adding some colour to a laser engrave

[stan kern]

I have noticed some companies advertising a powder that you spread over the engrave ,brush off the excess and laser again
anyone tried this or is there anything else one can use to add colour to an engrave or partial cut
thanks

[Kees Soeters]

I have tried powder-coating-pigment.. I works but you have to keep your work aligned all the time, turn off the air-assist, off-focus a bit and experiment with speed and power for the best results.
Depending on the material, i had some fine results with a "normal" waterproof marker. The ink will bind very well to the lasered area's on glass, acryl, aluminum and some other "hard"materials. The excess can be wiped of with a cloth.
Even some paints will bind rather good.. I did some gold paint on lasered glass with a nice result..

Kees

[Bert Kemp]

adding color to engravings is pretty easy using many different products such as acrylic paint, spray paint, stain, laser dark ect ect.
I coat my engraving material with clear coat then engrave pretty deep, then clear coat again to prevent bleeding. then paint or stain the engraving and wipe off excess while still wet.You can mask also or sand off the excess. Lots of ways you'll have to experiment to see what you like best.:)

[David Somers]

Bert....just curious. What are you using for a "clear coat?" Do you mean automotive? Or just urethane, lacquer, etc.

[Bert Kemp]

I use water base poly, or a clear rattle can coat


Bert....just curious. What are you using for a "clear coat?" Do you mean automotive? Or just urethane, lacquer, etc.

[David Somers]

Thanks Bert! Was just curious. I have been using Clear Lacquer with an HVLP sprayer when I have a lot of things to do. If I buy sheets of ply for example, or a bunch of boards I will spray them all in one whack. I use rattle cans or a brush for small stuff.

[stan kern]

yes , I have done this also but the steps to go through this process takes awhile and sanding or cleaning , I guess I was hoping this power thing would be less work
So it sounds like is really new out there
Thanks

[Bert Kemp]

I've tried the powder coats and really only got good results with black. Don't know why the colors aren't working for me. The other thing make sure you turn air off. What you do is after you clear coat you engrave, then put some powder coat on and take a credit card, business card, plastic squeegee ect and spread the powder into the engraving. Engrave low power fast speed. It might take a little experimenting to get the setting right. when done I take a vac with brush attachment and suck up all the excess powder. do this while its still in laser to make sure the powder all stayed where its suppose to. Sometime you have to do it again .

[John Blazy]

That seems genious Bert. I will have to try this with my black powder coat. Im surprised why no-one has mentioned epoxy. when I grout black epoxy into the engraved mortice, it flows and fillets real nice into the letters - leaves a shiny smooth surface. Solvent based paints shrink too much (losing adhesion, telegraphing the scan lines), especially the krylon spray cans - 15% solids compared to 100% solids from epoxy.

[Bert Kemp]

what kind of epoxy do you use? Maybe I try that too ;)

[Klaus Madsen]

Thanks Bert! Was just curious. I have been using Clear Lacquer with an HVLP sprayer when I have a lot of things to do. If I buy sheets of ply for example, or a bunch of boards I will spray them all in one whack. I use rattle cans or a brush for small stuff.

Sorry about my maybe dum question, but why are you spraying the ply before engraving? It to make a finish?

[Bert Kemp]

I always finish the wood first then you can add color with out bleeding also makes clean up easier, you have a hard time getting smoke residue off bare wood.

[stan kern]

I use this method with the cnc router (machine out the letters, seal the whole surface paint the milled out portion ,let it dry then sand off the sealed portion and then seal or finish it again)
This works great but there are many steps here and money wise it raises the price of the sign but makes a better sign and people like it.
Labour wise its a lot .
This also works with corian again its a labour intense job
I was hoping there was some simple method, as one company sells powder and "claims' it works on the laser

[Bert Kemp]

I can see how this works, but but if the wood is per-finished and sealed all you need to do is wipe off the excess paint with a damp rag. Of course this only works with water based paints, but its a lot less work and I think the results are the same.

[John Blazy]

what kind of epoxy do you use? Maybe I try that too ;)

I get the epoxy locally here in CLE from a small concrete finish company called Metalcrete Industries (.com) as they sell pigmented epoxies for good prices. The one I use is Lexite 100, but I imagine that there should be others nearer to you that make a pigmented epoxy. I checked my favorite epoxy supplier, Progressive Epoxy polymers, and they dont have black, and US Composites doesn't either (both great suppliers for polymers).

The pic below shows its filleting ability (unlike low solids paints). The letter is about 1/4" tall, so larger, deeper letters would look better. I also wiped it prematurely before it fully cured. If it had cured overnight, it would have retained its gloss.

342133

[stan kern]

(wiping off excess) its true but sanding really makes sure no excess paint is left and makes it very neat looking