Chester County Dresser Build

[Mike Allen1010]

Our 24-year-old is making noises of moving out. As much as we’ll sincerely miss having him around, the least I can do is make him a dresser he can put his stuff in.

This is a poplar dresser based on one in a Glenn Huey’s books for a “Chester County Tall Dresser” (sorry I don’t have the actual title-I’m a big fan of Glenn Huey). There are several significant screw ups in the build that caused the final dimensions to be different than those in the book, but the design/construction concept is the same.

I’m horrible at design and don’t expect I will ever have that talent. I’m grateful when I find an existing design that looks good to me. I’m more than happy to copy it and not feel bad in the least. I followed with great interest the “What You Should Be Learning” thread on SMC. My take away is true artists have an eye for design and I’ll never be that guy. I’m totally OK with that. For me, 95% of my satisfaction with woodworking comes from the building process.

The sides of this dresser are frame & panel construction. I didn’t really plan on posting so didn’t take pics of early steps. I like hand tools, but am not a purist. I’m using hollow and round molding planes to create the “raised” portion of the panel because I want to create a 1 ¾” wide ogee profile and I would be terrified to try and do that with electrical router. I’ve grown to like using H&R’s for some moldings/surfaces where I think a custom profile would be particularly noticeable. If the moldings are relatively simple or if I need a lot of them, I’m happy to do them all with an electrical router. I could do them with hand tools, it would just take forever and not be any better.

I recently made a set of three H&R planes. Encouraged by Steve V. this was my first time at heat treating blades, and this is the first project where I really got a chance to use them. I was surprised at how well they worked, even cross grain.
Here are the initial rabbits; for me, getting these the right place based on the shape of the molding profile I’m trying to achieve this one a hardest parts of hand planing moldings. I really struggle with visualizing positive/negative space and it usually takes me longer to layout the rabbits that it does to cut them.
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20dresser/1_zpsvz7kdszo.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20dresser/1_zpsvz7kdszo.jpg.html)

Using shop built round molding planes to create the initial cove on the bottom of the profile long grain/cross grain and finally the upper curve of the ogee profile.
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20dresser/2_zpsjjtqlahd.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20dresser/2_zpsjjtqlahd.jpg.html)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20dresser/3%202_zpsvgsequyv.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20dresser/3%202_zpsvgsequyv.jpg.html)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20dresser/3_zpsejbdh7pi.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20dresser/3_zpsejbdh7pi.jpg.html)

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http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20dresser/6_zpsuu6kzhcr.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20dresser/6_zpsuu6kzhcr.jpg.html)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20dresser/7_zpsesz790jc.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20dresser/7_zpsesz790jc.jpg.html)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20dresser/9_zpszohi8rsf.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20dresser/9_zpszohi8rsf.jpg.html)

[Mike Allen1010]

The carcass side are built with M&T’s. Here is the first of several big-time screw ups; I either made the panels too short, or put the mortices in the wrong place, either way led to a sloppy repair. The assembled carcass sides.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20dresser/10_zpsgipfor7q.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20dresser/10_zpsgipfor7q.jpg.html)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20dresser/11_zpspp0nwz9y.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20dresser/11_zpspp0nwz9y.jpg.html)

Here is using a fillister plane to create a cross grain dado in the carcass side for the bottom. I really like this tool, really pretty fast and accurate- and preferred to an electric router for cross grain dados.
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20dresser/12_zpscooyomkr.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20dresser/12_zpscooyomkr.jpg.html)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20dresser/13_zps1aao9irg.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20dresser/13_zps1aao9irg.jpg.html)

Sliding dovetails for the horizontal dividers. I’m sure there is a way to do this with hand tools – I’m not that bright, did mine with electrical router. I haven’t really found a way to do this with hand tools that isn’t really time-consuming.
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20dresser/14_zps14xmg9ua.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20dresser/14_zps14xmg9ua.jpg.html)


Creating the sliding dovetail for the horizontal dividers. I use sliding dovetails in a lot of my projects and the ECE DT plane is one of my favorite hand tools. There’s nothing extraordinary about it, it just does a job I value really well.
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20dresser/15_zpsizautoyv.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20dresser/15_zpsizautoyv.jpg.html)

