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Julian Ashcroft
07-25-2016, 6:14 PM
I received my fiber laser today. as usual with Chinese machines, documentation seems to be a bit scarce. It did come with a printed manual (pamphlet) but it's not much use as its in Chinese. There is a manual for the software on the CD, but nt an English version for the machine itself.

The software on the CD is EZCAD 2.5.3 which wont copy over to my windows 7 computer. I did download a copy and on running it it came up with a message saying 'unsupported operating system' which tells me I need either windows XP or Vista. The driver seemed to specify Windows 7 and installed okay. There was also no dongle, which is a worry and I have sent an email off to the supplier about this.

Any thoughts on this? Anyone managed to get EZCAD 2.5.3 running on a Windows 7 PC? Would hate to have to have another computer sitting next to this one if I can avoid it.

Keith Winter
07-25-2016, 6:24 PM
I don't think ezcad needs a dongle. The version of ez cad you can run is somewhat limited by the hardware in your laser.

Search "ezcad software 2.5" in google, third listing down for me is the manual if this link below doesn't work
http://en.bjjcz.com/downloadsfront.do?method=picker&flag=all&id=b2ec9f0f-d1ba-499d-94d7-9ee2667b34b6&fileId=7b1c68e2-db36-4619-b0dc-f54067bcfd36

Julian Ashcroft
07-25-2016, 6:27 PM
Thanks for the quick reply Keith. Software manual isn't a problem, that's on the disc. It's getting the software to run. I wonder if that's why they sometimes supply a laptop, so that it can run old outdated software. Looks like I might have to hunt down a Vista PC.

Kev Williams
07-25-2016, 6:45 PM
Mine came with a laptop, which was fitted with Win7 Ultimate, and it works fine, BUT it's a 32 bit version. If you're running a 64 bit 7, that's probably the problem.

Also, mine DID come with a dongle, but that may have been Triumph's doing, as Triumph's name is on the software in the 'about' tab.

Gary Hair
07-25-2016, 7:15 PM
The card that drives your fiber source contains (or is) the dongle, there isn't a separate dongle. You can run ezcad on any computer you install it on but you won't be able to save files on any computer but the one with the source (dongle).

Scott Challoner
07-26-2016, 12:30 AM
Like Gary said, basically the laser itself is the dongle. You need to have the laser running and connected to the computer for EZCad to work. I'm running it on a
Win 7 64 bit machine although they prefer 32 bit. I actually had it on my Win 10 laptop before I bought the used desktop and it seemed to work fine. I have EZcad 2.7 though.

Kev Williams
07-26-2016, 1:50 AM
What "card", a circuit card in the machine? Just curious- here's my free (ahem) laptop and the dongle...

341457

I hate the laptop. All the number keys and F keys are butted up next to each other. Don't know how many times I've fired the laser when I was just trying to fire the red box or type a regular "2"...

And I learned the hard way, even setting the laser at 0 power, the laser still fires. I'm now trying to get into the habit of turning off all the colors while I'm setting up.

I really wish the red box could be fired without the computer. Even moving the 'start' button to the F12 key would help a lot...

And by the way, some guy awhile back said he put his hand or arm in the beam and nothing happened, just felt a little warm. That's because his arm wasn't in focus. If it was, I think he'd still be screaming... ;)
(no, I didnt' try it, but I did find out that even though the thing won't engrave wood, it WILL set it on fire! Rags too...)

Rodne Gold
07-26-2016, 1:51 AM
right click on the exe file for ezcad .. get properties and then run it in compatibility mode

Julian Ashcroft
07-26-2016, 3:32 AM
One of my philosophies is that 'there is no such thing as a problem, just a solution waiting to be found'.

Thanks for all the suggestions above. I have been a Windows user since Windows 3.1 and I never knew there was a compatibility mode for running software. Selected 'XP Service Pack 3' and the software started and with the laser turned on (installed the drivers yesterday) the software loaded without it being in demo mode. I might try later versions of EZCAD to see if they work too.

