Router Table Attachment!

[Mark Eisen]

Apart from the price, what would be the problems with this router table attachment?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/251874849791?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I don't have room for a separate router table, a while ago I bought a router table extension wing, which is a pain in the arse to use. Its OK to use for edge routing, no good if I want to router slots, the first photo shows how little depth I Have.:mad::mad:

http://i393.photobucket.com/albums/pp17/wm460-1/Shed/Routers/P7241469_zpsd6hgcg6m.jpg (http://s393.photobucket.com/user/wm460-1/media/Shed/Routers/P7241469_zpsd6hgcg6m.jpg.html)

The fence turned around the other way.

http://i393.photobucket.com/albums/pp17/wm460-1/Shed/Routers/P7241468_zpscfppdenb.jpg (http://s393.photobucket.com/user/wm460-1/media/Shed/Routers/P7241468_zpscfppdenb.jpg.html)

[Jim Becker]

Mark, in concept, a cast iron router table, whether in an independent stand or added to a table saw is a very nice accommodation. In fact, I say that with experience since I own a cast iron router solution myself and added it to my sliding table saw.

That said, if I'm understanding your problem clearly relative to what you are referring to as "depth", the issue with your current setup is the fence system which looks like it can't adjust back far enough to allow for routing grooves at a distance farther than 35+mm (guessing from vision about 1.5" or so) from the edge of the workpiece. Am I correct about that?

[Mark Eisen]

Thanks for your reply Jim, I took a few more photo's to show the problems.

Back as far as the fence will go.

http://i393.photobucket.com/albums/pp17/wm460-1/Shed/Routers/P7311480_zpshyq3bqfl.jpg (http://s393.photobucket.com/user/wm460-1/media/Shed/Routers/P7311480_zpshyq3bqfl.jpg.html)

As far as it will go forwards.

http://i393.photobucket.com/albums/pp17/wm460-1/Shed/Routers/P7311481_zpss34r0fd3.jpg (http://s393.photobucket.com/user/wm460-1/media/Shed/Routers/P7311481_zpss34r0fd3.jpg.html)


If I turn the fence around the other way.

Max backwards.

http://i393.photobucket.com/albums/pp17/wm460-1/Shed/Routers/P7311478_zpseeeaq7ay.jpg (http://s393.photobucket.com/user/wm460-1/media/Shed/Routers/P7311478_zpseeeaq7ay.jpg.html)

Back view.

http://i393.photobucket.com/albums/pp17/wm460-1/Shed/Routers/P7311476_zps4dh7be0s.jpg (http://s393.photobucket.com/user/wm460-1/media/Shed/Routers/P7311476_zps4dh7be0s.jpg.html)

and forwards.

http://i393.photobucket.com/albums/pp17/wm460-1/Shed/Routers/P7311479_zpsx0p6fft7.jpg (http://s393.photobucket.com/user/wm460-1/media/Shed/Routers/P7311479_zpsx0p6fft7.jpg.html)

Sorry about the way the photo's are, but they are the right way up in Photobucket.:mad:

[John Lanciani]

It looks like all you need to do is drill and tap a few more holes for the fence mounting bolts so that you will have more range of adjustment. Cheaper, easier, and faster than replacing it.

[David L Morse]

The opening in the fence isn't really needed for routing slots away from an edge. Is there a reason you can't use the table saw fence for that?

[Jim Becker]

I like David's excellent idea...

[John Lankers]

In addition you could turn the fence 90* counter clock wise or even 180* depending on the job at hand, all you need to do is tap a few holes.