Cutting the curves for the top rail that accommodates the first row of drawers. I’m sure this would make a lot more sense if I showed you a picture of the overall design – my bad! When it comes to cutting curves, I frankly that get better results with a small coping saw, vs. a Gramercy bow/turning saw. When it comes to sawing a curve, it’s tough for me to get a good alignment of the layout line, the blade and my eye. There’s usually clean up with spoke shave and rasps to get a fair curve.
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20dresser/1f9bf766-b5c0-44ab-98d5-4e134da2e0da_zpsdymanhbq.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20dresser/1f9bf766-b5c0-44ab-98d5-4e134da2e0da_zpsdymanhbq.jpg.html)

Here is the dry fit of the horizontal rails. Significant screw up #2: I cut very nice dovetails to join the bottom horizontal frame to legs supporting the overall case. Unfortunately in the chaos that is SOP for me when going up carcass, I glued the bottom horizontal framing upside down so the nice dovetails were wasted – I hate when that happens!
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20dresser/16_zpsz7xeovkg.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20dresser/16_zpsz7xeovkg.jpg.html)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20dresser/17_zpsj1wr5p2u.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20dresser/17_zpsj1wr5p2u.jpg.html)

[ken hatch]

Mike,

The panels look good, nice work.

ken

[Mike Allen1010]

Here are some pictures of cutting the M&T’s for the runners/kickers and some pictures of the case with them installed.
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20dresser/18_zpstrlhrk29.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20dresser/18_zpstrlhrk29.jpg.html)

Finish planing of the carcass top. More and more I prefer using wooden body planes. I like their lightweight in the feel of the wooden sole across the workpiece.
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20dresser/20_zpsmereitak.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20dresser/20_zpsmereitak.jpg.html)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20dresser/19_zpsslu99hid.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20dresser/19_zpsslu99hid.jpg.html)


Here is re-sawing 16/4 stock for the Cabriole legs. The legs are 7” tall which is a more than the resaw capacity of my cheesy band saw, meaning I had to re-saw them by hand. I don’t mind getting sweaty (kinda goes with using hand saws), but re-sawing by hand isn’t something I really enjoy. When I win the lottery, my first purchase will be a giant bandsaw. Honestly re-sawing these by hand wasn’t that hard using a 28”, 4 PPI D-8. Rip saws this length/pitch are hard to come by and I wouldn’t part with this one. I also have a 5 PPI bow saw, but because the frames hit on either side of the stock, the D-8 is much more efficient. If I don’t win the lottery/get a giant bandsaw, I might consider making one of the long, 3 PPI frame saws for re-sawing.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20dresser/21%202_zpsgsjg3ufo.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20dresser/21%202_zpsgsjg3ufo.jpg.html)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20dresser/21_zpsni3utllj.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20dresser/21_zpsni3utllj.jpg.html)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20dresser/22_zpsexkc59tl.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20dresser/22_zpsexkc59tl.jpg.html)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20dresser/23_zpsyukzze33.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20dresser/23_zpsyukzze33.jpg.html)

Forming the cove on the outside profile of the ogee bracket feet; a table saw or giant shaper would be great for this job, but since I’m going the Neander route, I tried to remove as much of the waste as I can with a big gouge and follow-up with a #12 round. This is really a lot easier/faster than it looks.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20dresser/24_zps5lssgulo.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20dresser/24_zps5lssgulo.jpg.html)

[Mike Allen1010]

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20dresser/25_zpsns0efrfn.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20dresser/25_zpsns0efrfn.jpg.html)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20dresser/26_zpszubn0jgt.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20dresser/26_zpszubn0jgt.jpg.html)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20dresser/27_zpsog6in0wf.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20dresser/27_zpsog6in0wf.jpg.html)

Using a coping saw to cut the profile of the bracket feet. It was only after I cut these to shape that I realized it would have been much smarter to cut the 45° miter on the end the bracket feet before sawing of profile- opps! Consequently I had to eyeball sawing the miters freehand – a miter box would’ve come in handy!
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20dresser/28_zpsfj5ymhav.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20dresser/28_zpsfj5ymhav.jpg.html)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20dresser/29_zps8zevvj1k.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20dresser/29_zps8zevvj1k.jpg.html)

I can’t resist a bit of handsaw rambling here; the saw I used for the miters is one of my favorite finish cross cutters – a 26”, Disston # 16, 12 PPI. You might be able to see in the picture that the tip is < 1” wide. It seems many people in the market for a vintage handsaw will accept nothing less than a “full factory width” saw plate, and would never consider buying a saw this narrow. FWIW, my view is the only reason a saw gets sharpened this much is because a couple generations found it to be an excellent user – that counsel on in my book. The reason this is one of my favorites is that it’s very light and easy to handle, feels great in my hand, the plate is plenty stiff and the teeth are sticky sharp. I’ll get off my soapbox nowJ.
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20dresser/30_zpsimyfey4g.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20dresser/30_zpsimyfey4g.jpg.html)