Not run anything yet. I need to get some laser glasses, there seem to be loads on eBay from about £2.00 up. I'm looking for a descent pair, any suggestions?

The machine has three buttons on the front (as well as a master switch on the back next to the power cord). The top one appears to be the emergency off button, but when you press it in the laser starts up, twist and let it pop out the laser turns off, bit weird. Below this is a small red button and below that a larger green button. Got to work out what these are for yet.

Rodne Gold
07-26-2016, 4:00 AM
you really dont need laser glasses , I messed with mine without them.. in the long term and for safety , I would get.. you need glaases that absorb in the 1000 range..CO2 glases absorb in the 10 000 wavelength
One switch is for the mainboard and one for the source , as far as I can gather .. the small red button on mine is actually a light
test the focal point by lasering a square on stainless , the brighter the light , the more in focus..make a gauge
There might be parameters in later versions of EZcad that the fibre laser doesnt support .. I just used what came with mine (2.5.3)
you could also have dongle issues with later versions

Bill George
07-26-2016, 7:56 AM
So we have hackers all over the world, last one was in the news yesterday the DNC server emails. Why can't someone hack these laser systems to do away with the dongle?

Julian Ashcroft
07-26-2016, 8:23 AM
Gave it a quick test at lunchtime to see if it would work. Just set the lens 160mm above the bed, as it had 160mm written on the side of the lens. It marked a nice crisp square on a bit of galvanised steel. On a piece of stainless steel it left no mark, no doubt I will have to pay around with the settings.

Scott Challoner
07-26-2016, 10:08 AM
The easiest way to find the correct focal point is to click the box in EZCad that says Mark Continuous, then mark your piece while watching and listening. The proper focal point is when the flash is the brightest and the sound is the loudest. Make a note of the distance and/or make a gauge. Once you have that, you have to make sure your mark matches what you've drawn. If you've drawn a 25mm square, measure the mark. If it's not the same, go the the Field tab in Parameters and adjust the scale.

Gary Hair
07-26-2016, 11:26 AM
Gave it a quick test at lunchtime to see if it would work. Just set the lens 160mm above the bed, as it had 160mm written on the side of the lens. It marked a nice crisp square on a bit of galvanised steel. On a piece of stainless steel it left no mark, no doubt I will have to pay around with the settings.

I can almost guarantee you that 160mm is not the distance you need to be at, unless your manufacturer did a test and wrote that number on the lens. My guess is that is the working area. Do a test like Scott suggested and you'll find the best focus.

Julian Ashcroft
07-26-2016, 11:31 AM
I can almost guarantee you that 160mm is not the distance you need to be at, unless your manufacturer did a test and wrote that number on the lens. My guess is that is the working area. Do a test like Scott suggested and you'll find the best focus.


I will, I intend to spend a fair bit of time getting things right.

Kev Williams
07-26-2016, 12:19 PM
160mm is the approximate size of the working area, roughly 6". My lens is a 150mm, and my program, pre-loaded, shows my working area as 150.11mm, or 5.9"...

I just measured the in-focus distance from the table to the lens FRAME (not the lens surface, which recessed a bit), it's 9.9", or 251.5mm. Marked on the lens frame is F=210mm, which doesn't correspond to the working area OR the focus distance, I'm assuming is a light-transmission figure. How to know it's a 150mm lens is anyones guess? (It's an F-theta FWIW)

If you got a mark with the lens 160mm (a little more than 6-1/4") away from the part you marked, then you likely have a 100mm (or so) lens, which is roughly a 4" x 4" work area...

If I went from the 251mm focus distance I'm at to even the 210 it says on the lens, it wouldn't mark a thing...

As for glasses-- I got these from ebay, I can attest these work and the $69 price isn't bad. They're made in China but ship from the US so they'll arrive pretty quick. These are ABSORPTION style lenses, not REFLECTIVE style. From (what little) research I've done, the absorption style are the better choice. And the reason I can attest they work is I melted one lens firing the laser at it! The other side is unscathed...

