Sharpening poll

[Pat Barry]

Why not have another sharpening thread?

This one a poll. Not a question about stones or sharpening media, purely about method, not including hollow grinding, just the hand process, although it does include the use of jigs. It seems there are three ways to grind / hone an edge. Bear with me please -
1) front to back / back to front - ex: this is the method needed to use the typical roller jig for example although I'm not asking if you use a jig -- the grinding and honing is done in the direction the tool such as plane blade normally is used in practice (not accounting for skewing the plane for example), just the basic forward and back stroke used by the tool (including for example paring in a forward direction)not related to stones or media;
2) side to side - just the perpendicular direction to the front to back of number 1 above - this is a recent example espoused by Frank Klaus video;
3) circular and or figure eight method - self explanatory, I think, given 1 and 2 above;
4) none of the above, including for example not applicable because you never grind or hone to get a sharp edge, or some other method not properly described by one of the three options above (in which please do elaborate).
Feel free to add other comments as needed :)

Note - if you use multiple, please respond with your preferred, go to method, not the special case condition

[Steve Voigt]

Wait, you mean you have to sharpen these tools? They don't stay sharp forever? Now you tell me...

[Tom M King]

"all of the above", or "it depends" were left off, so I can't vote.

[Pat Barry]

"all of the above", or "it depends" were left off, so I can't vote.
I recognize some folks don't like to be put in a box or labeled "so and so", but for the greater good, please select your favorite method. Yeah, I know, it's like you don't want to publicly state which is your favorite kid, but we all know, there is one ;)

[Tom M King]

I voted for what I do the majority of the time, which is primarily straight forward, and backward with the emphasis on forward. I depend on what it feels like going forward.

[Patrick Chase]

I assume this is specifically for bevel grinding/honing as opposed to back? I answered as such...

[Robert Engel]

I use a very narrow figure 8 motion and hold the blade skewed at about 30 degrees.

For me, this keeps a consistent angle.

[Jim Koepke]

I use all the methods. Most often for a straight edged tool it will be back and forth on the bevel. Often though it is helpful to use the side to side method. The circular or figure eight tends to be used with gouges.

So most of my vote goes toward front to back - back to front.

jtk

[Patrick Chase]

If I do an endless straight motion on a stone shaped like a Mobius strip, does that also count as "circular"?

[Pat Barry]

If I do an endless straight motion on a stone shaped like a Mobius strip, does that also count as "circular"?
Yes, for sure, this also includes serpentine motion. Lol

[Pat Barry]

FYI - Not sure everyone knows this
The poll option used here allows you to see who voted for which option. Just click on the count number to the right, next to the percentage.

[John Schtrumpf]

On a flat bevel, I usually skew the blade as I move it back and forth. That puts me somewheres between number 1 and number 2.

[Frederick Skelly]

FYI - Not sure everyone knows this
The poll option used here allows you to see who voted for which option. Just click on the count number to the right, next to the percentage.

Thanks Pat. I never knew how to see that.
Fred

[Luke Dupont]

I vote "none of the above" because I use a mixture of methods, sometimes with the same tool on the same stone, and I wouldn't be without any of them.

For my tools that I sharpen with a convex bevel, I use a very slight rocking motion front to back, ending on or just under the angle that I'm aiming for.

But I also sharpen some of my tools with a full flat bevel. For this, I skew them 45 degrees or so on the stone to eliminate any racking.

I also sometimes go in small circles, as this helps when using oil sometimes, and I primarily use oil stones. I use this a ton on gouges and hatchets, and also on cambered irons.

My methods change depending on the stones that I'm using and the blades that I'm sharpening, and I would never pick or advocate "just one." It really depends on what you're trying to accomplish, what bevel geometry you're after, what sort of stone and lubricant you're using, how much lubricant is present on the stone, whether you're working the bevel or the flat, etc. etc. etc. Heck, sometimes I'll even take the stone to the tool as opposed to the other way around, depending on what I'm sharpening and the size of the stone and which is easier to hold and control.

