Powermatic 3520C?

[Steve Mathews]

Apparently the Powermatic 3520 has gone through at least 3 revisions since it was introduced. If they were to offer another revision, 3520C perhaps, what improvements would you suggest?

[Hilel Salomon]

Being able to rotate the headstock 360 degrees would be nice.

[Jon Nuckles]

Better access to work near the headstock.

[Roger Chandler]

A cone shaped spindle housing similar in configuration to the Robust American Beauty or the Oneway 2436, and get away from the square headstock design. Not sure if they copied that feature from Stubby or not, but getting behind the turning to make cuts on the back can be greatly enhanced by the cone shaped spindle housing.

[Ryan Mooney]

A cone shaped spindle housing similar in configuration to the Robust American Beauty or the Oneway 2436, and get away from the square headstock design. Not sure if they copied that feature from Stubby or not, but getting behind the turning to make cuts on the back can be greatly enhanced by the cone shaped spindle housing.

This. So much this. For a lot of projects, not a problem but I've been considering a small spindle lathe for small spindle projects.

[Fred Belknap]

Better banjo that will hold the tool rest firmly.

[Thomas Canfield]

Agree with above but little things also:

1. A better locking mechanism with multiple positions ( at least 8) to hold the spindle when sanding. The index pin is ok for indexing, but not practical for quick use.
2. A spring on the locking lever for the tailstock to hold it up for sliding and not require holding the lever to move the tailstock. I use rubber bands, but real spring would be more lasting.
3. Better door on the tailstock. I am tired of having to rework it .
4. Fix on the tach pickup to prevent loosening
5. Better etching on tailstock shaft. I have about worn mine off cleaning off pitch and sap from green wood.

Ask me later what I really think. I do like my 3520B but there is always room for improvement.
PS - I was encouraged to buy a 1 - 1/4" extension when I bought my lathe, and it has really helped at times to get the access behind the chuck that a cone shape head would do.

[David C. Roseman]

Dust cover for the VFD.

[Bill Blasic]

I sure would be interested in finding out what you folks cannot do at the back of the work piece on the PM. And if your complaining why did you buy that Grizzly? And Thomas what are you doing to that little door :>)

[Roger Chandler]

I sure would be interested in finding out what you folks cannot do at the back of the work piece on the PM. And if your complaining why did you buy that Grizzly? And Thomas what are you doing to that little door :>)
No complaints Bill, just thinking about lathe design in general. I really like my Grizz 0766, and have turned on numerous 3520b's...have a demo next Saturday on one. I like the 3520b, but if a new generation would come out like the OP mentions, then what improvements could be made....well, here is a list for starters, some from 3520b owners.

[Justin Stephen]

Agree with the better spindle housing and the lathe should also come with a settable spindle lock so people don't have to rig an aftermarket solution.

However, the biggest improvement I would love to see is something that wouldn't even require a lathe redesign. I'd love to see a tailstock riser available on a slightly bigger lathe extension kit, a la the new Laguna.

[Pat Scott]

Stainless steel ways! And a 3hp motor. Ditto for a better tool rest lock and spindle lock. It seems like right now the spindle lock has 2 positions that are 180 degrees apart. Something quick like the Vicmarc spindle lock would be nice. Plus something that prevents the lathe from starting if you accidentally leave the spindle lock engaged.

[Bob Bouis]

That door on the tailstock scrapes skin off my knuckles every time I open it. Anybody up for a class action lawsuit?

[Ryan Mooney]

I sure would be interested in finding out what you folks cannot do at the back of the work piece on the PM.

For small spindle work its difficult to get a skew in at the "correct" angle near the headstock (for some value of correct). Its not so much that the tool hits .. much.. but it kind of gets in the way of the rest of my posture. This might be partially technique problems on my part, but rounding off the corners of the headstock would completely solve it. I also purchased a MT extension to help with this, but dislike it as a solution in general (its a smidge fussy imho).

You might ask why I'm doing small spindle work on a 3520 - legitimate question.. its because I only have one lathe and use it for a wide range of projects :)

[Jon Nuckles]

That door on the tailstock scrapes skin off my knuckles every time I open it.

^^^ This! I got tired of the scrapes and just keep it closed.

[Bob Bouis]

Mr. Nuckles, you're the perfect lead plaintiff for the suit.

[John K Jordan]

For small spindle work its difficult to get a skew in at the "correct" angle near the headstock (for some value of correct). Its not so much that the tool hits .. much.. but it kind of gets in the way of the rest of my posture....You might ask why I'm doing small spindle work on a 3520 - legitimate question.. its because I only have one lathe and use it for a wide range of projects :)

I think a larger lathe is perfectly appropriate for even tiny things! I have five wood lathes of various sizes and use the 3520b for some pretty small work, the Jet1642 as second choice. The VS, speed, controls, bed length, and general rigidity of frame, banjo, and tailstock make the PM a dream for spindles compared to the smaller lathes.

I've never had problems accessing the left end of the work, but I do switch and turn left-handed if needed. For many thin spindles I turn a taper on the end and use the headstock MT as a jam chuck as long as it is something I can turn with tailstock support. I find this gives plenty of room compared to holding the blank in a chuck. (I rarely turn thin spindles between centers.)

JKJ