341467

--next time I'll aim a little more toward the edge ;) --but I know without a shadow of a doubt they'll protect my eyes! And actually, when wearing them my right eye is to the left of the melt so I really don't notice it... anyway, ebay link:

ebaydotcom/itm/182080260611?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT"]http://www.ebay.com/itm/182080260611?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

That said, I bought 2 more pair of different glasses, I haven't tried melting them yet but they're supposed to be absorption style. Difference with them was cheaper- direct from China- but what I don't like is the lenses are BLUE - this is all fine, but these lenses totally block red-- which means the red LEDs on the machine are totally invisible! So you can't wear them if you're using the LED's.. Also, they're VERY dark compared to the green lenses. So the blue ones are now my 'customer' glasses :)

Gary Hair
07-26-2016, 12:44 PM
I think you'll find after a short while you will wear your glasses very infrequently. I have worn mine probably one time in the last month and that was to ensure a long running job was running correctly. Most of the time I just put up a shield (aka my hand) and block the possible beam path to my eyes. I wear corrective glasses and the fiber glasses don't fit well over them and I can't really see without the corrective glasses so I use my hand... I'm just glad I didn't spend hundreds on a shield size piece, it would have been a total waste of money. If you feel the need to watch, then please wear your glasses, otherwise you can likely do without.


160mm is the approximate size of the working area, roughly 6". My lens is a 150mm, and my program, pre-loaded, shows my working area as 150.11mm, or 5.9"...

I just measured the in-focus distance from the table to the lens FRAME (not the lens surface, which recessed a bit), it's 9.9", or 251.5mm. Marked on the lens frame is F=210mm, which doesn't correspond to the working area OR the focus distance, I'm assuming is a light-transmission figure. How to know it's a 150mm lens is anyones guess? (It's an F-theta FWIW)

If you got a mark with the lens 160mm (a little more than 6-1/4") away from the part you marked, then you likely have a 100mm (or so) lens, which is roughly a 4" x 4" work area...

If I went from the 251mm focus distance I'm at to even the 210 it says on the lens, it wouldn't mark a thing...

As for glasses-- I got these from ebay, I can attest these work and the $69 price isn't bad. They're made in China but ship from the US so they'll arrive pretty quick. These are ABSORPTION style lenses, not REFLECTIVE style. From (what little) research I've done, the absorption style are the better choice. And the reason I can attest they work is I melted one lens firing the laser at it! The other side is unscathed...

341467

--next time I'll aim a little more toward the edge ;) --but I know without a shadow of a doubt they'll protect my eyes! And actually, when wearing them my right eye is to the left of the melt so I really don't notice it... anyway, ebay link:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/182080260611?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
(http://www.ebay.com/itm/182080260611?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)
That said, I bought 2 more pair of different glasses, I haven't tried melting them yet but they're supposed to be absorption style. Difference with them was cheaper- direct from China- but what I don't like is the lenses are BLUE - this is all fine, but these lenses totally block red-- which means the red LEDs on the machine are totally invisible! So you can't wear them if you're using the LED's.. Also, they're VERY dark compared to the green lenses. So the blue ones are now my 'customer' glasses :)

Scott Anders
07-26-2016, 3:01 PM
Marked on the lens frame is F=210mm, which doesn't correspond to the working area OR the focus distance

Hi Kev, it's the diameter of the "working circle" 150mm is the "working square". If you draw a 210mm circle in corel then add a square inside and bring the corners to the circumference you'll find it's around 148.5mm

Kev Williams
07-26-2016, 3:14 PM
That makes sense, didn't think about that--

SO THEN- since the extreme corners of a 150mm square are accessible to the laser, is everything within a full 210mm circle accessible? That's 8.227 inches, and THAT would be great because I have about 600 7.9" diameter aluminum pulleys coming soon for lasering...