Here are the finished bracket feet attached to the carcass.
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20dresser/31_zps7jb0nwxz.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20dresser/31_zps7jb0nwxz.jpg.html)

Here are the runners/kickers for the top row of three drawers. I put this rail across the back of the middle drawer and will build a couple of small hidden drawers. The bottom of the drawers will ride in the groove. My Boys always love the hidden drawers/compartments, and really who doesn’t!
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20dresser/32_zpszp5gfrim.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20dresser/32_zpszp5gfrim.jpg.html)

[Mike Allen1010]

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20dresser/33_zpshnkqwwae.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20dresser/33_zpshnkqwwae.jpg.html)

Here is the assembled chest awaiting the cornice molding.
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20dresser/34_zpscfvkm8ht.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20dresser/34_zpscfvkm8ht.jpg.html)


Here is the layout of the profile of the cornice molding which required waaaaay more geometry than I’m comfortable with.
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20dresser/35_zpssypknesj.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20dresser/35_zpssypknesj.jpg.html)

I used a plow plane to file a couple grooves in the bottom of the cove that the round molding planes could reference off of. I would have been smarter to plow a single groove, but these worked out okay.
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20dresser/36_zpsddwuiclx.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20dresser/36_zpsddwuiclx.jpg.html)


Here is the cove after finishing with a wide round and a curved scraper.
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20dresser/37_zps8qn27lpw.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20dresser/37_zps8qn27lpw.jpg.html)


Here is ripping the 45° miters on the back of the molding to reference the underside of the chest top and the vertical surfaces of the carcass. I did these with a 9 PPI, Sandvick saw. I have a couple of these Swedish saws I inherited from my wife’s grandfather who was a cabinetmaker in Greenwich Village for 40 years. They have some of the best steel in my shop.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20dresser/38_zpsokgowkkp.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20dresser/38_zpsokgowkkp.jpg.html)

Lastly I used a scratch beader to put a few reeds on the bottom edge of the molding. Unfortunately I made this surface to vertical and you can’t really even see them now that the molding is applied.
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20dresser/39_zpsgwkm4bof.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20dresser/39_zpsgwkm4bof.jpg.html)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20dresser/40_zpsy9ozgk9u.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20dresser/40_zpsy9ozgk9u.jpg.html)

[Mike Allen1010]

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20dresser/41_zpsxjif11so.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20dresser/41_zpsxjif11so.jpg.html)

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/mikeallen1010/Taylors%20dresser/42_zps0j1cjvdi.jpg (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/mikeallen1010/media/Taylors%20dresser/42_zps0j1cjvdi.jpg.html)


Thanks for looking, more to follow later.

All the best, Mike

[John Kananis]

Looking great - I can't wait to see it complete. Awesome work on the H&R work - how much time do you think you have invested so far?

[Stewie Simpson]

Excellent work Mike.

Stewie;

[Frederick Skelly]

Another nice project Mike! It's especially fun to see you make the ogee!

[Brian Holcombe]

For a guy who isn't sold on molding planes.....!

Nice work Mike!

[Jerry Olexa]

Excellent work....I too like Glen Huey but he has left Popular Woodworking staff along with 2 0r 3 other staffers...Don't understand the circumstances....I have 2 or 3 of his books...Very skilled craftsman...Like your project too..

[Derek Cohen]

Mike, that is an amazing gift for your son. What a wonderful thought - he cannot fail to be thinking of you/home every day he uses it.

Meanwhile, you appear to have built something quite excellent with the minimum of fuss in the minimum of time. That is the mark of the true craftsman.

I am looking and learning.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Christopher Charles]

Hello Mike,

Those panels look great as do the feet. And when i saw the 4 tpi the theme to a famous movie and the line " i think we're going to need a bigger boat" came to mind...

great work, thanks for sharing and looking forward to seeing more.

Best,
Chris

[Pat Barry]

Very nice work Mike! The proportions look great and the overall front width and height is a close match to the golden rectangle, so given that you probably built this before the other discussion I'd say you have quite a good eye for design;).

One question / comment. The bracket feet look great. If they haven't been re-inforced to the cabinet it would be a good idea because a fully loaded dresser can be a huge load on bracket feet if it ever needs to be moved / slid a little bit, especially on carpet.

