joe Calhoon]

Mac's clamps are great.
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Costing only your time the Fritz Franz jigs are useful for the slider.

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[Susumu Mori]

Hi Joe,

I found the F&F jig doesn't work well for the second rip using the rip fence as a guide because rip fences are usually set slightly toe-out to the right, while the slider is toe-out to the left, so that they are not parallel with a noticeable amount.

As I slide the board through the blade, it starts to move away from the fence slightly (instead of move along the face of the fence), ending up with non-parallel cut. I have an extra fence that is adjusted to be parallel to the slider motion with shims, but unless the boards narrow, I just use the regular rip fence for the second rip. I'm still experimenting several ways (the F&F jig with depth stops or a shop-made parallel fence on the slider), but I tend to use a bandsaw for narrow boards.

I would appreciate it if you could share your experience with the F&F + rip fence operation.

[John Lankers]

Hi Joe,

I found the F&F jig doesn't work well for the second rip using the rip fence as a guide because rip fences are usually set slightly toe-out to the right, while the slider is toe-out to the left, so that they are not parallel with a noticeable amount.

As I slide the board through the blade, it starts to move away from the fence slightly (instead of move along the face of the fence), ending up with non-parallel cut. I have an extra fence that is adjusted to be parallel to the slider motion with shims, but unless the boards narrow, I just use the regular rip fence for the second rip. I'm still experimenting several ways (the F&F jig with depth stops or a shop-made parallel fence on the slider), but I tend to use a bandsaw for narrow boards.

I would appreciate it if you could share your experience with the F&F + rip fence operation.



I realize the question wasn't addressed at me but I use thin notepad paper (0.05 mm thick) - or if that's to much old phone book paper is even thinner - as shim between the fence rail and the mounting block. I do not mess with the actual fence settings to make temporary adjustments.

[Martin Wasner]

Since basically all of the line bores are from European manufactures I think this counts.

Offset your bits. Set one high, the next low, the next high, etc. The offset doesn't need to be much. 1/32" is usually more than enough, and a 1/16" is probably over kill.

Penetration is cleaner and actually faster. If you've got an ancient line bore like I've got, it's a god send for punching through the veneer on mdf.

The downside is if you don't like your holes to go all the way through, and you use shelf pegs with longer pins, this creates problems with that.

[Joe Calhoon]

Hi Joe,

I found the F&F jig doesn't work well for the second rip using the rip fence as a guide because rip fences are usually set slightly toe-out to the right, while the slider is toe-out to the left, so that they are not parallel with a noticeable amount.

As I slide the board through the blade, it starts to move away from the fence slightly (instead of move along the face of the fence), ending up with non-parallel cut. I have an extra fence that is adjusted to be parallel to the slider motion with shims, but unless the boards narrow, I just use the regular rip fence for the second rip. I'm still experimenting several ways (the F&F jig with depth stops or a shop-made parallel fence on the slider), but I tend to use a bandsaw for narrow boards.

I would appreciate it if you could share your experience with the F&F + rip fence operation.

Susumu,
I have heard this from others. I know the material stays against the fence and I think the Martin has very little toe out on either the fence or slider compared to others. I will check this later today with calipers and let you know what I get.

We usually size everything through the planer or S4S for width. If I need a accurate rip beyond the capacity of these I use the parallel fence on the slider.
We use the F&F mostly for odd cuts and rips. We have a SLR to do most of the ripping. I will check it out though to see.

[Joe Calhoon]

Since basically all of the line bores are from European manufactures I think this counts.

Offset your bits. Set one high, the next low, the next high, etc. The offset doesn't need to be much. 1/32" is usually more than enough, and a 1/16" is probably over kill.

Penetration is cleaner and actually faster. If you've got an ancient line bore like I've got, it's a god send for punching through the veneer on mdf.

The downside is if you don't like your holes to go all the way through, and you use shelf pegs with longer pins, this creates problems with that.