Makes sense that it should, but how do I convince the software that it's okay? http://www.engraver1.com/gifs/orelse.gif

Gary Hair
07-26-2016, 4:10 PM
That makes sense, didn't think about that--

SO THEN- since the extreme corners of a 150mm square are accessible to the laser, is everything within a full 210mm circle accessible? That's 8.227 inches, and THAT would be great because I have about 600 7.9" diameter aluminum pulleys coming soon for lasering...

Makes sense that it should, but how do I convince the software that it's okay? http://www.engraver1.com/gifs/orelse.gif

The software will do whatever you tell it to do... If it balks at anything outside the limits of the workspace, change the workspace.

Scott Anders
07-26-2016, 5:48 PM
While we're on the subject of ezcad and instead of starting a new thread, is it possible to align the red pointer (mark area) through the software? mine needs to move -2mm in the y axis.

Cancel that, I just found it in the others tab in parameters yay!

Julian Ashcroft
07-27-2016, 3:37 AM
Spent a bit of time focusing the laser last night, I think I'm just about there and the laser marks a very sharp box cutting with a good bit of noise and a bright light at 165mm from the bottom of the lens surround to the top of the work piece. The marked box looks pretty square, but might do some minor adjustments in parameters to get it spot on. Running a fingernail over the box (on galvanised steel) you can really feel the cut in the metal. Also managed to do a nice hatched box which was very dark.

Ordered some safety glasses, there are so many out there. Got a couple of pairs which are marked on the lenses that they are suitable for a 1060nm laser. They were heavily discounted on Amazon. Don't know if a link is allowed but here it is: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Protection-Safety-Laser-Glasses-Goggles/dp/B01EQK1ZHQ?ie=UTF8&ref_=pe_385721_142849471_TE_item

Kev Williams
07-27-2016, 12:50 PM
I did some more watch backs the other day, reproduced some very small text nicely!
But I'm noticing 'overburn' at the corners where the laser changes direction.
I've been reading up on the 'start/laser off/end/polygon TC(US) settings, and will
be trying out some new settings when I find some time...

However, no mention of the "spot diameter" button in the manual (that I've found yet),
next to the yellow arrow. The box that opened up shows a display of circles and settings,
and the difference in spacing of the circles when different settings are chosen...
341529

--my question, are these settings and the display simply for reference, or does changing the settings actually do anything? :)

Gary Hair
07-27-2016, 12:53 PM
I assumed that this was just for visualizing what is happening, you know what happens when you assume... Maybe someone who knows will give us the real answer?

matthew knott
07-27-2016, 6:42 PM
Careful with the 'you don't need glasses'advice guys , you wouldn't give the same kind of advise for condoms or seat belts and crash helmets. If it goes wrong (unlikely) Permanent eye damage is the result. I'm all for free choice and anyone wanting to roll the dice should go for it! A decent proper pair won't cost the earth, will have decent clear lenses that the red light works fine with. I sell lasers and glasses and use fibers daily , we buy from Noir in bulk , they even brand them for us. Good kit , could save your eyes, and much better to use daily as comfortable and clear (not dark green or red) lenses.

Dave Sheldrake
07-27-2016, 7:23 PM
Agree with Matt, ocular damage from the 1,064 wavelength is a very different mechanism to damage from the 10,640 wavelength, CO2 eye damage if not extreme can be fixed, Fibre....can't

matthew knott
07-27-2016, 7:28 PM
I assumed that this was just for visualizing what is happening, you know what happens when you assume... Maybe someone who knows will give us the real answer?

