Suggestions for attaching drawer fronts?

[Ellen Benkin]

I've built a chest of drawers with 6 drawers. The boxes were made by a lumber company and they ride on Blum undermount glides with Blumotion. The front of each the boxes is 1/2" maple and the drawer fronts are 5/8" cherry.

I have made the drawer fronts to fit with 1/16 clear on all sides. I have thought of many ways to attach the fronts but I would like some input from someone who has actually done it. Should I use only the drawer pulls, should I also use screws, does anyone glue them on?

Thanks for any ideas.

[Tom M King]

http://woodworker.com/8-x-1-drwr-front-adj-screws-combo-zp-mssu-145-931.asp

[Andrew Hughes]

On inset drawer fronts I use double sided tape.To get them centered nicely.Then screws like the one s Tom's like shows.

[George Bokros]

I use the same screws Tom posted the link. I do not want to just rely on the screws for the pulls. If they come loose the drawer front is out of alignment.

[Martin Wasner]

I would just use a 1" wood screw.

I wouldn't bother with double sided tape unless you have to. Use the pull to hold it in place so you can open the drawer and get the screws in to actually hold the front on.

Set your front high. Blum undermounts will settle a bit as weight is added. Also go with the locking devices with three way adjustment.

[Jim Becker]

Ellen, what I typically do for inset drawer fronts is put the drawer in (stopped so contact makes the to-be-applied drawer front flush with the casework, place the drawer front in the opening with some shims (1/16" in your case) on the bottom and sides for proper placement, create a way to clamp things in place so you can drill from behind for screws through both the drawer box and into the back of the drawer front. (I use #7 trim-head screws for this) Obviously, you should be using a stopped drill bit with countersink so you don't drill too far. For situations where you cannot access from the top of the case, start out the same way, using thin double-sided carpet tape on the back of the drawer to hold it in place aligned while you carefully open the drawer and then immediately clamp it to the drawer box for drilling. (the tape is not strong enough to hold it without clamps for this) Then remove the tape and screw in place. I typically use four screws toward the corners with either the upper two or lower two holes in the drawer box only enlarged to allow for slight wood movement. (assumes grain runs horizontally)

[Ellen Benkin]

Thanks everyone. I do have drawer mounting screws that I got from Rockler. Thanks for the info about the Blum undermounts settling. That is important to know after I worked hard to center the fronts with 1/16 spacing.

[Sam Murdoch]

I like using these. http://www.rockler.com/drawer-front-adjuster They allow for easy adjustments (especially needed with inset drawer heads) and tighten up well. The drawer pulls can finish off holding the drawer front from ever moving again. On larger drawer fronts I add corner screws after I tighten the cam screws.

[Matt Day]

place the drawer front in the opening with some shims (1/16" in your case) on the bottom and sides for proper placement, ...using thin double-sided carpet tape

+1.

I just installed 10 this same way and it worked well. A tip - don't skimp on the tape. Put plenty on so it doesn't sag under the weight of the drawer front. I had a couple that moved on me after I pulled the drawer out to install screws. I only used two 3" or so pieces, my bad.

[Martin Wasner]

I use a tapered shim, not a spacer.

[Walter Plummer]

Just another way. Drill the drawer box for pilot holes for the screws. Run the screws in so the point just protrudes through the drawer. Push the drawer all the way in and shim your drawer front to your liking. With your fist rap the drawer front into the drawer box. The screw points will mark where to drill pilot holes in the back of your drawer front. Remove the screws and enlarge the holes in the drawer box to clearance holes for your screw size. Install your screws and your done.

[Rich Engelhardt]

I use pulls and two pocket hole screws.

Pretty much the same screws shown above - but - I usually have a ton of pocket hole screws on hand.

[George Bokros]

I like using these. http://www.rockler.com/drawer-front-adjuster They allow for easy adjustments (especially needed with inset drawer heads) and tighten up well. The drawer pulls can finish off holding the drawer front from ever moving again. On larger drawer fronts I add corner screws after I tighten the cam screws.

Sam how do those work. I see how to install them but how do you adjust them with the drawer front against the drawer box. If you have to take the drawer front away from the drawer box it seems that it would all be guess work on the adjustment.

Thanks

[Jim Dwight]

I like Walters way but double sided tape will work. An advantage of the screws from inside (I think two are sufficient) are that you can open the clearance hole in the drawer front and use a washer if you get things a little off. The bigger hole lets you align the drawer. I drill the hole or holes for the knob after getting the drawer front on where I want it so it locks things in position.

[Sam Murdoch]

Sam how do those work. I see how to install them but how do you adjust them with the drawer front against the drawer box. If you have to take the drawer front away from the drawer box it seems that it would all be guess work on the adjustment.

Thanks

In the center of the nylon housing is a threaded receiver for the bolt. That threaded piece is set up to allow an 1/8" movement in all directions as it can move (with pressure) within the nylon case. Once you tighten up on the screw the draw front no longer moves without great effort or a jarring bump.

Keeping the screw just a bit tight so that the drawer front is securely held to the drawer box, you can easily shim the front to your tolerances and confidently reopen the drawer to tighten the screws. Easier and better if you have access from the top, to leave your shims in place then just reach in and tighten the screws but the cams do work well enough to be able to open the drawer to tighten.

[glenn bradley]

I use two of the screws Tom has shown. These have 7/16" washer heads. A 1/4" to 5/16" hole will give you lots of wiggle room for fine tuning the clearance. I have 3/4" hardwood fronts that are held with these that have seen years of service without issue. If the pulls allow penetration between box and front, all the better for fixing the position once you're happy with it.

[Andy Giddings]

I use a combo of Walter's method + double sided tape. With the Blum undermount, as long as you have the adjustable mounts, you should have more than enough available for alignment without using special screws/oversize holes

[John C Bush]

I used a hot glue gun to position the drawer fronts--didn't have double sided tape on hand--then secured with screws.

[Ellen Benkin]

A quick update. Double sided tape didn't work to hold the fronts to the boxes and then I remembered my 23 gauge pinner. I could get to the inside of the drawer when it was closed well enough to put a pin in each corner to hold the front to the box. They held just enough for me to open the drawer and quickly clamp them. Then I could use the screws to ''permanently'' attach the front to the drawer.

[Lee Schierer]

Just another way. Drill the drawer box for pilot holes for the screws. Run the screws in so the point just protrudes through the drawer. Push the drawer all the way in and shim your drawer front to your liking. With your fist rap the drawer front into the drawer box. The screw points will mark where to drill pilot holes in the back of your drawer front. Remove the screws and enlarge the holes in the drawer box to clearance holes for your screw size. Install your screws and your done.

This is what I do except I put several pounds of weight in the drawer to take the settling into account.

[Rick Potter]

Pretty much like above posts, except I use pennies to space the drawer fronts.

[Justin Ludwig]

I set all my drawer faces upside down in a jig that spaces the offset according to application (inset or overlay). The drawer is removed from cabinet and placed on the drawer face. Screw it down with appropriate amount of screws and throw it back in the cabinet.

I have multiple jigs for the different styles of cabinets I build, but intend to build an adjustable jig with T-tracks. I can have an peon set 100 drawer faces in a few hours with these jigs.

If I go to the shop today I'll take some pics of one of them.

[Ellen Benkin]

Please post a picture of the jig. It sounds intriguing.

[Marshall Mosby]

Dovetail joints would be helpful here. Using those you won't need screws/nails and they'll look good as well. Try making those in my opinion.

[Justin Ludwig]

343862 343867 343868 343869 343870 343871 343872

[Ellen Benkin]

Thanks Justin. I'm going to print these and save them for my next set of drawers.