Martin,
That is a great idea. We used to have a air operated double line bore and remember the hesitation and pop when the bits first hit the material.

[Martin Wasner]

Martin,
That is a great idea. We used to have a air operated double line bore and remember the hesitation and pop when the bits first hit the material.


I've got an ooooold Ritter R46 that is belt driven on both heads. I snapped a belt on it once when it stalled the spindles and the knurling on the drive pulley sawed through the belt on the front head. It happened in a split second. I think the offsetting helped alleviate that problem too. Not an issue if you've got a modern gear driven model, but it likely helps with the longevity of those gears too.

Tapered bits help, (and probably work the best), but they're usually for through drilling on machines like a Gannomat. They're also about three times the money of the forstner style as well.

[Kevin Jenness]

Susumi,

If your fence is not parallel with the slider travel, then the first cut and all others with the workpiece aligned with the fence will be out of parallel. You can use John Lankers' method to compensate or align the fence and slider more closely with the blade. I prefer the latter and have never had a problem.

When you use the crosscut fence and the retracted rip fence together you get parallel cuts because you are using the crosscut fence for alignment and the rip fence only as a stop.

[Susumu Mori]

Thanks John, Joe, and Kevin,

I guess I start to understand why I sometime see successful second rips by F&F in Internet. Some high-end saws have their slider and rip fence quite parallel from the factories, it seems. I think this would require much tighter QC because of the danger to sell saws with toe-in fences. The toe-out of my Hammer is within the spec, but in this way, slight QC wobble of the fence setting would not lead to toe-in. This would make the tolerance much easier. At least that's my take. Anyway, mine are not parallel for sure.

I'm using John's approach (I have extra fence with shims attached), although mine need more shims than John's (2 layers of 3M). Maybe I'll try to set the fence and sliding table more into parallel. Changing fences is always a chore...

[Chris Padilla]

I have "Incra Railed" my J/P and my band saw. The table saw already came that way via the fence but after staring at the two outfeed tables I use (use to be available from Woodpeckers but they haven't made them in several years I believe), I thought they would work well on my other two major pieces of ww'ing equipment so I bought some rail and brackets, drilled some holes, and I had myself support tables for when I need them. They work quite well but aren't the fastest to level and setup but good enough for me! :)

Added: That is a MM FS41-Elite J/P and a MM20 band saw.

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[Patrick Harper]

Does anyone have pictures of the Aigner extensions on a Minimax FS30?

[John Lankers]

Thanks John, Joe, and Kevin,

I guess I start to understand why I sometime see successful second rips by F&F in Internet. Some high-end saws have their slider and rip fence quite parallel from the factories, it seems. I think this would require much tighter QC because of the danger to sell saws with toe-in fences. The toe-out of my Hammer is within the spec, but in this way, slight QC wobble of the fence setting would not lead to toe-in. This would make the tolerance much easier. At least that's my take. Anyway, mine are not parallel for sure.

I'm using John's approach (I have extra fence with shims attached), although mine need more shims than John's (2 layers of 3M). Maybe I'll try to set the fence and sliding table more into parallel. Changing fences is always a chore...

Remember, the toe in / toe out can vary significantly if there is a tiny variation in the straightness of the rip fence mounting rail in relation to the saw blade - meaning a. 001" variance over let's say 10" of rip fence mounting block can translate into .003 over the length of a 30" long fence.

[Jim Becker]

I can tell I'm going to love this thread...thanks for starting it, Erik!

Are those "OEM steel side tables" available independently, or only shipped with certain machines? I have the miter, but don't have that plain table for my 8'6" slider.

[Erik Loza]

I can tell I'm going to love this thread...thanks for starting it, Erik!

Are those "OEM steel side tables" available independently, or only shipped with certain machines? I have the miter, but don't have that plain table for my 8'6" slider.

Jim, they're available for your S315. PM me if you want me to look into that.

