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Aaron Craven
07-24-2016, 12:29 AM
Just thought I'd share. Critique welcome, but go easy on me (more pieces in additional posts below).

Red oak. Turned green and allowed to warp. Finished with TY food-safe finishing oil:
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Hickory. Finished with walnut oil and hand-buffed (with an old tee-shirt) to the shine you see here.
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Aaron Craven
07-24-2016, 12:36 AM
Hmmm... can't figure out how to get the extra thumbs off the original post... anyway:

Red oak. Turned green and allowed to warp. Finished with walnut oil. As slow as walnut oil takes to dry, I'll probably never use it again on red oak. It's still weeping out of the pores:
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Maple with cedar rim. WOP finish:
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Hickory. TY food-safe oil finish:
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Thomas Canfield
07-24-2016, 10:31 AM
Look good to me. There is a little bit of pith in last photo that enhanced the warp and will often cause a split for me. I have had some success taking oil soaked pieces outside to higher temperature, even sunlight, to speed up the drying time of oil and stop weeping. I have a box with lamp inside that I use in winter or cooler times to raise the temperature and lower the humidity and increase drying.

Aaron Craven
07-26-2016, 4:29 PM
Look good to me. There is a little bit of pith in last photo that enhanced the warp and will often cause a split for me. I have had some success taking oil soaked pieces outside to higher temperature, even sunlight, to speed up the drying time of oil and stop weeping. I have a box with lamp inside that I use in winter or cooler times to raise the temperature and lower the humidity and increase drying.

Thanks! I actually dried it in my attic for a few weeks before getting frustrated and using a vacuum cleaner to pull some of the oil out... that worked out okay and it's almost dry now. I don't think I'll be using walnut oil on red oak (or any very porous wood) again, though!

Dennis Ford
07-26-2016, 6:15 PM
They look good.