It's like working wood. Sometimes you plane straight on. Sometimes you might need to skew your plane. Sometimes you might need to back off on the depth of cut, or use another tool altogether such as a scraper. A flexible approach is always going to be more successful than a one-size-fits-all mentality, and the same goes for sharpening IMO.

[Bob Glenn]

Wait, you mean you have to sharpen these tools? They don't stay sharp forever? Now you tell me...

I just order new ones when they get dull.

[steven c newman]

Bevels, I usually push and pull
Backs, I go side to side.

Figure 8, I use on the cambered plane irons' bevel.
Strop, I will just pull back towards me.

Just a nix as needed, depends on the item being worked on..

[Pat Barry]

Thanks to all for participating - 69 voters and 80% using the front to back method as compared to just 13% using the side to side method. I must admit that I also use both methods but have become more of a fan of the side to side method for plane blades. It just seems that pushing the leading edge of the blade into the stone, more or less in the manner it is used, is not optimal. Of course I have no data to support this, just intuition and the feeling I get, kind of a fingernail on the chalkboard type of thing, that I don't like. The side to side method doesn't have this same feeling. I also tend to think the scratch pattern on the blade edge is better with the side to side method. I think there would tend to be more deep grooves right on the edge with the front to back method. I do all my grinding and honing freehanded which might explain a lot.

[Luke Dupont]

Thanks to all for participating - 69 voters and 80% using the front to back method as compared to just 13% using the side to side method. I must admit that I also use both methods but have become more of a fan of the side to side method for plane blades. It just seems that pushing the leading edge of the blade into the stone, more or less in the manner it is used, is not optimal. Of course I have no data to support this, just intuition and the feeling I get, kind of a fingernail on the chalkboard type of thing, that I don't like. The side to side method doesn't have this same feeling. I also tend to think the scratch pattern on the blade edge is better with the side to side method. I think there would tend to be more deep grooves right on the edge with the front to back method. I do all my grinding and honing freehanded which might explain a lot.

That might depend on what kind of sharpening media you're using. I like to be able to feel the edge biting a bit so that I know when I get down to it. However, if you go straight forward and back, the edge can bite in and cause the blade to tilt forward, so for flat bevels, I go at a 45 degree angle. This allows me to feel the edge, but is a more subtle angle with less catch and racking. I think a *lot* of people who sharpen free hand use this method, and it wasn't in the options.

Another thing to consider, as I said before, is geometry. Western plane irons are so thin that I don't bother maintaining a flat bevel on them, and I sharpen them with a convex bevel. For that, front-to-back is perfect.

I've always found it odd that people work the back along the length of the stone (sideways), because stones tend to wear out hollow in that direction, which could curve the back of your chisel or plane iron. I do it myself sometimes, but I'm trying to switch to the habit of laying it off the end of the stone, where I know the axis will be straight, unless I'm using a stone where I have complete confidence that it's dead flat along the entire length.

Techniques I use also depend on my confidence in the flatness of the stone. Skewing your blade can cause problems if things aren't dead flat in a given axis.

I think if you were to look at who voted what, and what kind of stones they use, and tools they sharpen, and whether or not they sharpen free-hand, you might find a lot of interesting connections. Data always needs to be put into context to draw any accurate impressions from it.

[Patrick Chase]

That might depend on what kind of sharpening media you're using. I like to be able to feel the edge biting a bit so that I know when I get down to it. However, if you go straight forward and back, the edge can bite in and cause the blade to tilt forward, so for flat bevels, I go at a 45 degree angle. This allows me to feel the edge, but is a more subtle angle with less catch and racking. I think a *lot* of people who sharpen free hand use this method, and it wasn't in the options.

I do that on the rare occasions when I freehand. IMO it's the best of both worlds - You get the "sharpening feel" benefit of front-to-back, but also the positive registration and "resistance to rocking" of side-to-side.

[Luke Dupont]

I do that on the rare occasions when I freehand. IMO it's the best of both worlds - You get the "sharpening feel" benefit of front-to-back, but also the positive registration and "resistance to rocking" of side-to-side.

Yep. I also think it's very much the best of both worlds; tend to I sharpen all of my flat-bevel tools that way.