Erik

[Scott DelPorte]

I mounted an adjustable fence (from Laguna) to my MM24. Rather than drill holes in the skirt of the table to mount it, I bolted a piece of angle iron to the existing mounting holes, and then mounted the fence rail to that.
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[Bruce Page]

Erik, this is a very miniscule modification compared to the big-boy mods in this thread, but you asked...

I never liked the cheapo plastic throat plate that came with my MM16 so I made my own.
Fixing a MiniMax 16 Weakness (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?105988-Fixing-a-MiniMax-16-Weakness)

[David Davies]

Here's a site I found a while back that has many ideas for some hacks to make a slider more useful.

http://sawdust.online.fr/en_index.php

Dave

[Warren Lake]

one thing I noticed eons ago was if you rip your final width or close on a saw you get more movement in the wood than if you take it to width with knives, planer or shaper. You would still remove the same material but sometimes or more there is a difference. I asked the old guy once and he said it tension releases different when the material is nibbled away.

[Joe Calhoon]

Hi Joe,


I would appreciate it if you could share your experience with the F&F + rip fence operation.

Susmu,

I did some rips on a 12" X 72" piece of MDF yesterday with the fence pulled behind the blade. Ripping 2- 6mm wide strips with F&F and measuring with calipers to 1/10th millimeter each end. One was right on and one off 0.1mm end to end. There can be some movement with F&F I am sure. I then ripped one using Mac's clamps and it was the same end to end. With the air clamps the hold down is more positive.

I checked fence toe out to the slider table groove. The fence is 1meter long and has 0.15 mm (.006 inch) toe out. Not much, but that is what Martin sets them.
Like I said I do not worry about a little difference here as we can size 10" wide on the planer or S4S machine.

[Joe Calhoon]

Here is more of Aigner gear in action.
This is a cut to saddle a door X brace over the bottom rail using the fingers of the fence. To cut the sharp angle we used Mac's clamps and a counter mitered board.



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[Robert LaPlaca]

Erik, this is a very miniscule modification compared to the big-boy mods in this thread, but you asked...

I never liked the cheapo plastic throat plate that came with my MM16 so I made my own.
Fixing a MiniMax 16 Weakness (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?105988-Fixing-a-MiniMax-16-Weakness)

Bruce, that is beautiful work.. I kind of remember seeing that mod previously, but couldn't remember who performed it..

[Bruce Page]

Thanks Robert. It's still going strong.

[Kevin Jenness]

Warren, if that works for you, keep doing it. In my experience any movement related to sizing a workpiece correlates to the amount taken off, not the method used to get there.

[Warren Lake]

thats understood done 10's of thousands of feet on regular cabinet saws, nos splitter or blade guard sometimes a finisihing nail in the insert. Its still a fact and ive seen it enough times wood responds a bit different if taken off that way than a saw blade, say ripping styles for a cabinet door. Where it was most pronounced was ripping a mitre on solid. Most stuff i have already ripped oversize jointed and its still a bit oversize. I dont have issues its just something I noted along the way and wondered and said it seems to respond differently, as usual he had an instant answer.

Got a call first thing this morning call an ambulance get there quick, so been at the hospital and going back, I still have 1000 questions but time is his right now. If you can try not to get old, that whole golden years thing is just a trick.

[Bill Adamsen]

The Knapp also has an extra start stop on the slider that is a mod. Dave

Cutting panels today (on my Knapp) I was thinking how sweet that would be. Was that a factory option Dave or a later mod? If the latter, tips on how you did it would be helpful. I got so far as picking up a screwdriver to disassemble the switch box, and got distracted.

[Erik Loza]

Erik, this is a very miniscule modification compared to the big-boy mods in this thread, but you asked...

I never liked the cheapo plastic throat plate that came with my MM16 so I made my own.
Fixing a MiniMax 16 Weakness (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?105988-Fixing-a-MiniMax-16-Weakness)

I remember that and it's probably the nicest piece of equipment I've seen anyone put on one of these guys!