[Brian Holcombe]

Pat, it appears to be supported by the framing members which extend to the floor. There is actually a really worthwhile discussion going on at WoodCentral WRT to legs like this.

[Mike Allen1010]

Looking great - I can't wait to see it complete. Awesome work on the H&R work - how much time do you think you have invested so far?


Thanks John for your comments. How much time is a great question. I always enjoy build threads here on SMC, particularly those with hand tools. I'm always inspired and learn lots of new things. I agree it might be helpful for those that are considering building something similar to what they've seen in a thread here on SMC to have some idea of the time investment. I'll try to play closer attention to that and perhaps include some time estimates in future posts.

For this dresser, a very rough estimate of the time to get to the stage shown here is probably about 100 hours (?), broken up into 3-4 hour chunks over several months. There is no carving or inlay on this piece and those of the elements that really takes me a long time, which is probably why don't enjoy them as much as straightforward construction, joinery etc.I am a fast-paced person by nature and tend to work quickly. Of course the irony is because I work fast, I often make mistakes (like those I've mentioned in this thread), which ends up costing more time in the long run to fix, than if I had just been more thoughtful from the get-go:eek:.

There are some relatively minor mistakes I seem to make over and over again – like not sawing the miters on the bracket feet before cutting out the profile. I've made dozens of sets of bracket feet and you think I would know better. On the other hand, the soul crushing types of mistakes, like paring the outside edges of dovetails to get a nice compression fit, instead of the inside edges, I usually only make once. There must be something about the emotional scars from the big mistakes, that makes him easier to avoid repeating.

All the best, Mike

[Don Slaughter]

You continue to amaze me, Mike! Whatta Craftsman you are! GREAT PROJECT. I really appreciate the 'build along' pictorials. Shoulda hollered at me and I would've brought a miter box! But you did an excellent job without it. Can't wait to see the finished product.

Don

[Mike Allen1010]

For a guy who isn't sold on molding planes.....!

Nice work Mike!


Thanks Brian, I love your work and am really enjoying your new website!

I've been having more fun doing moldings with H&R planes lately. The biggest eye-opener for me was making some planes with modern steel blades. I can remember if I bought my molding plane irons from Lee Valley or Lie Nielsen, but the hardening/tempering process wasn't nearly as difficult as I thought it would be and they really do take a nice edge. As you know better than most, sharp tools make every job easier and more fun. If I get real motivated, I should think about replacing the blades in some of the sizes of H&R's I use most often. Even though the heat treating isn't so bad, the grinding and sharpening of profiled blades is still a PITA for me that I try and avoid.

Cheers, Mike

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks Mike! Glad you are enjoying!

Absolutely, and having profiled a few Japanese irons which didn't arrive matched (close....but in hard steel close is miles away), so I know your pain. Once they get working it makes you want to profile every piece of wood in the room.

[Mike Allen1010]

Excellent work....I too like Glen Huey but he has left Popular Woodworking staff along with 2 0r 3 other staffers...Don't understand the circumstances....I have 2 or 3 of his books...Very skilled craftsman...Like your project too..

Jerry, the book this came from is "fine furniture for a lifetime" by Glenn Huey. It has 10 projects with excellent photo/descriptions of the build. Many of the pieces in Glenn's books are what I would call Queen Anne style, but he also has shaker, craftsman, Sheraton and other styles of furniture.Taste is individual, but personally I would be happy to have any of his pieces.

Best, Mike

[Mike Allen1010]

Mike, that is an amazing gift for your son. What a wonderful thought - he cannot fail to be thinking of you/home every day he uses it.

Meanwhile, you appear to have built something quite excellent with the minimum of fuss in the minimum of time. That is the mark of the true craftsman.

I am looking and learning.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Thanks Derek I really appreciate your kind comments, there especially meaningful to me as I am a huge fan of your work.

I hope my son enjoys it – goodness knows he's going to have to move it as it will be way too heavy for me when finished!

Cheers, Mike

[Mike Allen1010]

Hello Mike,

Those panels look great as do the feet. And when i saw the 4 tpi the theme to a famous movie and the line " i think we're going to need a bigger boat" came to mind...

great work, thanks for sharing and looking forward to seeing more.

