Stanley #45 front knob

[Tomi Rosso]

Hello,

I just got two Stanley #45 combination planes and both are missing front knob. Could anyone tell me what size that knob is? Dimensions? Height, widht etc? I am going to make new knobs at those.

Firts is type 7 and second is type 8. Both have knob above the skate, not main body.

And second, what difference is type 7A and 7B? I saw those at several webpages. None still explained what those means. And what was the years, when those are manufactured? And when type 8 was manufactured. Again, I found when types 7-8 are made, but not when 7 changes to 8.

BR, TR

[Jim Koepke]

Hi Tomi,

I will have to measure the knob later for the dimensions. The difficult part will be cutting threads in the wood. From what I have read is it changes slightly from time to time.

Type 7A began in about 1896. It doesn't have 45 in an oval cast on the fence. The fence is more like a type 6 except for the knob being on the fence instead of the main body. There is not a model number or trade mark on the movable skate. According to the John Walter type study this version still has the rods threaded into the body of the main skate.

The 7B was from 1896 to 1906.

The type 8 would be from 1907 to 1908.

There may be some confusion among sellers due to the 'S' casting mark from 1896 to 1901. Then the 'B' casting mark starting in 1902.

jtk

[Jim Koepke]

Went out to the shop and here is what was found.

341194

The knob is a ball of about 1-1/2" round. It is about 1-5/8" tall when the base is included. The base measured 13/16" in diameter.

jtk

[Tomi Rosso]

Thanks a lot Jim.

I have another problem with that thread too. I am a metric man. All my threading tools are metric, so it's not biggest problem that thread is slighty different between years. I would measure those threads and then will see, are those identical. Plan B is use some sort of thread insert inside the knob. Well time to tell how it goes. Or plan C is that I make spesial threading rod at that spesific thread.

At type 8 was minor problem with one depth stop locking screw thread also. Must probably weld that hole shut and make new thread.

Type 7 was that 45 in oval type. Thanks at those years too. Looks that this 7 is more common than 8. But in here, all those 45's are rare.

[Robert Engel]

You can find replacement knobs from a couple guys on Ebay.
One model screws on the other has a screw in it, I believe.

Mine is missing too, but I don't miss it. In fact, I don't think you need it.

When I'm using the plane, I hold on the to loop on the side.
I'd be wondering if all the time and effort is really worth it.

[Tomi Rosso]

I think too that making new knob is waisting the time and effort, if looking that could plane be used without it. But if I like to restore and fix the plane, that is quite nice little task to do. I like to make new knobs for my own pleasure. And because everyone else are missing that same knob too. :)

I check that casting marking too what Jim mentioned. It's "S" model. So looking good.

[Jim Koepke]

At type 8 was minor problem with one depth stop locking screw thread also. Must probably weld that hole shut and make new thread.

Type 7 was that 45 in oval type. Thanks at those years too. Looks that this 7 is more common than 8. But in here, all those 45's are rare.

The thread for the locking screw is 1/4-28 as are all the screws on a Stanley #45.

The type 7 is likely one of the most common types to be found.


One model screws on the other has a screw in it, I believe.

I believe the knob was screwed on to the casting until about 1910 or 1911. Then a shaft and nut was used like on the knobs and totes on other plane models.

Another approach that I have used is to make a handle that fits over the rods:

341246

The plane shown is actually a Wards Master (made by Stanley).

For most work it seem the placement of the knob was not the best.

jtk