Erik

[jack forsberg]

mine is more a hack made with junk i had around. junked to stock brush motor for 5 HP 3 phase made Ampco bronze guides and added a power feeder.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?207596-Hitachi-B600a-Re-saw-and-Motor-question

http://i927.photobucket.com/albums/ad111/tool613/wadkin/600004_zpsa5b35b3a.jpg


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZP-eDA51Nhk

[Nick Hicks]

"-SIKO digital readouts: SIKO's product range is extensive but the "Magline" readouts and sensors are what you want. It's a-la-carte with these guys. You buy the sensor, the bracket, and the adhesive magnetic strip. IIRC, about $300 per readout but these are top-quality units. Can be adapted to rip as well as crosscut fences. "

I would be very grateful if Erik, Sam or anyone who has fitted a SIKO DRO on the crosscut and/or the parallel fence explain how they went about it. I read the Magline catalogue but I don't think I'm any wiser. The normal scales are OK but I have trouble reading the finer measurements and the digital read outs would be a blessing :)

[David T gray]

"-SIKO digital readouts: SIKO's product range is extensive but the "Magline" readouts and sensors are what you want. It's a-la-carte with these guys. You buy the sensor, the bracket, and the adhesive magnetic strip. IIRC, about $300 per readout but these are top-quality units. Can be adapted to rip as well as crosscut fences. "

I would be very grateful if Erik, Sam or anyone who has fitted a SIKO DRO on the crosscut and/or the parallel fence explain how they went about it. I read the Magline catalogue but I don't think I'm any wiser. The normal scales are OK but I have trouble reading the finer measurements and the digital read outs would be a blessing :)


siko quoted me $520 for 1 encoder / display and another 150 for the magnetic band, what saw do you have ? to install the scale is pretty easy its just a 10mm band that is adhesive backed the encoder has to stay within 2mm and within some angle to keep its measurement.

[David Kumm]

Fiama is another source. Very similar to Siko and a little cheaper. Dave

[Bill Adamsen]

Does anyone have a remote controlled electro-mechanical or electro-pneumatic lock on their slider for locking the slider to facilitate loading panels? My mechanical lock is in a place that becomes exceptionally awkward once a full panel is loaded. I too often have to get on all fours to release the lock. It would seem an ideal candidate for a remote switch right next to the on/off on the end of the slider (thanks Dave K for the advice on moving that switch).

[Rich Riddle]

Some of those machines with their add-ons are bigger than the shop.

[Brian Lamb]

We are retrofitting the Fiama DRO's to the parallel fences we make. They are a little cheaper and easier to integrate than the Siko units. They are very simple to fit to other fence/stop applications.

We make a lot of accessories for Euro sliders and woodworking in general, but I don't want to be breaking the rules of this site by posting links or pictures....

[Erik Loza]

We are retrofitting the Fiama DRO's to the parallel fences we make. They are a little cheaper and easier to integrate than the Siko units. They are very simple to fit to other fence/stop applications.

We make a lot of accessories for Euro sliders and woodworking in general, but I don't want to be breaking the rules of this site by posting links or pictures....

Brian, why don't you become a sponsor here? It seems like there is a market for your stuff.

Erik

[Brian Lamb]

Hi Erik,

Unless I misunderstand, I contacted the site about becoming a sponsor and that entails having a Banner ad? If that's the case, it's too expensive on the very narrow profit margin we have on our parts. We designed things because we are woodworkers and found that especially given that I work from a wheelchair, certain items really help out. Kind of blossomed into a small product line over the past 4 years or so, but it's not like I have the sales like Sawstop, SCMI, Felder or the likes to pay for forum advertising.

Now, if there is some other form of sponsorship that doesn't entail $600 for three months, I'd be interested to know.

[Jay Runde]

Brian,
I am wondering if Erik is talking about "Friends of the Creek" (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/friends.php?do=signup).

[Nick Hicks]

siko quoted me $520 for 1 encoder / display and another 150 for the magnetic band, what saw do you have ? to install the scale is pretty easy its just a 10mm band that is adhesive backed the encoder has to stay within 2mm and within some angle to keep its measurement.