Best,
Chris


Thanks Chris. I've had hundreds of saws come through my shop over the years, and embarrassingly quite a few are still hanging around:)! In all that time, I can count on one hand the 28", 4 PPI rip saw's I've seen. My experience is there not easy to find, but the extra couple of inches and 4 PPI pitch really do make a bigger difference than you would think as compared to the more common 26", 5 PPI, especially when re-sawing.

Best, Mike

[Mike Allen1010]

Very nice work Mike! The proportions look great and the overall front width and height is a close match to the golden rectangle, so given that you probably built this before the other discussion I'd say you have quite a good eye for design;).

One question / comment. The bracket feet look great. If they haven't been re-inforced to the cabinet it would be a good idea because a fully loaded dresser can be a huge load on bracket feet if it ever needs to be moved / slid a little bit, especially on carpet.

Thanks Pat, but I can't take any credit for the design/proportions – they came out of a book. In my younger days before I had much of a woodworking library and absolutely no eye for design/proportion, I built lots of stuff I designed myself – usually to house something specifically to fit a particular spot in the house. Many times when I was done, they didn't really look quite right to me but I didn't understand why. Now that I understand more about scale and proportion my original designs are little bit better, but I'm still much more comfortable working from a model/plan of an exsisting piece of furniture I know looks good to me. Building copies of existing furniture also has the advantage that I can get prior approval from the Boss, which significantly increases the likelihood the finished piece will make it out of the garage and into the house. In the early days, that wasn't always the case!

I really admire guys like Derek and Brian and the many others here on SMC make their own designs. To me that is the mark of a true artist/craftsman. I'm really much more of a glorified carpenter who just doesn't use nails (very much;)).

I completely agree with you that it is a real challenge to solidly and reliably support the weight of a case piece like this directly on bracket feet alone. Brian is quite right, the stiles of the frame and panel carcass sides extend to the floor behind the bracket feet. In addition there are other pieces on the front/back of the case behind the bracket feet that were supposed to be attached to the bottom horizontal frame by dovetails. As I mentioned, I cut what I thought were quite nice dovetails and matching sockets on the bottom frame, but then cleverly glued the frame in upside down so the dovetails were unusable – I hate when that happens! I had to attach the replacement front and back supporting feet to the bottom frame with butt joints supported with glues and screws. Not nearly as elegant as the original design, but I hope it will be sturdy enough.

Cheers, Mike

[Bruce Page]

Mike, your skills never cease to amaze.

[Pat Barry]

Pat, it appears to be supported by the framing members which extend to the floor. There is actually a really worthwhile discussion going on at WoodCentral WRT to legs like this.
I see now that the stiles from the side panels actually do extend down behind the decorative legs. I would still want a bit more assurance though.

[Brian Holcombe]

I would tend to agree, but from the sounds of it Mike has installed corner blocking to make for additional support.

[Pat Barry]

I would tend to agree, but from the sounds of it Mike has installed corner blocking to make for additional support.
Yes, corner blocks was what I should have picked up on. That'd do fine

[Phil Mueller]

Really impressive, Mike. That will be a nice dresser for your son. A lot of skill with a wide variety of tools. And I thought you could only saw well :)

A couple hundred years from now, some museum curator will publish "how we did it back then" and wonder why such a skilled worker would create "open dovetails". You will likely start another long debated topic equal to the saw nib!

[Mike Allen1010]

Really impressive, Mike. That will be a nice dresser for your son. A lot of skill with a wide variety of tools. And I thought you could only saw well :)

A couple hundred years from now, some museum curator will publish "how we did it back then" and wonder why such a skilled worker would create "open dovetails". You will likely start another long debated topic equal to the saw nib!

Phil, your comments made me laugh out loud- thanks I can always use more laughs in my life!

I'm not sure what is more unlikely ,,that anyone associated with a museum would have the slightest awareness of anything I've built, or that this chest could provoke consideration of the notion of an "open dovetail"!!!

Although your note makes me wonder how many elements of classic , antique furniture that today we consider "the epitome of high fashion/ craftsmanship", would actually have been described by their builders as "field expedient" solutions to problems? I guess we'll never know.

Cheers,,Mike

[Mike Allen1010]

You continue to amaze me, Mike! Whatta Craftsman you are! GREAT PROJECT. I really appreciate the 'build along' pictorials. Shoulda hollered at me and I would've brought a miter box! But you did an excellent job without it. Can't wait to see the finished product.

Don

Don, as always you're too kind!!

I should have known I could count on you for a needed tool like a miter box when the chips were down:)! Next time I'll definitely take you up on your generous offer.

Best,,Mike