Yes , it just shows you a visual rep of what happens , low the frequency the lower the speed required to get overlapping pulses

Rodne Gold
07-27-2016, 8:08 PM
What are the practical differences in capabilty between my 20w and a 50w source ...I might be going for a 50w fiber.
Im looking for depth of engraving for masters for casting and some thin metal cutting

matthew knott
07-27-2016, 10:10 PM
We have 2 X 50 watts , love them , jobs that take 2 minutes can be cut to 40 seconds and with better results, expect a big premium as they cost more than double a 20 watt ! You can still do everything with a 20 but it's faster with a 50

Julian Ashcroft
07-28-2016, 6:08 AM
Came across this settings guide which might prove useful: http://www.permanentmarking.com/wp-content/uploads/TYKMA-Laser-Marking-Manual-REV214.pdf

I would like to engrave leather with the fiber laser, I currently do quite a bit of leather with one of my CO2 lasers, but if I can get it to work on the fiber laser, it should be a lot a faster. There are several youtube videos of leather being engraved with a fiber laser, so hopefully it will work for me too.

Rodne Gold
07-28-2016, 6:44 AM
i just tried leather .. it marks , but not well , it cuts too , but not well ..

Julian Ashcroft
07-28-2016, 11:24 AM
As this EZCAD programme doesn't install to the computer any changesmake to the parameters, such as adjustments to the 'red light pointer' don't seem to be automatically saved. Is there a way of saving these settings or a config file that can be manually changed?

Kev Williams
07-28-2016, 2:42 PM
i just tried leather .. it marks , but not well , it cuts too , but not well ..

Kinda like wood- I found out I can make it smoke, and catch it on fire if I'm persistant, but can't make a "human readable" mark of any kind
(just found that on a blueprint today, "human readable information"... Like we're too stupid to read barcodes??)
;)

And Julian, I'm pretty sure those settings are saved right in the machine--? Because yeah, the program will run direct from the CD or anywhere you copy the exe file to, and run the machine as long as a USB cord is connected to it (and in my case the dongle is plugged into another USB port)---since it's a direct-run program there's no configuration folders or files created.

But everything I've saved, including the red box setting (which was originally WAY off)...

Rodne Gold
07-28-2016, 4:01 PM
EZcad seems to store parameters with the drawing files..so set up default drawings like "stainless frosted" and so on ..all the parameters should be there when you open the drawing .. use the clipboard to insert elements
My guy at the back of my factory is fiddling like mad and trying anything

Julian Ashcroft
07-28-2016, 4:19 PM
Tried that, doesn't seem to work. I found the parameter file and have altered a few settings in that for the red light pointer and that works fine.

Gary Hair
07-28-2016, 4:57 PM
The engraving parameters may be stored in the drawing file but I have seen some cases where it didn't, however, they are stored in a file in the "Param" folder. The program parameters are also stored on the computer you run the program on, they are in the "res" folder.


EZcad seems to store parameters with the drawing files..so set up default drawings like "stainless frosted" and so on ..all the parameters should be there when you open the drawing .. use the clipboard to insert elements
My guy at the back of my factory is fiddling like mad and trying anything

Kev Williams
07-29-2016, 11:05 AM
Good to know the program does create it's own 'save' folders.

On mine, I've noticed the parameters that I used with the saved job 'come back' when recalling the job... but another thing I've noticed about the engraving parameters is, don't always believe what you see- I've found that sometimes, the 'actual' parameters don't appear unless you group some or all objects of that color.

Another anomaly I've found, but doesn't happen all the time, is on recalled jobs, sometimes the hatch fill CAN'T be deleted, which is frustrating when you want to try a different one!

Rodne Gold
07-29-2016, 12:08 PM
Try this:
When the undo hatch is not available ... go to the hatch parameters on the left hand side and untick hatch 1 enable.. then click apply ..normally that works
if it doesnt , then disable hatch 1 , enable hatch 2 with what you want and press apply

Kev Williams
07-29-2016, 1:39 PM
I've tried all that- when it happens, it's as if the fill routine is part of the original outline, almost like it was exported as a DXF. The only way to remove the fill is to group and delete. It's been faster to just re-import the original.

Best trick I've found is to save the job with no hatch fill. Remembering to do that is the problem at my age! ;)