Thanks David,

I was looking to buy a SI 400 Nova with DROs but the price of those (3k for crosscut fence DROs + 1.2k for parallel fence) made me wonder if I could just rig up some DROs myself. I assumed the magnetic tape was just a "stick-on" but the real work would be attaching the read head and DRO to the flip stops and the parallel fence. In the photos of Sam's setup in Erik's posting, it looks as if he has modified the flip stops to attach the DROs so I was looking for some guidance if anyone had undertaken this modification.

Cheers,
Nick

[Erik Loza]

..In the photos of Sam's setup in Erik's posting, it looks as if he has modified the flip stops to attach the DROs so I was looking for some guidance if anyone had undertaken this modification.

It's been ten years and yes, there was some drilling and tapping but my recollection was that that it was not mechanically challenging in any particular way. Drill press, bits, some mocking up, that type of thing. If you had the parts in front of you and are mechanically inclined, I think the best path would present itself. The key is to get a magnetic tape that fits into the aluminum extrusion.

Erik

[David Kumm]

The real difficulty in making digital stops is how to incorporate the pull out fence extension and make it work. There is a bunch of additional engineering to put a second tape on the inner extrusion tube and add a head to track it while the extension pulls out. The more I play with making my own, the more i realize that 3K is likely the price point to make it worthwhile for a manufacturer. Dave

[Brian Lamb]

The real difficulty in making digital stops is how to incorporate the pull out fence extension and make it work. There is a bunch of additional engineering to put a second tape on the inner extrusion tube and add a head to track it while the extension pulls out. The more I play with making my own, the more i realize that 3K is likely the price point to make it worthwhile for a manufacturer. Dave

Dave, Not as difficult as you think, just need two units. One digital stop fits on the regular cross cut fence, reads out to the end of the fence extrusion. Your extendable portion would have to have a u-shaped stop that when closed, reaches at least to the furthest point of the regular digital stop. Then you mount the read head above the extending portion on the main fence and read the mag strip mounted on the extending portion.

These units are programmable for the direction it reads and they can be set to start at some specific dimension when "zeroed". So, say your extension stop makes it to 58.118" from the blade when fully closed, set that as a parameter that when you close the extended portion and zero the scale, you'd be reading 58.118". Then any extension of the stop, just adds to the base number of 58.118".

Yes, it would take a bit of messing about to calibrate things, but no hill for a stepper... as they say. With the Fiama units, you are at roughly $200-$275 per readout (depends upon integrated read head or wired) and about $100 per meter of the mag banding, which by the way is about 10mm wide and 2mm thick if I remember correctly. I have one of the read heads and a small chunk of the band here for prototyping purposes, looks like a quality product, we are excited to get into production with them.

[Jim Becker]

Brian, that zeroing thing for accommodating the extension is a great suggestion!

[Brian Lamb]

I went out this morning and took some pictures kind of mocking up the DRO and banding. I have a 2001 vintage Felder KF700, so each machine would be different, but these things are small, versatile and the banding is easy to double stick tape down just about anywhere.

This picture shows the banding on the fence extension, DRO sitting about where you would mount it. This application would need a unit with the remote sensor. I would actually mount the banding on the opposite surface of the pull out rod, and machine into the bottom rear of the fence extrusion to mount the read head. Not how everybody could do it because I have the machinery to do it, but this kind of shows how versatile these can be.

Oh, I will comment on the necessity of this portion. I pull out that extension a couple times a year, 99% of all my work gets cut up with the stops on the regular portion of the fence. So given the cost to mount a second DRO unit, I'd probably just use the existing tape and deal with the DRO on the portion of the fence I use 99% of the time.

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This picture shows how it could mount next to or on top of a modified fence stop, mag banding slides right into the recessed area for the tape

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Next two show where the magnetic sensor is on the all in one unit, and the mounting faces

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[Erik Loza]

...Oh, I will comment on the necessity of this portion. I pull out that extension a couple times a year, 99% of all my work gets cut up with the stops on the regular portion of the fence. So given the cost to mount a second DRO unit, I'd probably just use the existing tape and deal with the DRO on the portion of the fence I use 99% of the time...

Ditto for my experience. In fact, when Dave mentioned this, I actually had to scratch my head and think about how SCM does it when you telescope the extension. The Invincible machines communicate distance wirelessly with each DRO, so it does not matter where they are but I need to go back and look at the Nova drawings. On the shop slider, we rarely are doing any crosscut so wide that you have to telescope out the extension. I could see it being more of an issue on machines with short stroke sliders, where the extrusion is not as long but on 8.5' or 10.5' machines, I can't remember actually missing that ability.

Erik

[Erik Loza]

All the Euro machines have Metric dust ports. Typically 100mm or 120mm. No need to pay for tin couplers (unless you want to). Rubber sewer pipe fittings from Lowes/HD work fine and will run you about $10. "Fernco" is one brand.

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i315/erikloza/Fernco/Fernco%20fitting%2011_zpsvd6k6non.jpg
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i315/erikloza/Fernco/Fernco%20fitting%2031_zpshjjpou8c.jpg

Erik

[Chris Padilla]

I have 6" hose for my DC fitting to my j/p so I had Oneida make a 120 mm to 6" (or ~4 3/4" to 152.4 mm) coupler for me. I like the idea of the Fernco coupling as 4" and 100 mm are pretty darn close to each other...which is what I assume those two are in the picture.

[David Davies]

Any taper jigs?

[Martin Wasner]

All the Euro machines have Metric dust ports. Typically 100mm or 120mm. No need to pay for tin couplers (unless you want to). Rubber sewer pipe fittings from Lowes/HD work fine and will run you about $10. "Fernco" is one brand.

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i315/erikloza/Fernco/Fernco%20fitting%2011_zpsvd6k6non.jpg
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i315/erikloza/Fernco/Fernco%20fitting%2031_zpshjjpou8c.jpg

Erik

That's a good idea. I've been using duct tape wrapped around the port to make it bigger then just sticking a reducer on it to get it back down to whatever size.

[Jim Becker]

Martin, the Fernco rubber connectors slip relatively snugly on the 120mm ports that are common on Euro machinery and a 5" hose clamps over them perfectly as illustrated in that photo that Erik posted. It really is an elegant and inexpensive solution!

[John Lankers]

Any taper jigs?

Not really, you can see several ways to cut tapers in the pic and they're all repeatable - another option would be with Fritz and Franz.
Edit: NEVER use the Kreg clamp with the shaper!!!

[Bill Adamsen]

I added a bayonet quick connect (Spiral J-Lock) to the 120mm port using a Fernco. I find that approach fast for switching dc hose on a Euro JP.

[peter gagliardi]

I have a simple add-on to my back fence fixture for the shaper.
I have a centerline that is lined up with the spindle centerline marked, and I can use the top of the board as a table and swing and cut partial arcs or perfect circles of various radii. Either by moving the pin, which happens to be a 1/8" x 1" steel dowel pin friction fit into an undersize hole drilled on that centerline, or pulling out the outboard support arm to cut up to about a 90" circle as is, or add on to swing larger arcs.

342475 here you see two locations at the pencil ends, and the dowel pin in the outer hole.
342476

This is much nicer than swinging a router on a trammel for most work, and you can use the feeder as well.

[Jordan Lane]

i'm curious about the miter bar you used in the slot of the slider.....what did you use? , i been looking all over for a solution on my Felder

[Jordan Lane]

ooops that was a question for John Lankers

[John Lankers]

ooops that was a question for John Lankers

I think it's a Rockler, I will get you more details tomorrow.

[John Lankers]

ooops that was a question for John Lankers

Jordan, here are some pics. I used Epoxy and wood screws to install the miter bar into a length of 3/4" BB plywood - should have used beech soaked in oil. The hockey puck makes a solid base for the Kreg clamp - I use hockey pucks everywhere. The Kreg clamp will reach over the crosscut fence when mounted on top of 2 hockey pucks.
As I pointed out in an earlier post - NEVER use these clamps with the shaper, they don't have the holding power.
I will try to upload pictures later, the internet sucks this morning :confused:

Here we go:

[Erik Loza]

John, those are clever. Thanks for sharing. I never would have thought of a hockey puck. We use a small square of leather on ours.

Erik

[John Lankers]

John, those are clever. Thanks for sharing. I never would have thought of a hockey puck. We use a small square of leather on ours.

Erik

Ha, that's because you're in Texas and I'm not :)
They work great under machine bases also and are good for finishing - wood screw through the puck and drywall anchor on top to set the wood on, will never tip over. The sky is the limit.

[Erik Loza]

Ha, that's because you're in Texas and I'm not :)
They work great under machine bases also and are good for finishing - wood screw through the puck and drywall anchor on top to set the wood on, will never tip over. The sky is the limit.

See, you learn something new every day. Maybe I can find a good use for Cowboys merchandise. Then it can at least finish something.

Erik

[Johannes Becker]

Does somebody have experience fitting the Aigner extensions on Hammer A3 jointer / planers? The (potential) issue is the aluminum mounting rail for the fence. I wonder whether there is an elegant way to mount an Aigner extension to it. I am aware that Felder has similar extensions for the Hammer machines. The prices for the tables are a wash but the mounting rails are much more expensive than the Aigner rails (!) and more limited in the different mounting options.
342544

[Chris Parks]

I haven't tried it yet but I saw a Fastcap video where a laser level was installed above the sliding table and parallel with it as a reference line for ripping long planks. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5cxmtbKLG38

The Incra fence on a Hammer slider http://benchmark.20m.com/tools/HammerB3/B3IncraMiterFence/b3_incramiterfenceinstall.html

[Jordan Lane]

thank you John Lakers :)) the more pics the better for me

[Jordan Lane]

actually John i was curious about how you mounted that Incra miter guage not the clamps

[John Lankers]

Jordan, the Incra 1000 fits just fine, there is enough adjustability in the split nylon washers to snug the miter bar up in the Felder miter slot. Just make sure the washers are oriented the same way pushing all equally against the side of the miter slot. I have also a small piece of wood screwed under the leading edge of the miter bar to elevate it enough to keep the face of the actual miter gauge perpendicular to the slider.
I'll post a picture later this afternoon.

[Jordan Lane]

thanks!!!!

[John Lankers]

Here are the pics as promised.

[Erik Loza]

Years ago, when I worked for the "other" company, reknowned woodworker Yeung Chan was a customer of ours. He came to Sacramento to do a seminar on the combo machine and brought a bunch of his own jigs and stuff. he had made all these very intricate jigs for doing finger joints and such on the sliding table. I've still never seen anything like it. Anyhow, one thing I do remember clearly is that he had machined a bunch of T-nuts for the slider out of hardwood, then epoxied in threaded inserts. He had a bunch of them, and could put as many as he needed into the T-channel on the slider.

Guys ask me all the time for steel T-nuts, which seem ridiculously priced from SCM but I still have not seen anyone making these out of wood, which seems so simple. Just an afternoon on your router table and drill press. I don't know if a hardwood T-nut could handle the pressure of an OEM eccentric clamp but it sure could on any small mitre fence or those toggle-type clamps.

Erik

[Jim Becker]

Erik, for the (so far) small amount of slider-slot mounting I've constructed, I did similar to what you just mentioned...machined some scrap oak hardwood and threaded inserts. Works great!

[Andy Giddings]

Erik, there's quite a few of us that make T-Nuts from Baltic Birch with T-Nuts pressed in to the underside, works well and doesn't scratch the table. 3/4 ply works fine, at least for the Hammer slider slot